9LIST STORI3S | CHANEL IMAN
63MIX ROUTIN3S | ALLYSON FANGER
ROCK THIS FOR MUCH NEEDED SUMMER FRIDAYS
Read the MAY ISSUE #101 of Athleisure Mag and see Rock This For Much Needed Summer Fridays in mag.
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INDULGE YOURSELF AND ME TIME | JOSIE NATORI
When we began working in the fashion industry, there are a number of memories that we will never forget that allowed us to see the work of those who have brands that focus on the importance of heritage and artistry. One of our NYFW experiences involved a stunning runway show that showcased dramatic crisp white shirts with architectural collars and accessorized with belts and earrings. We also attended an intimate fragrance launch at her home where she not only played piano for us, but allowed us to see how her brand is truly one that runs seamlessly in your life beyond just what one wears on one's body. Josie Natori is the epitome of refined style, luxury, and the ultimate in self-care.
We sat down with the Founder and Chief Executive of The Natori Co. in her offices in NYC to talk about being a child prodigy in piano, how she climbed the corporate ladder at Merrill Lynch, and how her passion for creativity led to her launching her namesake company which includes a number of coveted labels, and the importance of having brand authenticity and integrity.
ATHLEISURE MAG: It is such a pleasure to see you again! We met many years ago!
JOSIE NATORI: Yes, you were at one of my fragrance launches, I don’t remember which one it was.
AM: Yes it was awhile ago and it was such a beautiful event as I was able to hear you play the piano, and you hosted it at your home. I have been such a fan of the brand for so long so it’s amazing to be here now to talk to you!
When did you realize that you loved fashion and wanted to design?
JN: No, I never said that I wanted to design. I loved fashion, when you grow up in the Philippines, you love clothes. So it was never a dream or an aim or a goal. It was a total accident as it was not something that I would have thought about.
I started out in Wall Street for 9 years and it was a great business to be in. But then I also had this artistic background as a pianist as I had been playing since I was 4 and that creative and artistic aspect as well. I never dreamt of nor wanted to and I don’t like to be called a clothing designer. I’m an artist and a businesswoman. I like beautiful things and I have figured out how to do them.
AM: What do you love about playing the piano?
JN: It’s kind of second nature. You’re born, you dance, you play, you sing, you dance, you act, and my mother, she was also a pianist. So everyone had to play an instrument, you didn’t question it – you just did it. I started playing when I was 4, I performed concerts and at the age of 9, I played solo with the Manila Philharmonic Orchestra. Thank God that I did it and I love to play the piano because it’s a great way for me to express myself through the piano.
AM: That really nice.
You came to the US and attended Manhattanville College with your focus in Economics and you’re such a trailblazer, as you climbed the corporate ladder at Merrill Lynch in the 70s.
JN: Yes, I was the first female VP of Investment Banking at Merrill Lynch.
AM: Well what did it mean to you to have that position especially as a woman?
JN: You know what, when I was on Wall Street, that never really occurred to me. Growing up in Manila, I came from a place with strong matriarchal society where the women were very strong. My mother was an entrepreneur, my grandmother was also a businesswoman. I never questioned that. So when other people would look at what I did and say how unique it was, for me I never had that as an issue, I never confronted it, I didn’t worry about it, I just did it. I know that those looking at me felt that as a woman and a minority, I checked 2 boxes, but I never saw it that way. I think that I was just at the right place at the right time and I think that with my background and my upbringing, I had no fear.
AM: What took place for you to transition from being in finance and doing well, to move on to fashion?
JN: Yes, I got bored after being there for 9 years and I came to the decision that I had no desire to be the President of Merrill Lynch. It’s not that I was given that opportunity, but I knew that that wasn’t something that I wanted. I felt that I had climbed the mountain, and I woke up in the morning and I felt that I didn’t have -
AM: That fire.
JN: Yes. So I always knew that I would have my own business because my grandmother is entrepreneurial, my father started his business and he was a self-made man. It was only a question of what business. Then Ken and I got married and I was thinking of what business we could do. We explored a brokerage firm, but we didn’t have the resources and it wasn’t the right time in the Stock Market. So I started exploring and thinking about other businesses like opening up a McDonald’s and other ideas. But it was just by accident that the business of import/export in the Philippines came up. Not in a million years was I thinking about design, it was about the trade of product. It evolved and I was really fortunate and the left brain and the right brain aligned. That’s what was missing. Wall Street had made me work in one way and there is a lot of creativity in that field that people find exciting, but for me, it was boring. In terms of finance I did enjoy making the deals. But in fashion you’re making deals and also working with product. It was exciting and I have always enjoyed fashion, I’m a shopaholic.
AM: What was your vision initially when you first launched the label?
JN: There was no vision, it was just buying and selling. It was just me seeing items and purchasing it and you just keep going. It was only later on when I brought in an embroidered blouse to a buyer and she felt that it would be great as a sleep shirt and so that was lingerie. At the time, lingerie was either lewd or frumpy. So I was lucky that I was able to get into that area and I was also very persistent and I learned on the job!
AM: It’s the best way to go about it sometimes.
JN: No one taught me.
AM: Looking at your brand today, you have a number of labels. What is your process in deciding what pieces will go with what portion of the label and the corresponding design?
JN: I think that over the years we have been fortunate to be able to have some tiers because you have Josie Natori which is the most luxurious, distinctive, and most expensive label and that’s not for everybody and it’s available at Saks in terms of its distribution. Natori is more everyday and it’s at Dillard's and N Natori at Von Maur. It’s for that day-to-day life. We also have Josie which is a bit dormant right now, but it is for that younger customer. We’re just really fortunate to be able to have that a brand that has different tiers and also includes various categories. I think that we have something to offer for everyone. Whether you’re buying a caftan for $6,000, $900, or $198 you see the difference in materials, but the integrity of the brand is there.
AM: I have had the pleasure to wear some of your caftan dresses from Josie Natori and they are the most stunning and beautiful pieces to wear.
JN: Thank you!
AM: One of the things that I like so much about your lines is that you do have a number of licensees and categories that are within the brand. What is your process in terms of how you decide on including accessories, home goods, candles, fragrances, etc?
JN: Well, I think that it was after 5 years. You know, you’re not really a brand until the customer tells you so. When the customer tells you, that’s when you can look at things differently and Natori really is a state of mind. There is a whole philosophy about it. I thought that the brand is about feeling good and there is a sociological element about the brand and there is also a design element. The brand is about having feel good products and being true to yourself as well as feminine. Then there is the actual aesthetic of the design which is the East-West and the modern aspects of it and you can see it in a number of the pieces that we have. It is about bringing art into life.
But when it comes to products, I’m not going to do pots and pans, that doesn’t relate to the brand. We’re focused on the inside and out as well as head-to-toe. Because you can create that East- West in so many places in the home and under the covers. A feel good brand means you’re going to think about fragrances, fabrics, and what makes you feel good. As a brand, I think that we have a point of view and that’s what makes us distinctive and there is also that psychographic where when you buy Natori, it’s a gift to yourself. It’s about feeling feminine, loving yourself, why not? It’s indulgence.
AM: One of my favorite bras is actually from your line as it’s a T-Shirt style super light and comfortable while feeling luxurious. It’s always easy to wear and I agree with you on how the brand inherently has that feel good nature about it.
In looking at the collections that you have, it allows that woman to go out to for a night on the town, to work, to being casual and to really navigate her life. What would be 3 pieces that are essential across your whole brand or for each individual label?
JN: That’s really hard and you know, my philosophy is that we make clothes that make you feel good, feminine, comfortable, elegant, and stylish. But where you wear it, that’s your decision! I’m not telling you what to do! Some people like to take our slip dress and wear it to sleep in, but someone else is wearing it to go out in. So for me, it’s a range of possibilities and a point of view. It’s a sensibility of how you dress you know? It’s a statement, it’s feminine, and to me, it’s about wearing it wherever you want!
