This month's cover has been someone that we have watched excitedly over the past years. He hit our radar in 2012/2013 and we were immediately struck by his design aesthetic that ensures that you are the conversation starter and statement in whatever room you occupy! From the craftsmanship, the visual texture, and passion of the designer, Walter Mendez and his Walter Mendez Atelier have been worn by celebrities, iconic entertainers, socialites, and more.
When it comes to designing, it's about creating a world and one that continues to evolve from season to season. We wanted to know more about how he got his start, his creative process, his approach to his RTW, couture, bridal and bespoke; his recent The Golden Cage Exhibition held at The Beverly Hills Hotel, what he's working on, and how he takes time for himself.
ATHLEISURE MAG: I have loved your work since 2012/2013 and certainly no later than 2014! So the fact that we’re chatting right now is definitely a moment!
WALTER MENDEZ: Oh wow, you’ve literally seen the journey and I am honored that you have been aware of my brand for that long! I think that everything that I say in terms of what this collection means to me, you’ll be able to understand a little bit more. So that’s really beautiful, so thank you!
AM: Well thank you! I’m the Co-Founder/Creative + Style Dir of Athleisure Mag as well as being a fashion stylist, so I have followed your work on Instagram and those who have worn your pieces. Your design aesthetic, your approach to bodies whether they are male or female is so amazing. I grew up in a family of designers and product designers. My mom was a couture designer and so I have such an appreciation for you and the space. So I know our readers are going to love it, but I want to tell you thank you for creating this and things that I have looked at when I was in an airport on my way to wherever or when I’m scrolling as I go about my day – the pieces truly transport me away to somewhere else and it’s a vibe! So I thank you for what you have done!
WM: Well thank you, it truly is appreciated. There are moments like yesterday when I was posting and last night I was going through photos it made me say wow. I’m genuinely so proud about what I have accomplished, of my craftsmanship, my aesthetic, my voice as a designer and I’m just so proud of what I know and what I feel that I represent. And not just what I represent to my family, but so many other people out there.
AM: When did you fall in love with fashion?
WM: I would have to say that falling in love with fashion really started early on. I remember being probably 4 or 5 and I just remember putting on my favorite jacket and what was so surreal to me in that memory is that feeling of that jacket. I just felt so cool and the minute that I would put that jacket on I felt that I was owning that room. I remember feeling that feeling and I knew that that was the essence that I wanted to capture in my designs. It was the essence that I want my clients to feel because it’s such a beautiful feeling. I’m sure that you can relate. You have an outfit where you can say, “I know I slay.”
AM: Oh yeah!
WM: I know that when I walk into a room, this outfit shows that I mean business. That feeling, that is the essence of my brand and the essence that I want to give every client of mine. That’s priceless. The energy that you’re able to control your entire day – when you feel good, you’re walking and you’re able to walk to the beat of your own drum, people notice. You attract a different experience.
AM: At what point did you realize that you wanted to be a fashion designer and then that you wanted to create your own namesake collection?
WM: I think that I always played with the idea of being a fashion designer and as someone growing up who didn’t have much, I found myself kind of wanting more. Looking back, I see the beauty in it and I always look at the fact that having nothing allowed me to dream of everything.
You know, we all have the things that spark our interest. We all have our things that we gravitate towards on a level of beauty. Because I’m just that type of person who loves that, I thought, “ok, I may not be able to afford it, and I may not be able to go out and get it, so I’m going to create it.” That’s really where my creativity flourished and I found myself being challenged. I remember my first dresses. I honestly barely only had one sewing class.
But I knew I wanted to play with fabrics and I knew I wanted to play with textures and shapes. So how those dresses came together, I don’t know, but they came together and I saw the vision and the look. It was just so beautiful to see my journey evolve.
AM: I love that!
How do you describe or define your design aesthetic?
WM: My design aesthetic in terms of modern day context, I feel that I design for the main character. For me, if I am dressing you, I’m dressing you to be the star. If you are coming to me, you are going to walk into that event and you are going to own the room. If you want to go to an event and kind of be low key -
AM: Then don’t wear your designs!
WM: Ha ha – I want to give you that full fantasy moment from the minute that you walk into the room and for everyone to want to know you, want to talk to you, give you compliments and for them to be in love with your essence. That is what I give my clients because I know the power and the importance of feeling good and looking good. It’s really about learning to get the most out of a special event. That’s really what it is. Everyone that comes to me, it’s for a special event. I know that the level of production, the level of experience that you’re going to – it’s elevated and more than your average day. I know that I can elevate it to another level.
