NEW DAWN FOR BAGS | JESSY DOVER - DAGNE DOVER

Dagne Dover launched in 2013 and is a brand that form, function, and innovation come together so that you can enjoy rocking a nice bag that allows you to stay organized. Jessy Dover is 1 of the 3 Co-Founders of this brand and we took a moment to talk about how she got into the industry, her design/creative approach, and what is coming up with the brand.

ATHLEISURE MAG: When did you realize that you wanted to be a designer in the handbag category?

JESSY DOVER: I always knew I wanted to be a designer because it’s where I light up the most. I love making things and in particular, I love making wearables. I didn’t know that I wanted to be a handbag designer though until I started seeing my successes there. I don’t know who made up this term, but it’s all about greenlights and I kind of live by that term! So when I start getting greenlights, I try and follow that. So the first kick off of that was in my Senior year of Parsons, I was like, I need a job. I’m going to apply for every award, every internship, that I could and I ended up winning the Coach Design Competition and that was the first time that I realized I had fun with that project and I got to really understand how to create a bag. For me, as someone who has more of an athletic body type, I never fit into the fashion body type world, and when I was at school there, I felt out of place. I just fell in love with bags because you didn’t have to consider the body all that much. It is just a tool that you can use every day to make your life work. I was stoked on that!

It kind of led me down this path of eventually meeting my co-founders and creating my first few bags. After we started selling, I would say that after I sold my first 100 bags, I would say “oh, ok other people want really great bags that have pockets and actually support them through their day,” which led me to where I am today, which is deep in bag world and I love it! It definitely wasn’t something growing up where I thought that I would be a bag designer.

AM: I have to say that when I first started working in the fashion industry, I started as a model, then went into design, visual merchandising, wholesale, and then styling before I entered publishing – I would always tell people that I am an Accessory Expert and they would ask why I liked it so much. I would tell them whether you’re bloated or not, the bag is going to fit – the shoe is reasonably going to fit for the most part and the jewelry is generally never going to disappoint you no matter what is going on with your body. When you can do that and enjoy those items, it’s a different level of confidence you can have when you’re wearing them.

JD: Totally!

AM: So I love being accessory first!

JD: Yes! Ok, me too! It also just tops everything off. You can put on your clothes, but when you put on those shoes and that bag, it brings everything together!

AM: What was the first bag ever that you designed?

JD: I really have to think about this one! I would say that the first bag that I ever designed that became an actual bag that someone would want to wear, was the design that I did for the Coach Award. As you can imagine, it takes a lifetime to be a good craftsman and to make a luxury bag.

AM: For sure!

JD: Whenever we go to Asia and we’re with the sample makers, I’m just bowing down because it’s all them. We design, but they create it. But I made this bag with the Coach sample maker and it was my first leather bag, it was a work bag, fairly simple, a camel color, with buckles on the front, computer sleeve, and I looked at it when it was finished and that is when it clicked for me. You need to have a team of people to create something incredible and you can’t be the expert at every single thing. That’s when I realized that I am a designer and I am not a maker.

Then I would say that the first bag that I actually sold that was a success was our Legend – we still sell it and it is still on the site. There was another bag, but we don’t sell it anymore as it has been discontinued, called the Clutch Wallet. But the Legend was our very first work tote and it was made out of coated canvas and it was a solve to the problem that we had originally pinpointed. The problem was that there wasn’t a work bag that was also cute that is a good price point for a working woman that can keep your things safe - that has a computer sleeve, has a key leash, has a spot for your phone and you know all of that good stuff. So that was a big moment for me. I think that the confidence that gave me was that it wasn’t even me, it was like, people want what I want and it gave me that push to keep going. The next bag that I look at as my biggest most favorite success was the Dakota Backpack – that or the Landon, I came out with it at the same time. That was when things started lighting up for the brand and that was a whole other different success than the Legend. Because, all of a sudden we were talking to a whole community that were not just those that were working corporate jobs. They were living!

AM: That’s right!

JD: That was the time that I was really coming into my own as a designer and a person who really prioritizes health and wellness and bringing my self to the world, and I feel that that was the moment for me as a really young designer.

AM: I love when you were talking about the whole designer and the community of makers that support it. My mom was a couture designer for a number of years so I watched her make gowns, suiting, etc.

JD: Goosebumps!

AM: I loved it and she had another person who worked with her. But it wasn’t until I did a collab line with Sebago for a few seasons where I would sell it on HSN and we designed it in the Dominican Republic at the factories there; when I was there you would have generations of people that by hand were sewing and putting the different leathers on the machines. I knew what I knew in terms of leathers, cool colors, and how that should come together, but then I would talk with the teams that would talk about the placements to take my vision to how it could actually come forward, and there was so much knowledge there that I really respected. So when I would go on air to talk about the shoes I was always happy to say that I designed them, but I would always reference the makers and their knowledge over so many years that brought those shoes to life! They would tell me that they had been doing shoes since they were 16 and some of them were in their 80’s.

JD: They knew what they were doing!

AM: They totally did. It’s about the community and taking that feedback and knowledge and making people aware how your favorite items come to be! I think it’s such a great point that you highlighted.

JD: For sure. It’s cool that you got to watch your mom doing that. I didn’t have that level of transparency into fashion and garment making and bag making – but once I did, that’s what hooked me and I knew that that was so cool.

AM: You talked a little bit about how your co-founders came together. What are each of your roles and what does Dagne Dover mean?

JD: Great question! I’m the Chief Creative Officer, I handle all things creative and design. I spend a third of my time designing product, a third of it doing creative marketing, and then a third of my time doing founder stuff.

AM: There’s always founder stuff.

JD: There’s ALWAYS founder stuff! If I let it, it could take 100% of the time.

AM: FACTS!