In terms of pieces, you want to have that great foundation, so you want to make sure that your underwear is comfortable. Then you have those options of wearing a caftan, or a lovely kimono or a dress. Of course, there’s accessories and it’s hard to point out just one as there are so many options! To me, the items that are closest to your skin are the most important as opposed to what’s outside.
AM: I couldn’t agree more!
There was a runway show that you did years ago and I know my mom and I attended this show. Most of the looks were dynamic white crisp shirts paired with your accessories. I just remember seeing beautiful collars, elements of Geometria, and belts – it was just stunning.
JN: Oh great!
AM: It was like a Dynasty moment which I am a huge fan of as I love the glamour and drama that came through with the way that the characters were styled on that show.
JN: I am very proud of the artistry that we have created for this brand and the handwork comes from the Philippines. We have been able to bring that craftsmanship to our collections and it’s about bringing the best of the past and to apply it to modern luxury whether it's on your body or your bed. I just think that we deserve it. We work so hard on this Earth!
AM: Where do you see the brand going whether it’s collaborations or big product launches that we should keep an eye out for?
JN: We are fortunate that we have built a following and a customer base and we have never taken that for granted! We need to continue to be relevant to the next generation. We want to continue only do the categories that relate to the brand and we always have to think about who our customer is. Each generation is different and I am always thinking about who we can speak to what they are looking for and what makes sense for who we are. We can’t be stuck. My son is the President of Natori and we’re always looking forward and keeping things fresh.
AM: What does it mean to you to have Natori as a member of the CFDA?
JN: Obviously, it’s a wonderful organization that really showcases and supports its members and it’s great to have a voice and I appreciate that. I don’t really consider myself a designer, but I think it is important to be involved whether it’s hosting a function/event, to mentor as well as to advise and to have that representation.
AM: Absolutely.
What are you the most proud of in terms of what you have done with this Empire?
JN: Well, it’s not an empire number 1.
AM: I think it is a big deal to be around as long as you have with your distribution channels, licenses and being a multi-million dollar brand. To start as a sleepwear/lingerie brand and to have an array of celebs like Lady Gaga, Kate Beckinsale, and Rose Huntingon-Whiteley wearing your labels.
JN: I have to say that we are very proud. There aren’t too many brands, I don’t think that have lasted this long and are independent. So I feel that that is something that my family is very proud of. My son Ken taking over as President, but I’m not retiring anytime soon! I’m getting close to 77, but I don’t feel old you know? It’s really a mindset to me and I think young! When I’m traveling with our team, sometimes they say, “can we rest?” and I say, “what do you mean rest? It’s time to go!” They are more than half my age. So it’s fun and I think that we are just proud that we are able to build this brand and we are proud of the connections to the Philippines because I think that without my Asian heritage, and I am very proud about that, it is what distinguishes me and it is my point of differentiation to bring that heritage and background and to bring the essence of that in an art form into our prints and patterns is great to add and to infuse in our modern way of living. It’s been an exciting journey you know? We’re known for our prints and I think that being able to have that distinctive point of view we are proud of what we have offered and continue to do. We are proud of being a privately held and family owned company. But, there is no sitting on your laurels. It’s a very tough environment and we’re just navigating that is the business climate is different and has its challenges. But it’s exciting when you’re doing this and to see what you have built and will continue to do as you evolve and to present yourself the way that you want to present yourself. There is freedom in being able to do that. I’m proud of that and I think the real test is that I want the brand to live beyond me. It has to keep on going and we can’t bastardize the brand. I’d rather keep the brand like this and to have integrity which is important to me.
AM: You have been such a trailblazer and it has been such an honor to have you talk with us about the brand so that we can share with our fans and readers of Athleisure Mag!
JN: I’ve looked at your magazine and Athleisure doesn’t mean that you’re just wearing the sweats, track suits, or activewear. I think the term and how you present it is redefining it. Natori is a way of dressing. It’s a way of dressing that’s feminine, glamorous, statement, full of color, happy, and it feels good. It’s a mindset of how you want to be whether I’m relaxing and reading the paper on the couch. Athleisure is my time! It’s me time! That’s why Natori is about buying for yourself! You can buy it and afford the pieces that you want and I think it is interesting!
IG @natori
PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY | Natori
Read the APR ISSUE #100 of Athleisure Mag and see INDULGE YOURSELF AND ME TIME | Josie Natori in mag.
Featured
THE JOY OF ACCESSORIES | TONY DROCKTON, HAMMITT
Accessories are always the favorite part of our look and it's always great to add to our collection. Over a decade ago, we learned about a boho brand that allowed us to wear them with a number of our outfits, no matter the style we were rocking at the time. This brand is known for their leathers, fabrication, style, and very quickly become a go-to that you enjoy wearing!
We caught up with CEO/Founder, and Chief Cheerleader, Tony Drockton of Hammitt. His passion for this brand and its growth is undeniable. He believes in having fun in the workplace and creating memories for those that will wear the brand as they make it their own. We wanted to know more about how the brand started, how he came to the brand, the design aesthetic, and upcoming projects that we should keep an eye out for.
ATHLEISURE MAG: It’s such a pleasure to connect with you as we have been a fan of the brand for as long as it has been around! I also love that we have a few things in common from both of us being from the Midwest!
TONY DROCKTON: I’m from Cleveland and I get to make fun of it because I was born there. It was great growing up there, but then I just absolutely wanted more. I like going back, I’m grateful to have family there, but I’m also grateful as you know – you being on the East Coast and me on the West Coast, it’s great to be here! Where in Indiana?
AM: Indianapolis and my parents met and graduated from your Alma mater, Bowling Green State University!
TD: Oh wow! I’ll be back there in BG this month.
AM: Nice, I went to Indiana University.
TD: Yup, that’s a good one! BG, they have a thing called Entrepreneurship Week every year and I started going back last year and I’m going back this year. I get to speak and judge a competition it’s so fun!
AM: Before we delve into talking about the brand, can you tell me about your background and how you came to Hammitt?
TD: Well we are in our 16th year, quick start, I bumped into Stephanie Hammitt when she was making the bags locally and I fell in love with her as a person as she’s wonderful. She was looking for an investor and I loved the designs and the brand and thought, “let’s give this a shot.” That’s the nexus and once I got into this industry, I fell in love with it.
AM: I remember being gifted a back back in 2009 at an Editor event and I love a lot of the things about that bag that are still cornerstones of the brand. The hardware – the rivets are one of my favorite things, the beautiful fabrication, just how easy it is to wear. I would take them with me to TV segments, a number of events, and travels. I think that it is a testament to the brand that it has really held true as well as having grown into other categories, which is great!
TD: Thank you! The DNA of the brand has been since Stephanie Hammitt and it has really iterated along what we felt would improve the functionality, keep it relevant on the design side, and more importantly to last multiple generations. It’s really about standing the test of time like you mentioned. That’s what we look to do with every new design and also some of our earliest designs are some of our best sellers.
AM: For those that aren’t familiar with the brand, how would you describe what Hammitt is and what are those main things about the brand that people can always see?
TD: I’d say the joy of the brand is how I like to describe it. Like you said, years ago you ran into it and you still remember it and wear it. I think that whether you’re manufacturing footwear or handbags or furniture or cars, when you make something that people get joy out of being apart of, wearing, driving, being in a community of, you’ve nailed it. Think of the late Tony Hsieh, the founder of Zappos, I was just relistening to his biography and he talked about how he wasn’t a shoe guy, he was an experience guy and that he wanted to make sure that his internal team, his vendors, and his customers all had a great experience with Zappos. I follow that same lead with Hammitt.
AM: Being the CEO and the Co-Founder of the brand, tell me about your roles at Hammitt and I also love that you are the Chief Cheerleader which I think is awesome!
TD: Thank you! Well you know, when you’re the founder, you do it all. There’s just a couple of us in the office including our current designer, Jeanne Allen, she's on her 10th year. Then you grow into sort of more of a leadership role as a CEO. I stepped away and became Chairman and brought in a CEO for 7 years and then he just retired. We retired our first long time Hammitt person in March and now I'm CEO again! So I’m Founder, CEO, and also the Chief Cheerleader which has always sort of been my role. I go back to my football days where I was always the guy cheering them on whether I was on defense or offense saying, “we can do it, we can do it!” Whether we were down 1 or up as you want to keep up that energy.
