This month's The Art of the Snack introduces our readers to the historic Sarashina Horii which opened in Japan in 1789. We connected with Chef Tsuyoshi Hori and General Manager Rui Higuchi which shares the historic nature of the restaurant as well as its location here in NY. We also learn more about soba and the culinary heritage that is involved. As always we find out about what appetizers, entrees, cocktails and desserts we should keep in mind when dining their next as well as what they are offering during NY Restaurant Week.

ATHLEISURE MAG: Before we delve into Sarashina Horii here in NY, can you tell us about the history and when it was initially established?

CHEF TSUYOSHI HORI: Sarashina Horii has a history that dates to 1789 and has served its soba noodles to the Shoguns and Japanese Imperial Household. It is now overseen by ninth generation soba maker and owner Yoshinori Horii. Japan has three main families associated with the art of soba making and Sarashina Horii is known for its unique white soba using only the very core of the buckwheat seeds. The husk of the seed is polished off the way rice is polished to make sake. This white soba is much different type of soba and has been made this way by the family since the late 1800’s and the Sarashina type of soba is quite rare in Japan as well.

AM: You have three restaurants in Tokyo and one here in NY. Why did you want to have a location here and what are the differences/similarities to those that are in Japan?

CHEF TH: Yoshinori Hori chose New York for their first location outside of Japan because New York is known for its diversity, which will allow him the opportunity to introduce his soba to many people. Mr. Horii is also proud of the historical connection between the U.S and Japan as the founder opened the first restaurant the same year George Washington was inaugurated as President of the U.S.

AM: Is there anyone from the Horii family here in NY that ensures that this restaurant has the same standards as those that are overseas?

GENERAL MANAGER RUI HIGUCHI: Many of the recipes we use are from Sarashina Horii in Japan and made within their standard. While no Horii family members are in New York, Sarashina Horii is in good hands with Chef Tsuyoshi Hori. Chef Hori started to make soba at a young age since his family also runs a soba restaurant in Japan. And at the age of 20 he started working at “Sarashina no Sato” in Japan and learned to make handmade soba as well as Sarashina Soba. Throughout his training, he developed a strong desire to keep the soba tradition alive, his goal is to make everyone enjoy soba. Introducing Sarashina soba outside Japan is a big step toward achieving that.

AM: Tell us about your Executive Chef, Tsuyoshi Horiand how he came to Sarashina Horii?

GM RH: Our chef is Tsuyoshi Hori trained at the highly regarded “Sarashina no Sato” in Japan with Yoshinori Horii, the current ninth generation owner of Sarashina Horii. When the Sarashina Horii project was in the works in New York, Tsuyoshi was working in California. When he heard about it, he did not hesitate for a moment to reach out to us to be able to collaborate with Yoshinori again. Tsuyoshi has a strong passion for making soba and honing his craft in the art of making soba.

AM: Can you tell us about soba noodles and why this culinary heritage is being featured for guests to enjoy?

CHEF TH: Soba has a history of more than 300 years and in order to preserve this tradition it was necessary to make soba available to people outside Japan as well. Most people these days look at soba as a healthy alternative compared to the other noodle options, mainly be cause soba is known for its low glycemic index. But soba has more to offer than just a healthy meal. Soba noodles are known for its aroma and refined flavor. Also, it can be enjoyed equally hot or cold. Those who already tried different types of soba should definitely try Sarashina Soba to enjoy a unique experience.

AM: Are there key soba noodles that are available and how are they made?

CHEF TH: We recently started to offer Kawari soba with different ingredients kneaded into the noodles, giving the soba the aroma, taste and color of the ingredient. Every two weeks, we feature a different Kawari Soba. We started with our Shiso Soba a couple of weeks ago and just introduced a new one this week: the Kuro Goma or Black Sesame Soba. Kneading the black sesame into the soba dough gives it that nutty aroma which is quite a different experience compared to the Shiso. We only serve the Kawari soba cold because it’s the best way for to enjoy its aroma and refined taste.

AM: Can you tell us about the ambiance of Sarashina Horii when guests are coming to dine?

GM RH: The New York location has a full bar displaying our selection of sake and Japanese Whiskey, which is different from Japanese locations. Sarashina Horii logo is placed discreetly on the door but our stone mill displayed by the front window always helps indicate where our restaurant is located. Many of our patrons love to take pictures by the window to showcase the stone mill and our logo.