JD: Oh yeah, I’m always stopping and saying – that can wait until tomorrow.

My Co-Founders, God bless their hearts, because this company could not run without them, they are sort of the business genius behind everything. They do all of the fundraising, they do a lot of the strategic planning for our drops and our buys and our distribution strategy – all of the stuff that goes into running a business. So my partner Melissa Shin Mash, she’s our CEO and my other partner, Deepa Gandhi are COO/CFO –

AM: When you’re Co-Founder you’re always wearing multiple hats!

JD: Oh, we’re all wearing multiple hats! The day that I can just run 1 department is the day that I just die of happiness!

AM: Oh I hear you!

So the name means …

JD: Oh yeah, so Dagne means new dawn. So in Nordic indigenous language it means new dawn and we just love the name Dagne. I’m so obsessed with Scandinavian design because I think that the simplicity, the purposefulness, and the natural elements – it’s the perfect balance from my perspective. So we chose that as our first name, and then Dover is my last name and we just felt that it was a true collaboration. I did not want my name on it to be totally honest. They were like you should have your name on it because you are the creative behind it. So we kind of created this character out of Dagne Dover and we like to look at it as a new dawn for handbags and really in everything that we do, we support the concept that you should expect more from your bag and you should – we’re here to give that to you.

AM: I will say, that I love that your ears are always to the ground, you’re watching and somewhere along the line an innovation is birthed and will fall into a future season. Not everyone does that.

JD: I really appreciate that and I really have that to owe to my partners because I have the space to do it. I’m still very busy, but because of my team and my partners, I’m really fortunate. I have other friends that are designers and I know that you know this, they’re running their business and they are also designing. That is so much! I am super grateful for that and our community is super outspoken! Our community is power women and they’re so great because they will tell you what they want, what they don’t like and they are super honest and I appreciate that!

AM: They truly care and a number of us saw the initial assortment and have had the joy of being along for the ride of the expanded styles, colorways, and innovations! For me, I find that the purpose and intention is there. Whether I may use a specific style or not, I can understand why it is there and who it is servicing.

Many years ago, when I worked in the wholesale division at Lacoste, there would be a large number of SKUs for that particular season and I always thought about how much that could be edited. You could look through and in terms of buyers you knew where a lot of those items would gravitate towards.

JD: I think that that is the difference too between running a product led brand and a brand brand. We’ve all come from the world of brand led brands where you just need stuff to sell. We’re really selling a brand, but we wanted to create something that is product first. We love the brand, the brand has value, but it’s really about the product, because otherwise you’re selling and idea that people are buying into, but I really love product.

AM: What’s an average week like for you? I ask that knowing that there are no average weeks!

JD: I know! I think it’s so funny that you asked this because I really want to nail this down! You’re right! I set a schedule and then it just gets wiped out every week. I do try to stay true to my 1/3 design, 1/3 digital marketing – with all of my emails and photoshoots, and 1/3 founder stuff! I would say that most of my stuff I try to split it between the day, but as a leader of this initiative and how we can be available and make our schedules work, so that we can make it happen and push it forward – what keeps me focused and on point is that at the beginning of the week I write down my top 5 things that must must happen and even if those meetings don’t happen we use Slack, text, and voice notes and all of the other modes of communication to make sure that the ball keeps rolling. It’s about finishing and completing those initiatives. I know that you also know this, but we don’t really have a big team. I don’t even know what size brand to call us! We have a small team, we drive a lot of business, but it is still a hustle every day! It’s a lot of meticulous planning ahead of time. I have all of my workouts slotted in because if I don’t they just won’t happen.

AM: This Summer was a great one for Athleisure Media. We traveled, attended a number of functions, connected with people and have great projects coming up. The IG looks great, but behind the scenes while all that is going on is a lot of controlled chaos.

JD: For sure! I say that all the time my IG looks pretty because it shows my slow paced life, but really it’s not at all because there are a lot of things going on.

AM: Impossible. Just looking at your drops of new products, you do a number of events outside of NYC and dealing with communities in other cities, the planning that goes behind introducing colorways and new styles – there is constant movement going on there and a lot of planning.

I know especially with my wholesale background that yes your brand is small, but the amount of output, the footprint etc – there is a lot of working going on perpetually.

So how do you get inspired and where do you go for your inspiration for the collections and the colorways?

JD: I love this question! I have a lot of different places where I get inspired and mainly it comes from my every day life! For product, I look at what I am struggling with and where is there white space? An example of that is not being able to find my keys for 10mins in my bag at my front door – I don’t have 10 extra minutes, that’s my break time in between meetings!

AM: So true!

JD: Then I designed the key leash and we put it in every single bag! So now it is super quick to find them. So things like that – but then also for seasonal drops that are a lot more conceptual, I learned to design with a method that is very traditional due to going to Parsons with an inspiration and everything fitting within that so that you have the guardrails. For me those inspirations come from travel. Our SS drop this year was called Lakehouse and we had come up with this whole dream world of a lakehouse and we pulled colors, textures, color names, from that theme and so that happens a lot. I will go on trips and be like, “guys let’s just dive into this world.” A lot of times, it becomes place.

AM: Always a good place to start.

JD: Yeah, it’s inspiring. It’s fun and gives me energy. I love a natural landscape. I wanted to go to the Scottish Highlands this Summer, but I didn’t have time. There was no way that that was going to happen so I went to Chat GPT an asked if there was anywhere in the US that was like the Scottish Highlands. It spit out that in Virginia, there are areas that look like that in the Appalachian trail. It’s a small portion of it, but I flew down and there were cows and ponies and it was so crazy. I didn’t know it existed so close to us, but things like that get me really excited.