AM: I will say that there are times when I am watching a red carpet or a music video, there is an ethereal quality whether you’ve designed something that is closer to the body or has various dimensions to it, I can tell when it is one of your pieces that I am looking at. I know it before the credit has been rolled or stated. You can just tell.
WM: Yes!
AM: It’s amazing, it’s absolutely stunning.
What was your feeling when you launched your first brick-and-mortar store? What did that feel like as it is such a huge accomplishment.
WM: It was such a beautiful feeling because for me, I felt that it gave me a home. It was such a beautiful feeling to feel that I have something that is mine and I am focusing on a legacy. Even looking back, in this moment now, I look back at that Atelier – it was beautiful. I’m so proud of it.
Despite being in a different situation than I am now with the level of clientele obviously, my world knowledge, my fashion knowledge – I literally have always tried to make the most out of everything that I have. That is always the advice that I have to myself. It’s about being creative and how do I take it to the next level? How do I challenge myself?
AM: How do you get inspired for each season the you create or for that which is bespoke? Where do you start pulling from?
WM: When I design the collections, I always pull from almost a point of my own personal journey of where I am in that time. So, I always have a lot of self reflection. So what’s my outlook in life, what am I excited about, what intrigues me, what fantasy world would I want to go to next? It’s all a form of a little bit of manifestation and a little bit of a form of intrigue/interest. Like for example, prior to the Golden Cage, I did the Odyssey Collection. For me, I looked at it and at that time, I had traveled the world and I had seen so many beautiful places and it was like, what’s next? So it was the idea of playing with a bit of an outer space world evolved. I started being inspired by different stars, three dimensional Saturn rings, the idea evolved from that and I wanted it to feel modern and sleek and sophisticated – but for it to still have this element of wonder.
That led me to The Golden Cage where I felt that I could do an artistic reflection of my journey. I wanted it to be a love letter to the younger me.
AM: Do you ever look at a fabric – sometimes from a stylist perspective, I see a fabric, a handbag etc and that notion gets stuck in my head and I think about how I can style around that idea for a look or series of looks for an editorial. Have you ever had a nagging item that eventually found its way to being part of a beautiful collection?
WM: Yes and that happens very often! It happens all of the time. Sometimes it can be a physical item that I end up using a prop or it can be a particular movie or music or a certain film. Anything that is able to evoke emotion in me can be used as a form of inspiration. For me, it is so important to capture that essence and then it just evolved. It evolves when you put the different pieces together, it evolves into the next level. For me, it’s like how does this go into a movie – let me create the characters – let me create the story of how can I make all of these dresses that are very much so different but are still part of the same story.
I’m often my very own movie producer, casting director, costume designer, and then it all just makes sense in my head.
AM: You have created this brand that is so coveted by so many people. It’s luxury, it’s on the red carpets, in divas’ residencies, it’s on celebrities, socialites – what does it mean to you to have that kind of impact with the people that want to wear your work and want you to be part of their story when it’s their moment?
WM: It’s truly surreal, it’s a blessing, it’s a privilege. I love what I do and I am so proud of what I do, but I am also blessed that the people that believe in me are able to not just want to wear me, but to be part of my story! I understand that every single client when they are coming to me whether it's a red carpet, an event, a gala whatever it is – I know that you are coming to me because it’s a special moment. The fact that you are choosing your special moment to share it with me and my designs, that to me just speaks volumes.
AM: Obviously you’re known for your RTW collections, couture gowns, and bridal. I love that you were quoted saying that, “fashion was meant to be custom made.” I love that and agree it is such a privilege to have something made with me in mind. Tailoring is always key. Why should people understand this and the importance of tailoring, investment pieces as opposed to spending on items that are not constructed with us in mind and in many ways are throw away.
WM: Yeah, it’s important for me to communicate the fact that fashion is meant to be custom. Because I feel like it is almost a fogotten fact. When you think about history, traditionally, royalty – everything was custom made.
Even if you weren’t royalty, you would get custom made because things weren’t mass produced. The challenge with mass production is that we all have different body types. I mean as a person, one arm is different than another. We are custom built as people. We have individual stories and we have individual needs. So even the girls that are the same weight size – one can have a little bit of a shorter torso, one can have a longer torso -
AM: One boob is bigger than the other.
