THE ART OF THE SNACK | SHILLING CANNING CO

This month, we make our way down to DC to enjoy a meal at Shilling Canning Co whose roots are based in agriculture and the art of canning. We sit down with Chef Reid Shilling to find out how his family legacy led him to bring his restaurant to diners who enjoy his California meets Maryland heritage cuisine. We find out about his culinary journey, the restaurant, and what we should think about enjoying upon our next visit in this month's The Art of the Snack.

ATHLEISURE MAG: When did Shilling Canning Company open and can you tell us the meaning behind the name and can you tell us the history of this family business?

CHEF REID SHILLING: We opened on July 10, 2019. We are coming up on our 6th anniversary. Hard to believe.

My family has seemingly always been on either construction or agriculture of some form. This dates back for as long as I can find in census records. Canning itself dates back to the Napoleonic wars where he offered a reward for for the invention of new food preservation techniques so that he could better feed his troops.

In 1809 that reward was fulfilled, by 1850’s the mason jar was patented, by the late 1800’s Ball started manufacturing them for home use, and in early 1900’s the can was brought onto the scene. This was a game changer for many farmers, as it extended their money making season beyond the growing season. My family was no different as they farmed in Carrol County, Maryland outside of Baltimore.

From 1935-1958 they operated several canning sheds packing under 10 or 12 different labels (Shillbro, Shilling Bros. Canning Company, Bethel Heights (the name of the road on the shed still stands on today) Weller, etc) and they packed for neighboring farms as well. They had really high standards of quality for what they packed, and even went to far as to label the cans “these peas packed fresh from our own farm.”

For me, this resonated. I spent a handful of years operating kitchens in California where I developed relationships with the farmers whose food I served and began to really understand the differences between well grown and raised food vs the quality of commodity grown and raised products . (I still keep contact with a lot of them today and sometimes I’m lucky enough to get their food here). For me, walking through the Santa Monica and Napa farmers markets was really inspirational, and my approach inherently became more “west coast” where I’d walk the market to select the products directly from the farmer, and then write a menu based on what I loved. I knew I wanted to bring that approach, the relationships with local farmers and the high quality food, back to the mid Atlantic where at the time (early 2000’s) that way of cooking was only being done by a handful of chefs. So like my ancestors, I really cared about the ingredients being used so the association between the two was seamless. It is seasonal Maryland/mid Atlantic farmhouse style cooking with California finesse: a blend of my heritage and my career travels.

AM: For those that have yet to dine at this DC restaurant, what is the ambiance of the restaurant in terms of the design?

CHEF RS: The ambiance centers around our copper wood burning oven, and open kitchen. Notes of the Chesapeake sprinkled throughout, marble chef's counter where you can experience our 7 course chef's tasting menu and interact with me and the kitchen team. It’s industrial, but with softer touch pillows, navy blue banquettes, and some appropriately themed artwork. Some replicas of my families cans make an appearance as well as some of the cans we have put up as well.

AM: Can you speak about the background of Chef Reid Shilling, where he trained and kitchens he worked in prior to coming to this restaurant?

CHEF RS: This July marks 27 years in the industry, most all of which occurred in the kitchen. I got a hospitality degree from Florida State University, worked for Hillstone Restaurant Group running the kitchens in some of their flagship properties like Hillstone on Park Avenue, Houston’s on the Santa Monica Farmers Market, Gulfstream in Century City/Beverly Hills and of course Woodmont Grill right here in Bethesda. I graduated from the Culinary Institute of America at Greystone, (where I met Sara, my wife and business partner) and then went on to work for Thomas Keller at Bouchon. I was part of the opening team at The Dabney, and then went on to do some consulting while pushing forward to getting Shilling open.

AM: What is the cuisine that can be enjoyed here?

CHEF RS: We highlight the ingredients of the Chesapeake, with a menu that changes with the seasons (not winter spring summer fall, but Rockfish season, tomato season, peach season, pumpkin season, Maryland blue crab, etc) so the menu is always changing and evolving.

AM: Why is seasonality so important to the menus that are offered here and what are the kinds of ingredients that tend to be on the menu during this time of year?

CHEF RS: Seasonality is so important because the overwhelming amount of ingredients we buy come from local small family farms. Yeah you can get blueberries in the supermarket all year long but that doesn’t mean they are good. Depending on the time of year they can come from any number of countries with minimal focus on the actual quality of the berry and how it’s grown. Our berries come from Annette, a farmer in Waynesboro PA (5 Sisters Fruit Farm) who will only hand pick and sell us fruit with the highest quality. I highlight her fruit with just a little jam (made from her fruit) and some lightly sweetened mascarpone and mint or hyssop from our culinary garden. That’s the difference. Right now we are getting Rockfish caught that morning from the mouth of the Patapsco River, Softshell crabs from Crab Alley Bay, Fava beans from both VA and PA, Black bass from a family that’s been fishing out of west ocean city MD for 5 decades. It’s so exciting because our growing season here in the mid Atlantic is just getting started.

AM: In looking at your Dinner Menu, what are 3 items from your Raw Bar that you suggest?