Then being outdoors – I love being outdoors whether it’s hiking, backpacking, snowboarding. I grew up in Colorado so being in NY, I don’t really get access to that so every chance I get, I go. Often times, I’m inspired by technical gear that I’m getting or buying because those are super high functioning and they are not used in traditional fashion a lot. They are great and they look professional if they are done with the right silhouette.

AM: In those early days, I have been a Dark Moss girl from the start. For me, I feel that it is one of those new neutrals. I don’t want to just have black but somehow, that Dark Moss it just hits different.

How did you guys identify that these were going to be core colors, what would oscillate in terms of colorways throughout seasons, and those that are limited editions? Even now you have those core colors that still find their way there.

JD: I kind of shot myself in the foot with that one if I’m honest. Those colors sell and I’m like, “please, let’s get new ones.” But people love them! They have become iconic to the brand in a way. If I’m totally honest, I made colors that I totally wanted to wear.

AM: Which is fair.

JD: I was working a lot, I wanted to make sure that whatever core colors we dropped, it would go with my friends and families existing wardrobe. They were picked to be complimentary, but exactly what you said, I didn’t want them to be plain and dull and boring and in the exact same colors that everybody else drops. There are limitless colors so can we pick a brownish/purple that other people don’t do? Really when we look at it, we want it to feel good – color is such a powerful tool with the psychology behind it. This has always been interesting to me. There are people who love purple, they only wear purple, and when I do a purple – I know who will buy it and it will sell through really fast, but I can’t make it a core color because it won’t continuously sell. Digging into these people’s minds, there are similarities of how they think because they will choose purple. Green, the Dark Moss green is exactly what you said. They don’t want to wear black every day. They have their own flair and they still need to fit into some kind of societal structure where maybe they are going to the office or they don’t want to be super flashy, but they want to be cool and fun – a little bit interesting. Then there is the navy people. So I just tried to hit on the buckets of those things and to give the best version of those things.

AM: Wow!

When I first started getting pieces from you guys. I came to love the leather collections and it was the oxblood. From the tote bags to this beautiful large clutch/cosmetic base that I use to hold items I use for wine when I am traveling ha! That part of the collection reminded me of 1970’s Etienne Aigner – that was my jam!

JD: Yes! It was! Fun fact, I worked on that brand for awhile!

AM: I am not surprised! My parents in the 70s had matching Etienne Aigner oxblood leather jackets and then my mom gave me hers and I used to wear it all the time and I had the bag to match!

Then neoprene came and I was like, this is not even a fabrication that I would ever think that I would want for my bags, but I got the versatility of it immediately. I love how it is squishy.

JD: Squishy!

AM: Super expandable, and I was there for it. So how did neoprene make its way in there? I knew from the first one that every part of my bag needed this fabrication.

JD: I’m so glad you like it! I love it too! My life changed. I went from a corporate design job to being a founder. I’m running around the city – I’m not seeing people except for my factory and my teammates. We were working in basically a closet and I was in gym clothes every day. I wanted something that felt like me – sporty, needs to move with me throughout the day, but still where I look put together to be neat and presentable. I was in Vietnam working to set up another factory and I was swimming and I had this neoprene bathing suit. I was like, this is rad! So I said to Deepa, do you think that we could make bags out of this? She’s like, “dude, I don’t know but why don’t you try?” She’s always like try it and we’ll see what happens. We did it and it turned out really cool. Before we dropped it, I didn’t know if people would like it.

To me, I felt that it might be a world where people didn’t understand it. In Colorado, I knew people where I’m from would understand the fabrication, but they don’t really need a bag that is tailored as much as those are. They are wearing Patagonia and gear – it’s not like they are wearing something that needs to go into the boardroom also. So I thought, they will get it, but they may not buy it.

My people in NY, they might get the silhouette but this may be too sporty for them!

It was a passion and a random idea that we thought could be really cool and it turned out really great.

AM: The other side of that is the bags that were made completely out of mesh! Again, I was like ok now we’re taking something that is usually inside of the bag as a pocket or a pouch and we’re taking that to the next level!

JD: I know! That was said by people too and they loved it and the fact that it was so lightweight! We ended up dropping the Air Mesh. Ultimately, that one did great, but it was a fun learning experience because it was so sporty, people felt that they couldn’t wear it to the office.

AM: Sustainability has always been something key and core to the brand. I love that now the neoprene bags are made out of x amount of bottles. You also have other environmental innovations as well. Why is that so important to you and being transparent about it because a lot of times you don’t know when someone is saying that something is that – to what end?

JD: Right – what? It could mean anything. I try to stay away from the word sustainable because I am afraid that it doesn’t mean anything anymore. What I try to do is to infuse as many conscious materials that I can find that is trackable. Part of being in a new wave of something is figuring out what is legit and what it’s not. The systems aren’t there, the regulation isn’t there yet and quite frankly, the US doesn’t have a lot of rules around that in the same way that Europe and other places do. It was a process of finding out which manufacturers were making eco-friendly materials.

What do they have that we can already utilize for the products that we have created and what do they have that we can use in the future to make even more sustainably minded products. It’s important to me because I love bags, I love making things and if you saw my apartment – there is stuff everywhere. I understand that when you make things, there is a lot of waste. There is a lot of testing and you’re making a physical thing so as much as you can be conscious about wastage and where it is coming from and where it is going to after, I think is fantastic and hopefully my wish and hope is that we live in a world where there are companies that are offering sustainable materials that we can use that are also durable. I think one of the biggest challenges for us is finding durable sustainable materials that can also be produced in a way that is timely and consistent – a lot of it is experimental!

What people don’t talk in terms of sustainability is affordability and that is a big one.

AM: It’s a huge barrier.

