THE ART OF THE SNACK | KINTSUGI OMAKASE

This month, we made our way to Kintsugi Omakase to have an epic meal that we will talk about for quite a bit! We knew that there would be a number of courses that would be created in front of us by Chef Victor Chen who was in last month's issue in our THE 9LIST 9M3NU feature.

Our meal didn't disappoint! We were able to enjoy a 16-course meal that is part of their Kintsugi Experience. It's a fantastic experience where upon entering the restaurant, you are sitting with 9 other guests who have a front row seat at a meal that is next level. We wanted to know more about when the restaurant launched, why they provide omakase, and what you can expect when it comes to heading to this SoHo destination!

ATHLEISURE MAG: When did Kintsugi launch and can you tell us about the founders/owners of the restaurant?

ASHE YEUNG: Kintsugi was originally founded in 2018 by owners and New York-based creative partners, Ashe Yeung, an architect, and Tim Madrid, an Art Director.

AM: Can you tell us about the chef as well and his background?

AY: Executive Chef Victor Chen, formerly of New York Sushi Ko & Sushi Seki, is a passionate sushi chef that prepares his sushi in the traditional edomae style. Unlike many other sushi chefs, he does not solely use Japanese ingredients. A long-standing relationship with fishmongers allows Kintsugi Omakase to offer locally sourced fish, enabling for a broader selection and more moderate prices.

AM: Can you tell us about the ambiance of the restaurant and what guests can expect when they come in for a visit?

AY: The dining room is centered around a natural wood 10-seat sushi counter, which is framed by dark charcoal walls. Soothing light is filtered through Japanese wooden slats creating a relaxing mood for guests. Each course is presented on dinnerware in collaboration with EM Ceramics and Spark Bird Studio who has created an exclusive line of handcrafted, gold-fused dinnerware for Kintsugi.

AM: We know what omakase is, but can you tell us the history of what this dining experience is?

AY: Omakase, rooted in Japanese culinary tradition, traces its origins to the Edomae sushi culture of early 19th-century in Tokyo. Initially, it is referred to entrusting the chef to create a meal based on seasonal ingredients. Over time, omakase has evolved into a revered dining experience where patrons place complete trust in the chef's expertise and creativity, highlighting the essence of Japanese culinary craftsmanship.

AM: You only offer omakase. Why was that the experience that you wanted to focus on?

AY: Omakase represents the pinnacle of our culinary philosophy, emphasizing quality, seasonality, and the art of storytelling through food. By exclusively offering omakase, we curate a deeply personal and memorable dining journey for each guest, showcasing the freshest ingredients and innovative techniques that define a culinary vision. It allows us to foster a direct connection with diners, sharing not just a meal, but a transformative gastronomic experience that celebrates tradition with a modern touch.

AM: For those that are coming for lunch, what can you tell us about The Lunch Rush Omakase?

AY: The Lunch Rush Omakase is a combination of a quick sushi fix with a high quality offering and also serves as an introduction to omakase for those who have never tried. Our Lunch Rush Omakase is a 12-course one-hour experience for $60. It is served only on Friday, Saturday and Sunday. We always promote the art of omakase and it is key for us to have an omakase with an affordable price tag.

AM: For dinner, you offer The Grand Street Classic, The SoHo Experience, and the Kintsugi Omakase - the latter which we enjoyed this recently. Can you tell us about each one of those and what the differences are between them?

AY: We serve three tiers of premium omakase which include seasonal appetizers and sushi: The Kintsugi Omakase, a 16-course service for $195; The Soho Experience; a 13-course experience for $155; and The Grand Street Classic; a 10-course meal for $95. All tastings also include a sushi chef’s choice of hand roll, gourmet miso soup, tamago, and seasonal dessert. Each tier features a varied amount of seasonal and premium ingredients diligently prepared by our chef. Our goal is to be able to cater to as many customer as possible and feature different offerings with the same high quality standards.

AM: Are there additional items that you can pair with these packages?

AY: We offer a seasonal beverage pairing featuring sake breweries that are high quality and paired perfectly with our omakase. We also do a seasonal sea urchin (uni) tasting that showcases different sea urchins from around the world; and from time to time, we offer prized auction grade uni.

AM: Can you tell us about 3 cocktails that you suggest that we should have on our next visit?

AY: We only have one cocktail called Murasaki, which in Japanese means purple. The cocktail itself is a beautiful vibrant purple color made with yuzu, sake and violet extract.

AM: Can you tell us about 3 sakes, beers, or cider that we should pair with our meal?