I think it’s very important for people to have fun wherever they work and also cheerleading our team during some of the tougher years. It’s just as important to remind people to stay humble when things are going as well as they are right now and that’s a cheerleader right?
AM: Absolutely.
What’s an average day or week like for you at the brand?
TD: Ha! There isn’t one! You really want to have an open schedule for when people need you. I’m a big believer in keeping that so that I can have 1:1 time as needed. We also have a limited number of regular meetings that we all have within the company and then I try to spend as much of my time in front of our customers or in front of our retail sales associates at our 3 stores, or with our vendors out in some of our Wholesale partners. That’s the joy of standing by our collection in the middle of Minneapolis, and having people try it on and to ask them how they know Hammitt or standing in my store. Or it’s about walking down the street when someone has it on in the wild and asking them how they know about the brand? The next words they say are the words that energize me. Most of the time it’s, “oh I just love this bag, it was given to me by somebody,” or “that it has traveled with me all around the world.” Sometimes it’s simply how many memories that it has created. That’s what they usually talk about. That’s what is so wonderful!
AM: Well, I love the fact that you are so in tune from the customer side and also with your team. My background was in Wholesale, I worked at Lacoste so I dealt with a lot of our accounts. When you see someone that is in the C-Suite that’s rolling their sleeves up, it’s actually energizing not only from a customer perspective, but the actual team of employees that works together. So that’s amazing.
TD: You know Kimmie, in the earliest days, every new person had to work in our in-house distribution center for at least a week. They got to run the products, they got to ship them, pack them, write the handwritten notes when people purchased them, look at the repairs when they came in, and check in new product. That sort of energy can’t be recreated by starting in the office. We’re much bigger now so not everyone is in our fulfillment center, but many of us still spend time on the retail floor, and if we don’t do that, we absolutely spend time at our events. We throw a lot of events and our team always shows up to support. Being in front of the people that love the brand, it’s not work. If it’s work, get out! The greatest companies in the world do this all the time whether it’s in the fashion industry, or any other industry, or the service industry right?
AM: Yup! 100%
How would you define the Hammitt customer?
TD: Ooo. You know, laying aside demographics and laying aside the main psychographics, she loves life and that’s our customer.
AM: I love that! You never know what detailed answer will come with a question like that and it’s great when you hear it, but there is something simple and expansive about she loves life!
I love that the assortment is so diverse whether you’re minimal or not. Can you walk us through the assortment or major product types of the brand?
TD: Well, let’s start with some signature pieces that have been around for about 5-15 years. We have our Daniel which is our satchel and it’s carried all over the country. It can hold a notebook computer or it can hold just a couple of things for the day. We have the Bryant right next to that – those 2 go hand-in-hand. Our collectors have both. Then you go into our clutches and we have the VIP which has been around since almost the beginning and there is a whole series of VIP different styles around that. The belt bag is hot right now so Charles is in charge. There’s a slingback so you can wear it around or wear it as a crossbody it’s a great bag. Then we drop down into the bag that I like because it’s called The Tony!
AM: That’s fair!
TD: It’s a perennial winner when it comes to events. I’m sure for Athleisure Magazine, there are a couple of people that might like sports and you have to have a clear bag when you’re going into the stadiums! Then The Tony leather sits side by side that series. Then we have a new entrant called the Kyle. Kyle is small and goes everywhere for the woman who seeks joy and goes everywhere, she’s going to love Kyle!
AM: Wow! When does the Kyle come out?
TD: Let’s just say that it could be out by the time that people are reading this!
AM: Ok!
So if there had to be only 3 bags that a woman would take to start or round out her collection what would those essentials be in the world of Hammitt?
TD: If she’s going on a trip and she can only take 3, I think that she's going to pack the Charles for everyday and probably inside of that, she is going to have a Tony or a VIP to go out with friends or for some events. Those are the go-to bags that I see most women carrying.
I have to mention one more!
AM: See that’s what happens!
TD: It just came out and we just dropped our VIP Mobile which carries a mobile phone and everything that you need in a day.
AM: In terms of fabrication, I love that you just have so many colors and textures. What’s your approach when it comes to colorways in general or as it pertains to the different bodies?
TD: The beauty of having a brand that has been developed over this time, I have an amazing design team led By Jeanne and Collier Smith, they’re all about color theory and one just currently came back from over seas and the other is in Brazil right now. Additionally, they were in Paris, they have been to Milan, so they just finished choosing colors for Spring 25 and they’re already looking for colors for Summer 25. They really look at color as a combination of when the bags are going to come out and what is the inspiration for the collection. So, they have some pastels in our Fall collection for 24 and they’re pastels – they’re right on the runway in the Fall collections. They really try to align both with that woman that loves to be a little bit on the fashion edge while also always wanting something that is timeless. So they walk that line with color theory.
AM: In terms of hardware, I have always loved that about the brand as well. Is that the same thought that goes into that by maintaining certain elements of it and deviating a bit here and there depending on the styles that it is on?
TD: You know, we’re really consistent on our hardware. The reason for that is the DNA of the brand is actually the look of the the brand from far away and across the street. So that signature rivet detail either comes down on the side, the bottom, or the front of every design. It’s 1 size rivet and it’s spaced pretty consistently and that’s the main hardware. Then the other piece of hardware is interchangeable, for example, all of our straps are removable so you can move them from bag to bag especially when trends change. So, we’re pretty consistent. But I will let you in on a secret – we might be working on a new custom piece of hardware that may come out sometime this year and that’s new for us! What we will do also is that within the rivet, we may change finishes and we might even change to a custom rivet for one of our collectible editions. We have done a lot of collaborations. So we have done collaborations with different brands so there will be some customization on the actual rivet for a specific collection which you might have seen in the past on a few items and you’re definitely going to see that later on this year.
AM: Well that’s exciting.
What is your process in terms of your inline items when you’re thinking of adding items to the heritage of the brand versus keeping the core?
TD: Again, the design team, their call to action is that when they see a need in the market, then they’re going to bring us a new silhouette. So we don’t hamper them and say that we need 4,000 new silhouettes every week. In general, it comes down to about 4 times a year that they’re going to bring out a silhouette that fills a need as functionality is the backbone of the brand, but that is also probably on trend as we do have the classic silhouettes that are already in place. It’s a combination of the two and I will let you in on another one, every time that we launch a new silhouette, a single H rivet that we put on it is on the right corner and it signifies that it is brand new. It’s only on it when we launch it.
AM: I like that, it’s almost like a hidden Mickey when you go to Disney. When you know where to look.
TD: Yeah! I heard of this thing about the first pickle at Disneyland, have you heard about it?
AM: Yeah I had heard something about it!
TD: We have some Disney girls that work for us and if you’re the first one in the park and you run to the pickle vendor, you get the first pickle and then a button! I love Easter Eggs.
AM: Same!
TD: When I was a young kid playing video games and you would bump into the secret doorway or you would have to tap the keys in a certain way to open up another level, we have a lot of those in this brand!
AM: I love it!
TD: This catalog right here is our latest one and it has multiple hidden Easter Eggs inside of it. We have the H rivet on our bags, inside of our bags is a little vintage tag which actually says when it was made, every bag has a secret little red somewhere whether it’s outside or inside, and it goes on and on and on.
AM: That’s so fun because as people grow with the brand, they have these fun things to look for and there’s always something new to unveil which is what makes the brand so exciting.
TD: It is! People want familiarity, I believe and the familiarity is the consistency of our long term silhouettes and the signature of the detail and the high quality in the functionality. So they also want something new and when we launch a pure fashion collection, so right now it’s April, we just came out with a new colorway on the VIP that will only be launched now on that silhouette and when it’s gone it’s gone. So it’s a seasonal exclusive, now we also may have repeat seasonal colorways that we bring back every year and that would be normally on newer silhouettes or on other ones. So next year if a leather is really good and then we have our long time perennial leathers that we use over and over again and that’s what we call our bestseller collection. So we have the combination of the 3 and that really allows us to serve every customers needs.
