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Athleisure Mag™ | Athleisure Culture

ATHLEISURE MAG™ | Athleisure Culture
  • FITNESS
  • Food
  • Beauty
  • Sports
  • Travel
  • Athleisure Studio
  • Athleisure List
  • Athleisure TV
  • THIS ISSUE
  • The Latest
  • ARCHIVE
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FOOD ANTHROPOLOGY | CHEF ANDREW WONG

September 30, 2024

We're always looking to add that next great restaurant to our list and when we're in London next, we have 2 Michelin-starred A. Wong as one of our stops! We took some time to chat with Chef Andrew Wong to talk about his passion for food, his culinary background, what led to him launching this restaurant and what we should have in mind when we come in for an epic meal. We also talk about what he does outside of the restaurant.

ATHLEISURE MAG: When did you first fall in love with cooking?

CHEF ANDREW WONG: I grew up in my parents' restaurant, and cooking wasn't something I was interested in. I went to university to have fun and escape work for a while, but I was drawn back in. It was when I decided to learn how to cook and enrolled in culinary college that I became more engaged with the whole thing and saw it as something I could make a go of.

AM: What was the moment that you realized that you wanted to be a chef?

CHEF AW: After graduating from culinary college, I travelled through China on a working tour to learn more about the roots of Chinese cuisine. This was eye-opening, as I discovered the vast regional differences in cuisine and understood the cultural context and history behind dishes and techniques. Once returning to London, I continued learning and researching Chinese cuisine, where it all began.

AM: What was your culinary background in terms of what led you to going to culinary school as well as kitchens you trained in?

CHEF AW: When I was younger, my parents ran a Chinese restaurant called Kym’s. It was an old-school Cantonese restaurant and takeaway, filled with brightly coloured sauces, dragons, and everything you would imagine an eighties Chinese takeaway to be. I worked in their kitchen as a teenager but always said I would never want to be a chef.

When my father passed away, I needed to step up and help my Mum run the family business. Over time, I became more interested in the history of Chinese cuisine. I spent some time travelling around China and perfected and honed my new skills before deciding to close Kym’s and open A Wong.

AM: You launched A. Wong in 2012, why did you want to open this restaurant and what was your approach to the menu?

CHEF AW: My parents had been running their restaurant on that site since the 1980s. The restaurant had sentimental value and a good location in Victoria. There was no reason to open anywhere else, and I’m pleased we didn’t.

Our approach at A.Wong is to celebrate Chinese culture, craft, history, and techniques. Over time, the menu and cuisine have become more personal. I would describe it as ‘A.Wong cuisine.' This reflects my heritage, our exploration, and how we approach dishes.

The menu celebrates techniques, some very old and some more modern. We draw on the vast array of ingredients from the Chinese kitchen—fermented, dried, and salty—with vegetables, seafood, and meat to create a balanced and harmonious dining experience.

AM: Tell us about the ambiance of your restaurant and what guests can expect when enjoying their meal here.

CHEF AW: Fun, unpretentious, explorative, inquisitive, researched, and a celebration of culture, still keeping up with modern ways while keeping our techniques and cooking methods traditional.

AM: For lunch, what are 3 Dim Sums that you suggest that we should have in mind when we come in?

CHEF AW: Black Pepper Beef wispy pastry with tamarind and dried shrimp caramel, Rabbit and Carrot Glutinous Puff & Bamboo Pole Noodles with King crab and Spring Onion Oil.

AM: What is the Touch of the Heart menu and what are 3 items from this menu that we should try?

CHEF AW: Touch of the Heart menu is our lunch menu, which still offers guests a beautiful journey across the borders of China. I think every item on the menu has its own story to tell, but the three I would pick would be the 999 Layered Scallop Puff with XO Oil, Steamed Duck Yolk Custard bun, and Memories of Peking Duck.

AM: For dinner, walk us through The Collections of China menu that we can have for dinner.

CHEF AW: The concept behind it came from when I was travelling. I read and spoke with many people about Chinese cuisine, but experiencing the diversity of flavours first-hand is very different.