Unlike in Japan, here we do not offer Ozashiki seating where customers can take off their shoes and sit on a flat cushion to enjoy their meal but many of our guests are blown away by the chic design - the soaring dining room features a ceiling installation inspired by soba noodles as well as a rock garden inspired by traditional Japanese temple gardens.

AM: What are 3 appetizers that you suggest that we should try when we eat there?

CHEF TH: I would highly recommend ordering the Tsukune Japanese Duck Meatball, Kakiage Shrimp Tempura with Mitsuba (a parsley-like herb), and Tamagoyaki Egg Omelet appetizers. Tsukune is often made with chicken but we make ours with Rouen duck thigh, it is served on a hot stone plate in a shape of a hamburger steak.

The Kakiage is one of our signature appetizers, we put a lot of effort into it – it has to be carefully fried one at time to preserve its presentation. We also highly recommend guests save some of their crispy kakiage batter flakes for their soba soup coming later as the flake gives it additional flavor.

Lastly, our Tamagoyaki is something you must try. It is common for people to judge a sushi restaurant by their tamago egg cake - you can see how much effort a chef puts into the flavor, showing proficiency and skill. At a soba restaurant, it is important to try tamagoyaki because every soba restaurant’s version will taste slightly different because of the dashi broth that they use. Dashi is a quintessential ingredient for most of our soups and sauces.

AM: What are 3 entrees that we should order when we’re there with family and friends?

CHEF TH: Well, you certainly must try the soba. Hot or cold, you can’t go wrong either but ideally you should try both on your visit. When you eat the soba cold, you can fully enjoy its aroma and texture. It is accompanied by a dipping sauce “soba tsuyu” which is saltier than the hot soba broth. Hot soba is served in a bowl of hot light broth, we make it that way so that guests can enjoy drinking the broth at the end.

Our Sarashina Soba is a must try when visiting the restaurant. When using only the inner most part of buckwheat seed, the noodles are pure white in color with a delicate aroma. The texture is very silky smooth and flavor refined.

Our Duck Soba either hot or cold Kamo Nanban or Kamo-Tsuke is very popular. We locally source our Rouen duck breast from Hudson Valley, which we sous vide right away when the are delivered in order to offer the best flavor. The duck adds great flavor to the soup and pairs well with the leek served in the dipping sauce and soup as well.

AM: Are there 3 desserts that we should be thinking about when ordering?

CHEF TH: Our home-made desserts that should be tried are Matcha Tiramisu, Hoji-cha Blancmange and Blueberry Apricot Pudding. The Matcha Tiramisu is the signature and most popular.

AM: What are 3 cocktails that you suggest that we should have when eating there?

GM RH: Three signature cocktails not to miss are Shitakiri, Sarukani, and Momotaro. The names are all inspired by traditional Japanese folktales. Shitakiri is with mezcal, tequila, chili tincture and yuzu is spicy and smokey – the crowd favorite. Sarukani is made with Japanese gin and shochu and fresh persimmons now in season. Momotaro is our smoked twist on the classic Old-fashioned with Japanese whiskey and limited-edition sake. It is great for whiskey lovers and has a show-stopper presentation with smoke released at the table.

AM: For those with dietary needs such as gluten-free, vegetarian/vegan - what are dishes that you suggest that they should keep in mind?

CHEF TH: We have some meatless options but, unfortunately, we currently do not offer any gluten-free and vegetarian options due to the fact that the dashi stock for our soups, cold dipping sauce and vegetables is bonito-based. And while Sarashina soba is low in gluten, it is not 100% gluten-free.

AM: Tell me about your tasting menu - why were the dishes on it selected.

CHEF TH: In Japan “Soba Kaiseki” is a soba tasting and we wanted to present a similar menu to show there is much more than soba, spanning all the sections of the menu and include ingredients such as “Kaeshi” infused soy sauce that has been aged. Our tasting menu was created to pair well with soba but, of course, hot or cold soba is the centerpiece of the tasting menu.

AM: Are you participating in restaurant week and what are you offering guests?

CHEF TH: Yes, we’re participating and offer a 3-course tasting menu for $59 that features a choice of Salmon Carpaccio or 2 types of Sashimi to start, followed by Sarashina Soba with Vegetable Tempura and choice of hot duck soba, hot mushroom soba, cold soba with a hot dipping broth with duck or mushrooms. For dessert: Hojicha Tea Blancmange; Blueberry Apricot Pudding and Matcha Tiramisu.