AM: About how many launches would you say a year are taking place – or drops? Because I always love that in accessories it tends to be different then in apparel.
TD: They design in quarter periods. So this year, we call is 24.1, 24.2, 24.3, and 24.4, but traditionally they would call it I guess, Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter, Holiday, Cruise but within each one of those quarters, we have our monthly collections and within our monthly, we also have our weekly drops. So really, every week we’re dropping a new leather family and/or a new leather family with a new silhouette. Every month we have new combinations of either leather families or silhouettes and for every quarter, we have a new collection that tells a story.
AM: Your Sales Meetings must be interesting because that’s massive!
TD: Well, that’s our design team. I love it and they come up with everything. They get inspired and we’re in our 24.2 which is Summer. By the way, do you know Jose Canseco?
AM: Um of course one of the premier power hitters in MLB with the A’s and played for a number of teams including the Yankees!
TD: Well, our latest catalog as you can see here, this is his daughter Josie (Kygo Feat. Ella Henderson - Here for You video, Kith Park: SS2019 NYFW, The Surreal Life)! She’s adorable and amazing.
AM: When you first were talking about the catalog a few minutes back and I was looking at it, I thought wow Jessica looks really good but I know she is much older then the young girl that is on the cover, but wow that’s her daughter!
TD: That’s Josie, we shot her last month and this catalog is our summer collection and it was inspired by our hometown of Hermosa Beach which is where the brand is born and raised, where I live right now with my son, our offices, and Hermosa is a very eclectic town. It’s right next to Manhattan Beach, but it’s its own personality. They came back and that was about a year ago and they laid out what they thought would be a collection to honor our hometown and she was perfect. We shot her and everything came together in this collection of what I just told you about it. It has monthly drops, it has weekly drops, we had a big launch event on April 4th and that’s the first time that we have done this sort of launch. But it’s about bringing everyone together to honor our little town of Hermosa Beach – it’s been fun.
AM: How do you approach doing collaborations and partnerships. I love the work that you have been dong within Mary Fitzgerald of Netflix's Selling Sunset as I think she’s great and you can see how she is aligned with the brand.
TD: We love Mary, she was truly a fan for a long time like you, she knew Hammitt. She was a real estate agent right here on the South Bay where we’re from and then she went out to the West side and had the show, she already had our bags so she was already wearing them. That’s one way that we do collaborations when it seems to be a match. Another way is when my design team and myself love art! Art is my personal inspiration. I go to Art Basel, whenever I travel I go to a lot of modern museums so does Jeanne so does Collier and we found Alex Alpert who is our latest collaboration and we found him at Art Basel a couple of years ago and we’re launching with him this quarter next month. It’s graffiti and when you at look at the design, it’s actually all Hermosa Beach, it’s our city, its waves, volleyball, our logo and he drew this on leather and then we made it into the collection. And that rivet which you can see is a melting rivet.
AM: Which is pretty cool.
TD: So Alex is a fulltime artist, young, very cool and he has a collaboration that I can’t mention coming out with a global brand. He’s gotten really lucky and I don’t even know if he is even 30 yet! The commonality between Mary and Alex – it’s the ones that we think have a great personality. They love life and we want to really collaborate with people where we enjoy the relationship.
AM: Are there other collaborations that we should also keep an eye out for? Are you thinking about LA28 which is coming up? I could see some amazing things there.
TD: Yeah, so there’s a women’s rally launching in the Fall called the Princess Rally and it’s a 100 women driving sports cars from Southern California up to Northern California and it’s sponsored by Richard Mille, a luxury watch brand. We’re doing a collaboration between us, Richard Mille, and them.
Every September we have what we call the September Issue. We have a collaborative bag that will be coming out for that this year as well. Then at the end of the year, there is an artist that we have a collaboration coming out with and she is a print artist and that’s Dani Dazey. She has already posted about it and she's lovely! She’s so great and she did a beautiful print and we have a whole collection that we will be dropping before the end of the year with her. We’re already working on our collaborations for ’25.
AM: Haha I’m always thinking of something. Being that my background is in fashion, being a Fashion Stylist, as well as being an Accessory Expert, I love seeing true collaborations between people or brands that are amazing on their own, but when they are brought together, you truly have a whole new way of looking at something that you really appreciate.
TD: You know, it’s wonderful right? One of the things that we do is these pop-ups as we have 3 retail stores – Manhattan Beach, South Coast Plaza, and Le Jolla here in California. For Women’s Month in March last month, every Saturday, there were 5 of them and across 3 stores, we had 15 pop-ups of small artisans – candlemakers, hatmakers, flowers, and permanent jewelry. They came and set up in our stores on a Saturday and we welcomed in our customers to meet them and they brought their fans and we had champagne, drinks, and music pumping. It was a really great atmosphere and we will be bringing in a lot more of that as we go on throughout the year. It was very successful.
AM: Do you do pop-ups outside of California like here in NY? Or are you thinking of making a store in NY?
TD: We have had pop-ups throughout the country, not in the traditional open for 2 month set up. But we have sat inside a Kendra Scott store in The Hamptons or back in their hometown. We have been invited to do trunk shows all over the country with our retail partners and we still do. We just celebrated National Hammitt Day with our largest partner on a Saturday and they had a small gift for all of their clients and it was a lot of fun. NYC, it’s still on my map and my bucket list. In our earliest day, we used to do a week in the windows of Henri Bendel for Hammitt when they were around.
AM: I remember! I loved that store and still miss it!
TD: I loved it too and I liked us being there. So I have always wanted to come back to NY in style and be on 5th Ave for our own pop-up and it will happen one day!
AM: That is so amazing and I can’t wait for that. Are there any pop-ups in your local area that you want to share that are taking place this Spring or Summer that we can keep an eye out for for our readers?
TD: I would say that in our 3 stores at least 1 to 2 times a month we have small artisans and makers that will be coming in and so look out for those. On May 17th is our Annual Investors Day. So we did a crowd funding and we have a lot of collectors who invested and we are bringing them all together and it’s a day of joy and fun. We can share our results and what we’re doing moving forward. This will be the first time that we have done that. So this will be great. Then once a year we usually have an in-person event that is in Nov where people fly in from all over the country and it’s a theme. Last year’s was Mama Mia and it was a Greek theme and people get to come and be in that theme to have fun, food, and great cocktails. It’s also a great way for them to be able to see all of our latest designs.
AM: Obviously as we’ve been talking, it’s a women’s brand, but there are a lot of pieces that translate for a man as well. Would you ever create a men’s capsule collection or go in that direction in some way?
TD: [Smiles]
AM: I thought so!
TD: I don’t know, maybe you’re on to something haha!
AM: What have been some of the things that you have been proud of for this brand?
TD: I mean, I’m always the proudest when someone comes up to me and tells me how much they have loved my Hammitt. It’s always what they do with them, where they traveled, who they got it from, what memories they have created, and the second piece of it is our team! I was so proud of Angel who was just in NYC.
AM: Yup, I saw him and had the chance to chat with him at the Accessories Council event at Tin Building by Jean-Georges.
TD: He started at our retail store 3 years ago and I asked him what he wanted to do and he told me that he wanted to work at our headquarters. I said great and I told him that when he was ready, let’s go.
AM: What are things that are taking place with the brand whether it’s holiday season or whatever that you’re able to share that it longer term that we can keep an eye out for.
TD: I just saw our Holiday collection. It just came in and it’s mind blowing. It’s the colors, the textures, and it’s going to take it to another level and is a celebration of who we are. I gave you the secrets of Fall – the Princess Rally is going to be great, our September Issue, wait until you see it. That’s all I can give you for now!
IG @hammittla
PHOTOGRAPHY CREDITS | Hammitt
Read the APR ISSUE #100 of Athleisure Mag and see THE JOY OF ACCESSORIES | Tony Drockton, Hammitt in mag.
