NYFW SS25 EDIT

As you know, NYFW happens 2 times a year as it looks ahead to the Fall/Winter collections as well as those in the Spring/Summer. It's a time for the fashion community of editors, retailers, buyers, celebs, socialites, and enthusiasts to come together as they navgate a hectic series of days that include presentations, runway shows, previews, lunches, dinners, and after parties. By attending these functions, you get a bird's eye view on what to expect in terms of trends, silhouettes, hues and more. What we see here in NY will mirror or extend into what takes place for the other fashion calendars that occur in London, Milan, and Paris (you'll also see that those shows may also add elements as well). You can see the top colors from NYFW SS25 via our friends at Pantone.

This month, we hit the shows and as we enjoy sharing with you a selection of what we saw in Mens and Womens fashion this season here in NY, we'll highlight these shows. In addition, it's always fun when we cover the Backstage of a show as it allows us to see how the look and creative direction includes other facets of the overall look.

We kicked off NYFW with New York Men's Day which allows you to see a series of designers throughout the day via presentations or hybrid presentation/runway shows that are divided by a morning as well as an afternoon session. In addition to designers that showed (A. POTTS, Clara Son, Earthling VIP, Sivan, The Salting, of—nothing, Sermon Series, STAN, Tarpley, and Terry Singh), we also enjoyed vignettes where sponsors Sperry and Victorinox were also in these studios. The designers that showed their presentations also collaborated with Victorinox on designing cases that were within the vein of their collection for the upcoming season which were on display.

THE SALTING SS25

For the presentation/hybrid runway show of The Salting, we were transported to an Italian seaside complete with a dock that the models stood on for this genderless collection. The weather worn hues of blues, charcoal, olive, neutrals, and carnelian were seen throughout the collection and models. This nautical sensability was amplified with choice accessories that included large intricately knotted brooches, hats, and other details that made this feel like a line that you could wear for a number of moments in your lifestyle. The use of floral prints and seersucker was a visual texture that we found pleasing whether we saw the collection together during the presentation or separately when they did their runway portion.

CFDA designers Michael Ward and Manel Garcia Espejo noted that they were, "celebrating the Italian seaside and Italian life - village life by the sea. We leaned into '60s and '70s Italian film and we studied mostly Luchino Visconti (Death in Venice, Ludwig, The Stranger), Federico Fellini (8 ½, La Dolce Vita, Ginger and Fred) and we pulled a lot from the film Death in Venice - the opulence of it, and we landed with this."

Without a question, this was a collection that we truly enjoyed seeing and dare we say, our favorite.

IG @newyorkmensday

@thesaltingnyc

CLARA SON SS25

This menswear presentation leaned into a dream Clara Son had on her bicycle and the elements of nature that she rode beside which is seen in the color palette of this assortment that gives a nod to the coastal area with mountains, rocks, and flowers for her Reminiscence collection.The lines was enhanced with biker hats, seats, and functional bags.

IG @clarasonstudio

EARTHLING.VIP SS25

Part of enjoying a show is how it is presented to you and as soon as we saw multiple frames in the studio space with models walking in and out of them at various points, we were really excited about seeing the menswear and womenswear that were part of this show that included embellished denim, leather jackets, graphic tees and hardware laden leather weekender bags for a rocker on holiday vibe for this LA based brand.

IG @earthling.vip

STAN SS25

Another show of note to share from NYMD comes from STAN a line that is handcrafted in LA by designer and Co-Founder, Tristan Detwiler who is a, "craftsman by trade. My medium: dirt stained remnant of tattered, worn textiles, ingrained with stries of hand woven fibers. There is history awaiting discovery, buried in the deepest corners of the world. A medium that allows me to peer into faraway culture, ritual, religion, and family heritage. I live in perpetural search for such things. Stories relayed from the past; translated through centuries. The goal of STAN is to re-contextualize long lost memories to live on." He has a passopn for sustainable and meaningful practice in fashion as we continue to navigate those that are mass produced and involved in greenwashing.

This SS25 collection is made from 100% sustainable materials that includes deadstock and recycled fabrics. In terms of his work as a whole, he enjoys upcycling vintage quilts to make a one of a kind garment and has used antique fabrucs, bed linens, and grain sacks. This allows him to search the world for rare materials that then become translated into his beachy assortment of sets, outerwear, and separates.

This season, a robe-style coat was made from Portuguese wool blankets from the early 20th century and striped suits were made from 19th century-style French ticking fabric. This material would traditionally be found in matress covers. Embellished pieces from this collection came from vintage beads and crystals that were sourced from his mother who was a jewelry designer in the '80s.

IG @stanclothing

CHUKS COLLINS SS25

Prior to attending Chuks Collins SS25 presentation that was held at Chelsea Factory, we met him at the South African Consulate General. In addition to being a designer, he is the Co-Founder of The African Fashion Council which was hosting 5 designers who had a compilation show the day after his. During the press conference/mixer, we met the 2024 Jaguar South Africa x #GiveHerACrown designers (Gugu Peteni of Gugubygugu; Tsakani Mashaba of HAMETHOP, Thando Ntuli of MUNKUS, Manthe Ribane of her namesake brand, and Keneilwe Mothoa of Neimil) and listened to an engaging Q+A that was moderated by former Essence Editor in Chief, Constance White. Being able to hear about their brand, how the created, the challenges that they face, and what is on the horizon for them was truly interesting. We also heard from members of the South African Consulate General as well as they were the hosts in partnership with Jaguar South Africa of this mixer which includes wines from the region and esteemed guests of both brands. The importance of introducing South African designers and having their work seen at NYFW was a huge part of the initiative.