In terms of the travel collection. How long did it take to create that? You know I love it, for years I had asked members of your team why you were not adding it to your assortment and once it came out, I switched over my travel as well as my styling kit – including the carry-ons, duffles, garment bags, cubes to these products and love how they play well with the other Dark Moss pieces that I do have from the eyeglass case, toiletry bags as well.

I will also say the wheels on those bags work so well. Here in NYC, you know we have like 80 types of streets/concrete.

JD: Ha! Thank you for noticing. We put a ton of time into those wheels. I told them that we were not dropping until we had nice wheels because that is the key to the whole thing. I guess it took 3 years, but I was thinking about it a long time prior to that. It was a meticulous process. Luggage is not forgiving! There are a lot of regulations from any number of airlines from around the world that you have to hit so you are boxed into these being the sizes that you have to do or else people will not be able to carry them on the flight – so there’s that. It has to be incredibly durable because of course, we don’t know what they do behind those curtains, but every time that a bag comes out – you’re like what happened here? It has to be durable, dense material – I was really on my sustainability quick when we were designing this. They are 100% recycled and I was not willing to make any compromises on that. We were developing into this custom material and then I really wanted the interior organizational system to match what they were expecting from us. So we designed a ton of pieces, we tested them for a really long time, ultimately narrowed it down and the process took a long time. So we manufacture in Asia so we get the best products and it takes time for them to make every single sample set and we could be waiting 1 month or 2 between sample sets while we’re waiting for the next one to make changes and to evolve them. So it took about 3 years and to be totally honest, I was learning on the fly. Luggage is a whole other category.

AM: It is a whole other beast!

JD: That was very fun, but I am super happy with where they landed and I’m so glad you love your Dark Moss! I need a picture of your set.

AM: I’m constantly taking pictures of it in every photoshoot when I’m on set. I mean yes they are great travel bags but when I am bringing them to set or we’re sketching out what is coming as each shoot is a snowflake with different needs there may be a series of luggage and related accessories to support the needs and I’m always happy how smooth it is or how the compartments work or how I use it for a set versus going on a vacation.

I will also say that the long garment bag which I know is really great for weddings. It’s awesome for pulls because I can fit quite quite a few things in there and it’s still streamlined. When we shot our cover with Bozoma Saint John back in the Fall last year, I literally walked into 2 different bridal showrooms as they had evening wear and I must have fit 8-10 pieces in there easily.

JD: So glad you love it because we made that bag for gowns. My partner Deepa is Indian and we need an extra extra long bag for her gowns and people started loving it for all sorts of things. We have a bunch of designers that are using it for Fashion Week. Garment bags are great, but again, there are not a lot of cute options that are also lightweight and all the things that we as people in the industry need. I am so glad that you love The Capri.

AM: Oh yeah, I use the Carpi bag. I think that day I had that as well as the Air Mesh XL tote in Dark Moss that way folded could go there and everything else was in the other because I was hopping in and out of the subway that day for that cover shoot and I wanted to keep it light and agile haha!

Each showroom was talking about how co-ordinated it was and it didn’t matter if you were in a luxe space or something more functional the bags never looked out of place.

JD: I love hearing that and am glad you’re working those bags!

AM: Without question!

How many drops a year would you say that you guys have?

JD: It depends. I don’t have a specific numbers that I have to or feel that I need to hit. We always have a SS and a FW drop. Depending on what strategically we are trying to achieve, I will drop a product based collection or sometimes just new products if I feel they are needed and I’m working on it.

For example, last year in 2024, we had 4 drops. For 2026, I’ll have 7+ drops planned. So it really depends. I would say that I like to try and stay on a schedule. Things are ready when they are ready. For me, it’s about doing it and the dropping it the right way. That’s why some years we’re making it rain and then in other years it feels like we’re pulling it back a little.

Sometimes I just want to move on and create something new so you have to replace something. Something better is coming and I want to get ahead of it. Sometimes it’s also that something is too expensive to create for what we can sell it for. Being transparent is important about that. People will ask if we can make something and we can, I want to, but it will not be affordable!

AM: If someone is new to the brand, what would be 3 items that they should have to start their collections?

JD: Love this question! I would say that they must have the 23.5 Carry On Luggage that is the larger sized because there are 2. The Landon in the Medium Size. I love it because it goes from duffle to tote and it’s just the most versatile bag ever. I would say the Bennie Sling that we just dropped this past Spring and it’s like our old Morris Sling, but on steroids. We know that our slings are awesome, how can we make it even better and to address every pain point that people have? Everyone needs one. So that is my third pick! Those three you can rule the world!

AM: You guys always do fun events. My favorite event you guys threw was a few years ago and it was a twist on a Field Day/Olympics day.

JD: Oh yeah!

AM: It was like you literally felt you were living with the bags and it was fun. It’s also fun when you have done things with Sloane Stephens and she did a fun collab with you guys for Doc + Glo. We’ve had her as a previous cover, have interviewed her a few times, and I had lunch with her earlier this Spring. She’s just a good human.

JD: She really is! I feel like I’m best friends with her, but I don’t know her like that that well.

AM: You can sit with her and you just feel like you’ve known her for awhile.

Are there any partnerships or event collaborations that you can share?

JD: We have our FW assortment that is dropping in Oct this year. We’re really excited and we have some awesome prints and new colors.

I would say stay tuned for 2026 because we have a big year planned out! I’m very excited about it.

I mean, Sloane, we just love her. She is part of the team at this point so it comes from things like that – synergistic connections that we can create something really cool together.

AM: When you’re not doing all of the things that you do as a co-founder, how do you take time for yourself? This work is consuming and you do love it, but you do have to take at least half a second.