Featured
BINGELY BOOKS
HAWAI'I GOLD: A CELEBRATION OF SURFING
Rizzoli
Carissa Moore
We had the pleasure of having Carissa Moore a Team USA Olympic Surfing Gold Medalist and 5X World Surf League Women's Champion as our FEB ISSUE #86 cover. We have always enjoyed seeing her compete and how she does so with a smile on her face!
Hawai'i Gold: A Celebration of Surfing shares her story and what she thinks about her sport, her love of Hawaii as well as surf legends on what it means to be a surfer from Hawaii.
In this book, we find out about the heritage of surfing in Hawaii and of course the images in the book include the island, surf icons, surf prep, and so much more. It's defintiely a book that you will find on your coffee table that everyone will want to look through when they stop by.
EVEREST, INC.: THE RENEGADES AND ROGUES WHO BUILT AN INDUSTRY AT THE TOP OF THE WORLD
Gallery Books
Will Cockrell
We know about those who climb Mount Everest and in Everest, Inc. The Renegades and Rogues Who Built an Industry at the Top of the World, we get to know more about those who are instrumental in that effort - the guides and climbers!
We know that making the climb is not for the faint at heart as there is bad weather, severe altitudes, and it is congested for a number of people who make the attempt whether it's ego driven or to add to their social feeds.
The trip also has an impact on those who don't respect the mountain by leaving trash behind or even exploiting local Sherpas.
This book has a comprehensive focus on the history of the Himalayan guiding industry which started in the 1980's with gritty entrepreneurs who wanted to create a new style of expedition planning. You'll find quotes by those in the industry, writers, filmmakers, and Hollywood notables. All share their thoughts on the climbs to add their thoughts to this portion of the industry.
FASHION'S BIG NIGHT OUT: A MET GALA LOOKBOOK
Welbeck Publishing
Kristen Bateman
The first Mon of May is fashion's biggest night known as The Met Gala and in Fashion's Big Night Out: A Met Gala Lookbook, we look at a legendary event that fuses art, fashion and pop culture. You will learn about its history through imagery which started in 1948. It also looks at the ensembles that hit the carpet based on theme. There is also a foreward by iconic designer, Jeremy Scott who has created a number of looks for this event.
Read the APR ISSUE #100 of Athleisure Mag and see BINGELY BOOKS in mag.
Featured
63MIX ROUTIN3S | TONY DROCKTON
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK FW2024 EDIT
This month, we attended a number of NYFW FW24 shows which is a great way to see the upcoming collections from an array of designers that are on our radar. We kicked off the season with New York Men's Day - NYMD on Feb 9th that presented its 21st season of 8 designers between the morning and afternoon session at Location05 in Hudson Yards.
NYMD | TERRY SINGH
We started off with Terry Singh's presentation with his namesake collection for his menswear brand that launched in 2014 and is based in NYC. Terry was raised in NYC and began working in the fashion industry in the '70s. He also took some time to go to India where he immersed himself into Indian culture as well as meditation. He returned to the city with his shift in how he approached his life and wanted to take what he learned to bring it to make his mark in fashion.
Terry feels that, "this collection resonated with the narrative of my odyssey, visually manifesting the metamorphosis that defines who I am today."
The collection included a number of pieces that included blazers, outerwear, structured skirts, intricate fabrications and coordinates. It was a rich tapestry that allowed us to see where menswear as well as genderless looks can be elevated for gala and soiree looks.
PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY | PG 98 Terry Singh
NYMD | Y.CHROMA
The 4 designers that presented their collection in the morning of NYMD, showcased collections that included suiting and eveningwear. We were also excited to check out Y.Chroma, founded by Max Israel! This brand was founded in 2023 in Lisbon, Portugual.
The collection is focused on male midlife re-invention with a customer base of 40+ and want to wear vibrant hues. The European crafstmanship was evident in seeing this collection and we truly enjoyed the unique textiles that were included in this show and still presented a youthful collection that we could totally see being worn by those that are outside of the intended demographic. We love how they embrace midlife reinvention and the universal appeal of this brand!
PHOTOGRAPHY Courtesy | PG 101 Y.Chroma
BACKSTAGE PRABAL GURUNG
We left Location05 to pop out to cover Backstage at Prabal Gurung who showed at the Starrett-Lehigh Building. Being backstage allows you to see how the inspiration for the designer's vision comes together for the hair, makeup, and nail teams.
The inspiration behind Prabal Gurung's comes from the loss in his home country of Nepal where he created silhouettes that offered a balance of warmth and melancholy through tactile fabrics that were sculpted and ethereal.
“It was to give into grief,” Gurung said backstage. “That was a new thing for me, but I decided to give in simply because that was the only way that I could go through it, which took me back to my father’s side of the family — which I normally have stayed away from, to be completely honest — and it led to these images and everything. It was just so cathartic and so healing, so I brought this to life because it gave me comfort.”
To merge the gravity of the somberness of the inspiration of the show, there was still a balance with his signature feminine styles by incorporating fringe and drapery. These ethereal elements gave a sense of uplifting ones spirit.
The apparel that hit the runway was supported by a glam team that worked with the models, Super Models such as Precious Lee, and celebs such as Sarita Choudhury (Homeland, Blindspot, And Just Like That...). We had the pleasure to chat with Celebrity Nail Artist, Gina Edwards who is the Kiss Product Inc U.S/Canada Brand Ambassador and Lead Nail Artist for this show. In addition to her role with these products, she has worked with Chanel Beauty on a Valentine's Campaign, she was the manicurist for Nicole Kidman for her Balenciaga Ambassador imagery, and was the manicurist for Vera Wang for her CFDA Award to name a few.
We wanted to find out how she extended Prabal's vision into the nails that worn by the models who were part of the runway show.
ATHLEISURE MAG: We always love going backstage to see the magic come together and we've been watching the models as they're in prep to hit the runway. We know that you used acrylic nails to create this look. Can you tell us more about this?
GINA EDWARDS: For the show, we used these acrylics in nude in XXL and we stiletto’d it out to be coffin shaped. We just created the color over it to give it that exclusivity that is the theme of this show. The look whether it’s the red or the silver is a bit of a moonstone/cat eye effect. When you look at it one way, it has one color and then another, you see the other one. It’s a bit of a haunting effect and that ties into the makeup that has that smokey and sultry look to it. So the nails really add to that vibe. It’s amazing to see how everything comes together. The designer has a vision and he explained it to the glam team of hair, makeup, and nails. So we came up with this idea and everyone loves it and along the way, you tweak it to get it to where you see it today.
AM: How long did it take for you to arrive to what we’re seeing on the runway for tonight’s show as it’s a collaboration between Prabal's vision of where he sees it and how you’re interpreting the theme?
GE: Well, there was about 2 weeks when you’re having the conversations and when you land on what you think will work and then you get the products in and to be able to create what has been decided on. Once you select the teams that will actually execute it, I would say it’s about 5 days.
The elusive nail which was the theme for the show was inspired by the experimental use of fabrics in Prabal's collection. The magnetic, cat-eye finish on the KISS nails really merge that eccentric and elusive element together to create that haunting look which is in keeping with this collection which is known as, Fragmented Memories.
AM: Oh wow and there’s so much work to build the nails!
GE: Oh yeah, I mean, shaping takes the most time! I mean shape is everything when it comes to the nail. You have to shape the nail, look at, then look at it from the birds eye view. It looks one way when you see it from one standpoint and then another and then, this nail isn’t on you so it’s a lot of work to really articulate the nail.
You can get The Magnetic Effect Manicure at home which is one of the hottest trends from the runway. Using KISS Gel Fantasy Magnetic collection in style Ruler or imPRESS Color Press-On Manicure in style Red Velvet you too can rock these stunning nails from Prabal’s show in minutes. These ready-to-wear styles are easy to apply and last up to a week.