I wanted to give our guests an insight into these diverse, regional flavour profiles, from flash-frying to steaming carbohydrate menus, the amount of pickle, preservatives, and the type of fermented product. All these things are integral parts of a region's identity and its role in China as a whole.

AM: Tell us about your beverage program.

CHEF AW: At A. Wong, we offer close to over 350 different labels and vintages, including both new world and old-world wines. Veering away from traditional service, the interactive wine program, at A. Wong is centered around the concept of 'adventure and personal exploration.' Our sommelier team encourages the guests to sample a wider selection of wines by exploring lesser-known wines and understanding the flavour profiles of well-known old wines. To create contrast and adventure, our beverage pairings at lunch and dinner are served as multiple flights, and include craft beers, Chinese teas and vinegars alongside the wines. We want guests to play and enjoy the wines within a collection of dishes, and discover for themselves what they enjoy.

AM: What is the Forbidden City Bar and are there cocktails that are offered here that are specific to this portion of the restaurant?

CHEF AW: The Forbidden City Bar serves as a venue for enjoying intimate moments with your loved ones, where we serve classic signature cocktails and our own Forbidden City cocktails. Enjoy your pre-meal and post-meal drinks. The bar also welcomes non-diners.

The most signature cocktail available at A.Wong is the Peking Duck Old Fashioned, which is made of Johnnie Walker Whiskey infused with traditional Peking duck fat and roasting spices, hoisin syrup, and Angostura.

AM: As someone with an Anthropological background, how has that inspired the foods and the ingredients that you use?

CHEF AW: I’ve been working with Dr Mukta Das for about five years now. It’s a real privilege and one I don’t take lightly. We introspectively look at the cuisine in terms of flavour, technique, balance, and cultural etiquette. I think all of this – taste, cultural, and social, affects our perception of the dining experience and taste.

Mukta’s approach is from a historical point of view, looking at all sorts of economic and social aspects behind whatever dish we are researching. I look at it from a chef’s perspective, what it will taste like, what the texture would be, and how I can logistically make this happen.

We do a lot of research to ensure that the base flavour profiles are nearly identical to historical and technical Chinese techniques. But at the same time, I like to think that our food is quite explorative, in the sense that we don’t specify that our food comes from a particular region or style. I want people to take an interest in the flavours of a dish. I want to try and encourage people to go out and explore other Chinese restaurants that they may not have done before. This opens us up to criticism, but if what we are serving isn’t deemed “authentic,” that’s ok because it’s not supposed to be.

AM: Can you tell us what SOAS is and how it has influenced your restaurant? What does it mean to become an Official Research Associate there for the Food Studies Centre?

CHEF AW: SOAS is the School of Oriental and Asian Studies, a university in London. I’ve worked with them before, and becoming a research associate means they support my endeavour to learn more about food and the cultural discourse around it.

It means I interact with food as a cultural phenomenon. For me, the idea of humans as social beings is essential. This means when you talk about running a restaurant, it's not purely about the food. It's also about how humans interact in a space, with each other and with the experience.

It's an understanding we are social beings, and we like to communicate. We want to taste, see, and touch, which is very important for a restaurant. Restaurants are not just purely about food, interaction with the space and concept are integral.

Food is not just flavour; it is an expression of history, location, ingredients and choices.

AM: You received your first Michelin star in 2015 and you received another recognition in Jan 2021 with a second Michelin star making A. Wong the first Chinese restaurant outside of Asia to achieve this. What does this mean to you?

CHEF AW: The first Michelin star was for my team at A. Wong, they all work incredibly hard, and to be recognised was wonderful. Receiving the second star was an extraordinary moment for us at A. Wong. It was a significant achievement for me personally and Chinese restaurants globally. It was for our community, our forefathers. I am just a tiny part of the thousands and thousands of restaurants that have come before us. It's good to see that a global brand like Michelin broadens and represents multiple cultures and cuisines.

IG @awongsw1

PHOTOGRAPHY CREDITS | PG 92 , 96 + 99 James Gilles | PG 95 Jutta Klee |

Read the AUG ISSUE #104 of Athleisure Mag and see FOOD ANTHROPOLOGY | Chef Andrew Wong in mag.