JD: For me it is very physical. My nervous system will crash and I always feel it coming. I will call my mom and I tell her I can feel it coming. When I get to that and some people call it burnout mode, I will take a little trip whether it is 1 night or 5 nights. I was actually able to take a trip for the month of August to Steamboat which is where I’m from and I worked from there for a month. When I tell you that it changed everything for me, I can’t suggest enough about taking a beat and it can be as simple as skipping the commute. Just that, working from home for a week can do that. For me, it’s about working out. I have to get that in and really think about the fact that we have a body too! We’re always up here in our mind and stuff, but when my body is in motion, it’s when I feel the best – hiking and biking – that’s when the ideas come to me. I have 2 dogs and honestly getting the dogs was the best because it forces me to go out and walk them.

AM: They have to do their business!

JD: They have to do their business and they are not going to wait!

IG @dagnedover

PHOTOS COURTESY | Dagne Dover

Read the SEP ISSUE #117 of Athleisure Mag and see NEW DAWN FOR BAGS | Jessy Dover - Dagne Dover in mag.

BEHIND THE SEAMS | WALTER MENDEZ

This month's cover has been someone that we have watched excitedly over the past years. He hit our radar in 2012/2013 and we were immediately struck by his design aesthetic that ensures that you are the conversation starter and statement in whatever room you occupy! From the craftsmanship, the visual texture, and passion of the designer, Walter Mendez and his Walter Mendez Atelier have been worn by celebrities, iconic entertainers, socialites, and more.

When it comes to designing, it's about creating a world and one that continues to evolve from season to season. We wanted to know more about how he got his start, his creative process, his approach to his RTW, couture, bridal and bespoke; his recent The Golden Cage Exhibition held at The Beverly Hills Hotel, what he's working on, and how he takes time for himself.

ATHLEISURE MAG: I have loved your work since 2012/2013 and certainly no later than 2014! So the fact that we’re chatting right now is definitely a moment!

WALTER MENDEZ: Oh wow, you’ve literally seen the journey and I am honored that you have been aware of my brand for that long! I think that everything that I say in terms of what this collection means to me, you’ll be able to understand a little bit more. So that’s really beautiful, so thank you!

AM: Well thank you! I’m the Co-Founder/Creative + Style Dir of Athleisure Mag as well as being a fashion stylist, so I have followed your work on Instagram and those who have worn your pieces. Your design aesthetic, your approach to bodies whether they are male or female is so amazing. I grew up in a family of designers and product designers. My mom was a couture designer and so I have such an appreciation for you and the space. So I know our readers are going to love it, but I want to tell you thank you for creating this and things that I have looked at when I was in an airport on my way to wherever or when I’m scrolling as I go about my day – the pieces truly transport me away to somewhere else and it’s a vibe! So I thank you for what you have done!

WM: Well thank you, it truly is appreciated. There are moments like yesterday when I was posting and last night I was going through photos it made me say wow. I’m genuinely so proud about what I have accomplished, of my craftsmanship, my aesthetic, my voice as a designer and I’m just so proud of what I know and what I feel that I represent. And not just what I represent to my family, but so many other people out there.

AM: When did you fall in love with fashion?

WM: I would have to say that falling in love with fashion really started early on. I remember being probably 4 or 5 and I just remember putting on my favorite jacket and what was so surreal to me in that memory is that feeling of that jacket. I just felt so cool and the minute that I would put that jacket on I felt that I was owning that room. I remember feeling that feeling and I knew that that was the essence that I wanted to capture in my designs. It was the essence that I want my clients to feel because it’s such a beautiful feeling. I’m sure that you can relate. You have an outfit where you can say, “I know I slay.”

AM: Oh yeah!

WM: I know that when I walk into a room, this outfit shows that I mean business. That feeling, that is the essence of my brand and the essence that I want to give every client of mine. That’s priceless. The energy that you’re able to control your entire day – when you feel good, you’re walking and you’re able to walk to the beat of your own drum, people notice. You attract a different experience.

AM: At what point did you realize that you wanted to be a fashion designer and then that you wanted to create your own namesake collection?

WM: I think that I always played with the idea of being a fashion designer and as someone growing up who didn’t have much, I found myself kind of wanting more. Looking back, I see the beauty in it and I always look at the fact that having nothing allowed me to dream of everything.

You know, we all have the things that spark our interest. We all have our things that we gravitate towards on a level of beauty. Because I’m just that type of person who loves that, I thought, “ok, I may not be able to afford it, and I may not be able to go out and get it, so I’m going to create it.” That’s really where my creativity flourished and I found myself being challenged. I remember my first dresses. I honestly barely only had one sewing class.

But I knew I wanted to play with fabrics and I knew I wanted to play with textures and shapes. So how those dresses came together, I don’t know, but they came together and I saw the vision and the look. It was just so beautiful to see my journey evolve.

AM: I love that!

How do you describe or define your design aesthetic?

WM: My design aesthetic in terms of modern day context, I feel that I design for the main character. For me, if I am dressing you, I’m dressing you to be the star. If you are coming to me, you are going to walk into that event and you are going to own the room. If you want to go to an event and kind of be low key -

AM: Then don’t wear your designs!

WM: Ha ha – I want to give you that full fantasy moment from the minute that you walk into the room and for everyone to want to know you, want to talk to you, give you compliments and for them to be in love with your essence. That is what I give my clients because I know the power and the importance of feeling good and looking good. It’s really about learning to get the most out of a special event. That’s really what it is. Everyone that comes to me, it’s for a special event. I know that the level of production, the level of experience that you’re going to – it’s elevated and more than your average day. I know that I can elevate it to another level.

AM: I will say that there are times when I am watching a red carpet or a music video, there is an ethereal quality whether you’ve designed something that is closer to the body or has various dimensions to it, I can tell when it is one of your pieces that I am looking at. I know it before the credit has been rolled or stated. You can just tell.

WM: Yes!

