THE ART OF THE SNACK | DARU

We’ve hit those really cold temperatures so comfort food that is vibrant to your taste buds and the eye are an essential! In this month’s issue, The Art of the Snack taks us to DC to Daru where we enjoy cuisine from India and Nepal. Chef/Owner Suresh Sundas talks about this restaurant which has received a Michelin Bib Gourmand for the 4th year in a row as well as a James Beard Semifinalist nomination. We wanted to know more about the restaurant and what we should enjoy when we come in for our next visit!

ATHLEISURE MAG: Before we delve into Daru, tell us about your culinary background, kitchens you trained in and why you wanted to create Daru?

CHEF SURESH SUNDAS: I am originally from Morang in Eastern Nepal. After moving to the U.S., I worked throughout the DC dining scene, including roles at Rasika West End and Maydan. I met Dante Datta at Rasika in 2012, and we spent years dreaming of a neighborhood restaurant where I could honor my Nepalese and Indian roots through a playful, unexpected lens.

AM: What does Daru mean?

CHEF SS: Daru is Hindi for moonshine—specifically “desi daru,” a traditional beverage made from molasses. While we originally envisioned Daru as a cocktail bar, we kept the name when it evolved into a restaurant because it captures our spirited, creative nature.

AM: What cuisine can guests enjoy here and what are the ingredients and spices that are indicative of this?

CHEF SS: We describe our cuisine as “Indian-ish”—traditional Indian and Nepalese techniques inspired by global influences. We use foundational spices like garam masala, turmeric, cardamom, and fenugreek alongside timur (Sichuan peppercorn sourced directly from Nepal). We use high-quality, often unexpected ingredients like Thai green chiles, fermented black garlic, blue cheese, and burrata.

AM: What is the ambiance of Daru?

CHEF SS: Located in the historic Star Grocery building, Daru features 40 seats centered around a vibrant bar. The atmosphere is intimate, warm, and energetic—offering the polish of fine dining with the comfort of a favorite neighborhood spot.

AM: In looking at the menu, you have it broken out into various categories including Snacks! What are 3 that you suggest?

CHEF SS: I suggest, Bison Momo: Nepalese-style bison dumplings with timur peppercorn and Szechuan tomato chutney, Dahi Puri: A refreshing, classic bite, and Reshmi Kebab with Blue Cheese: Tender chicken with cashew paste and sour cherry chutney.

AM: What are 3 Mains that you suggest that we should enjoy?

CHEF SS: You should try, Nariyal Lamb Shank: A robust dish in Kashmiri chili-coconut curry with saffron, Chicken Tikka Masala: Made with fermented black garlic paste and Thai green chiles for depth, and Striped Bass Paturi: Bengali-style fish wrapped in banana leaf with makrut lime, and coconut.

AM: In terms of Sides, what are 3 that we should consider?

CHEF SS: To accompany your meal the Black Daal Burrata: Our signature dish featuring burrata melting into spicy black dal, Eggplant Bharta: Smoky, fire-roasted eggplant mashed with aromatic spices, onions, tomato, and coconut milk, and Wok-Fried Cabbage: Crispy, charred cabbage tossed with bold Indian spices, and timur pepper in a hot wok.

AM: For Breads/Extras, what are 3 we should try?

CHEF SS: Herb Laccha Paratha: Ideal for pairing with our curries, Zaatar Olive Naan: A blend of traditional naan and Middle Eastern flavors, and Chutney Platter: an assortment for chutneys, Tomato- Sichuan, Tamarind, Mint, Achar (Mango Pickle), and a Habanero Kashmiri Chili Hot Sauce.

AM: What are 3 Winter cocktails we should try?

CHEF SS: Our Winter cocktails you should try are our Chai-tini: A dessert-like rum cocktail with warm chai spices, Bandit Queen: A Boulevardier with garam masala-infused rum and Sichuan peppercorn amaro, and Divine Contraband: an old fashioned riff using bourbon fat washed with cashew butter, golden raisins, and a touch of palo cortado sherry.

AM: What are 3 mocktails we should try?

CHEF SS: Acid-Adjust Carrot, Garam Masala, Soda (Carrot infused n/a margarita), Love and Demons: Zero-Rum, Hibiscus, Lemon,Tulsi Tea, Ginger Beer, Mint ( Collins style drink with indian herbal tulsi tea), Seasonal Lassis: Fresh fruit and spice combinations that change throughout the year. (pear/mango and peach/ Blueberry Cardamom).

AM: Are there any upcoming events we should know about?

CHEF SS: Our Cielo Rojo Dinner!

AM: Daru has received for a 4th year in a row, the Michelin Bib Gourmand (2022 - 2025) what does it mean to you?