WM: Yeah there are so many details that are just custom to your body. So when something is mass produced, they’re trying to find the middle ground. They’re looking at hopefully the most amount of people that can buy it. So if you’re off slightly by any way, it’s never going to fit. There is nothing more important than a tailored piece for you.
AM: One of the things that I was talking about at the beginning – I’ve always been a fan of your social media. I love how it’s about you, your line, your collection. I love seeing you with Olivier Rousteing, Creative Director of Balmain, and your account reflects such a vibe of authenticity, this world of luxury, globetrotting, etc. How important is your social media to your brand to showcase to those that are your clients, potential future clients, friends, or people who are simply conduits that can refer others to you?
WM: I like my social media, because to me it’s more than ever, I want to be a beacon of representation for my people. I love sharing all of these experiences because I want to show other people who maybe are from my same background, same challenges, or just not your perfect typical white picket fence All American life – there are people like us in those spaces. These spaces are for all of us and I always tell my family, especially my cousins, and my friends that my success is your success. I want to prove to you all – people like us that we can be in these spaces as well. I think that some of is is being done for the inner me. I literally grew up thinking that someone like me a POC would be in these spaces.
Growing up for me, every brown person that I knew, they weren’t in a place of status or those positions. So growing up for me, there was a period of time where I wondered, “can I not get there?” Is that not how it works? More than ever, I want to highlight to people that I want to show them that we can get there. You can get there and you can do it wherever you want and you have to believe in yourself. We have to start somewhere.
AM: If you don’t see it, it can be hard to visualize for some people when they don’t have a road map. You do have to start somewhere. You have to put in the work and you can have this lovely life.
WM: Also, besides representation, in addition to my skin color, I also look at all of the queer youth to show people in the LGBTQIA community that there are people in positions of status, in positions of wealth and in environments of wealth. We don’t see that enough and I want to show people that everything that makes you, you can make it into what makes you strongest to what makes your career and to be successful at it is what is truly a blessing!
AM: Tell me about your fashion exhibition at The Beverly Hills Hotel. It looked stunning as I have seen the pictures as well as coverage on this. Why did you want to do this, what was the idea behind it, and how long did it take you to do as it was like a Met Gala Costume Institute’s Exhibition. (Editor’s Note: The Met Gala is the first Monday in May and is the Oscars for fashion. It launched in 1948 and was the brain child of fashion publicist Elanor Lambert who played a key role in launching NYFW. Although it has evolved since it’s inception, it's current iteration includes a red carpet with noted celebs dresses by designers that attend this event in a specific theme. The Met Gala is a charity and fundraiser for The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute. The Gala has traditionally been timed to mark the opening of its annual fashion exhibition. For 2024, the Met Gala’s dress code was The Garden of Time and the exhibit for this year is Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion and can be seen at the Museum and features 250 rare items from the Costume Institute’s permanent collection. The exhibit spans over 400 years of fashion history and includes Schiaparelli, Dior, Givenchy, etc. This year’s exhibit will include 3 main zones – Land, Sea, and Sky which pays tribute to the natural world).
WM: So the reason why The Beverly Hills Hotel was the place that I wanted to have that moment was that I have always been inspired by the 1957 Cadillac ad that was shot at The Beverly Hills entrance. I’m sure you know what I am talking about based on that reaction.
I have always seen that photo as such a glamorous moment in life. I have always been allured by it. I have always gravitated towards it so when it came to creating and curating an event for my next collection, I felt that I would use that moment of inspiration. I need to give my people that moment in a modern day life. To be able to be someone who looks up to the entire Metropolitan Museum and what they represent, an event like the Met Gala, I needed to make sure that whatever I deliver was up to that level because I know that I can. I know that I can, I know that I deserve it, and I know that my clothing is worthy of it. I know that my clothing is meant to be in those spaces because I see my work as my art and I know that what I can do, nobody else can do. I am truly and authentically me in my essence and in my work. It’s a mixture of me being so proud of my work and me being educated and making sure that what is being presented is not only going to impress me, my family, and my friends, but is also going to impress my clients, my peers, and anyone in the fashion industry. Because to me, it's such an honor to be able to get the feedback from people that know what they are talking about to be like, “wow, I’m impressed.”
AM: It was stunning to see it. What did it feel like to be in the room with everyone from your friends, family, clients, etc. to toast you like that as well as this body of work?