Chuks Collins spoke at this event and was excited to share these artists that we would see later in the week. When we arrived at his show, we saw an array of looks that blended African and Western design as well as a mix of tradition and modernity. He noted that he was, "grateful for the opportunity to keep creating and expressing myself through my work. This collection means a lot to me, and the homecoming process has been very healing for me. The collection is deeply inspired by my African and Western roots, reflecting a blend of cultures and experiences. Having grown up in Africa and Europe, and now living in the US, I have been empowered and nurtured by many have been empowered and nurtured by many women, including my grandmother, who taught me how to sew. This cultural tapestry forms the foundation of 'Nné,' infusing each piece with rich narratives and a deep sense of heritage.”

IG @iamchukscollins

FREDERICK ANDERSON SS25

We also attended Frederick Anderson's SS25 show which was held at the DiMenna Center for Classical Music at the Baryshnikov Arts Center. This collection was inspired by his travels through Northern Africa and how he connects to his experiences there. Looks that hit the runway included lightweight garments as well as those that have stunning lace and beaded ensembles. The visual texture that was included on the runway really let you see his cohesive story.

IG @frederickanderson_designer

BACKSTAGE | BRUCEGLEN SS25

We enjoy attending shows, but it's also great to be able to head backstage to see how the look is coming together. We made our way to the Gansevoort Hotel in the Meatpacking District to see BruceGlen's line which is known for vibrant color and is designed by twin brothers! This season, with a theme of Out of the Blue, there was a bit of whimsy and childlike wonder with the looks that were part of this presentation!

We sat down with Celebrity Manicurist, Miss Pop whose work has been in countless NYFW as well as global Fashion Weeks, editorials of a number of magazines, and celebs that have included Gwen Stefani, Janelle Monae, Ariana Grande, and Beanie Feldstein. We wanted to know about how she came to being a Celebrity Nail Artist, why she wanted to be part of this show, how the nails are part of this (as well as telling us about another show that she was excited to talk about the nail direction), and she gave us tips on how we can make our nails looks amazing with tips and tools!

MISS POP: I love this on you! Oh my God, are you wearing Ophelia – is this Zoya Ophelia? That was what I was working with yesterday!

ATHLEISURE MAG: No, it’s not.

MP: It’s literally one of the colors that I was working with yesterday that we did on a man.

AM: This is Sundays Nail Studio gel so I don’t know what they call this shade.

MP: I love that place! Amy and I are friends!

AM: I met her a few years ago right when the salon launched in NoMad. She is so sweet!

MP: She is a wonderful human being, I recommend that people go there all the time. I don’t work at a salon, but I always suggest there.

AM: It’s so clean there and so zen.

MP: Well, it’s because she’s a manicurist. It makes a really big difference when you’re a licensed manicurist. You walk in and you’re like, oh all the laws are followed here. I’ve gotten to know her a little bit and I have been there a couple of times and she is lovely!

AM: I love that! Well we’re in the thick of it right now as BruceGlen’s show will be starting shortly and I always love being backstage to see the look come together. Being able to sit down with you to talk about the direction of the nails for this show will definitely be exciting for our readers to know about. Before I delve into that, when did you realize that you wanted to be a Nail Artist?

MP: Oh wow that is a question! I actually got into nails because I was sick and stuck in bed for a couple of years. I was laid flat out in bed so that really limits your options on things that you can do. You know, I had done nail art as a tween. In middle school, I was told that it was distracting to other kids and they made me stop! It was devastating, but I went to a good school and I moved on with my life and then years and years went by and then almost 15 years went by and I got sick. I was stuck in bed and I always loved having my nails, like, bright cherry, my lipstick red every week. But once I got sick, I realized that I had so much time on my hands. I literally started painting my [nails], that was one of the few things I could do. It also made me feel better because when you're recovering. I mean, you see this? I look like this every day but when you're sick, you can't do your hair right or get in my dress. I couldn't do any of the things. I could, normally done, I had meningitis.

AM: Oh my.

MP: And uh, it was just - people wanted to visit me and I was like, visit what? Yeah, what are you visiting? Like it's like I don't have anything good to talk about. I'm like a shell of myself.

AM: Wow!

MP: I can't even watch TV. I can't even tell you what I'm watching on TV because you can't tilt my head. So I was like, what am I gonna do? And then it occurred to me that I could probably paint my nails like this.

AM: Oh wow.

MP: And so, I started doing it that way and then, by the time I picked it up for four hours, I was enrolled in beauty school. It took me like a year and a half to get there but I did it okay?

AM: Absolutely!

MP: I did it because after doing my nails so much I was like, I just want to know how to do it right. So I went to beauty school for my own entertainment and I was on Tumblr when I was sick posting my nails. And I just became friends with nail artists all around the world like Illustrated Nail and there was like a crew of women online that were just like sharing tips and tricks like all of them right now are big nail artists. And we also sort of, like, became friendly and we were trading tips and it was such a beautiful space and so after I went to beauty school, I just was like, you know what, I actually think that I am done. So I went to NYU and then beauty school which is not the financially intelligent order. But uh, here I am.

AM: So what is your favorite part about creating nail art?

MP: Ok, the thing about nail art is, it's really ephemeral. Like I, I want something different every day. It’s the chance to give yourself what you want.

AM: Right.

MP: Right, literally every day, or every week. Yeah, I'm a nail polish girl and Zoya's nail polish. So I really align with the brand. I like natural nails and I wear natural nails because of when I was sick so I'm very conscious about the products I use and I'm allergic to acrylics. So, um, it's a common allergy actually. So what I like, is the opportunity to change and to give myself exactly what I want in the moment and to, like, celebrate the now and the moment! Like, this, the hair, the makeup, all of this - I do that for you. You're welcome. That's how I'd like the world to see me, but the nails I do for me. It’s what I see of myself. So, for me, it’s just an opportunity to complete what I want and to make myself happy to entertain myself.

AM: I mean, that’s amazing!

What's the inspiration behind the nails that are in the BruceGlen show?

MP: Oh my God. So the reason I really wanted to work with BruceGlen was because they're dopamine dressing.

AM: Yeah.

MP: You're so happy when you’re wearing their clothes!