CHEF SS: This recognition validates our goal of providing high-quality, high-value cooking in a neighborhood setting. Retaining this distinction since our opening year proves we are successfully honoring tradition while pushing creative boundaries.

AM: You personally just received a nomination for 2026 James Beard Semifinalist for Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic - what does this distinction mean to you?

CHEF SS: This honor recognizes our entire team’s dedication. It motivates me to stay connected to my roots while continuing to evolve and create dishes that surprise our guests.

IG @daru.dc

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY | Calvin Kim

Read the JAN ISSUE #121 of Athleisure Mag and see THE ART OF THE SNACK | Daru in mag.

THE ART OF THE SNACK | TAPORI

Tell us we're going to have Indian Cuisine and you can see our tastebuds getting excited for our next meal of savory dishes and phenomenal cocktails! So when we heard that Tapori was opening in DC, we knew that they would be the perfect inclusion for this month's The Art of the Snack!

We wanted to explore more with this H Street find and to talk with Dante Datta who is an industry veteran who is one half of the founding team Daru (Chef Suresh Sundas is the other founder). We discovered more about this restaurant and bar who has a number of our soon to be favorite street foods that we'll have to enjoy the next time we're in the neighborhood.

ATHLEISURE MAG: Before we delve into Tapori, we'd like to know about the backgrounds of you as well as Chef Suresh Sundas and how they came together to create this restaurant!

DANTE DATTA: Suresh Sundas, the executive chef of Tapori, hails from Nepal and arrived in the U.S. in 2007, fueled by his passion for the vibrant flavors of his homeland. Drawing from the shared spices of Indian and Nepalese cuisines, he aims to showcase the unique Indo-Chinese influence of Himalayan dishes while introducing traditional Nepalese momo (dumplings) and noodles to the menu.

I bring a wealth of experience in crafting cocktails to Tapori, drawing on my deep appreciation for flavors and cultural influences. As a first-generation American with roots in West Bengal, I have embraced my heritage while honing my skills in mixology. My background in creating innovative and balanced drinks reflects a commitment to using fresh, quality ingredients along with a nod to traditional Indian flavors, allowing me to create a unique cocktail menu that complements the vibrant street food of Tapori and adds a personal touch to the dining experience.

AM: Can you define what Indian Street Food is and why did you want this to be the focus of Tapori?

DD: Indian street food is a vibrant celebration of bold flavors and aromas, crafted on bustling streets across the country. With diverse offerings like tangy chaat, succulent kebabs, and irresistible vada pav, each dish reflects rich regional traditions. At Tapori, we want to embrace the spirited culinary culture to provide guests with an experience that transports them directly to the heart of India's street food scene.

AM: What are the flavors and ingredients that are indicative of Indian cuisine?

DD: Indian cuisine is characterized by its bold and diverse flavors, featuring a symphony of spices like cumin, coriander, turmeric, and cardamom that create layers of complexity in each dish. Fresh ingredients, such as vibrant herbs, lentils, and seasonal vegetables, come together to craft rich, aromatic meals that excite the palate and evoke the warmth of home-cooked Indian fare.

AM: What can you tell us about The District's historic H St which is where you are located.

DD: Opening Tapori on H Street felt like a no-brainer for us - this lively area is buzzing with energy and creativity, perfect for our vision of serving up mouthwatering South Asian street food. We wanted to join the mix of eclectic bars and eateries and offer something that not only celebrates our heritage, but also adds to the vibrant culinary scene that H Street is known for. It’s all about bringing people together over great food and drinks in a place that’s all about good vibes and community! We’ve been so well supported with the neighborhood we wanted to continue to grow them.

AM: What does Tapori mean?

DD: Very "tapori," a Hindi word that loosely translates to "rowdy" or "vagabond." The new spot channels a Mumbai subculture popularized by Bollywood in the mid-90s.

AM: In terms of ambiance, what can guests expect when they come in to dine?

DD: A large bar, open kitchen and 20-person communal table — mingling encouraged — are set for a party vibe. You'll also see more tucked-away booths and a mural by local artist Patrick Owens.

AM: Tell us about Edit Lab at Streetsense who designed this space!

DD: As a friend of Brian Miller, I’ve always admired his unique approach to design. At Edit Lab at Streetsense, Brian and his team are renowned for creating immersive environments that reflect a brand’s personality and enhance the guest experience through thoughtful architectural details and material choices. Their collaborative process with chefs and restaurateurs ensures every element feels intentional and cohesive, demonstrating creativity, cultural sensitivity, and meticulous attention to detail, which makes us trust them implicitly.

