THE CONDITION OF CONDITIONING

Conditioners can impact how our hair holds a style as well as its overall health and appearance. With so many feeling confused by the options of this product, do you leave it in or rinse it out, and which kinds are best to use? We connected again with Maya Smith to answer these questions. She is an International Master of Natural Curls and founder of The Doux®, a haircare line created specifically for naturally curly hair which includes The Fresh Rinse® conditioner.

ATHLEISURE MAG: What are the benefits of a conditioner?

MAYA SMITH: Conditioners help protect the hair from dryness and breakage by coating the hair shaft to help it retain moisture and softness. People tend to use it mainly for the added benefit of detangling hair however, it’s important to choose a conditioner that won’t weigh your hair down.

AM: What are the benefits of a rinse? 

MS: A rinse, unlike a conditioner, does not coat the cuticle of the hair. A rinse has a much thinner consistency and is in actuality a detangler.

AM: Do I use a leave-in conditioner or a conditioning rinse?

MS: You can use both if your hair is dry, course, or color treated, however, fine hair or hair that tends to be porous should stick to conditioner only.

AM: Should everyone with curly or kinky hair use a conditioner?

MS: Yes. Conditioners help maintain the hair’s elasticity, or its ability to stretch and expand without breaking, which is essential for curly hair.

AM: Do I use a leave-in conditioner or a conditioning rinse?

MS: You can use both if your hair is dry, course, or color treated, however, fine hair or hair that tends to be porous should stick to conditioner only.

AM: How long do I leave in a conditioning rinse?

MS: Follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Every formula is different, so you want to be sure to use the product as directed to avoid under or over-conditioning. You can always leave it in a bit longer or switch to another conditioner specifically for the result you want to achieve.

AM: What’s the best water temperature to use when rinsing it?

MS: I prefer luke-warm to cool water, because it helps the cuticle of the hair close during the rinse, which makes the hair shiny and sleek.

AM: How much conditioner should be used for every inch of hair?

MS: It depends on the density, or thickness of the hair. Again, follow the manufacturer’s directions on how much to apply. Many suggest the amount of a quarter however if hair is thinner or really thick you may need more or less.

AM: What are some ingredients that can weigh hair down?

MS: Oils and certain types of silicones can weigh hair down. However, some formulas include these ingredients intentionally, because of the smoothing effect that they create on the hair. This is why it’s important not to leave it in too long and to make sure to get it all out unless it’s a leave-in conditioner.

AM: What ingredients should be avoided?

MS: I’m not a fan of petroleum jelly, or mineral oil. There’s a lot of controversy surrounding silicone, but what most people don’t know is that silicones get a really bad rap because they’re commonly associated with silicones found in products that aren’t made for your hair. Cosmetic-grade silicones like dimethicone actually creates slip, protects the hair from breakage, and helps the hair shaft retain moisture during the styling process.

AM: What about conditioners for color-treated hair?

MS: Some ingredients can break down artificial pigment in the hair, causing it to fade, look dull, or turn brassy. Make sure that the label says that the product is color-safe. You certainly want to switch to products formulated for color-treated hair.

AM: Can I dilute a regular conditioner with water and use it as a detangler?

MS: You can, however, I recommend opting for a product that was intended to be a leave-in conditioner. This will help you avoid unnecessary build-up. Some people like to put a leave in conditioner mixed with water in a spray bottle and add it to their beach bag. After swimming they spray it in to make hair easier to comb through.

AM: What are some mistakes people make when using a leave in or a rise out conditioner?

MS: It's worth noting that over-conditioning is the most common mistake, because too much coating on the hair can cause dryness, brittleness, and ultimately breakage. Make sure you’re not leaving a conditioner in longer than 3 minutes unless the manufacturer instructs you to do so.

Read more from the May Issue and see The Condition of Conditioning in mag.

HOW TO CALM CRAZY WAVES AND UNRULY CURLS INTERNATIONAL CURL EXPERT SHARES TIPS

For those with naturally wavy, curly hair of all coils and textures it may seem like an endless battle to find ways to tame the mane. Some may turn to relaxers, weekly blowouts or extensions. Others just want to master their natural hair in whatever mood it seems to be in. To help girls get a handle on their curls we connected with Maya Smith, founder of The Doux salon and product line of the same name both specializing in making the absolute most of the natural hair you’re born with. When it comes to healthy sculptured, cool looking curls of all types, Maya’s two decades of experience with curls worldwide makes her a true expert. Here she offers tips on how to calm crazy waves and unruly curls.