WM: It felt like the different dimensions of my spirit were coming together and being acknowledged. Like I was being celebrated for my creativity while also being comfortable in my skin, in my queerness, in my creativity, in my aura while celebrating my family and being a beacon of light for everyone that has not only paved the way for me to be there but also paved the way for people who will walk after me. To me, I want to be that leading force and to show people, if I can do it, you can do it. You just have to believe in it and you have to work hard. You have to be consistent because this just doesn’t happen overnight.
That’s why I am so appreciative that you love and are aware of my journey because you have seen the elevation of my work, my craft, and my dedication.
AM: And consistency.
WM: Yeah, you have to wake up everyday and give it your best. I always believe that it doesn’t matter how fast you are moving, as long as you never stop moving. As long as you can say that you are better than you were yesterday, that is all that matters.
AM: Absolutely – 100%!
What is the next project that you’re going to be working on that we should keep an eye out for?
WM: That’s a hard one! There is a lot going on, but I do like to be mysterious as I always like to surprise people. Even for this event when I was sending out the invites, it was “you are invited to the Walter Experience.” So many people like my close friends, were asking what it was, what it meant and I told them, it’s a Walter Experience – when you get there, you will know! I wanted it to be an experience and a moment where I could show me and the way that I process things and it’s such a complex way. Even when I was working on the set design with the team and Butterfly Floral, I was like, “it has to be bigger, it has to be grander.” They were trying to process it and asked me if I was sure. They wondered if I wanted things so giant.
AM: Yes!
WM: And I was like, “YES!” It is important for me to have people to be able to look up because that is a moment that for me, reminds me of my childhood. Always feeling like I was looking up and having that sense of wonder and exploration. Because this was a love letter to my inner me, I had to give that perspective.
AM: I’m sure you’re coming to the end on working SS25 in terms of the collection side. Are you going to be showing here in NY, are you going to be showing in LA – what can you tell us about that?
WM: I can definitely tell you that that is what we are in talks on with the team. It’s really amazing to see not just the response here in the States, but also the international response from other fashion capitals of the world. To hear them tell me that they love what I do and that they would like us to show there and to be part of their calendar for Fashion Week. It’s so surreal because every season that I come out, I am so excited to see the Fashion Weeks around the world and to have them now that these companies and production companies now want me to be part of those Fashion Week calendars it’s a blessing! It just makes me so happy because those moments it's so much but in a blessing! It just makes me so happy because those moments it's so much but in those times I come alive! I know that I am meant to do that. Something comes over me and I just get comfortable in those spaces.
The fact that I am able to do what I love and be authentically me and then be able to produce art that is so widely celebrated, it’s such a beautiful feeling.
AM: You have worked on so many dresses so I know this will sound difficult. Are there 3 that stick out in your head? Whether it’s the dresses themselves or a moment that generated making them, or the clients themselves? Are there 3 moments/dresses/looks in your career where you were like, yes this is what I really love?
WM: Yes there are 3 and yes it is very hard to narrow it down to that. I’ll pick 3 that have just felt like full circle moments for me and have just touched me to my core. Because to me, now I am at a position where it’s very important for me to always celebrate that child and celebrate that inner child that dared to dream because that’s literally where it all started.
I would say that one moment that was really special was the first time that I dressed Beyoncé (Mufasa: The Lion King, Homecoming: A Film by Beyoncé, Renaissance: A Film by Beyoncé) as it happened on my birthday. I just remember sitting there thinking that Queen B just redefined my brand! I will forever remember not just my birthday, but the first time that I got to dress her. It was a beautiful moment because the first that that I got to dress her, it was the first reveal post twins. All eyes were on her and everyone was watching. So to be able to design a piece for her that not only made her comfortable but also made her look absolutely stunning, it was a huge moment where all eyes were on her and to be part of that was just amazing and it was a blessing. So that would be one of my absolute favorites.
Another favorite piece that I absolutely loved was working with Mariah Carey (Precious, The Butler, Girls Trip) for her Vegas Residency and to see my gown on all of the billboards all over Vegas and even here in LA the billboards promoting her. That residency in Vegas was such a surreal moment because I had a flashback to the younger me when I was in 7th grade in my ESL class because English is my second language. It hit me because I literally picked Hero by Mariah Carey and that was the song that I chose to translate to present it to the class!
AM: I love that song!
WM: I had completely forgotten about that and then it didn’t hit me until that moment. I went to the opening night of the residency and she closed the night with that song. It was such a beautiful moment for me to get to experience and for me to be able to look back at that little boy and think, wow. The journey to go from that moment in my life to this one! It was just a full circle moment. That was a really special moment.