AM: I came in with them on the elevator and you felt it.

MP: Yeah, you’re in their world. I felt just like the the joy coming off of it! Their clothes spark joy. So I really wanted to work with them because I just thought that that was the fashion I want to be part of. Like I think to be able to bring that out in clothes and to make yourself so happy - I mean, that's part of what I like to do with nails!

AM: Absolutely!

MP: Even when I want to wear black nails!

So today their collection is all about dreams and I took the color we're doing today for Zoya is, we're calling it Dream Blue and I keep joking because the name is Walker. That is like, Sleepwalker Blue.

AM: Oh!

MP: That's something because their show is so dreamy and it’s really something that is part of this season which is about fantasy. The idea of stepping outside of this world and going somewhere far more beautiful. I mean not that this world isn't beautiful, but we might be having a moment that isn't.

AM: Exactly!

MP: We might be going through some things.

AM: Exactly.

MP: So that's why we're doing a dreamy blue and having something that is bright and cheerful.

AM: It's beautiful.

MP: And it's like finest.

AM: That's amazing. And, you know, if we were doing - for those of us that might do our nails at home because we're in between sessions, what are three tools we should always have in our kit?

MP: I mean, I only do my nails at home and I highly encourage it.

AM: I think you are fortunate because you are coordinated and a professional! When I do mine, it's all over the place and I wouldn’t let anyone see that!

MP: A lot of people say that but, it took me six months and if you do your nails every week for six months, you'll figure it out. It's all muscle memory. You have 2 hands with the same things on both sides.

AM: Well, both hands are still different.

MP: Yes, you have a dominant hand and that will be your easier hand and I'd be lying. If you look at my Instagram, I'm always taking photos of my left hand, so I would be lying if I told you that my right hand is equal, but I can get it done. Um and I also think you have to be like patient with yourself. Like it's gonna be hard at first, but anything worth learning or doing - you never do it right the first time! This is also paint. It's not - you're not painting yourself with like a tattoo!

AM: Ok, I hear that.

MP: So this is my number one. This was worth the price of admission to be in beauty school. This is this is you need this. So, what I love about this is that it's a paintbrush. This is a Simply Simmons #4, filbert head, short handle.

AM: Oh wow.

MP: Available at Dick Blick, the art supply store, and even Michael's and all of them. And so what I learned at Beauty School, is you dip that in remover - acetone-based remover, non-acetone base remover, really doesn't matter. And that will get in between and clean it off the skin.

AM: Oh, right!

MP: I've been a professional manicurist now since 2012 and I still get polish on everyone's skin that I do. This is what I use.

AM: Okay.

MP: It's also great for like, you know, when you lay a line down and you're like, oh, that wasn't smooth.

AM: Yeah.

MP: Like it's like a jaggedy little you can see where the brush touched, you just go swoop and now you have like a properly even one.

AM: That’s a great tool!

MP: So okay, I just saved you $2,500 going to beauty school, you're welcome.

The other thing I love is Base Coat. I'm using Zoya Anchor Base Coat. I also love, that Zoya has the Naked Manicure Base Coat and their Naked Manicure Perfectors. I like that you can do pink, you can do buff, you can do nudes. It doesn't matter. But they're enriching for your nails. So it's like using a strengthener but it's also like a little bit of a sheer tint.

AM: Yeah.

MP: So I love that and then I apply the color over it. I either wear it bare like that or I color over it.

So the first thing you want to do when you want to give yourself a manicure, is to cleanse your nail bed.

AM: Yup!

MP: I don't go so far as to use alcohol. Some people do or they, buff their nails. But you don’t have to buff your nails. If you just slightly dehydrate the nail bed, you're gonna basically get the same effect without disrupting that. The top layer of your nail is the most keratin rich to me. You don't want to disrupt that unless it's flaking, or peeling.

AM: Right.

MP: So I love Base Coat. So I cleanse my nail bed with a little remover. We're using this Zoya Remove Plus, which is like the greatest. So when you apply using Remove Plus, to first, dehydrate the nail bed. So that when your application goes on, you're starting from a surface that lacks oil, that last debris, it’s a cleansed nailbed. But you know what I also love?

AM: Yeah?

MP: Ok so my other 2 tips I’m going to hit you with. So Cuticle Oil, I know that people are going to think, what does that have to do with my long lasting manicure?

AM: Yup.

MP: It's because it’s not only great for your skin and your hands look good, but your nails getting everything, it needs to stay strong and resilient. And it will make your manicure last a couple extra days if you apply Cuticle Nail Oil every night. The other thing you learn at Beauty School is to seal the free edge. Like every stroke you do, make sure you do it to the rim of your nails and that's a little bit harder, if your nails are below the fingertip. It's still possible and you can always go in with your cleanup brush and get the skin. That’s called Capping the Free Edge.

AM: I love when my manicurist does that!

MP: I like doing it first, not last.

AM: Really, I feel when I have it, it's last.

MP: Because I feel like when you do it last, it gives a little.

AM: Like an edge or a bit of a lift as sometimes I’ve had it where you feel that ridge.

MP: I feel like when you do it at the end it can lay not as smoothly as I want it to.

AM: Yeah, I have had that happen a few times and I find since I wear gels usually, so for 2 weeks it becomes a tactile point that I am constantly touching as it stands out from my nail not visually, but when I am running my finger over it. But I get why you do it in the stage that you do.

MP: Yeah, that’s just me and it’s a personal thing. There are other manicurists that do it the other way. For me, it's just my order of operations, it’s not the standard.

AM: What are the hues for Fall that we should be looking into. For me, regardless of the time of year, I tend to lean towards colors that look like they are black but they are another color. For me Ophelia or the brand I am wearing that look similar to it, although it’s not in that “shade that looks like it could be black”, it’s such a great foggy tone that I love the Brown/Mauvaise of it all. I’m starting to want to play with those deep chocolates as a bit of a switch up.