AY: We are a big fan of Echigo Koshihikari beer, which used the same rice that most sushi restaurants use as the basis of their beer, perfectly paired with our omakase. We are also avid enthusiasts of the Masumi brewery. Masumi is one of Japan's premier sake brands, produced by Miyasaka Brewing Company in Nagano Prefecturel they have been making sake since 1662. For a more modern flavor profile, we highly recommend the uka sake series. They are made very well with a combination of Japanese and American crafts into one single bottle

AM: Are there any special events taking place this summer or fall that you would like us to know about?

AY: We will be participating in the NYC Restaurant Week with the NYC Tourism Board. Our goal is to promote the craft of omakase from now to September 1st. We will be taking a short break after September 1st and will re-open on September 12th. Then, we will be transitioning into our fall menu, which to all edomae style sushi lovers, it is the best season where all the fish are fragrant, fatty, and simply delicious. We highly recommend all patrons to book ahead of time to make sure that they can save a seat.

For those that want to try Kintsugi Omakase, Restaurant Week kicked off Jul 22nd and goes through Aug 18th with participating restaurants. The below is available until Sep 1st. Kintsugi will offer a 12-course prix fixe menu for $60 per person with an optional seasonal sake flight for an additional $30 per person. Guests can add-on a premium seasonal uni handroll for $30 per person. The menu is subject to change due to availability and seasonality, highlights include their Housemade Japanese Potato Salad with Arctic Sweet Shrimp, Orata/Seabream from Greece, and Hotate/Scallop from Hokkaido Japan - to name a few.

IG @kintsuginyc

PHOTOGRAPHY CREDIT | Mr. Grant Hao-Wei Lin/Kintsugi

Read the JUL ISSUE #103 of Athleisure Mag and see THE ART OF THE SNACK Kintsugi Omakase in mag.

THE ART OF THE SNACK | MISHIK

In month's The Art of the Snack we make our way to Hudson Square in Lower Manhattan where the West Village, SoHo, and Tribeca surround it! We find out more about Mishik's Modern Japanese and Edomae-style sushi omakase, their dishes, and what one can expect when enterting this culinary destination! We sat down with David Kim, Owner of Mishik as well as their Executive Chef/Partner Markee Manaloto to find out more.

ATHLEISURE MAG: What is the meaning behind the name, Mishik?

DAVID KIM: Mishik can encompass various meanings in Korean depending on context, but it generally translates as “beautiful food” or “delicacies.” While fine dining may be associated with formality and high cost, it doesn’t have to be. My aim is to provide guests with the opportunity to savor high-quality cuisine at an accessible price point, within a setting that strikes a balance between informal and formal. What we want to provide for our guests is exquisite food prepared with highest quality ingredients and classic techniques that date back to the Edo period in Japan such as aging of fish combined with our omakase counter experience that doesn't involve complete silence or an overly stuffy environment.

AM: Located in Hudson Square, when did this restaurant launch and why did you want to be in this neighborhood?

DK: Our grand opening was in January 2024. Hudson Square, sitting between the busy Soho and Tribeca neighborhoods, is an up-and-coming area with lots of new developments. I want Mishik to be one of Hudson Square’s top go-to restaurants.

AM: Tell us about Studio Rolling as we love how they create interiors for restaurants as we enjoyed their work in Hortus NYC during Food Network's NYC Food Wine Festival. What was the design approach to Mishik and can you walk us through what guests can expect in terms of its ambiance or where they can sit either at the sushi counter, the dining room, or at the 13-seat bar?

DK: The space was a bit tricky to work with as it was a former burger joint, so we started redesigning from the ground up. I wanted to offer our guests a unique sushi counter experience for omakase as well as an exceptional bar featuring great cocktails and unique wines and sakes. The final design that Youngmi from Studio Rolling and I came up with struck a balance between relaxed and trendy, intimate and aesthetically pleasing. We aim to be a great addition to this beautiful neighborhood.

AM: Our readers have heard us share a number of restaurants that utilize omakase, but what is Edomae-style sushi omakase?

EXECUTIVE CHEF MARKEE MANALOTO: Edo was the old name for Tokyo during a time of great change in Japan from the 17th to 19th centuries. Edomae-style sushi was born during this time, and the techniques have been passed down through the generations. It involves butchering fish humanely, the ikejime way, scaling it precisely with a knife to not damage the meat, the sukibiki way, aging or curing the fish and then serving it over rice seasoned with vinegar.

AM: As Executive Chef/Partner Markee Manaloto, can you tell us about where you trained and kitchens you worked in prior to being involved at Mishik as we know that you were an Omakase Chef at both Michelin - starred Sushi Yasuda and Kissaki.