HOW GINA EDWARDS CREATED THE CUSTOM-DESIGNED RUNWAY LOOK:
• Step 1: Select and size KISS Salon Acrylic Natural Nails in style Crystal and shape to stiletto
Natural Nails in style Crystal and shape to stiletto
• Step 2: Apply nail glue to belly of the nail and natural nail, then press down gently, repeat x10 nails
• Step 3: Apply a coat of your favorite magnetic color and use magnet on both sides parallel to the nail. Cure each finger for 90 seconds
• Step 4: Apply second coat and use the magnet again to see the glass like effect on the nails. Cure for 90 seconds.
• Step 5: Add top gel coat and cure for 60 seconds.
PHOTOGRAPHY | PG 102 + 103 Go Runway.com
After spending a few hours at Prabal Gurung's backstage courtesy of Gina Edwards and the KISS Products team, we made our way back to Location05 for the second session of NYMD and the designers that were showing during this presentation.
NYMD | THE SALTING
Designers Michael Ward & Manel Garcia Espejo founded The Salting, a menswear/womenswear brand in 2018 and is based in NYC. With their second presentation at NYMD as well as being recently inducted into the CFDA as interim members, they are carried in approximately 20 locations in the US and Canada including Bergdorf Goodman.
They're fabrications are globally sourced with sustainable mills and all of their tailoring is done in the US. This design duo has an extensive background in fashion design in the luxury space.
This season's collection's inspiration is On The Waterfront and has an aesthetic that honors longshoremen and dockworkers with its use of buffalo checks, plaid, tweeds, chalk stripes and more. Even their sportswear showcases their tailored DNA and we enjoyed their classic pea coats and other structured pieces.
PAS UNE MARQUE
In 2018, Sean Coutts founded menswear label, Pas Une Marque in Paris. The brand's entire manufacturing takes place in Peru. Within each of their collections, they work with a number of artists to tell their brand story. Printemps, the first department store in Paris, carries the brand. We loved the outerwear that was included in this show and can't wait to see more from this brand.
We had a bit of snow that hit NYC, but with 2 shows that we had been looking forward to from 2 Project Runway alums, we were ready to be dazzled by their NYFW FW24 collections.
BISHME CROMARTIE
The afternoon of Feb 13th, we made our way to The Ritz-Carlton New York, NoMad to see Bishme Cromartie's NYFW FW24 presentation. We first learned about Bishme when he competed on Season 17 of Project Runway where he came in 4th. For Season 20 of Project Runway All-Stars, he came back and won! It was amazing to see a number of our favorite designers across the season on this show and the ability to see Bishme push the boundaries of Avante Garde to his self-proclaimed, Street Garde, has been a great evolution.
His brand has been worn on a number of red carpets by Michelle Williams (American Soul, Wrath: A Seven Deadly Sins Story, Kingdom Business) of Destiny's Child, Chloe Bailey (Grown-ish, Swarm, Praise This), and Jennifer Hudson (Cats, The Jennifer Hudson Show, Respect), to name a few.
This presentation had a palette of red, white, and black and spanned from elevated streetwear all the way to red carpet looks during Awards Season.
When asked about where the inspiration from his show came from, he shared, "I further explored my obsession of mixing Streetwear with Avant Garde designs. Striking, feminine and bold shapes paired with a variety of coats, edgy tops, form fitting and dramatic gowns. I continued to define what “Street Garde'' is by staying true to my aesthetic and testing new ideas. I wanted the collection to feel strong, effortlessly sexy, masculine, and feminine at the same time. The collection showcases the Bishme Cromartie woman who is ready for change, constantly on the go and loves to stand out, no matter where she is. This season we are entering the Batrix."
PHOTOGRAPHY | PG 104 - 108 Paul Farkas |
LAURENCE BASSE
We ended our NYFW FW24 shows the evening of Feb 13th with Project Runway alum, Laurence Basse who was a finalist in both Season 15 as well Season 20 for Project Runway All-Stars. We have been a long time fan of her mastery of leatherwork and in seeing her first solo show at The Paramount Building in Times Square, we were thrilled to be able to talk to her in detail about how she got into the industry, her namesake line, her NYFW show, and what we can expect from her as she continues to push the envelope of her brand.
ATHLEISURE MAG: It is such a pleasure to be able to talk with you as I’ve been a fan of your work and aesthetic!
LAURENCE BASSE: Thank you so much, thank you! I really appreciate you having me.
AM: Of course! I have been a fan of yours since I first saw you on Season 15 of Project Runway, and just your artistry, the way you work with leather, your style, and attitude – everything about you is definitely Black Girl Magic.
LB: Oh I’m trying, I’m trying.
AM: Oh no, you are not trying, you are doing!
So you got your start in the industry as a model. You have modeled with BENNETTON, Jean Paul Gautier, and you have been in French Elle as well as Cosmopolitan. You did this for 15 years, what was the moment that you realized you wanted to be a fashion designer.
LB: Well I mean, this is the narrative in the streets, but really, I went to fashion school in Paris before I was even modeling. I started fashion school when I was 17 years old. So from 17 – 22, I was in fashion school and I started modeling when I was in Paris I think 3 years into fashion school. It was just there and I thought, “why not?” I used that to then move to the US and it became a 15 year off and on.
AM: Where did you go to school?
LB: I went to school, my first one was in Normandy called Elisa Lemonnier and then I went to another school in Paris, an art school by the same name at the 12 Arrondissement.
AM: When I first saw you in Season 15 of Project Runway, I was just blown away by what you did throughout that season. What drew you to compete on the show?
LB: You know, let’s just say that I never casted for the show. I never did. I quit modeling, I was in LA, I was bartending, and I had my studio, but I was like, ok, since I didn’t do the designing the way that they are saying which is you get out of school and you go work for a brand, and I didn’t do that. I was modeling, traveling, and living my best life.
So at this point, I was 35, I had started this thing, but how do I go from zero to 50 at least? I had a friend of mine that was a Super Model back in the days in France and she actually reached out to me a year before my season to do the French version of Project Runway in France, and I said, "hell, no! I'm not doing a reality show blah blah blah boom boom boom – not when it comes to designing.”
Time went by and I got an email after that from the US. They told me that they were casting for Project Runway. My first reaction, “hell, no!” I’m not doing this. But my friend was with me and she was like, “Laurence it is a good opportunity and you should do it.” I didn’t say no. I literally waited until the deadline. If the deadline was like Mar. 30th at midnight, I waited until the deadline to submit whatever it was that they were asking me.
Then they called me back. I didn’t know that they had already had a casting in the US. So I thought that I was going in for the casting, but it had already been done. I went straight to the final 2 appointments that they had before they decided on who they wanted to have on the show. I went in and I brought in like 10 pair of clothes and they loved it and after that, they asked me to come in the next day. The next day was a whole hour – hour and a half interview. That’s when they say, ok we know you can sew, we love you, but as far as your personality, they have to figure that out.
I did my interview for a little over an hour and it went well I think. I was good! The lady told me, “Laurence, if you made it this far it means you’re perfect for this show. But If we do not cast you for this season, please come back next season.” I told her, “I won’t be coming back.” If I make it, great and if I don’t, I’m still happy. I literally left the casting and I literally left the casting and I was going to my car in LA and I was like dancing in the parking lot. It was an investment for me. It’s already mine and if not, it’s ok too. Then they called me and that’s how I made it onto the show.
AM: I’m glad that you did because the moment you started creating dynamic pieces and watching how you work with leather beyond what I have seen anyone else do – it was phenomenal to watch. As a fashion stylist and someone who has grown up in this industry from a young age – watching you make leather do things that we don’t think that that fabrication supports usually, I was like, “where did this women come from?” I became obsessed and it was thrilling to see you be a finalist on that season.
LB: Thank you!
AM: And then when it came to Season 20 that aired last year with Project Runway All-Stars, what were you thinking about coming back to this crazy environment of a competition show?
LB: Oh yeah, it’s definitely crazy!
So basically, the first time that I went, I didn’t know what I was expecting. I went in and I thought to myself, I am going to win. There was no other option and then I didn’t win. So I went home and I thought, “what am I going to do now?” But God has other plans. With the show rolling, it just jump started my career. I have just been going ever sense since that. It did a lot of things that were great for me. So when the second time came around, I thought, never again would I do a show like that. Right?