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In AM, Aug 2024, Food Tags MICHELIN, Food, Chef, A. Wong, London, Chef Andrew Wong, Chinese Cuisine, Culinary School, Kitchen, Lunch, Dim Sum, Dinner, Touch of the Heart, The Collections of China, Forbidden City Bar, Cocktails, Peking Duck Old Fashioned, Johnnie Walker Whiskey, Angostura, Anthropology, Dr Mukta Das, SOAS, Food Studies Centre, School of Oriental and Asian Studies, Official Research Assistant
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INTEGRITY EXCELLENCE SUSTAINABILITY | CHEF FARIYAL ABDULLAHI

September 30, 2024

As the Summer comes to a close, we're looking ahead to the Fall and Holiday! We love being able to take time with friends and family and those that are in our inner circles to connect and many times, these gatherings take place in our favorite restaurants! It's within these 4 walls that memories are made, food is shared, and horizons are expanded. With the restaurant as the canvas, it is helmed by those give us the foundation for this exchange to take place.

This month's cover is Executive Chef Fariyal Abdullahi of Hav & Mar which is located in Chelsea's Art District in the Starrett-Lehigh Building. We talk about how a passion for food, fine dining, sustainability, and advancement led to a culinary career that has included phenomenal restaurants and a track record of integrity; her helming and being personally selected by Marcus Samuelsson (Red Rooster, Streetbird, MARCUS ADDIS) for this restaurant that is in the Marcus Samuelsson Group; being the Chef for and walking the Met Gala red carpet in 2021; being a judge on Food Network shows such as Chopped and Alex vs America, and being a James Beard Award 2024 Finalist! We wanted to know more about her culinary journey, her approach to food, sustainability, and changing restaurant culture.

ATHLEISURE MAG: It’s been such a fun day in being able to hangout at your baby, Hav & Mar and your cover editorial here with, a number of looks, and to see your restaurant and you in this way.

What was the first dish that you remember when you realized that you fell in love with food?

CHEF FARIYAL ABDULLAHI: Um, ok, so I grew up in Ethiopia and I am the youngest of 6 siblings. My mom would cook all of our meals herself – breakfast, lunch, and dinner. We were a family of 8, it didn’t matter. She always made it herself. You know, people say that their mom was a good cook, I can tell you objectively as a Chef that my mom was very talented and she didn’t have any formal training or anything. She was just very intuitive and very good at it. Because of that, everybody used to come to our house for food because her food was just that good! Holiday and everything, my uncles would be at the house. They were not at their wives homes with their cooking. They would be at the house and I noticed that at a very young age. I was like, “mom, you have to put me on!”

So it’s not a particular dish. But, she started me out with salad from the beginning. It was nothing that had to do with fire and stuff. I was a Garde Manger Queen (Editor’s Note: The pantry chef, commonly known as Garde Manger or Garmo is responsible for the preparation of cold dishes, salads, charcuterie, and appetizers in a commercial kitchen) when I was 6 years old. I was like, I want to do this, I want to do what you do. But it was also the process of – we’re very close to our food source. So, I have photos of me from when I was a kid making salad! We would go to the farm which was right around the corner from our house and they would grow the lettuce. So it was a whole process. I would go get the lettuce, the tomatoes, and all of that stuff and I would have the connection of seeing all of this stuff going from the soil, the farmers that grew it, and then I would go back home and it was literally a simple salad. Romaine Lettuce, Serrano Peppers, and Tomatoes – you didn’t even make a vinaigrette for it – it was just lime juice and salt.

AM: Oh wow!

CHEF FA: Yeah, that was my responsibility. It was very few ingredients, but it built my relationship that I had with food. It kind of made that first part where I had that connection with the people that grew my food. Then I turned what they did into something that was delicious to eat, and then everyone comes over - everyone pulls up. It was really that process where I was like, this is what I want. This is that thing that connects all of us.

AM: You graduated with a Bachelor’s in Clinical Child Psychology. When did you realize that you wanted to be a Chef as opposed to going down that track in terms of a graduate degree? You opted to go to the Culinary Institute of America in Nappa as opposed to staying on the psychology track.