EXECUTIVE CHEF MM: Prior to Mishik I was the chef partner at Gugu Room, a Japanese-Filipino izakaya restaurant in New York City. Before that I was an omakase chef at Michelin-starred Sushi Yasuda and Kissaki Omakase. I started my career in Michigan, working under chefs who defined the traditional sushi scene in the Midwest. My last mentor there before moving to New York was Chef Lloyd Roberts, who went on to open Nobu 57 and was one of Nobu Matsuhisa’s first executives to travel the world.

AM: Why did you want to be involved in Mishik?

EXECUTIVE CHEF MM: David and I both wanted to shakeup the omakase game in New York City by adding a more robust tasting menu and a la carte options. It feels like there are hundreds of omakase bars in the city that just do counter service, but having a kitchen to also produce plated dishes, flavorful sauces and detailed garnishes is where we really get to showcase our creativity. Joining Mishik has also allowed me to introduce dry-aged fish to customers, an under-used technique that really brings out the flavor and texture of fish. Being able to offer the purist form of sushi alongside progressive dishes and techniques is like having the best of both worlds.

AM: Guests who come to Mishik have the option for Edomae-style sushi omakase, chef's tasting, and a la carte options. Why was this approach that you wanted to make available in terms of the menu?

EXECUTIVE CHEF MM: We visualized Mishik as modern, all-around Japanese dining experience, which includes an omakase counter but also features a dining room with a la carte and tasting menu options. This gives me an opportunity to rotate the menu with new dishes and highlight seasonal ingredients. Plus, blending traditional Japanese ingredients with modern techniques is really exciting and offers something new to customers.

AM: Tell us about your 2 omakase options and walk us through this particular portion of the menu.

EXECUTIVE CHEF MM: We have two omakase options, 12 or 16 pieces of nigiri with a traditional handroll, soup and dessert to finish. These two options are only available at the omakase counter. It gives me an opportunity to explain to guests how we dry-age all the fish in-house to enhance the texture and flavor of each bite. This process of meticulously cleaning and then hang-drying the fish in-house really makes a difference in the final product.

AM: Tell us about the Chef's Tasting Menu which is a 7-course meal.

EXECUTIVE CHEF MM: The seven-course tasting menu highlights the best of Japanese cuisine and goes beyond sushi. It starts with Scallop Sashimi with Asian pear, crispy shitake mushrooms and truffle ponzu, followed by a Donburi rice bowl with tuna tartar and jidori egg yolk, then Yakizakana fish of the day with broccolini, yuzu hollandaise and shishito kosho (we use dry-aged fish in this dish as well); six pieces of Nigiri Sushi highlighting seasonal fish and seafood from Japan such as goldeneye snapper (kinmedai), black throat sea perch (nodoguro), rockfish (kinki), tuna, and uni. Then Yakiniku 6-hour koji-marinated steak with black truffle emulsion and choux farci; Dashi white miso and fish-bone based broth, and dessert that includes the prized Japanese crown melon. The tasting menu is the best way to experience Mishik. The fish changes based on season and what’s fresh from the market, which is another reason why I recommend the tasting menu, since it means guests get to try something different every time.

AM: For the a la carte menu, what are 3 dishes that you suggest that we should have our eye on when we come in to dine?

EXECUTIVE CHEF MM: The a la carte menu offers modern Japanese dining experience: dry-aged fish like Nodoguro (black throat sea perch) with tomato dashi cream and braised king trumpet mushrooms; King Crab Legs with ginger aioli; A5 Wagyu beef; and a stunning Kegani Donabe for Two, an elegant rice pot with Hokkaido hairy crab, uni, ikura, scallops, lotus root, maitake mushrooms, and edamame that can be shared by the table.

AM: For those who are interested in a salad or a rice bowl, what are 3 that we should have our eye on for our next visit?

EXECUTIVE CHEF MM: The rice bowls really allow us to explore different techniques and culinary influences. The Uni Bibimbap with nori puree and the A5 Wagyu Kimchi Fried Rice are exciting marriage of Japanese and Korean cuisine. If you want to go all out with a rice bowl, then try the Kegani Donabe for Two, a showstopping rice pot loaded with seafood, mushrooms and more delicious flavors that makes for a great date night dinner.

AM: What are 3 pieces of sushi that you suggest?

EXECUTIVE CHEF MM: Our nigiri sushi changes seasonally but if you see goldeneye snapper (kinmedai), black throat sea perch (nodoguro) or rockfish (kinki) on the menu, they are fantastic and not as common as tuna or uni (though they are delicious too). We also offer a selection of temaki (hand rolls) and makimono (sushi rolls).