CHEF RS: We have had Orchard Point Oysters on our menu from when we opened, a great Beginners Oyster as they are mild and sweet because of where they are raised, tucked up in the east bay. Our Tuna Crudo is made with a salsa matcha that utilizes peppers we have preserved from last pepper season and Virginia Peanuts. Don’t miss that.

AM: For Smalls, what do you suggest that we should try?

CHEF RS: Deviled Eggs and our Country Ham Biscuits have become staples for us. Right now I’m loving the Early June Peas. Fireside Farms Sugar Snaps, Path Valley Farms Snow Peas are charred in the wood burning oven and served with hummus, and smoked yogurt. That dish was created by one of our chefs: Andre, and it’s been really popular. Don’t sleep on adding the Elysian Fields Purebred Lamb.

AM: When you're thinking about Mains, what are 3 that we should have in mind when dining with friends and family?

CHEF RS: Our version of Duck L’orange is awesome. The duck comes from La Belle Farms in the Hudson Valley, right now it’s the confit of a leg, and we serve it with glazed beets, and fennel. The Honey Bell Mandarins of course come from CA cause it’s tough to beat. The Rockfish is amazing, with a ragout of Lancaster fava and trout roe for pops of salinity. We brine the fish so the skin gets crispy when it's roasted over the coals. Amish Fried Chicken has been on our menu for 5 plus years and has become a signature item for us. Keep a lookout for more of that.

AM: We love a Tasting Menu and you have a 7- Course that you offer at Chef's Counter. Tell us about it.

CHEF RS: It’s a cross section of what’s best right now. I talk guests through the inspiration of the dish, where the products come from, and give you a really good idea about how intentional all our dishes and pairings are. It’s a personal, fun, and delicious experience.

AM: We find Happy Hour is a great way to know more about a restaurant as well as to enjoy meeting up with friends. What are 3 items you suggest from this menu in terms of bites and a beverage?

CHEF RS: $5 Martinis, $7 Dirty Martinis, and $9 Hogwash - yes, Hogwash. That’s our Applewood Smoked Bacon Fat Washed Bourbon Old Fashioned. Really an amazing cocktail. To eat, any of the sandwiches from our lunchtime concept ampersandwich will do. The Baltimore Pit Beef hits on notes from my childhood growing up in Baltimore. And of course we hand make the Brioche Benne Seed Buns.

AM: What are 3 cocktails that you suggest in terms of one s we should consider to pair with our meals?

CHEF RS: Miguel, our bar director, has done a great job of elevating the bar experience. The Fun and Funky uses cilantro from our culinary garden, the Finksburg Lemonade highlights our mint with Hendrick’s Gin (Finksburg is where the original Shilling Canning Company was) both of these play nice with our food.

AM: Brunch is an important meal for the week! What are 3 items from the Smalls, Mains, and Sides that we should pick the next time we come in to dine?

CHEF RS: The Buttermilk Fried Amish Chicken is our play on chicken and waffles; the Breakfast Burrito I’d put up against anyone’s: our handmade flour tortilla, 8 hour confit pork belly, crispy potatoes (triple cooked like our fries), preserved Fresno, black turtle beans, farm fresh scrambled eggs, fire roasted salsa. It’s not your ordinary burrito. The Vegetable Hash is unique too. It’s all the vegetables of the moment from our partner farms, roasted in the wood burning oven and then dressed with ramp butter I make every spring. A few dashes of our house made hot sauce and 2 poached farm eggs.

AM: Can you talk about the partner farms that you work with and why is it important for Shilling Canning Co to work with them?

CHEF RS: Fireside Farm, Shenendoah Seasonal, Lancaster Farm Fresh Co-op, Path Valley Farms, 5 Sisters Fruit Farm, Durgin Orchard, Orchard Point Oysters, Skilligalee Seafood, Autumn Olive Farms, Ovoka Virginia Wagyu, The Farm at Doe Run, Compass Winds Sorghum, just to name a few. It’s a lot harder to source this way but it’s the right way. The quality is better, and most are regenerative in their practices. The food has higher nutritional content and flavor as compared to commodity/mass produced products.

AM: Are there any events coming up that we should know about as we continue into the Summer?

CHEF RS: We have a few fun dinners coming up with our wine and liquor partners (Chandon/Buffalo Trace) as well as Fancy Ranch Amish Fried Chicken)

IG @shillingcanningcompany

PHOTO CREDITS | Jennifer Chase

Read the JUN ISSUE #114 of Athleisure Mag and see THE ART OF THE SNACK | Shilling Canning Co in mag.

BCB 2024

On Jun 10th to Jun 11th, the Athleisure Mag team had the pleasure of spending 2 days in Brooklyn to enjoy Bar Convent Brooklyn which included hitting the tradeshow floor of this industry event in order to our tried and true brands as well as new brands. It's also an amazing time to meet up with others from the spirit and hospitality industries whether you're onsite or a number of events that took place during the day and night. Although it would be impossible to give you a play-by-play of all of the things that we took part in, we did want to highlight moments and brands that we engaged with during this show in addition to what you may have seen on our IG @AthleisureMag. If you want to know more about the backstory of this show, why it was created, its aims and more, we suggest that you revisit our interview in the MAY ISSUE #101 with Jackie Williams the VP of Events at BCB!