CHEF FA: I always knew that I wanted to be in food. But, it’s the classic immigrant story where you leave your country and you go to America. The American Dream is that you are a doctor, lawyer, or engineer. Those are the 3 things. I would tell my mom when I was 14 or 16 that I wanted to cook and that I wanted to be a chef. And she would always tell me that that was a hobby and that it wasn’t a career. So when you’re a doctor, you can go home and cook as a hobby. That was your hobby, that was not a career. But I was like, “damn, that is really what I want to do!” As the youngest of 6 siblings, that’s what they did. So I have a sister that is a Neurosurgeon, my brother is an Immuno Oncologist – so he is doing cancer research, I have a brother and a sister that is doing Internal Medicine – so then it was my turn and I mean, I guess my second love is just knowing people and understanding behavior and that is why I went into Clinical

Psychology. But it never -

AM: It never really felt right.

CHEF FA: It didn’t! It really didn’t and I am a very empathetic person and so I got my Bachelor’s in Clinical Child Psychology and my sister who is in UCLA – both of my sisters are in UCLA, I went to go visit them and they said, “let’s show you the psych department.” They took me to where the children are and that’s what kind of changed me forever because I knew that I could not work with sick kids every day. I couldn’t do that and then go home with it! I knew that I would always go home with it! So that day, instead of applying to grad school, I applied to culinary school. I had my heart set on CIA because I had read 2 biographies from Grant Achatz and Anthony Bourdain and they both went to CIA and it is supposed to be the Harvard of culinary schools. I thought, hold on, if I get accepted to this school – this 1 culinary school, it’s go to be big right? So, I didn’t apply anywhere else, I just applied there.

AM: One shot!

CHEF FA: Yeah, one shot and I got accepted. So I told my mom, you have to let me do this.

AM: I used to have a teacher who felt that I should be a surgeon because in our labs when we were dissecting various animals, my precision in cutting was something that she loved. I had to explain to her many times that it wasn’t the work that I wanted to do, and that inspired me to find a piece that called back to that to bring it to this set. My mind will continue to run and replay a number of things and I can’t make my mind not work that way. I don’t know if I could take running a procedure in my head where something went wrong on that level and be ok.

CHEF FA: Yeah, I don’t know how they do it!

AM: So while you waited to hear about your application, you went to 18 countries and traveled for 3 months! What was it like to go to these places and for someone who already had an interesting palette already, how did you retrain that to take on all of these other areas that you had not previously been exposed to?

CHEF FA: So that was the purpose because I didn’t think that I had a palette. I don’t want to say advanced, but I didn’t think that I had a good palette yet. So the first 16 years of my life, I lived in Ethiopia, so I had a very high tolerance for spicy food, but also like very heavily spiced food. Things are very seasoned in Ethiopia so that is my threshold. I came to the States and my intro into American food became what I ate on campus.

I was like, “what is this flavorless, unseasoned – what is going on?” I swear that at 16, because I started college fulltime at 16, I used to walk around in my purse with Tabasco before Beyoncé said it, I swear to God that I had hot sauce in my bag! Because I was like, this ain’t it for me! It was just no flavor! It was that and the burritos, the burgers, and I’m in college. I kept thinking that there had to be an in between – hold on!

Yeah so, that was kind of the purpose behind my trip and I knew that there had to be more food out there. So it was 18 countries and now I’m on my 56th country. But in those 3 months, I did 18 countries and it was just to eat!

AM: That’s insane and amazing!

CHEF FA: It was cool because it’s like the whole 10,000 hours that Malcom Gladwell talks about (Editor’s Note: Malcolm Gladwell is a Canadian journalist, author and public speaker. He is known for his unique perspective on popular culture. He has been a staff writer with The New Yorker since 1996 and has published 7 books. He is also the podcast host of Revisionist History and the co-founder of the podcast company, Pushkin Industries. In his 2008 book Outliers, he states that, “10,000 hours is the magic number of greatness.” This theory means that to be considered elite or truly experienced with a certain craft you would need to practice it for 10,000 hours) it was the exposure of different flavors and textures that I would not have been exposed to if I had not traveled to these different countries. It became my little culinary school!