MP: It’s crazy, because when I saw you, I thought you were wearing Ophelia, which is, what we did yesterday at the THEOPHILIO show yesterday.

AM: I’m so bummed that I missed the backstage and that show, but this season has been hectic and the timing didn’t work. But in looking at the images of the show and the nails, I really loved it!

MP: Do you want me to tell you about those looks because they were so fun!

AM: Yes please!

MP: Ok so first let me talk about the colors of Fall. This is so fun. So for fall right now, we're looking at, I keep calling them, Reality Bites Reds. It's like yeah like what Janeane Garofalo and what Winona Ryder would have worn then circa 1994.

AM: Yup!

MP: It’s all about those Reds and those are gonna change for Spring. We're gonna go right back to Cherry.

AM: Oh yeah.

MP: So get it out in Fall. I also really love, like a chocolate brown, like I've always been a chocolate brown, girl, the nail polish that made me, the shade that changed my life. was Chanel's Vamp.

AM: Same girl, same!

MP: My mom bought it for herself and I took it from her with the matching lipstick and that was it. I was done! My life was made! I was way too young to be wearing lipstick and it didn't matter. I like, okay still to this day, that is the shade.

Now one thing I love about Ophelia this like dark brown is that, people always wonder when they're doing nudes, what nude will match my skin tone, right? That can be a really tricky question to answer. One way to answer that question is to say, well, what color is my hair?

AM: Okay.

MP: You think of your skin as being your neutral, but your hair is a color that's existing in your beauty look. And when you paint your nails, it draws the eye up to your face.

AM: That's true.

MP: Aka, the money maker.

AM: Okay, I’m with you!

MP: So, I love doing nails that are nude or neutral that match my hair color, so I love chocolate brown. And I think that, you know, like if you have jet black hair or jet black nails, it’s a nude neutral that you don’t think of. And it’s a lot easier to match than your skin tone, I think.

AM: That’s really smart and I don’t think that I have heard anyone say that before!

MP: Oh yeah, I was inspired. I put it on Beanie Feldstein (Lady Bird, American Crime Story: Monica Lewinsky, The Humans) that way. Especially when Fall rolls around, it's just the perfect time to get into those chestnut browns, dark chocolate browns, in your case, some deep blue – which is gorgeous!

AM: I love deep blue!

MP: Yeah. You know! It's so fun and the other way I like to eliminate the challenge of how to find the perfect nude for you, because I really do think that that’s hard!

AM: 100%

MP: I never wear a nude because, yeah, I'm just not natural. That's not who I am - natural. That’s s not for me supernatural, now, we're talking. So speaking of supernatural - so yesterday for the show for THEOPHILIO SS25. So we did skin tone, we did Nyssa which is like uh like a caramel and Ophelia which is like a dark chocolate brown. Yeah, honestly I thought you were wearing it. And then over it, we put my favorite Zoya shade Leia which is this sparkly opalescent sheer that turns every shade into opal gorgeous magic! Even if the skin tone and the color you chose isn't perfect, when you add a layer of rainbow over it, you’re catching that opalescence, and it tones it to your skin. Wow. So it's a good cheat and it's also a good trend. Like right now, definitely for Spring you're going to be seeing like even nudes aren't flat.

AM: Right.

MP: We're making them sparkle magic. Like, we're chroming them.

AM: Much like your phone case - love!

MP: Oh, thanks Amazon. Full stop. [Miss Pop is showing behind the scenes images from the show to showcase the nails looks that took place here and here] So here are some shots from yesterday

AM: Yes! That's the color because I said what color is that. It definitely felt like a whimsical edge and it looked beautiful on all of the models!

MP: I know right? So this is what we put, black, um, Willa which is our black. Then over it, we put Apple, which is like a green glitter. This is Carrie, which is a yellow gold, and then this deep purple, which you obviously would love. Um, this is Mimi, and we just use the bottle brush and brush it over the black. So it gave it this like Glam Dimension and then it looked very much like chrome. So like you don't have to go to the salon and get gel, you can with your natural nails, at home, just paint on Zoya in the bottle.

AM: Wow

MP: Look at that. I recommend putting black down first because I think it makes it chromier. It gives you more of that effect. It gives it a dimension. It gives it depth. Like anytime you want to get your glitter dimension like put black down first or dark. It's like it's like the way high contrast works with black and white. Yeah, you're doing that with the glitter.

AM: Wow.

MP: Light and Dark. Black is the absence of light. White is all the colors swirling together and glitter is light catching. So, it's like kind of the same theory.

Now this Is the caramel color I was telling you about and it's an opalescent glitter over it and when you put it on a hand, oh my God. I can't even tell!

AM: I was looking at the pictures and I was stunned!

MP: I’m trying to find you a picture of a woman who had it on her. No, I only had the oh no, it's right here. Like look at that nude. Like that's it. And It is. It's a nude, but it has that Chrome finish. It's like your sunglasses.

AM: I love the effect of these Carrera’s they’re my favorites to wear.

MP: Like I had a minute. So the stylist for that show is Christine Nicholson. And she is brilliant and she's a nail queen like, oh, okay, I've done her nails. Like I've known her for years. I did her nails years ago. She has great nail taste, and she knew exactly what she wanted.

AM: Boom.

MP: So this is the gold glitter and then we actually put it on the men too.

AM: Because I saw that and I said, oh my God, this is amazing. And I'm like, oh!

MP: As you can see, this is Ophelia do you see it and now you know I’m not full of ish? See this color on this guy Thursday. He was delightful. I love his name also.

AM: Her mani looks great.

MP: And the men were so excited to get their nails done. So, I did him and Noah, oh, Moe, I'm sorry. This is Moe. Moe made my Fashion Week.

AM: But even with the leopard print, it looks so good with that.

MP: I was like, is that going to be too much? And then I told myself, no that thought is too much! Do what you want!

AM: It really came together beautifully.