For Tapori, Edit Lab has been dedicated to crafting a vibrant atmosphere. The design features hip neon accents reflected off mirrored walls, wood paneling, intimate booths, and banquette seating, contributing to a lively and warm dining experience.”

AM: Your menu reflects and takes culinary inspiration from different regions in India.

DD: Yes, we will be pulling from regions from the Himalayas, Mumbai, and Kerala for example.

AM: Can you tell us about the regions that you pull from and the kinds of dishes and ingredients/spices that come from those areas?

DD: At Tapori, the culinary inspiration comes from vibrant regions of South Asia, particularly Nepal and India, featuring dishes like momo (dumplings) and various Indian street foods enriched with spices such as cumin, coriander, turmeric, and garam masala. The restaurant also embraces Indo-Chinese fusion, incorporating bold flavors and fresh ingredients to create an exciting and memorable dining experience.

AM: How important is it to offer dishes that include vegetarian, seafood, and various meat options?

DD: South Asian cuisine is so diverse, and one of the best things about it is how it brings everyone to the table. You can have vegetarians, vegans, and meat lovers all chilling together, and each one will find something they love. It’s all about the flavors and options that make sure everyone leaves happy and satisfied!

AM: What are 3 appetizers that we should be thinking about when we come in to eat with friends and family?

DD: Lotus Root Chaat features crispy lotus root tossed with gram flour, drizzled with sweet yogurt and a sprinkle of black salt for a delightful crunch and tang.

Cauliflower 65 delivers a spicy and savory experience with oven-roasted cauliflower, enhanced by roasted garlic, aromatic curry leaves, mustard seeds, and served with a rich Kashmiri chili mayo.

Buff Chili combines tender buffalo, stir-fried with a flavorful blend of soy sauce, timur, and onions, all topped with crispy puffed rice for an exciting texture and taste.

AM: In terms of small plates, what are 3 that you suggest that we should have in mind?

DD: Calamari Kuttu features tender stir-fried squid seasoned with aromatic black pepper, fennel, and a tangy tamarind sauce for a bold flavor profile.

Jhol Momo offers bison dumplings nestled in a fragrant stew enriched with nutmeg and infused with chili garlic oil for a warming and savory delight.

Gunpowder Masala Dosa presents a crispy fermented rice lentil crepe filled with spiced aloo masala, served alongside sambar, coconut chutney, and tomato chutney for a vibrant and satisfying meal.

AM: What are 3 main dishes that we should have in mind?

DD: Goat Pakku Biryani is a fragrant dish featuring tender slow-cooked goat infused with saffron, nutmeg, and black pepper, layered with aromatic basmati rice and mace for depth of flavor.

Bhatiki Bater highlights tandoori quail marinated in bold Kashmiri chili and garam masala, served with creamy yogurt and a drizzle of mustard oil for a deliciously spicy kick.

Seabass Kebab showcases succulent seabass blended with sundried tomatoes, green chili, and carom seeds, served with a creamy mint labneh and a hint of Amritsar spice for a fresh and zesty taste.

AM: What are 3 desserts that are a great way to complete our meal when we're sharing with the table?

DD: Gulab Jamun is a classic Indian dessert consisting of small, soft balls made from khoya (milk solids) soaked in fragrant rose syrup, offering a rich and sweet delight.

Rasgulla features spongy, white cheese balls cooked in light sugar syrup, delivering a refreshing and satisfying sweetness that's perfect for any occasion.

Kheer is a creamy rice pudding made from basamati rice, milk, sugar, and flavored with cardamom and nuts, creating a comforting and indulgent treat.

AM: What are 3 cocktails that you recommend that we should have?

DD: Tapori Cocktail - A tamarind flavored take on a classic Boulevardier.

Achari Martini - A take on a Dirty martini using a brine made for Achar, a south asian pickle used as a condiment.

The Pineapple-Timur Daiquiri is a refreshing twist on the classic cocktail, featuring acidified pineapple that adds a bright, tangy sweetness in place of traditional lime juice. This vibrant drink combines the tropical essence of fresh pineapple with the unique, slightly spicy notes of timur (Sichuan pepper) tincture.

AM: Do you have a Happy Hour and if so, please tell us about this!

DD: We will be offering a varieties of cocktails, beer and wine at happy hour eventually.

AM: Are there any events coming up in the Spring that we should keep an eye out for?

DD: Yes, Look out for a fun collaboration with Service Bar, Albi, Martiny’s (NYC) and Angel Share (NYC) on April 7th!

IG @tapori.dc

PHOTO CREDITS | Deb Lindsey

Read the FEB ISSUE #110 of Athleisure Mag and see THE ART OF THE SNACK | Tapori in mag.