AM: It’s amazing, it’s absolutely stunning.

What was your feeling when you launched your first brick-and-mortar store? What did that feel like as it is such a huge accomplishment.

WM: It was such a beautiful feeling because for me, I felt that it gave me a home. It was such a beautiful feeling to feel that I have something that is mine and I am focusing on a legacy. Even looking back, in this moment now, I look back at that Atelier – it was beautiful. I’m so proud of it.

Despite being in a different situation than I am now with the level of clientele obviously, my world knowledge, my fashion knowledge – I literally have always tried to make the most out of everything that I have. That is always the advice that I have to myself. It’s about being creative and how do I take it to the next level? How do I challenge myself?

AM: How do you get inspired for each season the you create or for that which is bespoke? Where do you start pulling from?

WM: When I design the collections, I always pull from almost a point of my own personal journey of where I am in that time. So, I always have a lot of self reflection. So what’s my outlook in life, what am I excited about, what intrigues me, what fantasy world would I want to go to next? It’s all a form of a little bit of manifestation and a little bit of a form of intrigue/interest. Like for example, prior to the Golden Cage, I did the Odyssey Collection. For me, I looked at it and at that time, I had traveled the world and I had seen so many beautiful places and it was like, what’s next? So it was the idea of playing with a bit of an outer space world evolved. I started being inspired by different stars, three dimensional Saturn rings, the idea evolved from that and I wanted it to feel modern and sleek and sophisticated – but for it to still have this element of wonder.

That led me to The Golden Cage where I felt that I could do an artistic reflection of my journey. I wanted it to be a love letter to the younger me.

AM: Do you ever look at a fabric – sometimes from a stylist perspective, I see a fabric, a handbag etc and that notion gets stuck in my head and I think about how I can style around that idea for a look or series of looks for an editorial. Have you ever had a nagging item that eventually found its way to being part of a beautiful collection?

WM: Yes and that happens very often! It happens all of the time. Sometimes it can be a physical item that I end up using a prop or it can be a particular movie or music or a certain film. Anything that is able to evoke emotion in me can be used as a form of inspiration. For me, it is so important to capture that essence and then it just evolved. It evolves when you put the different pieces together, it evolves into the next level. For me, it’s like how does this go into a movie – let me create the characters – let me create the story of how can I make all of these dresses that are very much so different but are still part of the same story.

I’m often my very own movie producer, casting director, costume designer, and then it all just makes sense in my head.

AM: You have created this brand that is so coveted by so many people. It’s luxury, it’s on the red carpets, in divas’ residencies, it’s on celebrities, socialites – what does it mean to you to have that kind of impact with the people that want to wear your work and want you to be part of their story when it’s their moment?

WM: It’s truly surreal, it’s a blessing, it’s a privilege. I love what I do and I am so proud of what I do, but I am also blessed that the people that believe in me are able to not just want to wear me, but to be part of my story! I understand that every single client when they are coming to me whether it's a red carpet, an event, a gala whatever it is – I know that you are coming to me because it’s a special moment. The fact that you are choosing your special moment to share it with me and my designs, that to me just speaks volumes.

AM: Obviously you’re known for your RTW collections, couture gowns, and bridal. I love that you were quoted saying that, “fashion was meant to be custom made.” I love that and agree it is such a privilege to have something made with me in mind. Tailoring is always key. Why should people understand this and the importance of tailoring, investment pieces as opposed to spending on items that are not constructed with us in mind and in many ways are throw away.

WM: Yeah, it’s important for me to communicate the fact that fashion is meant to be custom. Because I feel like it is almost a fogotten fact. When you think about history, traditionally, royalty – everything was custom made.

Even if you weren’t royalty, you would get custom made because things weren’t mass produced. The challenge with mass production is that we all have different body types. I mean as a person, one arm is different than another. We are custom built as people. We have individual stories and we have individual needs. So even the girls that are the same weight size – one can have a little bit of a shorter torso, one can have a longer torso -

AM: One boob is bigger than the other.

WM: Yeah there are so many details that are just custom to your body. So when something is mass produced, they’re trying to find the middle ground. They’re looking at hopefully the most amount of people that can buy it. So if you’re off slightly by any way, it’s never going to fit. There is nothing more important than a tailored piece for you.

AM: One of the things that I was talking about at the beginning – I’ve always been a fan of your social media. I love how it’s about you, your line, your collection. I love seeing you with Olivier Rousteing, Creative Director of Balmain, and your account reflects such a vibe of authenticity, this world of luxury, globetrotting, etc. How important is your social media to your brand to showcase to those that are your clients, potential future clients, friends, or people who are simply conduits that can refer others to you?

WM: I like my social media, because to me it’s more than ever, I want to be a beacon of representation for my people. I love sharing all of these experiences because I want to show other people who maybe are from my same background, same challenges, or just not your perfect typical white picket fence All American life – there are people like us in those spaces. These spaces are for all of us and I always tell my family, especially my cousins, and my friends that my success is your success. I want to prove to you all – people like us that we can be in these spaces as well. I think that some of is is being done for the inner me. I literally grew up thinking that someone like me a POC would be in these spaces.

Growing up for me, every brown person that I knew, they weren’t in a place of status or those positions. So growing up for me, there was a period of time where I wondered, “can I not get there?” Is that not how it works? More than ever, I want to highlight to people that I want to show them that we can get there. You can get there and you can do it wherever you want and you have to believe in yourself. We have to start somewhere.

AM: If you don’t see it, it can be hard to visualize for some people when they don’t have a road map. You do have to start somewhere. You have to put in the work and you can have this lovely life.

