We’ve hit those really cold temperatures so comfort food that is vibrant to your taste buds and the eye are an essential! In this month’s issue, The Art of the Snack taks us to DC to Daru where we enjoy cuisine from India and Nepal. Chef/Owner Suresh Sundas talks about this restaurant which has received a Michelin Bib Gourmand for the 4th year in a row as well as a James Beard Semifinalist nomination. We wanted to know more about the restaurant and what we should enjoy when we come in for our next visit!
ATHLEISURE MAG: Before we delve into Daru, tell us about your culinary background, kitchens you trained in and why you wanted to create Daru?
CHEF SURESH SUNDAS: I am originally from Morang in Eastern Nepal. After moving to the U.S., I worked throughout the DC dining scene, including roles at Rasika West End and Maydan. I met Dante Datta at Rasika in 2012, and we spent years dreaming of a neighborhood restaurant where I could honor my Nepalese and Indian roots through a playful, unexpected lens.
AM: What does Daru mean?
CHEF SS: Daru is Hindi for moonshine—specifically “desi daru,” a traditional beverage made from molasses. While we originally envisioned Daru as a cocktail bar, we kept the name when it evolved into a restaurant because it captures our spirited, creative nature.
AM: What cuisine can guests enjoy here and what are the ingredients and spices that are indicative of this?
CHEF SS: We describe our cuisine as “Indian-ish”—traditional Indian and Nepalese techniques inspired by global influences. We use foundational spices like garam masala, turmeric, cardamom, and fenugreek alongside timur (Sichuan peppercorn sourced directly from Nepal). We use high-quality, often unexpected ingredients like Thai green chiles, fermented black garlic, blue cheese, and burrata.
AM: What is the ambiance of Daru?
CHEF SS: Located in the historic Star Grocery building, Daru features 40 seats centered around a vibrant bar. The atmosphere is intimate, warm, and energetic—offering the polish of fine dining with the comfort of a favorite neighborhood spot.
AM: In looking at the menu, you have it broken out into various categories including Snacks! What are 3 that you suggest?
CHEF SS: I suggest, Bison Momo: Nepalese-style bison dumplings with timur peppercorn and Szechuan tomato chutney, Dahi Puri: A refreshing, classic bite, and Reshmi Kebab with Blue Cheese: Tender chicken with cashew paste and sour cherry chutney.
AM: What are 3 Mains that you suggest that we should enjoy?
CHEF SS: You should try, Nariyal Lamb Shank: A robust dish in Kashmiri chili-coconut curry with saffron, Chicken Tikka Masala: Made with fermented black garlic paste and Thai green chiles for depth, and Striped Bass Paturi: Bengali-style fish wrapped in banana leaf with makrut lime, and coconut.
AM: In terms of Sides, what are 3 that we should consider?
CHEF SS: To accompany your meal the Black Daal Burrata: Our signature dish featuring burrata melting into spicy black dal, Eggplant Bharta: Smoky, fire-roasted eggplant mashed with aromatic spices, onions, tomato, and coconut milk, and Wok-Fried Cabbage: Crispy, charred cabbage tossed with bold Indian spices, and timur pepper in a hot wok.
AM: For Breads/Extras, what are 3 we should try?
CHEF SS: Herb Laccha Paratha: Ideal for pairing with our curries, Zaatar Olive Naan: A blend of traditional naan and Middle Eastern flavors, and Chutney Platter: an assortment for chutneys, Tomato- Sichuan, Tamarind, Mint, Achar (Mango Pickle), and a Habanero Kashmiri Chili Hot Sauce.
AM: What are 3 Winter cocktails we should try?
CHEF SS: Our Winter cocktails you should try are our Chai-tini: A dessert-like rum cocktail with warm chai spices, Bandit Queen: A Boulevardier with garam masala-infused rum and Sichuan peppercorn amaro, and Divine Contraband: an old fashioned riff using bourbon fat washed with cashew butter, golden raisins, and a touch of palo cortado sherry.
AM: What are 3 mocktails we should try?
CHEF SS: Acid-Adjust Carrot, Garam Masala, Soda (Carrot infused n/a margarita), Love and Demons: Zero-Rum, Hibiscus, Lemon,Tulsi Tea, Ginger Beer, Mint ( Collins style drink with indian herbal tulsi tea), Seasonal Lassis: Fresh fruit and spice combinations that change throughout the year. (pear/mango and peach/ Blueberry Cardamom).
AM: Are there any upcoming events we should know about?
CHEF SS: Our Cielo Rojo Dinner!
AM: Daru has received for a 4th year in a row, the Michelin Bib Gourmand (2022 - 2025) what does it mean to you?
CHEF SS: This recognition validates our goal of providing high-quality, high-value cooking in a neighborhood setting. Retaining this distinction since our opening year proves we are successfully honoring tradition while pushing creative boundaries.
AM: You personally just received a nomination for 2026 James Beard Semifinalist for Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic - what does this distinction mean to you?
CHEF SS: This honor recognizes our entire team’s dedication. It motivates me to stay connected to my roots while continuing to evolve and create dishes that surprise our guests.
IG @daru.dc
PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY | Calvin Kim
Read the JAN ISSUE #121 of Athleisure Mag and see THE ART OF THE SNACK | Daru in mag.