MP: This is Nema and he had the deep purple glitter so it’s subtle. It only catches the light, to me this was more of like a cat eye than a chrome. They were so excited to get their nails done and they were so kind about it. So I told him, you're making my Fashion Week because he was so happy. He was like, “I never get nails.” This is so fun. I love it. Like, look at his hair.

AM: He looks happy.

MP: And then you see the nail. The black is laid down first and then the green is right out of the bottle. This color is called Apple.

Oh that Jawaraw.

AM: I saw him last year at Prabal Gurung’s show.

MP: Yes, the last time we had worked together was actually 2020 February in Milan.

AM: Oh wow.

MP: We did Pucci together. The town shut down and so we were joking about that backstage. I was like, man, glad everyone made it out of Milan.

So doing the men was super fun that I mean that's certainly you know a personality statement for men now too. What else can I tell you with the chrome? I mean I think everything's just going super iridescent rainbow glitter magic, that's what I like to call it, but some people also call it Chrome.

AM: I like glitter magic better.

MP: Unicorns, sprinkles, prancing, rainbows across your nails. That's how I would sell it, but other people just call it chrome and save themselves some words!

IG @bruceglen

@misspopnails

PHOTOGRAPHY CREDITS | PG 121 - 133 Paul Farkas | PG 144 - 139 Lam Lai |

Read the SEP ISSUE #105 of Athleisure Mag and see NYFW SS25 EDIT in mag.

9LOOKS | RALPH LAUREN

Read the SEP ISSUE #105 of Athleisure Mag and see 9LOOKS in mag.

BEHIND THE SEAMS | WALTER MENDEZ

This month's cover has been someone that we have watched excitedly over the past years. He hit our radar in 2012/2013 and we were immediately struck by his design aesthetic that ensures that you are the conversation starter and statement in whatever room you occupy! From the craftsmanship, the visual texture, and passion of the designer, Walter Mendez and his Walter Mendez Atelier have been worn by celebrities, iconic entertainers, socialites, and more.

When it comes to designing, it's about creating a world and one that continues to evolve from season to season. We wanted to know more about how he got his start, his creative process, his approach to his RTW, couture, bridal and bespoke; his recent The Golden Cage Exhibition held at The Beverly Hills Hotel, what he's working on, and how he takes time for himself.

ATHLEISURE MAG: I have loved your work since 2012/2013 and certainly no later than 2014! So the fact that we’re chatting right now is definitely a moment!

WALTER MENDEZ: Oh wow, you’ve literally seen the journey and I am honored that you have been aware of my brand for that long! I think that everything that I say in terms of what this collection means to me, you’ll be able to understand a little bit more. So that’s really beautiful, so thank you!

AM: Well thank you! I’m the Co-Founder/Creative + Style Dir of Athleisure Mag as well as being a fashion stylist, so I have followed your work on Instagram and those who have worn your pieces. Your design aesthetic, your approach to bodies whether they are male or female is so amazing. I grew up in a family of designers and product designers. My mom was a couture designer and so I have such an appreciation for you and the space. So I know our readers are going to love it, but I want to tell you thank you for creating this and things that I have looked at when I was in an airport on my way to wherever or when I’m scrolling as I go about my day – the pieces truly transport me away to somewhere else and it’s a vibe! So I thank you for what you have done!

WM: Well thank you, it truly is appreciated. There are moments like yesterday when I was posting and last night I was going through photos it made me say wow. I’m genuinely so proud about what I have accomplished, of my craftsmanship, my aesthetic, my voice as a designer and I’m just so proud of what I know and what I feel that I represent. And not just what I represent to my family, but so many other people out there.

AM: When did you fall in love with fashion?

WM: I would have to say that falling in love with fashion really started early on. I remember being probably 4 or 5 and I just remember putting on my favorite jacket and what was so surreal to me in that memory is that feeling of that jacket. I just felt so cool and the minute that I would put that jacket on I felt that I was owning that room. I remember feeling that feeling and I knew that that was the essence that I wanted to capture in my designs. It was the essence that I want my clients to feel because it’s such a beautiful feeling. I’m sure that you can relate. You have an outfit where you can say, “I know I slay.”

AM: Oh yeah!

WM: I know that when I walk into a room, this outfit shows that I mean business. That feeling, that is the essence of my brand and the essence that I want to give every client of mine. That’s priceless. The energy that you’re able to control your entire day – when you feel good, you’re walking and you’re able to walk to the beat of your own drum, people notice. You attract a different experience.

AM: At what point did you realize that you wanted to be a fashion designer and then that you wanted to create your own namesake collection?

WM: I think that I always played with the idea of being a fashion designer and as someone growing up who didn’t have much, I found myself kind of wanting more. Looking back, I see the beauty in it and I always look at the fact that having nothing allowed me to dream of everything.

You know, we all have the things that spark our interest. We all have our things that we gravitate towards on a level of beauty. Because I’m just that type of person who loves that, I thought, “ok, I may not be able to afford it, and I may not be able to go out and get it, so I’m going to create it.” That’s really where my creativity flourished and I found myself being challenged. I remember my first dresses. I honestly barely only had one sewing class.

But I knew I wanted to play with fabrics and I knew I wanted to play with textures and shapes. So how those dresses came together, I don’t know, but they came together and I saw the vision and the look. It was just so beautiful to see my journey evolve.

AM: I love that!

How do you describe or define your design aesthetic?

WM: My design aesthetic in terms of modern day context, I feel that I design for the main character. For me, if I am dressing you, I’m dressing you to be the star. If you are coming to me, you are going to walk into that event and you are going to own the room. If you want to go to an event and kind of be low key -

AM: Then don’t wear your designs!

WM: Ha ha – I want to give you that full fantasy moment from the minute that you walk into the room and for everyone to want to know you, want to talk to you, give you compliments and for them to be in love with your essence. That is what I give my clients because I know the power and the importance of feeling good and looking good. It’s really about learning to get the most out of a special event. That’s really what it is. Everyone that comes to me, it’s for a special event. I know that the level of production, the level of experience that you’re going to – it’s elevated and more than your average day. I know that I can elevate it to another level.