#1: My naturally wavy hair is flat at the top and then waves start in the middle with tighter curls at the back. HELP!

Genetics determine curl pattern and density. It’s totally normal, in fact, quite common for several different textures to exist on the same head of hair. These inconsistencies can cause the hair to look uneven, and are most apparent once the hair has dried. I created The Doux’s Mousse Def, to help define waves and curls in the less curly areas, and to combat frizz in the areas that are tightly coiled. To balance the look of curly and wavy hair, we recommend using a combo of a mousse on the straighter areas, and then a balm like The Doux’s Bonita Afro Balm Texture Cream for added stretch and control in the tighter areas. The goal here is to keep hair shiny, touchable, and soft. If shrinkage or frizzing remains an issue, don’t underestimate the power of a great haircut. Awesome products combined with a professionally-shaped set of layers is my signature Rx for accentuating curls that vary in texture.

#2: I have curly hair and let it dry naturally. The second it rains, I get frizzy at the roots. I find myself revolving my hairstyle around the weather report. HELP!

Thirsty hair will try to “drink up” moisture in the air if it’s not adequately hydrated.

The key to eliminating frizz due to humidity exposure is to make sure that the hair is thoroughly conditioned before styling products are applied. This exact problem is what inspired me to create a solution in the form of a Fresh Rinse Moisturizing Conditioner, followed by The Light Shine Mist helps to hydrate and stabilize the cuticle, making it less prone to reversion. For added control at the roots, we apply a small amount of Bonita Afro Balm, which is our secret weapon for keeping curly hair from swelling in harsh weather conditions. These products can be found at select Target stores nationwide and at TheDoux.com.

 #3: I often wear my curly hair slicked back into a tight low bun or ponytail. Will this damage my hair? 

Style in moderation. Traction alopecia is a major epidemic among women with textured hair. This is typically the result of too much tension being applied to scalp for an extended period of time, and usually occurs due to hair styling such as braids, extensions, and tight ponytails. To avoid irreversible thinning of the hair, it’s important to avoid hairstyles that place constant pressure on hair, particularly in the temple and nape areas. Ponytails and “slicked” styles should be taken down at night, and tight accessories, such as headbands or scrunchies should be worn less frequently. 

#4: I wear my naturally kinky hair twisted and braided. How long could I leave this style in and how best to shampoo my hair while in this style?

I recommend shampooing once per week for hair with fine-to-medium density. I urge clients with high-density or extremely long hair, not to exceed more than 10 days without cleansing the hair and scalp. This helps eliminate bacterial growth that causes itching, flaking, and dandruff on the scalp. We use The Doux’s Sucka Free Moisturizing Shampoo to remove product build-up and dead skill cells, and Fresh Rinse Moisturizing Conditioner to soften, hydrate, and balance the hair’s pH. We’ve incorporated Shea Butter and Sea Silk to smooth the hair shaft and aid in moisture retention.

#5: What are some ingredients to avoid that many products for curly hair contain? Why is this damaging? 

Petroleum-based “grease,” as well as products that contain mineral oil may be old-school favorites, but are often the cause of dry hair. Heavy products that aren’t water soluble can coat the hair shaft, disrupting the hair’s natural ability to retain moisture. This dryness may go nearly undetected, because the hair is covered in product, however, the underlying dehydration causes hair to be brittle and stubborn. We recommend cream-based products that shampoo out easily, and allow the hair to “breathe.”

Check out the Jan Issue of Athleisure Mag

DOING THE DOUX

Maya Smith has been showing love to hair of all textures for years as an International Master Trainer who got her start as an assistant to celebrity hairstylist, Tracy Johnson. This military wife and mother of 5, opened The Honey Comb in Germany while her husband was stationed there. Her clients spanned from those in Europe as well as Africa as she was known for styling hair of all texture types.

Maya launched her haircare line with a cult following, The DOUX® initially overseas in Germany, France, Italy and Netherlands. When she came back to the states, she opened The DOUX salon in Macon, Georgia. This Christmas Eve, THE DOUX will be sold nationwide in Target. With the colder weather setting in, she shares tips on how to work with curly hair, select products and care for it.

People with wavy or curly hair are always looking for new products, tips and tricks to lock in their desired look. Whether they want to blow it straight, create looser curls or maximize their tighter coils, she shares her best tips for girls with curls who want to revel in their natural hair and create a style they love.

Understand the battle between oil and moisture.

The first thing people must understand is that there are opposite things going on at the same time. “Due to the shape of curly haired strands, the hair tends to be under moisturized. On the other hand, the curly haired scalp can get very oily. Managing these opposite demands is the struggle of girls who wish to keep their curls. The key here is knowing how best to address both,” explains Maya who led the movement for women to transition from relaxers to natural curls.