AM: Yeah!
LB: But, the only reason and again, they came back and said, “Laurence, do you want to jump on a call? We’re thinking of doing All-Stars.” I said sure and got on the call. But I wasn’t like, “yay!” I had to pause and think about it. Like I said, it did great for me, they have their own agenda and I went in with my own. Even when I accepted to do it, and I did it because it was All-Stars. It was about the contestants coming back to compete for something bigger. So I was like ok, this can’t hurt me and it can only reboost the machine. So I went in and I remember I said, “my head said that the best position for me to land was to be a runner-up.” Technically, I don’t want to win because I don’t want to be tied into anything.
But my ego, wanted to win the whole thing. The ego is the one that got hurt, but everything happened the way that it was supposed to happen. I did what I wanted to do and it was ok.
AM: Well, you turned out amazing pieces yet again!
LB: I was like, keep playing in my face!
AM: I love it!
So why do you like working with leather? Your mastery of leather is just insane.
LB: Thank you!
Well, I’m self-taught when it comes to leather. But my background is really haute couture, making the dresses and all of the extravagant things that people like to wear. I was like, everyone is doing this – a lot of people are doing it. I wanted to be different. I don’t want to be in the norm. I wanted to know what was out there that I could do and work with that I could separate myself from most designers. So I was thinking about leather for 2 reasons. As a child, when I was younger, leather was – when I would look at people who owned leather, they were rich. It was something that, yes I wanted it. But I couldn’t afford it. Then, before that, I love luxury. All of the stuff that I love when I go to the stores, it gives me a real headache! Because it’s $5,000, $6,000, and $10,000! I’d look at it and I’d say, “I can’t do it!” So I decided let me teach myself how to do this and I am going to do it better and I'm going to do it as a challenge to myself. I thought, “ok, all the stuff that I love the Balmain, Saint Laurent, the Gucci, the Tom Ford – it’s over overpriced,”, but look who’s talking now?
It's overpriced, but I’m going to one day sell my stuff at the same price as those people. I’ll be up there with them and that was the bet to myself. So, then leather when people think about it, they think it’s rigid and that there’s not a lot of what you can do with it. But for me, I was like, I’m going to get in there – me and leather are going to have a talk and we’re going to get to know each other. Now I know leather pretty well and I work it like it’s any kind of fabric. There’s no limitation to it. If you want a wedding dress, I’ll make your wedding dress in leather. If you want a flowy skirt or whatever it is, I just don’t want to put limitations on it.
AM: Well you are a master at it. You work a leather like it’s a silk or a taffeta and before you, I had never seen people treat it that way!
LB: That was the goal.
AM: How would you describe your brand your line. You have a number of NBA athletes and different celebrities that have worn your collection.
LB: Well my line, my line is definitely – it’s not haute couture, I’m not RTW. I’m somewhere in between so it’s a luxury brand catered to strong women and strong men. It’s very – for me it’s normal – but the stuff that I put together, they’re not supposed to exist in the same world. But they work for me, because it’s just an extension of me – female/male, cold/hot, edgy/soft – I just love to mix the two together.
AM: What are 3 core pieces that if someone was purchasing pieces from you for the first time that they would be essentials to have in their closet?
LB: Oh you have to have a classic leather jacket. The classic LB is the one with the shoulders. I have been rocking that one for the past x amount of years. You would think that I have a lot of leather jackets, right?
AM: Oh yeah!
LB: I have probably 3 but I recycle them. I have this one that’s like a Motorcycle Jacket with the shoulders and it’s classic and I love it! So, either that one or a Bomber – whatever classic is to you. A pair of leather gloves, and a jumpsuit!
You don’t even need 3, if you like to have just one, it’s either a leather jacket or a jumpsuit. If you can’t afford it, get a pair of gloves!
AM: There’s a solution and then keep saving your coins to get one of those pieces!
LB: Exactly!
AM: My Co-Founder and I had the pleasure of going to your NYFW FW24 show! My mouth was on the floor throughout the runway show and I even teared up a bit because the craftsmanship of seeing great pieces always transports me.
LB: Thank you!
AM: What was the inspiration behind this collection?
LB: You know, I always tell people that the place I design from it’s I guess a storytelling place, but it’s like I tell my stories by creating. That’s my communication. I don’t sometimes put words into it. I don’t always have a story, but for this one, it started with one piece – a Bulletproof Vest. With everything that is going on in the world, you know – all the crazy stuff, the wars, but if you stay in it, you go crazy. So we still have to find other beautiful things in the world that is going on. So it was a mix of the two. The leather Bulletproof Vest – that’s why I mixed it with the soft and beautiful flowy stuff. I got it from that piece and I just let it flow.
AM: I’m sure it was such a project to undertake, a solo show during NYFW!
LB: Girl, it was insane!
AM: Days leading up to your show, I was on your IG and I could see that there were a lot of moving parts going on. It definitely built up the anticipation, but I know you must have been spending a lot of time getting all those things together.
LB: My God! One day I will tell that story. But we kind of documented everything on film – not everything, because sometimes you don’t think about it. It was by far one of the hardest things that I had ever done. I self-financed it, I had a great team, but me and Mykel, we were both wearing different hats and I had to try and stay kind of zen and to be able to create. I mean, I made all of my samples. There was no team, that’s maybe for next season. But we literally decided because Project Runway All-Stars wrapped in Sept. and technically, we were already at Fashion Week. So I thought, “ok, it doesn’t make sense for me to do a collection in Sept.” But really, if I wanted to wait until I was ready to do it, I should have waited until the following Sept. But then I thought, “no because while things are still hot, I can’t skip Feb.” So we decided that we had 2.5 months to do it. We didn’t know how, we just went by faith. It was like, I believe in you, you believe in me and we just jumped out of the building with no parachute and we hoped that it would land.
AM: What other projects do you have going on now that we can look forward to or that we can keep an eye out for?
LB: Well right now, everything is moving so fast, we are getting our appointments together – so the sales teams so that we can start getting into production and getting into stores. So we will do that in Mar. and we have Market week coming up and April, back thinking about Fashion Week in Sept. So for that, we want to take this to Paris. So the goal is to do Paris Fashion Week and NYFW.
AM: What do you want your legacy to be as you have done a lot and I can only imagine what you will still do with yourself and your brand. But you are a trailblazer and a role model, because there are still not a lot of visible Black people that own luxury brand and especially in the fashion space. That’s something great to see you do unapologetically and in your own style.
LB: Absolutely, like I tell people, it was super important for me growing up in France and even being here, all you hear is people telling us what we can and cannot do and how far we can dream. It’s like when I used to tell people when I was in school to my teachers, they would look at you and roll their eyes. They would tell you to come back down, to be real, and those jobs aren’t for you.
AM: Yup.
LB: And because you said that, that’s why I tell people that I know that I am a Black woman and it’s not going to be easy and that I will have to work 10X harder than the next one because they already have a leg up. I know that and I’m at peace with that. I’m strong. I’m going to knock all of those doors down until I get to where I need to be.
When I went to Italy and they are the kings of leather, how they received and reacted to my work, I looked at their reflection in my eyes and I knew that I had it. I just want my people, or even any people, but especially my people to see me and look at me like, she did it. The hard part of it, I will tell my story and write my book one day about it. I want people to look at me and know that it’s possible. Sometimes, all you need is 1!
I’m not doing it just because I love fashion. I could be ok and I have done a lot and I can be content. But no, I need to continue forward and that's what I want my legacy to be. Because when I have to think of a high end Black designer, I have to do some research and think about it and that’s not normal.
For me, we are fashion.
AM: Absolutely!
LB: Seriously, I look at Christian Dior today, Balmain, and Gucci with the stuff that they are doing now, if you told me 20 years ago that this is where they are going, I would have said you’re dreaming!