WM: Also, besides representation, in addition to my skin color, I also look at all of the queer youth to show people in the LGBTQIA community that there are people in positions of status, in positions of wealth and in environments of wealth. We don’t see that enough and I want to show people that everything that makes you, you can make it into what makes you strongest to what makes your career and to be successful at it is what is truly a blessing!

AM: Tell me about your fashion exhibition at The Beverly Hills Hotel. It looked stunning as I have seen the pictures as well as coverage on this. Why did you want to do this, what was the idea behind it, and how long did it take you to do as it was like a Met Gala Costume Institute’s Exhibition. (Editor’s Note: The Met Gala is the first Monday in May and is the Oscars for fashion. It launched in 1948 and was the brain child of fashion publicist Elanor Lambert who played a key role in launching NYFW. Although it has evolved since it’s inception, it's current iteration includes a red carpet with noted celebs dresses by designers that attend this event in a specific theme. The Met Gala is a charity and fundraiser for The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute. The Gala has traditionally been timed to mark the opening of its annual fashion exhibition. For 2024, the Met Gala’s dress code was The Garden of Time and the exhibit for this year is Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion and can be seen at the Museum and features 250 rare items from the Costume Institute’s permanent collection. The exhibit spans over 400 years of fashion history and includes Schiaparelli, Dior, Givenchy, etc. This year’s exhibit will include 3 main zones – Land, Sea, and Sky which pays tribute to the natural world).

WM: So the reason why The Beverly Hills Hotel was the place that I wanted to have that moment was that I have always been inspired by the 1957 Cadillac ad that was shot at The Beverly Hills entrance. I’m sure you know what I am talking about based on that reaction.

I have always seen that photo as such a glamorous moment in life. I have always been allured by it. I have always gravitated towards it so when it came to creating and curating an event for my next collection, I felt that I would use that moment of inspiration. I need to give my people that moment in a modern day life. To be able to be someone who looks up to the entire Metropolitan Museum and what they represent, an event like the Met Gala, I needed to make sure that whatever I deliver was up to that level because I know that I can. I know that I can, I know that I deserve it, and I know that my clothing is worthy of it. I know that my clothing is meant to be in those spaces because I see my work as my art and I know that what I can do, nobody else can do. I am truly and authentically me in my essence and in my work. It’s a mixture of me being so proud of my work and me being educated and making sure that what is being presented is not only going to impress me, my family, and my friends, but is also going to impress my clients, my peers, and anyone in the fashion industry. Because to me, it's such an honor to be able to get the feedback from people that know what they are talking about to be like, “wow, I’m impressed.”

AM: It was stunning to see it. What did it feel like to be in the room with everyone from your friends, family, clients, etc. to toast you like that as well as this body of work?

WM: It felt like the different dimensions of my spirit were coming together and being acknowledged. Like I was being celebrated for my creativity while also being comfortable in my skin, in my queerness, in my creativity, in my aura while celebrating my family and being a beacon of light for everyone that has not only paved the way for me to be there but also paved the way for people who will walk after me. To me, I want to be that leading force and to show people, if I can do it, you can do it. You just have to believe in it and you have to work hard. You have to be consistent because this just doesn’t happen overnight.

That’s why I am so appreciative that you love and are aware of my journey because you have seen the elevation of my work, my craft, and my dedication.

AM: And consistency.

WM: Yeah, you have to wake up everyday and give it your best. I always believe that it doesn’t matter how fast you are moving, as long as you never stop moving. As long as you can say that you are better than you were yesterday, that is all that matters.

AM: Absolutely – 100%!

What is the next project that you’re going to be working on that we should keep an eye out for?

WM: That’s a hard one! There is a lot going on, but I do like to be mysterious as I always like to surprise people. Even for this event when I was sending out the invites, it was “you are invited to the Walter Experience.” So many people like my close friends, were asking what it was, what it meant and I told them, it’s a Walter Experience – when you get there, you will know! I wanted it to be an experience and a moment where I could show me and the way that I process things and it’s such a complex way. Even when I was working on the set design with the team and Butterfly Floral, I was like, “it has to be bigger, it has to be grander.” They were trying to process it and asked me if I was sure. They wondered if I wanted things so giant.

AM: Yes!

WM: And I was like, “YES!” It is important for me to have people to be able to look up because that is a moment that for me, reminds me of my childhood. Always feeling like I was looking up and having that sense of wonder and exploration. Because this was a love letter to my inner me, I had to give that perspective.

AM: I’m sure you’re coming to the end on working SS25 in terms of the collection side. Are you going to be showing here in NY, are you going to be showing in LA – what can you tell us about that?

WM: I can definitely tell you that that is what we are in talks on with the team. It’s really amazing to see not just the response here in the States, but also the international response from other fashion capitals of the world. To hear them tell me that they love what I do and that they would like us to show there and to be part of their calendar for Fashion Week. It’s so surreal because every season that I come out, I am so excited to see the Fashion Weeks around the world and to have them now that these companies and production companies now want me to be part of those Fashion Week calendars it’s a blessing! It just makes me so happy because those moments it's so much but in a blessing! It just makes me so happy because those moments it's so much but in those times I come alive! I know that I am meant to do that. Something comes over me and I just get comfortable in those spaces.

The fact that I am able to do what I love and be authentically me and then be able to produce art that is so widely celebrated, it’s such a beautiful feeling.

AM: You have worked on so many dresses so I know this will sound difficult. Are there 3 that stick out in your head? Whether it’s the dresses themselves or a moment that generated making them, or the clients themselves? Are there 3 moments/dresses/looks in your career where you were like, yes this is what I really love?

WM: Yes there are 3 and yes it is very hard to narrow it down to that. I’ll pick 3 that have just felt like full circle moments for me and have just touched me to my core. Because to me, now I am at a position where it’s very important for me to always celebrate that child and celebrate that inner child that dared to dream because that’s literally where it all started.

