AM: Oh my God - love a good roast chicken and not everyone makes a good one.
How do you define your style of cooking?
CHEF AL: You know, I grew up in an American Italian family. I’m basically American Italian and Jewish. We ate mostly American Italian. I grew up in Long Island, New York, in a very, small community where, again, it was mostly American Italians. And so I didn’t really know much about, diversity of food until I moved to Los Angeles.
AM: Right.
CHEF AL: Then I had Mexican food for the first time! I mean, sure, you had Chinese restaurants in Long Island.
AM: Right.
CHEF AL: I was just someone who, you know, was very inquisitive about food. And through that, you know, of course everything just started building. Like, my restaurant Scopa is American Italian.
So I found myself being like, oh my God of course my go-to is Italian food because that’s the most comforting.
AM: Right.
CHEF AL: As I grew up, I went to a big public school in Los Angeles so the majority of people that I went to school with were all from Mexico or Mexican descent and we just ate a ton of Mexican food. I found myself cooking it and learning more about it. DAMA is a mixture of Mexican. I spent a good amount of time in Spain. My business partner, one of them was from Colombia.
My daughter is Jamaican. So my ex-in-law, you know, obviously I spent 10 years with them throughout Jamaica. So I learned about Caribbean food, not from books, but learning Caribbean food from Caribbean women and grandmothers! I remember the first time it was like a Christmas. Someone didn’t want to make the rice and peas and they’re like, “well Antonia can make it and I remember being like, I was no longer the white girl!”
AM: Exactly, having family that is Jamaican, Haitian, Dominican etc that is a high honor they gave you! Because those had to be right and they will tell you!
CHEF AL: I mean, I learned how to
make stewed peas, I learned how to
make curry, I know how to make jerk!
AM: Facts!
CHEF AL: So I think that my love of food came from really immersing myself just in different cultures in a very real way.
AM: Right.
CHEF AL: And so when people ask about my cooking style, I think they just automatically assume because of my name –
AM: Exactly.
CHEF AL: All I do is Italian food. And yes, I have an Italian restaurant, but if you look at Black Market, everything that I do there is a mixture of everything. The throughline is, you know, I grew up in Wolfgang Puck’s kitchen. So for me, it’s execution and organization and discipline that runs the show. My ability to have my own voice and my own true temperament with food come through with ingredients that I have a true understanding, love, and respect for you know?
I really don’t play with things that I don’t understand. I think I always end up like, you know, for lack of a better words, like fucking them up. I remember I did S8 of Top Chef: All-Stars and I got paired with Morimoto. Basically, the challenge was to create a last meal and this was something his mother made for him. Instead of just taking the ingredients that I know how to use, like I know how to use miso. I know how to use sushi rice because we used to use use it at Spago with Wolfgang. I know how to tempura things. Instead of using the items that he gave me and just create something of my own, I try to recreate an actual memory from his childhood, which no one can do no matter what culture it is.
AM: Yeah.
CHEF AL: I just really screwed up and so I’ve always kind of taken that lesson to heart which is when I understand an ingredient I can use them in my format instead of taking the ingredients and trying to make something that’s very traditional or very specific, unless I’ve spent a lot of time with people from that culture and I can really immerse myself in it like don’t even try because the heart part of things don’t transfer when you don’t have like a true understanding of what someone has experienced or cooked in that culture. Like you just can’t, you can’t recreate it.
AM: No. And I agree with that. When I first became aware of you as a chef was S4 Top Chef: Chicago. I mean, I’ve been watching Top Chef since the beginning.
CHEF AL: Amazing.
AM: So seeing you in that season and again in S8 for All-Stars. Every time I see you in these competition shows, you can see that you’re locked in and you know exactly how you are going to attack the designated task. What draws you to doing reality competition shows?
CHEF AL: You know, it’s funny because, you know, I started reality competition in 2007, right? This was back in the day when I was still working as a line cook at Spago. We got hazed if we even spoke about watching reality television to do with cooking.
AM: Oh, wow.
CHEF AL: It was like, we don’t talk about it in this kitchen. Real chefs don’t do those shows - keep your mouth shut.
AM: Wow!
CHEF AL: And so, it was almost like this dirty secret, that I liked watching it. Like, I would find myself with other, dirty people standing in the walkin being like, “oh, my God, did you see what happened last night?” Like, this is wild, right?
AM: Yeah.
CHEF LA: Think about this. The very first reality television competition in cooking was Iron Chef America that started in 2004. I went on Top Chef in 2007. So within the first 900 days of this ever being on television, I am now watching this thing unfold being like, oh my God. Right?
AM: That’s true.
CHEF AL: I really didn’t have like, I want to be on that show or I could be on that show. I was just petrified of the show and in awe of it. Right. And, and then also in this mindset of being like, oh my God, I could never do a show like that because if I, I worked at, well, I worked at Spago. Yeah. And if I wanted to continue down this, this line of like real chef, true chef, I won’t, I don’t do stuff like that.
AM: Yeah.
CHEF AL: Right. Yeah. And then, I ended up, you know, and this was obviously season one. So I ended up leaving and it’s 3 years later and I’m now working for SBE, which is definitely a little bit more. I mean, if you’re in LA or if anyone knows SBE, they have, you know, some of the biggest like nightclub, blah, blah, blah. And so I found myself being a little, obviously less rigid with myself. I was actually working for Eddie Murphy at the time. I was doing his personal chefing. I was like, I was in a Gelson’s and I walked by Rachel Ray on a Triscuit box. I was like, you know what? If Rachael Ray could be on a Triscuit box, I don’t know why I’m thinking so small. I could do something like that.
At the time I worked for SBE and I was promised the shot at opening their supper club, which was still going to be a bar and a lounge and a nightclub, but I would have the opportunity to build out a 9 item menu for their little lounge. I got really excited by the idea of my first ability to build out a small menu. SBE’s marketing team was like, “by the way, Top Chef is interested.” Basically the producers of Top Chef reached out to large restaurant marketing teams. They were always looking for women because there was like five of us.