Be gentle when washing curly hair.

According to Maya, kinky, thick, coiled textures tend to appear “tough” and strong enough to withstand heavy manipulation. "in my experience, these hair types are actually the most delicate, and should be handled with care, she recommends.”

Step One: Pick your products wisely.

Maya applied over 2 decades of research and development based on working knowledge of hair texture and listening to what people wanted. “I created The Doux™ SUCKA FREE Moisturizing Shampoo and FRESH RINSE Moisturizing Conditioner as the one-two step that delivers both deep cleaning plus exceptional nourishment necessary for styling.”

Step Two: Prep for shampoo.

Maya’s professional instructions for curl mastery begins with rinsing hair thoroughly with water for a minimum of 30 seconds. “This helps to eliminate any water-soluble product buildup, such as hair gel or heat protectant. It also helps you save shampoo! Assuming you’re shampooing in the shower, letting the water run over the hair in a downward motion helps prevent further tangling, and allows the hair shaft to swell and the curl pattern to fully rebound.” For those with extremely thick hair, Maya suggests separating hair into 4 sections prior to wetting the hair for increased manageability.

Once the shampoo is applied, Maya recommends light manipulation at the scalp, going from the crown of the head to the nape of the neck. “Squishing” the hair up toward the scalp is a no-no. “Shampooing this way can cause unforgivable tangling and matting. I recommend repeating the shampooing process at least once.”

Step Three: Condition and comb through like a pro.

If your scalp was properly shampooed, conditioning is easy. “This time, you’re focusing on your thirsty ends first, working upward toward the scalp. Gently detangle with a wide-toothed comb
or detangling brush (the favorite is Felicia Leatherwood's "Brush with the Best” detangling brush) before rinsing, starting at the ends, working up toward to the roots. Remember to rinse with cool water which snaps cuticles shut, locks in moisture, makes your hair shinier and reduces frizz.”

When it comes to “co-washing” or “conditioner washing,” Maya equates the popular trend to washing your clothes with fabric softener. “In my experience, co-washing causes build-up on the hair, coating the cuticle and impairing the hair’s natural ability to absorb water. Oils, waxes,
and product residue harden on the hair shaft, making it more brittle and less porous over time. When the hair can no longer effectively absorb water, the elasticity of the hair is compromised, leaving the hair “crunchy” and stiff, where it is more likely to break. The result is hair that feels
dry and brittle, no matter what product you use to moisturize it,” explains Maya.

One of the things Maya Smith and her team of stylists are known for is their ability to restore hundreds of their clients’ curls, simply by getting them to trade in the co-wash for a gentle, pH-balanced moisturizing shampoo, like The Doux’s SUCKA FREE which properly cleanses hair of product residue. “Once you have the hair thoroughly clean it “drinks” up the necessary amount of moisture, and returns to its natural softness,” Maya clarifies.

Avoid alcohol and kick the crunch to the curb.

Styling products high in alcohol give curls a crunchy feel. They suck up every last bit of moisture. Hair spray tends to contain the most alcohol, while gels, mousses and anything that provides hold or lift come in second. “I recommend water-soluble gels that don't feel sticky on your skin, and aerated mousses or foams that resemble beaten egg whites, to give hair fullness,
control, and non-brittle curls," Maya says.

She adds that she created The Doux so it can be used on hair that is worn curly or straight. "Our clients purchase one set of products, and apply them differently to achieve the style they want. If you’re rocking curly hair today, you’re using The Doux’s Mousse Def and Bonita Afro
Balm for softness and definition, and The Light for shine. If you’re wearing a blowout, you’re still using the same products, but applying them less liberally, and using the shine mist as a heat protectant. It’s super simple and easy to follow once you’ve seen the results each of them deliver,” Maya explains.

Blow-Dry with a diffuser or hooded dryer.

Maya’s first choice for curly styles is to air dry. “If you don't have the time to air dry, then dry with a diffuser or hooded dryer on a low heat setting. A regular blow dryer nozzle disrupts the curl pattern and focuses hot air on one small section at a time, while a diffuser, dries curls evenly for a full, uniform look,” she explains.

Maya recommends always applying a heat-protecting product, then flipping your head upside down using a diffuser at the roots and mid-length making sure to dry the area completely to lock in volume. “It’s important to leave the ends for last, and leave them only semi-dry. Air drying the ends is your best option.” Care for the curls you were born with!

Read more from the Dec issue and see Doing the Doux.