The night before the official kickoff event, we headed to Hawksmoor, a noted steakhouse to take part in the Martini (Fords Gin) X Manhattan (Woodford Reserve) event which allowed guests to enjoy drinks that were created by mixologists from the restaurant as well as noted guest bartenders Holly Graham of Tokyo Confidential and Ramsey Musk of Accomplice Bar. In the battle between gin and bourbon, everyone wins and there were great oysters to keep the vibe going and to prepare us for the next 2 days of drinks!

On the first day of the show, it was all about learning the lay of the land as this show was at Industry City and takes up a number of buildings as well as courtyards which allows you to have a lot of options whether you're sitting and taking a break or just want to have a moment. It's always fun to see how brands like Hendrick's Gin and Campari create amazing spaces that really show you their brand while also having the ability to meet new brands that are navigating the space. We enjoyed Juliette Peach Liqueur which was a refreshing sip that could be enjoyed alone, but was even better when it was paired with champagne to give it a bubbly feel. On a hot day, this is something that is simple to make and easy to drink while looking elegant!

This year, there were a number of Mezcals and Tequilas to enjoy! We spent some time with the team at Cierto and sampled their range of tequilas. We were initially drawn into their faceted shaped bottles which reminded us of a diamond, but their Blanco was incredibly smooth and one that we will enjoy sipping for quite some time (along with their full line of tequilas). It's always worth trying something completely new and realizing that it must have a place on your bar cart!

We were feeling the speakeasy vibes of Templeton Midnight Rye Whiskey as we loved hearing about its history and in addition to sampling it, we were excited to have our bottle engraved which is another flex that you can enjoy as you build your bar cart or bar top depending on how you store your favorites.

We spent a large part of the day at the show and our list could go on when it comes to what we sampled, but this show is also great as there are additional events that take place throughout Brooklyn as well as in Manhattan. We made 2 stops, the first was iichiko's Summer Party at Bar Goto Niban. This event allowed us to head to this super cute and intimate bar and to enjoy shochu cocktails that were paried with Japanese bites! In addition, there was shaved ice (literally looked like cotton candy) that also had shochu in it from Kuramoto Ice. This was offered at their booth at the show; however, we hadn't seen it and made a note to swing by the next day, but were pleased to be able to try it in this setting.

We walked about 10mins away and found ourselves at Leyenda bar which had Diplomático Rum being served as well as tacos and other tasty bites. We enjoyed hanging out here at this James Beard nominated bar which is co-owned by Julie Reiner and Ivy Mix. It was a fun night and although we could have stayed awhile longer, we wanted to make our way back into the city for Industry Icons at Great Jones Distilling Co which is the first distillery since Prohibition. With guest bartenders making phenomenal drinks, the ability to see this beautiful space with a stunning bar as well as great bites, it was a mix between a low key meets vibrant night to prepare us for the next day of events that we would participate in.

It's worth noting that for this year's show we liked the food trucks that were available which was definitely a great way to keep your energy up and STUF'D had the perfect combo of fries and a rib eye sandwhich which was much needed and enjoyed in the courtyard.

On the second and last day of this show, the goal was to continue to sample brands throughout the space as well as to connect with those that we had made appointments with. Our appointment and Guided Tasting with Silent Pool Gin was an immersive experience to learn about the English town that makes the gin; why its location makes the gin; what it is; and being able to learn how the different components come together for a well balanced drink!

One of the our favorite parts of the day was to step into a session with Jaime Salas Proximo Spirits Head of Advocacy Agave. We had a deep dive into Cristalino Tequilas (one of them being a Mezcal which was an added treat). This sampling seminar was a great opportunity to be able to get to know more about each of the 8 tequilas that were being shared from the portfolio, to learn more about the terroir, and to train our paletes so that we could identify what tasting notes were involved. We have had the pleasure of talking tequila with Jaime so we knew it would be a great and thoughtful session. We also had the opportunity to swing by their booth prior to this tasting in order to get a preview of what we would be enjoying at the Liquid Lounge!

Overall, the 2 days, the booths, and the parties/events really allowed you to connect next with this diverse community through sips whether you were focused on vodka, gin, mezcal, whiskeys, rum, canned spirits, innovations in non-alcoholic offerings and more!

The ability to learn and sip at your own pace and to be able to share your passion and knowledge with other enthusiasts across the industry is always a good time! With our last sips on the way out, it was everything that we expected it to be and of course, we're already excited for getting ready for next year as you know it'll involve a number of our favorite brands that may or may not be presenting a new product; the opportunity to try various cocktails and to chat with those brands about the beverages; and of course seeing things that are new to you or are completely brand new to the market!

IG @barconventbrooklyn

PHOTO CREDITS | Bar Convent Brooklyn

Read the JUN ISSUE #102 of Athleisure Mag and see BCB 2024 in mag.

HOW TO DRESS | POST WORKOUT TO GRAB A BITE

Read the DEC ISSUE #96 of Athleisure Mag and see HOW TO DRESS | Post WOrkout To Grab a Bite in mag.