AM: 100%
LB: But they’re taking those aesthetics, and we’re not getting credit for it. And then we go and give them our money. I think one of the mistakes I think sometimes we do as Black people when we enter that industry, we set limitations. Money is money wherever it comes from, I don’t care. I’m designing for whoever loves fashion.
I tell people that I am Black everyday, we don’t have to debate about that. But, you need to think about how you move. Hire your people – that is where the power is. Where the money comes from like I don’t care. My clients are everywhere. They’re European, American, African, wherever I don’t care. They love fashion and that is what we’re going to talk about. That is the business model of what everyone is doing. You’re presenting a good or service and then via marketing, you’re able to translate that story; however, the offering is universal.
PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY | Laurence Basse
Read the FEB ISSUE #99 of Athleisure Mag and see NEW YORK FASHION WEEK FW2024 EDIT in mag.
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9LIST STORI3S | LAURENCE BASSE
9LOOKS | MONCLER GRENOBLE
Read the FEB ISSUE #98 and see 9LOOKS | Moncler Grenoble in mag.
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PHOTO CREDIT | The New York Times
MAKE ROOM FOR THE BRACKETOLOGIST
You know what time of year it is, we’re all focused on March Madness which allows us to increase our ability to showcase our depth of knowledge in Bracketology, “the activity of predicting the participating teams in a tournament, typically the NCAA. basketball tournament.” With Selection Sunday, March 17th around the corner, we’re all thinking about who is going to the big dance and who we’re adding into the Big Bracket. The New York Times is launching a Bracketologist Sweatsuit Set for college basketball-watching enthusiasts this Friday, March 8th.
This set will exclusively be sold on The New York Times Store and is the first drop from their “Words” Capsule Collection. This will be an evolving product collection that decodes modern language through journalism. This collection will include the Bracketologist Sweatpant ($80) and Bracketologist Crewneck Sweatshirt ($70), the perfect ensemble to wear when you’re out and about or gathering with friends to get your brackets in order!
Read the latest issue of Athleisure Mag.
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9LOOKS | TODD SNYDER
Read the JAN ISSUE #97 of Athleisure Mag and see 9LOOKS | Todd Snyder in mag.
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DUBAI FASHION WEEK FW24/25 | DAY 4: DIMA AYAD
PHOTO CREDIT | Fashion Network
Dubai Fashion Week (DFW) kicked off Fashion Month. Known as the region’s definitive fashion fixture co-founded by Dubai Design District (d3) and Arab Fashion Council (AFC), continued its fourth day of shows.
DFW Member Dima Ayad's Autumn/Winter '24 collection took attendees back to the 90s. Warm, earthy tones dominated the catwalk, drawing inspiration from a rich colour palette iconic of the era. The collection combined shades of rich chocolate, caramel tones, and subtle terracotta with brilliant metallic accents for pieces that balance modernity and nostalgia, sophistication and glamour.
See the full runway here.
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DUBAI FASHION WEEK FW24/25 | DAY 3: RIVA
PHOTO CREDIT | Fashion Network
Dubai Fashion Week (DFW) kicked off Fashion Month. Known as the region’s definitive fashion fixture co-founded by Dubai Design District (d3) and Arab Fashion Council (AFC), continued its third day of shows.
With but a couple of months to go, Riva launched its highly anticipated Ramadan Collection 2024 on day two. The collection featured light, comfortable, rich linen pieces contrasting against sheer, intricately printed organza, inspiring a full house with pieces that balanced luxury with simplicity and structure with fluid designs. Featuring a range of outfits, from stylish daily pieces to elegant eveningwear, Riva’s Ramadan capsule embraced the spirit of the month through metallic hues and silver and gold embroiders and honoured the modern woman by fusing traditional designs with contemporary cuts and details. The collection's focal points included delicate floral prints, optical geometrics, and ethnic motifs, while crystal embroideries and lace appliques added a sophisticated touch.
See the full runway here.
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DUBAI FASHION WEEK FW24/25 | DAY 2: MICHAEL CINCO
PHOTO CREDIT | Kendam
Dubai Fashion Week (DFW) kicked off Fashion Month. Known as the region’s definitive fashion fixture co-founded by Dubai Design District (d3) and Arab Fashion Council (AFC), continued its second day of shows.
Iconic couturier Filipino designer, Michael Cinco showcased stunning looks of mens and womenswear on the second night. He presented an array of cultures, countries and more in his looks. The fabrications alone were expertly blended, printed, layered, pleated, and adorned with intricate embroidery, telling a story of harmony and royalty. A spectrum of colours took over the runway, from delicate blueish-grey gradients transitioning into deep blacks to vibrant hues of violets, aquatic blues and brilliant reds.
See the full runway here.
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DUBAI FASHION WEEK FW24/25 | DAY 2: HUMARIFF
PHOTO CREDIT | Fashion Network
Dubai Fashion Week (DFW) kicked off Fashion Month. Known as the region’s definitive fashion fixture co-founded by Dubai Design District (d3) and Arab Fashion Council (AFC), continued their second day of shows.
Humariff’s collection was created collaboratively by Tamam Humariff and students from the Humariff Academy, Amina Nariman and Zara Khodei. Inspired by mirages in the desert, the unique pieces captured the beauty of nature through different seasons with blooming flowers, rhinestones, beads, and sequins. The exchangeable three-dimensional flowers served as prints, appliqués, and individual accessories.
See the full runway here.
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DUBAI FASHION WEEK FW24/25 | DAY 2: ANAYA
PHOTO CREDIT | Fashion Network
Dubai Fashion Week (DFW) kicked off Fashion Month. Known as the region’s definitive fashion fixture co-founded by Dubai Design District (d3) and Arab Fashion Council (AFC), continued their second day of shows.
Anaya’s "La Nuit" collection made bold statements with their tailoring and modern-day power-woman looks! The inspiration came from postwar glam of the 1950s with icons like Dovima, Audrey Hepburn. Typically this brand is known to lean towards pastels but a number of the pieces shown in this collection were monochramtic featuring black, ff-white, nudes, botanical greens, and vibrant reds. The draping, corsets, lace, exaggerated sleeves, and more allowed us to be transported.
See the full presentation here.
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DUBAI FASHION WEEK FW24/25 | DAY 2: MRS. KEEPA X SOTHEBY'S
PHOTO CREDIT | Fashion Network
Dubai Fashion Week (DFW) kicked off Fashion Month. Known as the region’s definitive fashion fixture co-founded by Dubai Design District (d3) and Arab Fashion Council (AFC), continued with their second day of shows.
DFW Member Mrs. Keepa celebrated the launch of the eponymous Mrs. Keepa Studio-Couture SS 24 collection in collaboration with the renowned auction house Sotheby’s Dubai. The ‘Inhale Collection’ featured avant-garde designs inspired by the shapes, textures, and movements of underwater creatures, from ethereal Sea Lilies to the fluid dance of Sea Nettles, and explores the theme of escapism.
See the full presentation here.
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DUBAI FASHION WEEK FW24/25 | DAY 1: RIZMAN RUZAINI
PHOTO CREDIT | Kendam
Dubai Fashion Week (DFW) kicked off Fashion Month. Known as the region’s definitive fashion fixture co-founded by Dubai Design District (d3) and Arab Fashion Council (AFC), they opened last night with Rizman Ruzaini’s show.
We loved the merge of opulence meets modernity that hit the runway! The collection paid homage to Mughal Empire's grandeur, drawing inspiration from Empress Mehrunissa's timeless elegance. The runway showcased 61 meticulously crafted pieces, each a harmonious fusion of traditional cuts and contemporary twists, reflecting the brand's identity. With dhotis, kurtas, sherwani-salwar, and kurta-pajamas, the collection skillfully infuses these classics with a modern twist, embodying the distinctive identity of Rizman Ruzaini. The accessories that were showcased includes brooches, belts, and phenomenal exquisite neck adornments as well. The color palette had metallics of gold, bronze, silver, irridescent blue, and the house’s signature black. Fabrications of lame, sequined tweed, gossamer liquid satin, and custom mesh tulle was also presented.
You can see the full runway show.
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