AM: For sides, what are 3 that would be great to enjoy with our meal?

EXECUTIVE CHEF MM: Ankimo (monkfish liver) is considered a delicacy — it’s like the foie gras of the sea. We serve it fried in tempura batter, and it makes an excellent accompaniment to anyone’s meal. If guests are looking for something lighter, then I’d suggest the refreshing hiyashi wakame seaweed salad. A la carte sushi and sashimi options also make for great sides if guests just want an extra bite or two at the end of their meal.

AM: We love a great beverage program, we'd love to know what are 3 signature cocktails that we should have in mind when dining with friends and family?

DK: I feel like the cocktail scene has dramatically changed in the past few years, where in the past drinks were usually simple with just three elements: your spirit, a balancing agent, and a modifier. Nowadays, there is so much more technique and creation involved. The classics will always remain, but we have a great cocktail program that we created with some very talented people. I would personally recommend the Genmai Espresso Martini, Bergamot Tea, Kuri Tai, and the Shiso. I know you said three, but we have so many good cocktails!

AM: What are 3 sake's that we should consider?

DK: This is a tricky question. Everyone's palate is different, and just like someone might prefer a pinot noir over a cabernet, sake is the same. My personal favorites at the moment are Dewazakura Yukimanman, which is a sake that has been aged for five years; Hakkaisan Yukimuro Snow, aged three years; and I usually don't gear towards fruit flavored sake but we have a beautiful Yuzu Sake by Masumi. 

AM: We love a great beverage program and we know that you consulted with sommelier Doreen Winkler, what are 3 wines that would be great to pair with our meal?

DK: Doreen has been really great for us. She is well versed in different wines, especially skin contact wines.  We offer a variety of wines but right now my personal favorites would be the Grape Republic "Anfora," a fantastic red wine from Yamagata in Japan, as well as Karine Lauverjat Pouilly Fume and Patrick Piuze "Terroir" Chablis.

AM: For those who enjoy a great beer, what are 3 that you suggest?

DK: Orion pairs really well with any Japanese cuisine.  We also have a Kyoto Matcha IPA, and for the ale lovers I'd recommend Lucky Cat White Ale. Both are from Kizakura Brewery.

AM: Are there any upcoming events that we should know about that Mishik will be involved in?

DK: We will be participating in the upcoming Joy of Sake event in NYC on Aprill 11!

IG @mishiknyc

PHOTO CREDIT | Michael Tulipan

Read the MAR ISSUE #99 of Athleisure Mag and see THE ART OF THE SNACK | Mishik in mag.

THE ART OF THE SNACK | TSUBAME

As we end the year, we find that we tend to enjoy going out just a bit more! It's the perfect way to eat at places that we enjoy coming back to again and again as well as to try something entirely new that we feel will be in our rotation for years to come!

Located in Tribeca, Tsubame is a Kaiseki Inspired Omakase. We sat down with Chef/Owner Jay Zheng who talks about the recently launched restaurant that will allow our tastebuds to be truly transported with each bite that we enjoy of their menu.

He shares his culinary background, why he opened this restaurant, the menu's focus as well as walking us through what we can expect when we make our next reservation for one of the two seatings that they have available for dinner.

ATHLEISURE MAG: When did Tsubame launch?

CHEF JAY ZHENG: Tsubame opened its doors on August 29, 2023

AM: Can you tell me about your culinary background? Where did you train and what kitchens you worked in prior to opening Tsubame?

CHEF JZ: Born in rural China, my family grew up under very humble beginnings. In search of a more prosperous future, my father emigrated our family to the United States Midwest when I was 7, where I was first introduced to a kitchen in my family’s new restaurant at the time. Humbly, the restaurant took off, and around my early teenage years, my father took our family on frequent visits to Japan where I gained extensive knowledge of culinary tradition and culture. I quickly fell in love. Since, I had a stint at the Peninsula Hotel in Chicago.

AM: What was the reason and vision behind Tsubame?

CHEF JZ: Initially, I opened my first restaurant in Indiana in 2012, but authentic Japanese cuisine was less appreciated in the area than I had hoped. After 4 years, in 2016, I was fortunate enough to move to New York City, where I opened Gaijin, an upscale sushi restaurant in Astoria, Queens, which I relaunched as Kōyō after the pandemic. While this restaurant was a success, I always had my heart set on opening a location in Manhattan, so when I found the location in Tribeca for Tsubame, I jumped on the opportunity. The name, Tsubame, comes from a barn swallow that nested in my childhood village during the spring.

