Earlier this year we had the pleasure of interviewing Chef Dominique Ansel as we talked about his partnership with Honey Bunches of Oats as well as his noted Dominique Ansel Bakeries that are here in NYC as well as in Las Vegas! He is know for his phenomenal creations and now that Papa D'Amour opened a few weeks ago we wanted to talk about his latest concept, how it came about, and more! We also had an incredible time having a 9TASTING of some of the unique and satisfying treats that are sweet and savory located in Greenwich Village.
ATHLEISURE MAG: It’s so good to see you again!
CHEF DOMINIQUE ANSEL: It’s so good to see you again. How are you?
AM: We're good!
So, what is the thought behind this latest concept? I'm so excited that you're able to now be able to fully tell us about it!
CHEF DA: We live in New York City. It’s the most eclectic city in the world! I’m French obviously, I came from France and I met my wife in NY, she’s from Taiwan. Our kids are born here, they grew up here and of course, they are Americans. They have the culture here and they are also growing up in the culture that we share together. So our family celebrates lots of different holidays that are Chinese, French, American!
AM: Oh yeah!
CHEF DA: It’s a lot of different holidays so it’s amazing to be able to teach them about our different cultures and what they are like. That’s how this concept came about.
At home, we’re eating all kinds of foods - Asian, French it’s all diverse. We want to expose them to all of that and we’re glad that our kids can learn all about it.
AM: That’s amazing and such a great foundation for them.
You're known as someone who's always creating and being innovative. What are the synergies between French pastry and Asian breads?
CHEF DA: It’s all about the culture and the tradition of food. That is the most important thing to me. There are a lot of French techniques that we do here. There’s a lot of Asian inspired flavors and traditions of how we eat things. It’s a mix of cultures and not so much a mix of ingredients.
AM: Wow!
And what are the spices and ingredients that are indicative of Taiwanese Cuisine that you've implemented into this menu?
CHEF DA: I think it's more like scallions, hot dogs, and rice. There’s a mochi donut and there are a lot of things that are a nostalgia to the Asian community in terms of Asian preference of bread. That overlaps with the French.
AM: Your menu here doesn't have any repeats from your other restaurants. So, what was the process like in making this menu, and how do you achieve that balance between what you're offering is?
CHEF DA: Well, it was very challenging first of all!
AM: We would assume that!
CHEF DA: So you don't want to be too French and you don't want lean into being too Asian so we’re right in between, right in the middle. It's something new and it’s something fresh in terms of the idea. We wanted to make sure that we are telling the stories behind each of the creations.
AM: Right.
CHEF DA: The process was long, it took us about a year to work through all of these ideas from the concept, to the testing, to the execution. We wanted to make sure that everything that is available and that you receive, each one of them has a reason to be and that it has a message to pass on.
AM: That is such a thoughtful approach to this concept!
In terms of seasonality, what are flavors that we can expect as we continue to navigate the Summer and then as we go into the Fall?
CHEF DA: Well it’s always the same for me. I love fresh fruits in the Summer and I always like nuts and chocolate towards the Winter. So the menu right now is still the same because we just opened a few weeks ago. But there will definitely be some changes in the Fall!
AM: It will be interesting to see what that will be!
So when it comes to introducing new ingredients or spices into the menu, what do you look at?
CHEF DA: The most important thing for me is the culture, looking at traditions, or even childhood memories. Those elements are not always so much in regular ingredients. But it’s also how you eat food as well.
AM: Right.
CHEF DA: For example, we have Scallion Bread and the tradition of eating it in Taiwan, is the you hold it and you fluff the bread. So you see that motion in your hands that makes the dish lighter. So we have a pastry that resembles a little bit of this. So it’s a cultural thing and that’s what it is for me more than anything else!
AM: When you're not at your restaurants or creating concepts – we know that you do a lot and are so busy. How do you spend time just for yourself?
CHEF DA: I spend it all with my kids! They keep me very busy and I’m very happy about it!
AM: Well Chef, we appreciate you talking with us and sharing more about Papa D’Amour as well as answering our questions for our series THE 9LIST 9M3NU again as well as 9CH3F ROUTIN3S! We’re really looking forward to tasting your creations and showcasing this with 9TASTING which we'll share soon! We have truly enjoyed finding out the storytelling behind the dishes you create!
CHEF DA: Thank you!
PAUL FARKAS: It’s amazing that you came up with this menu all within a year!
CHEF DA: It’s challenging and it’s risky too! It’s brand new and it’s small.
PF: I was going to ask, in terms of Taiwanese cuisine, are there restaurants that are here in NY?
CHEF DA: There are a few, but there are some that are a gem! There is one that I go to where every single dish is like wow! It’s so delicious and so simple! My wife and I were there and there is just this seasoning that is in the wok because they don’t really wash it so it’s just rinsed off. So you have those layers of rich flavor, spices, soy sauce, and various oils and so when you’re eating there everything has a bit of that flavorful mix because of the wok. It’s strange, but it’s really good!
PHOTOGRAPHY CREDITS | Paul Farkas
Read the JUL ISSUE #115 of Athleisure Mag and see SWEET & SAVORY | Chef Dominique Ansel in mag.