AM: I will say that there are times when I am watching a red carpet or a music video, there is an ethereal quality whether you’ve designed something that is closer to the body or has various dimensions to it, I can tell when it is one of your pieces that I am looking at. I know it before the credit has been rolled or stated. You can just tell.

WM: Yes!

AM: It’s amazing, it’s absolutely stunning.

What was your feeling when you launched your first brick-and-mortar store? What did that feel like as it is such a huge accomplishment.

WM: It was such a beautiful feeling because for me, I felt that it gave me a home. It was such a beautiful feeling to feel that I have something that is mine and I am focusing on a legacy. Even looking back, in this moment now, I look back at that Atelier – it was beautiful. I’m so proud of it.

Despite being in a different situation than I am now with the level of clientele obviously, my world knowledge, my fashion knowledge – I literally have always tried to make the most out of everything that I have. That is always the advice that I have to myself. It’s about being creative and how do I take it to the next level? How do I challenge myself?

AM: How do you get inspired for each season the you create or for that which is bespoke? Where do you start pulling from?

WM: When I design the collections, I always pull from almost a point of my own personal journey of where I am in that time. So, I always have a lot of self reflection. So what’s my outlook in life, what am I excited about, what intrigues me, what fantasy world would I want to go to next? It’s all a form of a little bit of manifestation and a little bit of a form of intrigue/interest. Like for example, prior to the Golden Cage, I did the Odyssey Collection. For me, I looked at it and at that time, I had traveled the world and I had seen so many beautiful places and it was like, what’s next? So it was the idea of playing with a bit of an outer space world evolved. I started being inspired by different stars, three dimensional Saturn rings, the idea evolved from that and I wanted it to feel modern and sleek and sophisticated – but for it to still have this element of wonder.

That led me to The Golden Cage where I felt that I could do an artistic reflection of my journey. I wanted it to be a love letter to the younger me.

AM: Do you ever look at a fabric – sometimes from a stylist perspective, I see a fabric, a handbag etc and that notion gets stuck in my head and I think about how I can style around that idea for a look or series of looks for an editorial. Have you ever had a nagging item that eventually found its way to being part of a beautiful collection?

WM: Yes and that happens very often! It happens all of the time. Sometimes it can be a physical item that I end up using a prop or it can be a particular movie or music or a certain film. Anything that is able to evoke emotion in me can be used as a form of inspiration. For me, it is so important to capture that essence and then it just evolved. It evolves when you put the different pieces together, it evolves into the next level. For me, it’s like how does this go into a movie – let me create the characters – let me create the story of how can I make all of these dresses that are very much so different but are still part of the same story.

I’m often my very own movie producer, casting director, costume designer, and then it all just makes sense in my head.

AM: You have created this brand that is so coveted by so many people. It’s luxury, it’s on the red carpets, in divas’ residencies, it’s on celebrities, socialites – what does it mean to you to have that kind of impact with the people that want to wear your work and want you to be part of their story when it’s their moment?

WM: It’s truly surreal, it’s a blessing, it’s a privilege. I love what I do and I am so proud of what I do, but I am also blessed that the people that believe in me are able to not just want to wear me, but to be part of my story! I understand that every single client when they are coming to me whether it's a red carpet, an event, a gala whatever it is – I know that you are coming to me because it’s a special moment. The fact that you are choosing your special moment to share it with me and my designs, that to me just speaks volumes.

AM: Obviously you’re known for your RTW collections, couture gowns, and bridal. I love that you were quoted saying that, “fashion was meant to be custom made.” I love that and agree it is such a privilege to have something made with me in mind. Tailoring is always key. Why should people understand this and the importance of tailoring, investment pieces as opposed to spending on items that are not constructed with us in mind and in many ways are throw away.

WM: Yeah, it’s important for me to communicate the fact that fashion is meant to be custom. Because I feel like it is almost a fogotten fact. When you think about history, traditionally, royalty – everything was custom made.

Even if you weren’t royalty, you would get custom made because things weren’t mass produced. The challenge with mass production is that we all have different body types. I mean as a person, one arm is different than another. We are custom built as people. We have individual stories and we have individual needs. So even the girls that are the same weight size – one can have a little bit of a shorter torso, one can have a longer torso -

AM: One boob is bigger than the other.

WM: Yeah there are so many details that are just custom to your body. So when something is mass produced, they’re trying to find the middle ground. They’re looking at hopefully the most amount of people that can buy it. So if you’re off slightly by any way, it’s never going to fit. There is nothing more important than a tailored piece for you.

AM: One of the things that I was talking about at the beginning – I’ve always been a fan of your social media. I love how it’s about you, your line, your collection. I love seeing you with Olivier Rousteing, Creative Director of Balmain, and your account reflects such a vibe of authenticity, this world of luxury, globetrotting, etc. How important is your social media to your brand to showcase to those that are your clients, potential future clients, friends, or people who are simply conduits that can refer others to you?

WM: I like my social media, because to me it’s more than ever, I want to be a beacon of representation for my people. I love sharing all of these experiences because I want to show other people who maybe are from my same background, same challenges, or just not your perfect typical white picket fence All American life – there are people like us in those spaces. These spaces are for all of us and I always tell my family, especially my cousins, and my friends that my success is your success. I want to prove to you all – people like us that we can be in these spaces as well. I think that some of is is being done for the inner me. I literally grew up thinking that someone like me a POC would be in these spaces.

Growing up for me, every brown person that I knew, they weren’t in a place of status or those positions. So growing up for me, there was a period of time where I wondered, “can I not get there?” Is that not how it works? More than ever, I want to highlight to people that I want to show them that we can get there. You can get there and you can do it wherever you want and you have to believe in yourself. We have to start somewhere.