AM: Tsubame is a kaiseki-inspired omakase restaurant. Many of our readers are familiar with omakase, but can you tell us about what kaiseki is and how that connects with an omakase experience?

CHEF JZ: In Japan, Kaiseki refers to a traditional multi-course meal, crafted from the finest seasonal ingredients. It is characterized by extreme sophistication of taste and appearance, carefully selected ingredients, and meticulous attention to the arrangement of the vessels and space. The world of kaiseki is a very deep world involving the concept of wabi-sabi and the five yin-yang elements. At Tsubame, we employ the Japanese culinary concept of Shun for our kaiseki-inspired progression, using ingredients at their prime seasonal freshness, making each offering both the best-tasting and most visually appealing. This is central to my omakase preparation because I believe omakase is more than just a dining experience, but also a sensory one as well.

AM: How does one become a kaiseki master?

CHEF JZ: You must be trained in true Kaiseki restaurants for years to become a master, which not many exist outside of Japan. There are no shortcuts to becoming a master.

AM: For those that are coming to Tsubame, can you tell us about the ambiance and the space?

CHEF JZ: The interior was designed by AESAM based in Hong Kong in a minimalist fashion with blonde wood and a white textured wall that is inset and backlit to set a very relaxed mood. The tasting counter is lined with very comfortable high, black velvet barstools trimmed in gold. At the entrance are handblown white glass birds to evoke the restaurant’s namesake. While the interior is clean and comfortable, we wanted to avoid the over-the-top flashiness so we could let the ingredients and dishes shine instead.

AM: With only 10 seats for diners, how many sittings are available each night?

CHEF JZ: 2 seatings, at 5:30 p.m. and 8 p.m. from Tuesday to Saturday.

AM: Can you walk us through each portion of the seasonal menu which is 8 courses?

CHEF JZ: Our menu rotates quite often as our menu is based on seasonal freshness, but recently, here are some of the dishes we’ve had.

Sakizuke – the amuse bouche – launches the meal. My Shiroebi Uni Shokupan is a big opener, housemade milk bread layered raw baby shrimp from Toyama and vivid uni from Hokkaido, garnished with shiso flowers. Luxuriously creative, it sets a tone for the meal that follows.

Hassun, meaning “eight inches” is a collection of small bites served on miniature dining pedestals and marks the menu as an evocation of the season establishing my range as a chef. Eaten from right to left, the dishes are: Tako, Hokkaido octopus tentacle slow braised for four hours with daikon and served with wasabi, is pure Japanese country; Caviar Shiso Potato Pave heaps rich, briny Ossetra caviar atop a crispy scalloped potato and garnished with citrusy sansho pepper that gives the dish a Tokyo-meets-Paris sophistication; Toro Gobo Tart combines raw bluefin tuna, crisped gobo (burdock root) and torched rakkyo (pickled onion) in a rice paper wafer.

Yakimono, in more traditional fashion, is a grilled fish course. Japanese Amadai (tilefish) is crisped yubiki style with hot oil before it is finished on a binchotan grill, served with house made negi shoyu (green onion and soy sauce) over baby corn.

The Mushimono that follows features Dungeness crab, and nagaimo (mountain yam), layered in an egg custard that is finished a slurry of kudzu and shaved black truffles. It’s a worldly New Yorker’s take on Chawanmushi.

Futamono (lidded dish) is A5 Miyazaki Wagyu Shabu Shabu with udon made of pressed sawara (Spanish mackerel), in awase dashi, is a tribute to Chef’s family fish noodle. It is accompanied by a jidori egg in sweet shoyu (soy sauce) for dipping.

The entrée is Gohan, a rice course served in two different sets beginning with a nigiri progression and ending with a small rice bowl. For his nigiri, chef favors a fluffy, lightly seasoned blend of two grains of koshihikari rice, Tsubame will serve seven to eight piece of nigiri for each seating, which may include: ten day aged Shima aji (striped jack); Kinmedai (golden eye snapper) from Chiba; Barracuda from Kamasu; lightly cured Iwashi (sardine); Aji (horse mackerel) from Oita; Toro (tuna) from Spain; and Muki Hotate (scallop) from Miyagi. The proceeding rice bowl is composed of Uni from Hokkaido and Ossetra caviar over koshihikari rice.

The experience concludes with Mizumono, two light seasonal desserts. The first is a light serving of Hojicha Custard topped with bruléed seasonal fruits. As it is customary to end a kaiseki meal with tea, Tsubame serves ceremonial Uji Matcha Green tea from Kyoto with seasonal fruit.

