AN EVENING OF COMFORT FOOD

This month, we settled into our table after a rainy day to a feast that was comprised of Northern Italian and Southern French foods that were filled with savory flavors along with a wine list that complimented each portion of the meal. After a satisfying tasting journey, we wanted to find out more about this Flatiron spot - Trattoria Italienne and of course, to share it with Athleisure Mag! We sat down with Owner/Executive Chef, Jared Sippel to find out more about this culinary experience.

ATHLEISURE MAG: Tell us about your culinary background.

CHEF JARED SIPPEL: Originally from Iowa, I was raised with strong connections to food and farming, with family who grew produce, raised livestock, and owned local restaurants. I cooked throughout high school and worked as a sous chef at an Italian restaurant while attending the University of Iowa. Upon graduating, I moved to Boulder, CO to attend the Culinary School of the Rockies, and work at the James Beard Award winning Frasca Food & Wine under renowned chef Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson. To broaden my palate and further educate himself on European cuisine, I headed straight to the source, where I spent several months living and working at 2-Star Michelin L’Oustau de Baumaniere in Provence and staging across Italy at Michelin starred restaurants including La Primula and La Subida in Friuli as well as La Peca in Veneto. It was during this time that the majority of the inspiration behind Trattoria Italienne was derived, from menus to wine lists and aesthetics. Once back in the States, I returned for a second tour at Frasca, before moving to San Francisco to serve as Sous Chef at the 3-Star Michelin, Quince under Chef Michael Tusk. After two years, it was called back to Frasca once again to assume the role of Chef de Cuisine. Finally, I moved to New York City with my wife Lindsey and opened Italienne in 2016.

AM: How would you describe the restaurant as well as its culinary focus?

CHEF JS: Through a gradual evolution, the restaurant has pivoted from its original concept, to a more casual, engaging, and accessible Trattoria Italienne. In spite of the change to a more casual format, the emphasis on great food, premium product and exemplary service remain paramount. I stay true to the restaurant’s roots, taking diners on a journey to the intersection of Northern Italy and Southern France. Every dish has a history and every menu item has a story. The cuisine here is based on authentic dishes from these regions as well as the surrounding areas of the Mediterranean; showing connections between the Basque region of Spain, with Morocco and France, as well as showcasing the relationship of Austria and Slovenia with Northern Italy. It is not a random fusion of flavors from the Mediterranean but it's crafted with skillful techniques and carefully considered influences, for the ultimate goal of transporting the diner with authentic flavors. Trattoria Italienne represents the culmination of my career and my training in the distinct regional cuisines of Northern Italy and Southern France. I lived and worked in Provence; his time at Frasca in Boulder, CO with Chef Mackinnon-Patterson immersed me in the nuances of Friuli and Alto-Adige; and Quince’s Chef Tusk exposed me to the region of Piemonte. It’s all come full circle at Trattoria Italienne.

The restaurant is divided into two rooms. In the front room, the large bar has a wood and marble counter and plenty of room to enjoy a drink and a bar snack or a full meal. An impressive lighting fixture with giant bulbs hangs from thick ropes over the bar. The feel of the restaurant is rustic and expansive, with high ceilings and exposed wood beams. In the dining room, leather banquettes wrap around the room, with copious space between tables—a rare commodity in a Manhattan restaurant. Cozy wooden booths backed with blue upholstery put you at the center of the action, while also allowing for some privacy. Overall, there’s lots of room for large groups. The space is ideal for parties, special events and special occasions. There’s also a cozy wine cellar room for private dining.

AM: When we visited, truffle season literally started on that day – why is the White Truffle such an amazing element to add to a dish and can you suggest 3 dishes that we should think about having it on?

CHEF JS: White truffles are a special ingredient because of their rarity and seasonality. At the restaurant we showcase them in traditional piedmontese dishes like gnocchi di patate, agnolotti dal Plin and tajarin. We also offer them shaved over a number of our dishes that work well in showcasing the aroma of white truffles, which are usually dairy driven with cream, cheese and butter.

AM: What are 3 appetizers that you suggest that we should have in mind when visiting?

CHEF JS:

1. Thinly sliced Proscuitto San Daniele from Fruili is served with grissini (long, crisp housemade breadsticks) fresh shaved horseradish and European butter.

2. Polpo Alla Plancha, a Basque country classic with other influences: the tender grilled octopus is presented with gigante beans, olives, Sicilian capers and Moroccan harissa.

3. Italian Chicory Salad, available year-round, prepared with radiccio from various regions of Italy. Made with two types of bagna cauda (anchovy dressing— one broken (non-emulsified), one not, one with white vinegar, one with red and black truffle vinaigrette.

AM: What are 3 signature cocktails that we should enjoy while there?

CHEF JS:

1. The Navin Johnson is a twist on an Old-Fashioned, built with Four Roses yellow bourbon, Ramazzotti, crème de cacao (for sweetness instead of sugar, which adds depth, another layer of flavor) garnished with orange peel.

2. You Had me at Aloe is bright and refreshing, with a surprising flavor of cucumber and mint, and is composed of Aviation gin, aloe liqueur, lime, and agave.

3. Regal Bees: cimarron tequila, lemon, honey, oro blanco grapefruit twist.

AM: With the holiday season around the corner, are there specials or events that you will have at the restaurant that we should know about?

CHEf JS: One notable upcoming event for the restaurant is their Piedmontese Dinner which will celebrate the life and wines of Brunco Giacosa. I will hold an exclusive Piedmontese dinner to honor the of wines of legendary producer Bruno Giacosa. Guests will be taken on a journey through the Piedmont region with my curated five-course pairing menu with selection that include Agnolotti ai tres Arroisti, a traditional piedmontese stuffed pasta with tartufi bianchi and served with a Nebbiolo D’alba Valmaggiore from 2017, and Sformato Di Verdure, cardoon with radicchios dressed in Cesare giaccone barbera vinegar and served with a Barbera D’alba from 2017.

The dinner will be held on November 18th at 6:30pm in Trattoria Italienne’s warm and picturesque back dining room. The evening is priced at $229 and a reservation is required.

PHOTOS COURTESY | TRATTORIA ITALIENNE

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