AM: If you don’t see it, it can be hard to visualize for some people when they don’t have a road map. You do have to start somewhere. You have to put in the work and you can have this lovely life.

WM: Also, besides representation, in addition to my skin color, I also look at all of the queer youth to show people in the LGBTQIA community that there are people in positions of status, in positions of wealth and in environments of wealth. We don’t see that enough and I want to show people that everything that makes you, you can make it into what makes you strongest to what makes your career and to be successful at it is what is truly a blessing!

AM: Tell me about your fashion exhibition at The Beverly Hills Hotel. It looked stunning as I have seen the pictures as well as coverage on this. Why did you want to do this, what was the idea behind it, and how long did it take you to do as it was like a Met Gala Costume Institute’s Exhibition. (Editor’s Note: The Met Gala is the first Monday in May and is the Oscars for fashion. It launched in 1948 and was the brain child of fashion publicist Elanor Lambert who played a key role in launching NYFW. Although it has evolved since it’s inception, it's current iteration includes a red carpet with noted celebs dresses by designers that attend this event in a specific theme. The Met Gala is a charity and fundraiser for The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute. The Gala has traditionally been timed to mark the opening of its annual fashion exhibition. For 2024, the Met Gala’s dress code was The Garden of Time and the exhibit for this year is Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion and can be seen at the Museum and features 250 rare items from the Costume Institute’s permanent collection. The exhibit spans over 400 years of fashion history and includes Schiaparelli, Dior, Givenchy, etc. This year’s exhibit will include 3 main zones – Land, Sea, and Sky which pays tribute to the natural world).

WM: So the reason why The Beverly Hills Hotel was the place that I wanted to have that moment was that I have always been inspired by the 1957 Cadillac ad that was shot at The Beverly Hills entrance. I’m sure you know what I am talking about based on that reaction.

I have always seen that photo as such a glamorous moment in life. I have always been allured by it. I have always gravitated towards it so when it came to creating and curating an event for my next collection, I felt that I would use that moment of inspiration. I need to give my people that moment in a modern day life. To be able to be someone who looks up to the entire Metropolitan Museum and what they represent, an event like the Met Gala, I needed to make sure that whatever I deliver was up to that level because I know that I can. I know that I can, I know that I deserve it, and I know that my clothing is worthy of it. I know that my clothing is meant to be in those spaces because I see my work as my art and I know that what I can do, nobody else can do. I am truly and authentically me in my essence and in my work. It’s a mixture of me being so proud of my work and me being educated and making sure that what is being presented is not only going to impress me, my family, and my friends, but is also going to impress my clients, my peers, and anyone in the fashion industry. Because to me, it's such an honor to be able to get the feedback from people that know what they are talking about to be like, “wow, I’m impressed.”

AM: It was stunning to see it. What did it feel like to be in the room with everyone from your friends, family, clients, etc. to toast you like that as well as this body of work?

WM: It felt like the different dimensions of my spirit were coming together and being acknowledged. Like I was being celebrated for my creativity while also being comfortable in my skin, in my queerness, in my creativity, in my aura while celebrating my family and being a beacon of light for everyone that has not only paved the way for me to be there but also paved the way for people who will walk after me. To me, I want to be that leading force and to show people, if I can do it, you can do it. You just have to believe in it and you have to work hard. You have to be consistent because this just doesn’t happen overnight.

That’s why I am so appreciative that you love and are aware of my journey because you have seen the elevation of my work, my craft, and my dedication.

AM: And consistency.

WM: Yeah, you have to wake up everyday and give it your best. I always believe that it doesn’t matter how fast you are moving, as long as you never stop moving. As long as you can say that you are better than you were yesterday, that is all that matters.

AM: Absolutely – 100%!

What is the next project that you’re going to be working on that we should keep an eye out for?

WM: That’s a hard one! There is a lot going on, but I do like to be mysterious as I always like to surprise people. Even for this event when I was sending out the invites, it was “you are invited to the Walter Experience.” So many people like my close friends, were asking what it was, what it meant and I told them, it’s a Walter Experience – when you get there, you will know! I wanted it to be an experience and a moment where I could show me and the way that I process things and it’s such a complex way. Even when I was working on the set design with the team and Butterfly Floral, I was like, “it has to be bigger, it has to be grander.” They were trying to process it and asked me if I was sure. They wondered if I wanted things so giant.

AM: Yes!

WM: And I was like, “YES!” It is important for me to have people to be able to look up because that is a moment that for me, reminds me of my childhood. Always feeling like I was looking up and having that sense of wonder and exploration. Because this was a love letter to my inner me, I had to give that perspective.

AM: I’m sure you’re coming to the end on working SS25 in terms of the collection side. Are you going to be showing here in NY, are you going to be showing in LA – what can you tell us about that?

WM: I can definitely tell you that that is what we are in talks on with the team. It’s really amazing to see not just the response here in the States, but also the international response from other fashion capitals of the world. To hear them tell me that they love what I do and that they would like us to show there and to be part of their calendar for Fashion Week. It’s so surreal because every season that I come out, I am so excited to see the Fashion Weeks around the world and to have them now that these companies and production companies now want me to be part of those Fashion Week calendars it’s a blessing! It just makes me so happy because those moments it's so much but in a blessing! It just makes me so happy because those moments it's so much but in those times I come alive! I know that I am meant to do that. Something comes over me and I just get comfortable in those spaces.

The fact that I am able to do what I love and be authentically me and then be able to produce art that is so widely celebrated, it’s such a beautiful feeling.

AM: You have worked on so many dresses so I know this will sound difficult. Are there 3 that stick out in your head? Whether it’s the dresses themselves or a moment that generated making them, or the clients themselves? Are there 3 moments/dresses/looks in your career where you were like, yes this is what I really love?