AM: Tell me about your beverage program and pairings that you suggest with this meal?

CHEF JZ: We offer a sake program, sourced from World Sake Imports, including rarities, as well as a selection of Japanese beers and teas. I would suggest Sake to be paired with the experience, as it’s most traditional and pairs excellently with the flavors of the fish.

AM: As we're in the holiday season, can you tell us about what Tsubame's NYE and NYD plans are?

CHEF JZ: We will be open for New Year’s Eve under normal operating hours, one seating at 5:30 p.m. and another at 8 p.m. It’s a perfect destination to ring in the New Year with a luxurious date night, or simply for a great meal.

IG @tsubameny

PHOTOS COURTESY | Tsubame

Read the DEC ISSUE #96 of Athleisure Mag and see THE ART OF THE SNACK | Tsubame in mag.

ATHLEISURE LIST | TSUTA DUMBO

We're heading to DUMBO for ramen at Tsuta! In Japan, ramen has always been known to be a comfort food. Attaining a Michelin star proved that a comfort dish like ramen can be elevated with depth and finesse. 10 years ago, Yuki Onishi opened this restaurant in Japan with a vision to create original and innovative ramen for everyone to enjoy. The DUMBO location is the only one in the US and opened in November 2022.

This location offers the 2 signature truffle ramens from the original Michelin-starred Tsuta in Tokyo. Each is based on Onishi's recipes and philosophy of using only fresh, high-quality ingredients like an artisanal shoyu (Japanese soy sauce), premium bamboo shoots, locally raised Asian breed chicken, Kuributa and Iberico pork and no MSG or preservatives. The Original Truffle Shoyu Soba (soy sauce broth) is made with custom-brewed shoyu from Wakayama Prefecture and Tsuta's dashi, and finished with Kurobuta pork chashu and black truffle paste. This is one of their signature bowls and best sellers that showcases the depth and complexity of flavors that go into their signature ramen.

The Original Truffle Shio Soba (light salt broth) has a dashi base of Okinawan sea salt, Mongolian rock salt, and subtle while truffle oil, and toppings like red onion, green olive sauce, spearmint, along with elevated versions of the more typical white leek, bamboo shoots and Kurobuta chashu or Iberico chashu.

We also suggest The Spicy Mala Tonkotsu which is 1 of 2 pork broth ramens, which are cooked over 8 hours, resulting in a rich creamy broth. This one is Sichuan-inspired and features house-made mala oil (Sichuan peppercorns, cinnamon, star anise, dried chili flakes) for a spicy kick.

The Miso Vegetarian Soba is unique to NY and is made with 2 vegetarian broths - includes various veggies and and a mushroom broth. It also has a blend of red and white miso.

Tsuta's signature broth (dashi) is made of 3 stocks: chicken, fish and clam, each cooked separately then briefly simmered together before serving to bring out the depth of flavors.

We suggest, pairing this with a Brooklyn Kura Blue Door Junami Ginjo and the Chibi Zumo "Little Sumo" Sumo" Junmai Genshu. Their Amabuki Cup Sake series is delicious.

TSUTA DUMBO

22 Old Fulton St

Brooklyn, NY 11201

IG @tsutaus

PHOTO CREDITS | Michael Tulipan

Read the JAN ISSUE #85 of Athleisure Mag and see ATHLEISURE LIST | Tsuta Dumbo in mag.

THE ART OF THE SNACK | SUSHI GINZA ONODERA

As we begin to transition from the summer to the fall season, we have new restaurants that are launching as well those that are reopening as we continue to emerge from the pandemic. We chat with the new Head Sushi Chef Takuya Kubo of Sushi Ginza Onodera.

ATHLEISURE MAG: Tell us about your culinary background and how it led to you to Sushi Ginza Onodera.

HEAD SUSHI CHEF TAKUYA KUBO: After I graduated from high school, I worked at Sushi Dai Akasaka Keizan in Tokyo, Japan, which is considered one of the best in Japan and internationally acclaimed. I spent five years there before moving to another sushi restaurant, then, after 2 years, to yet another in Roppongi in Tokyo to continue to learn and gain experience. After that, I returned to Sushi Dai as the executive chef and worked there for 10 years. By then I thought that after having worked in Japan for many years, I would like to try my sushi skills in other countries, especially the U.S. I decided to challenge myself and went to Los Angeles, where I found Sushi Ginza Onodera, and started to work there, later becoming the executive chef at Sushi Ginza Onodera in Honolulu, Hawaii. After about two years there, I came to New York City to reopen the restaurant here – it had been closed for a year during the pandemic. We reopened for service in late March 2021.