Then the third one, I have to say that that one is hard. There are so many special moments. I mean there are so many people. I am going in between Selena Gomez (Only Murders in the Building, Selena + Chef, Selena Gomez: My Mind & Me), JLo (Enough, Hustlers, Atlas), Paris Hilton (The Simple Life, Paris in Love, This is Paris) – there are so many moments! Even my Oscars moment last season was so special. It’s really tough!
AM: I recognize that as I knew it would be!
WM: There’s also 2 epic Beyoncé moments!
As a whole, I remember growing up as a kid, I had all of these posters of singers. Remember those tabloid magazines like J14? I had all of these posters of these celebrities over my bed. Every celebrity on that wall, I dressed! Like Britney Spears (Kenan & Kell, Will & Grace, Crossroads), working with her was such a beautiful experience for me because my first exposure to American music and the English language – I learned to speak through the voices of beautiful talented artists like Beyoncé, Mariah, Britney and now here I am at a point where they believe in my art.
AM: You have left such a mark on the fashion industry, what do you want your legacy to be?
WM: I think that my legacy is wrapped in the word authenticity. I really push all of my clients that I dress and I do it with the way that I present myself and people really finding their true beauty and authenticity. We all know what we want.
When we’re all going somewhere and we know what we want, we say I want to wear this, I wish I could wear that etc. We know what we want and sometimes it’s a matter of being afraid or not wanting to do too much and some people wonder whether wearing something will get people talking. But you know what you want so if you know what you want, why not?
That is what I want my legacy to be. I want it to be about authenticity. So when people come to me, I tell them to tell me what they’re dreams are. I want to be let in and no limits so I know the vibe, the essence, and who you are as a person. What do you want to show? Forget what people are going to say – it’s about you – what do you want? I try to do that with even the way that I dress. I dress for me and I’m not trying to follow a trend or to be like anyone else. I’m doing me and that lets me radiate on my own terms and on my own level.
AM: As someone who I know your schedule is always packed, when you’re not designing or working on the next project, how do you take time for yourself? Do you find that time because I know when you work for yourself it’s tough to turn it off and we have to figure out ways that we can focus on ourselves so that we are infusing our energy back to us. That way we can be our best selves for everything that we are doing?
WM: I do try to make it a time to give time for myself. I do know that it takes a lot whether I’m meeting with my clients or I am going into fittings. I invest all of my in my work and with people so it’s very draining, but I always make it a point to make sure that I have my me time. My gym is in the mornings, my yoga classes, those are my me times. I try to make any moment that I can with me – even if I am just walking around the city. I put my headphones on and I put a song on that makes me feel good. I am runway walking down the street – that is me! It’s just what brings me joy, it clears my mind, and it sort of allows me to process it. Because despite it being a lot of work and very demanding, and a lot to process and deal with and manage because I have a large team at the Atelier from pattern makers, sewers, hand beaders, and teams of assistants, the PR team, the Social Media team – it’s a lot to drive the energy of my village. It takes a village, but to me, I am in charge of driving that energy and it’s very draining. Now when I say draining, I mean it in the most loving way. To me, draining is not a negative word. It’s sort of like, if you love to run marathons, it’s going to be draining – but you love it! But I always make it fun. This is fun. I live in a fantasy world. Because I love it, I find those me moments in there.
AM: I totally get and feel the same way!
WM: Even talking to you right now! I’m having fun!
AM: That’s the thing! We get to do so many things and to engage with so many people that you may feel tired, but when you love what you’re doing you’re always able to dip into that well. Somehow, you figure out how you can refresh yourself.
In this industry and I know you know of people like this as well, they went out for something that they wanted to do, it didn’t work out and then they either stopped or soured on the experience. Then there are those such as yourself that wanted it, found a way, and they are living exactly what they wanted and I always find that to be amazing and energizing as I love knowing those stories especially when it’s from those that I have admired their work from their beginnings and have been able to see that trajectory over time. It’s such a vibrant community to be part of.
PHOTOGRAPHY CREDITS | FRONT/BACK COVER, PG 16 Chris Martin | PG 19, 20, 23, 24, 28, Alex W Photography | PG 31 - 34 for 9LIST STORI3S Kelly Balchim |
Read the JUN ISSUE #102 of Athleisure Mag and see BEHIND THE SEAMS | Walter Mendez in mag.