WM: Yes there are 3 and yes it is very hard to narrow it down to that. I’ll pick 3 that have just felt like full circle moments for me and have just touched me to my core. Because to me, now I am at a position where it’s very important for me to always celebrate that child and celebrate that inner child that dared to dream because that’s literally where it all started.

I would say that one moment that was really special was the first time that I dressed Beyoncé (Mufasa: The Lion King, Homecoming: A Film by Beyoncé, Renaissance: A Film by Beyoncé) as it happened on my birthday. I just remember sitting there thinking that Queen B just redefined my brand! I will forever remember not just my birthday, but the first time that I got to dress her. It was a beautiful moment because the first that that I got to dress her, it was the first reveal post twins. All eyes were on her and everyone was watching. So to be able to design a piece for her that not only made her comfortable but also made her look absolutely stunning, it was a huge moment where all eyes were on her and to be part of that was just amazing and it was a blessing. So that would be one of my absolute favorites.

Another favorite piece that I absolutely loved was working with Mariah Carey (Precious, The Butler, Girls Trip) for her Vegas Residency and to see my gown on all of the billboards all over Vegas and even here in LA the billboards promoting her. That residency in Vegas was such a surreal moment because I had a flashback to the younger me when I was in 7th grade in my ESL class because English is my second language. It hit me because I literally picked Hero by Mariah Carey and that was the song that I chose to translate to present it to the class!

AM: I love that song!

WM: I had completely forgotten about that and then it didn’t hit me until that moment. I went to the opening night of the residency and she closed the night with that song. It was such a beautiful moment for me to get to experience and for me to be able to look back at that little boy and think, wow. The journey to go from that moment in my life to this one! It was just a full circle moment. That was a really special moment.

Then the third one, I have to say that that one is hard. There are so many special moments. I mean there are so many people. I am going in between Selena Gomez (Only Murders in the Building, Selena + Chef, Selena Gomez: My Mind & Me), JLo (Enough, Hustlers, Atlas), Paris Hilton (The Simple Life, Paris in Love, This is Paris) – there are so many moments! Even my Oscars moment last season was so special. It’s really tough!

AM: I recognize that as I knew it would be!

WM: There’s also 2 epic Beyoncé moments!

As a whole, I remember growing up as a kid, I had all of these posters of singers. Remember those tabloid magazines like J14? I had all of these posters of these celebrities over my bed. Every celebrity on that wall, I dressed! Like Britney Spears (Kenan & Kell, Will & Grace, Crossroads), working with her was such a beautiful experience for me because my first exposure to American music and the English language – I learned to speak through the voices of beautiful talented artists like Beyoncé, Mariah, Britney and now here I am at a point where they believe in my art.

AM: You have left such a mark on the fashion industry, what do you want your legacy to be?

WM: I think that my legacy is wrapped in the word authenticity. I really push all of my clients that I dress and I do it with the way that I present myself and people really finding their true beauty and authenticity. We all know what we want.

When we’re all going somewhere and we know what we want, we say I want to wear this, I wish I could wear that etc. We know what we want and sometimes it’s a matter of being afraid or not wanting to do too much and some people wonder whether wearing something will get people talking. But you know what you want so if you know what you want, why not?

That is what I want my legacy to be. I want it to be about authenticity. So when people come to me, I tell them to tell me what they’re dreams are. I want to be let in and no limits so I know the vibe, the essence, and who you are as a person. What do you want to show? Forget what people are going to say – it’s about you – what do you want? I try to do that with even the way that I dress. I dress for me and I’m not trying to follow a trend or to be like anyone else. I’m doing me and that lets me radiate on my own terms and on my own level.

AM: As someone who I know your schedule is always packed, when you’re not designing or working on the next project, how do you take time for yourself? Do you find that time because I know when you work for yourself it’s tough to turn it off and we have to figure out ways that we can focus on ourselves so that we are infusing our energy back to us. That way we can be our best selves for everything that we are doing?

WM: I do try to make it a time to give time for myself. I do know that it takes a lot whether I’m meeting with my clients or I am going into fittings. I invest all of my in my work and with people so it’s very draining, but I always make it a point to make sure that I have my me time. My gym is in the mornings, my yoga classes, those are my me times. I try to make any moment that I can with me – even if I am just walking around the city. I put my headphones on and I put a song on that makes me feel good. I am runway walking down the street – that is me! It’s just what brings me joy, it clears my mind, and it sort of allows me to process it. Because despite it being a lot of work and very demanding, and a lot to process and deal with and manage because I have a large team at the Atelier from pattern makers, sewers, hand beaders, and teams of assistants, the PR team, the Social Media team – it’s a lot to drive the energy of my village. It takes a village, but to me, I am in charge of driving that energy and it’s very draining. Now when I say draining, I mean it in the most loving way. To me, draining is not a negative word. It’s sort of like, if you love to run marathons, it’s going to be draining – but you love it! But I always make it fun. This is fun. I live in a fantasy world. Because I love it, I find those me moments in there.

AM: I totally get and feel the same way!

WM: Even talking to you right now! I’m having fun!

AM: That’s the thing! We get to do so many things and to engage with so many people that you may feel tired, but when you love what you’re doing you’re always able to dip into that well. Somehow, you figure out how you can refresh yourself.

In this industry and I know you know of people like this as well, they went out for something that they wanted to do, it didn’t work out and then they either stopped or soured on the experience. Then there are those such as yourself that wanted it, found a way, and they are living exactly what they wanted and I always find that to be amazing and energizing as I love knowing those stories especially when it’s from those that I have admired their work from their beginnings and have been able to see that trajectory over time. It’s such a vibrant community to be part of.

IG @waltercollection

PHOTOGRAPHY CREDITS | FRONT/BACK COVER, PG 16 Chris Martin | PG 19, 20, 23, 24, 28, Alex W Photography | PG 31 - 34 for 9LIST STORI3S Kelly Balchim |

Read the JUN ISSUE #102 of Athleisure Mag and see BEHIND THE SEAMS | Walter Mendez in mag.