AM: When guests come in for lunch, what are 3 options from the menu that you suggest?

HSC TK: We have three lunch menu options at $100, $150 and $200. Each omakase is a little different and meant to provide an experience the guests are looking for. For example, for guests who would like to focus on Nigiri sushi, the $150 menu is the best option as it offers the most Nigiri pieces. But for those would like to enjoy a fuller, more elevated experience, the $200 menu is the way to go.

AM: For your omakase only dinner menu, can you share why you only offer this and what it is for those that may not have experienced this?

HSC TK: An omakase tasting menu is the best way to experience seasonal ingredients in peak condition by trusting the chef to serve what’s best at the moment. Fish and seafood are as seasonal as vegetables and other ingredients, and we select the best seasonal ingredients available when we prepare the omakase. All the fish and seafood is hand selected at the Toyosu market in Tokyo, and flown from Japan to New York three times a week. Each ingredient has its season when flavor and taste are both perfect and I want our guests to enjoy the best of the season - that’s why we only offer omakase.

AM: What can guests expect when they come to dine at Sushi Ginza Onodera?

HSC TK: Guests at Sushi Ginza Onodera can expect an authentic Japanese experience and meal, as well as ambience.

Nearly all our fish is aged in the traditional Edomae style – Edo is the ancient name for Tokyo – before being served to customers. While Americans often think of the best sushi as being the freshest possible, Edomae sushi making uses the aging process to preserve the fish, develop umami flavors and create a more tender texture. Rice is equally important to the Edomae style and our rice is mixed with two different types of red vinegar, one dark and one light, which gives it a brownish hue.

Once guests enter the restaurant, the first thing they will see is the sushi counter made of hinoki wood. This might be the longest and largest size hinoki counter in New York City. Almost everything at the restaurant is from Japan. Not only is the fish flown from Japan, we use serving dishes that showcase Japanese traditional styles like Bizen-yaki, pottery with unique un-glazed finish, and Arita-yaki porcelain, prized for their elegant painted designs. Guests can enjoy the harmony of the food with the dishes it’s served on.

AM: What sake pairings do you suggest when enjoying your menu?

HSC TK: We offer a sake pairing to accompany the omakase. Generally, sakes in the pairing are dry; however, we do pair Junmai Daiginjo with some of our appetizers such as Toro with sea urchin or Abalone. For rich flavors, an off-dry sake pairs very well.

AM: When you’re planning your menu, what are the items that you like to offer and how does seasonality play into this?

HSC TK: Seasonality and the weather are what I focus on when planning a new Omakase menu. The omakase menu should match the weather, whether it’s hot and cold, the food should reflect it.

AM: You are a Michelin star restaurant. How important is it to have this distinction?

HSC TK: Michelin stars are an indicator of quality and consistency for guests. For us, it is important to do our best every day in order to live up to the standards that Michelin has set worldwide for excellence.

AM: You recently re-opened, what are you looking forward to as we continue through the summer and being to transition in the fall and holiday season?

HSC TK: Generally in autumn, Japanese food is abundant. I look forward to sharing the season’s bounty with our guests and hope they enjoy it.

IG @sushiginzaonoderanyc

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY | Sushi Ginza Onodera

Read the SEP ISSUE #69 of Athleisure Mag and see The Art of the Snack | Sushi Ginza Onodera in mag.

SOMETHING YOU SHOULD KNOW | GET READY FOR WORLD SAKE DAY

Sake (pronounced SAH-kay not SAH-kee) fans rejoice, we sat down with Benihana Inc.'s Senior Director of Beverage, Alfredo Martinez to find out about RA Sushi, World Sake Day, how this rice wine is brewed and a few misconceptions about this beverage in this month's Something You Should know!

ATHLEISURE MAG: Can you tell us about RA Sushi, which we know is under Benihana Inc, the parent company to RA Sushi, Haru and of course, Benihana. Also tell us who you are and what you do at RA Sushi.

ALFREDO MARTINEZ: I’m the Senior Director of Beverage for all of the 3 brands that you mentioned as well as Samurai which is a concept here in Miami. We’re very lucky to have various brands. Benihana which everybody knows – we cook in front of you. RA Sushi, is the wild child. We are high energy, vibrant environment that is built on a strong happy hour with very innovative sushi. If you ever have a chance to go, we will be very happy to take care of you. It just so happens that during October, we will celebrate Nihonshu No Hi or World Sake Day and it’s just a world wide celebration day of Japanese food and culture. We’re thrilled to share a little bit of that which starts on Oct 1st and we will have specials such as $1 hot sake, Spiked Sushi Roll which is a brand new roll that we have where the tuna is marinated in sake and there is a sake pairing with it. We’re thrilled for people to try it.