I would say that one moment that was really special was the first time that I dressed Beyoncé (Mufasa: The Lion King, Homecoming: A Film by Beyoncé, Renaissance: A Film by Beyoncé) as it happened on my birthday. I just remember sitting there thinking that Queen B just redefined my brand! I will forever remember not just my birthday, but the first time that I got to dress her. It was a beautiful moment because the first that that I got to dress her, it was the first reveal post twins. All eyes were on her and everyone was watching. So to be able to design a piece for her that not only made her comfortable but also made her look absolutely stunning, it was a huge moment where all eyes were on her and to be part of that was just amazing and it was a blessing. So that would be one of my absolute favorites.

Another favorite piece that I absolutely loved was working with Mariah Carey (Precious, The Butler, Girls Trip) for her Vegas Residency and to see my gown on all of the billboards all over Vegas and even here in LA the billboards promoting her. That residency in Vegas was such a surreal moment because I had a flashback to the younger me when I was in 7th grade in my ESL class because English is my second language. It hit me because I literally picked Hero by Mariah Carey and that was the song that I chose to translate to present it to the class!

AM: I love that song!

WM: I had completely forgotten about that and then it didn’t hit me until that moment. I went to the opening night of the residency and she closed the night with that song. It was such a beautiful moment for me to get to experience and for me to be able to look back at that little boy and think, wow. The journey to go from that moment in my life to this one! It was just a full circle moment. That was a really special moment.

Then the third one, I have to say that that one is hard. There are so many special moments. I mean there are so many people. I am going in between Selena Gomez (Only Murders in the Building, Selena + Chef, Selena Gomez: My Mind & Me), JLo (Enough, Hustlers, Atlas), Paris Hilton (The Simple Life, Paris in Love, This is Paris) – there are so many moments! Even my Oscars moment last season was so special. It’s really tough!

AM: I recognize that as I knew it would be!

WM: There’s also 2 epic Beyoncé moments!

As a whole, I remember growing up as a kid, I had all of these posters of singers. Remember those tabloid magazines like J14? I had all of these posters of these celebrities over my bed. Every celebrity on that wall, I dressed! Like Britney Spears (Kenan & Kell, Will & Grace, Crossroads), working with her was such a beautiful experience for me because my first exposure to American music and the English language – I learned to speak through the voices of beautiful talented artists like Beyoncé, Mariah, Britney and now here I am at a point where they believe in my art.

AM: You have left such a mark on the fashion industry, what do you want your legacy to be?

WM: I think that my legacy is wrapped in the word authenticity. I really push all of my clients that I dress and I do it with the way that I present myself and people really finding their true beauty and authenticity. We all know what we want.

When we’re all going somewhere and we know what we want, we say I want to wear this, I wish I could wear that etc. We know what we want and sometimes it’s a matter of being afraid or not wanting to do too much and some people wonder whether wearing something will get people talking. But you know what you want so if you know what you want, why not?

That is what I want my legacy to be. I want it to be about authenticity. So when people come to me, I tell them to tell me what they’re dreams are. I want to be let in and no limits so I know the vibe, the essence, and who you are as a person. What do you want to show? Forget what people are going to say – it’s about you – what do you want? I try to do that with even the way that I dress. I dress for me and I’m not trying to follow a trend or to be like anyone else. I’m doing me and that lets me radiate on my own terms and on my own level.

AM: As someone who I know your schedule is always packed, when you’re not designing or working on the next project, how do you take time for yourself? Do you find that time because I know when you work for yourself it’s tough to turn it off and we have to figure out ways that we can focus on ourselves so that we are infusing our energy back to us. That way we can be our best selves for everything that we are doing?

WM: I do try to make it a time to give time for myself. I do know that it takes a lot whether I’m meeting with my clients or I am going into fittings. I invest all of my in my work and with people so it’s very draining, but I always make it a point to make sure that I have my me time. My gym is in the mornings, my yoga classes, those are my me times. I try to make any moment that I can with me – even if I am just walking around the city. I put my headphones on and I put a song on that makes me feel good. I am runway walking down the street – that is me! It’s just what brings me joy, it clears my mind, and it sort of allows me to process it. Because despite it being a lot of work and very demanding, and a lot to process and deal with and manage because I have a large team at the Atelier from pattern makers, sewers, hand beaders, and teams of assistants, the PR team, the Social Media team – it’s a lot to drive the energy of my village. It takes a village, but to me, I am in charge of driving that energy and it’s very draining. Now when I say draining, I mean it in the most loving way. To me, draining is not a negative word. It’s sort of like, if you love to run marathons, it’s going to be draining – but you love it! But I always make it fun. This is fun. I live in a fantasy world. Because I love it, I find those me moments in there.

AM: I totally get and feel the same way!

WM: Even talking to you right now! I’m having fun!

AM: That’s the thing! We get to do so many things and to engage with so many people that you may feel tired, but when you love what you’re doing you’re always able to dip into that well. Somehow, you figure out how you can refresh yourself.

In this industry and I know you know of people like this as well, they went out for something that they wanted to do, it didn’t work out and then they either stopped or soured on the experience. Then there are those such as yourself that wanted it, found a way, and they are living exactly what they wanted and I always find that to be amazing and energizing as I love knowing those stories especially when it’s from those that I have admired their work from their beginnings and have been able to see that trajectory over time. It’s such a vibrant community to be part of.

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PHOTOGRAPHY CREDITS | FRONT/BACK COVER, PG 16 Chris Martin | PG 19, 20, 23, 24, 28, Alex W Photography | PG 31 - 34 for 9LIST STORI3S Kelly Balchim |

Read the JUN ISSUE #102 of Athleisure Mag and see BEHIND THE SEAMS | Walter Mendez in mag.