AM: For those that aren’t familiar what is the process of making sake, are there varietals and in making it – is more like a wine or a beer?

AM: That’s a great question. The misconception comes when people call it a rice wine but it is actually brewed more like a beer. Since that is the case, it means that it is going to have some
of the elements of beer making. The important things to remember about sake is that there are only 4 ingredients various varieties that you can choose from), water – which is very important so the sake depending on where it is brewed in the North of Japan or the South of Japan you’ll have different qualities of water which are all amazing – but one may be a little bit more heavier, softer or sweeter depending on water content and it will have a big impact on what sake will taste like. Then you will have different kinds of yeast, which the makers will have to select the right kind to go with the rice that they are using, and koji – a special Japanese mold that will help with the brewing process and the fermentation process. Sake is the only beverage in the world that goes through a complex fermentation, but most importantly it’s sulphate free, gluten free as well. The craft and mastery of the sake creations are what we try to showcase at the restaurant to have a varied assortment for our guests to try that come from all over Japan as well as the US.

AM: Is there sake production in the US?

AM: Absolutely, you have breweries that are popping up everywhere. You have some very established ones in California and Oregon. Now we’re also seeing some are popping up in Minnesota, Tennessee and Texas. There is a lot of interest in learning more about this very special beverage because it is very versatile with food. That’s another misconception that you should only drink sake with Japanese food. It goes well with things such as steak, cheese, even dessert! There is a sparkling sake that we have at RA Sushi that we actually create mixology with that, but also as a great way to just finish your meal.

AM: What are some of the sake drinking traditions and what do you guys have going on at RA Sushi for World Sake Day?

AM: What we try to do with the celebration is to train our servers and to share with people this experience. On Oct 1st, we have Sushi 101 Classes where people can come in to learn not only how to make sushi, sushi rice, how to pair it together, but also we pair it with sake. We also include traditions. For example, if I am sitting with you, it’s never appropriate for you to serve yourself sake. I would serve you as it’s important to embrace hospitality and that’s what we do in our restaurants. The other thing is that sake is used at various ceremonies and rituals like weddings, sumo matches, etc. When we open a new restaurant, we will break a new cask of sake to celebrate the fact that we have just launched a new property.

AM: Should it be enjoyed hot or cold and are there certain sakes that should only be consumed one way?

AM: Another good point! We have been used to drinking it hot, but it’s another misconception that it should be enjoyed this way as it’s best slightly chilled or room temperature. It depends on the type of sake. The best type of sake in my opinion to warm is the fuller body or Junmai. When it’s warmed to the perfect temperature it becomes a little sweeter and softer. The more delicate sake should be enjoyed chilled because you are eating lighter types of food with it. That would be my recommendation.

AM: You talked a little about this earlier but how is the Spiked Sushi Roll made?

AM: The culinary and beverage teams put our heads together and tried to think about how the best way to celebrate sake month in Oct could be. Our chefs came up with a sushi roll where the tuna is marinated in sake and its rolled with seaweed and rice and we top it with two kinds of tuna, white and red. We then pair it with a Nigori sake which has been infused with cucumber. So of course, when you're ordering this sushi, we are going to card you – so bring your ID! You’ll also experience the rich flavors of Nigori sake with the tuna.

AM: How is it celebrated in Japan?

AM: Well basically, it’s more of a cultural celebration. This event really marks the start of the brewing season of sake. There are a number of small celebrations in the houses because people are saying goodbye to their loved ones before they go to the breweries to produce this beverage for days in a row. They have to be there everyday.

AM: So how long is the brewing season?

AM: It can go anywhere from 4 weeks to 8 weeks and then there is an aging period. So all together, it’s 6 months for it to be brewed. It's meant to be drank within a year. For our restaurants, that's why there is such a big dynamic in how we change our menus. It’s a great opportunity to try different styles because they are all going to be a little different.

AM: How do you toast someone or say cheers on World Sake Day?

AM: When you come to our restaurants, we have a lot of things going on during the whole month of Oct! But when you are with a group of friends, you just raise your glass and say kanpai! That’s the traditional way to say it in Japan.

IG @RA Sushi

Read more from the Sep Issue of Athleisure Mag and see Something You Should Know | Get Ready for World Sake Day in mag.