AM: Did you have a little travel journal and write down things as you navigated these countries?

CHEF FA: Yeah! I was solo too! I went by myself!

AM: Got it! Wow that’s a lot!

So what was it like to attend CIA and what were some of the kitchens that you trained in as you navigated to where you are here?

CHEF FA: So CIA, so I was responsible for my own tuition and that was the deal when I moved from Ethiopia. I did 8 hours of school a day, that’s how long our classes were – 8 hours, but then I would also work as a Teacher’s Assistant for the first 8 hours of my day. So that’s when I got into the 16 hour work day.

AM: Right!

CHEF FA: So, it was actually teaching me the work ethic that I needed honestly at the time, I didn’t know! I didn’t know how many hours people worked at restaurants. I had never worked in a restaurant before and there were no examples around me. So CIA in addition to obviously the culinary fundamentals, it was the first thing that taught me – ok, you can’t be tired. If you’re going to do this, you’re going to have to have the energy for this. I mean, it’s the Harvard of culinary schools and I do think that I got into Noma which was my first job ever – I mean Noma was the best restaurant in the world for 4 years in a row! It’s because I set myself up by going to the CIA!

AM: For sure!

CHEF FA: I felt like I was behind because when I was attending the CIA, my classmates were 18 years old and I was 25! I knew that I had to be on the fast track. Yeah, so it was essentially, a career change for me.

AM: Clearly, it all worked out as I’m sitting here talking with you in your restaurant!

CHEF FA: Yeah, I’m pretty much on a space ship and I’m on it.

AM: So, you were at Noma and I know that they are closing at the end of this year, but they will be more of a food laboratory and so that’s an interesting evolution with how they will continue their journey. So what are 3 things that you learned in your time of being at that restaurant? I mean when you hear of people who were at that restaurant, it’s no joke and it’s highly prestigious!

CHEF FA: I mean, especially with that being my first job ever! I remember when we were in culinary school getting ready to graduate and my classmates were like, we’re going to start off at this restaurant and then work our way up. I was like nah! I knew that I had to go straight to the top. They were like, you can’t do that. That’s not how the system is set up. You have to work your way up to Noma and I’m like, “cool, that’s what y’all are going to do.”

AM: But when you have a vision and you already feel like that you’re older than those that you have been with, you just can’t go at the same cadence because you have to make up for lost time.

CHEF FA: So the first thing that I learned at Noma is Integrity. Because my thing was that if I want to learn to be the best, I have to learn from the best! They were the best restaurant 4 years in a row and I was like, cool. What is it that makes them the best. It’s not always necessarily the food, what I learned there was Integrity is so high. Everybody was doing the right thing whether someone was looking or they weren’t looking. There’s no cutting corners. If this is how you’re shown how to do something, you do it. If there is something that is stopping you from doing it, you do it. Either way, you always do the right thing. That’s really powerful! So integrity!

10 years ago, the restaurant industry and kitchens are set up on this bully system I would call it. You get called all kinds of names, you get yelled at, that’s the relationship that you have with your Chef. The standard is always excellence and you will never reach that. So you're getting yelled at constantly every single day. So I was like, ok cool, this is how it is. If this is how it is, you just adjust to it. You learn how to have tough skin and you move on. But there is a changing area and I was getting ready to close out from the day and I heard René Redzepi (Editor’s Note: Danish chef and co-owner of 3-Michelin star Noma in the Christianshavn neighborhood of Copenhagen, Denmark) having a conversation with his leadership team and I guess there was this line cook that was being bullied and he just couldn’t take it anymore and he just left and he wasn’t answering anybody’s calls for 3 weeks.

AM: Oh wow!

CHEF FA: And people were like ok, whatever, if he’s gone, he’s gone. That day when I was getting ready to leave, I was in the changing area and I heard the conversation that René was having with his leadership team and he was telling them, “we have to shift the culture. How do you guys not care? What if this guy isn’t even alive right now? What is wrong with you?”

AM: That’s what I was wondering!

CHEF FA: He was really laying into them. He said, we have to be better. So he was like, “cool, you guys are going to go to his apartment, you’re going to find him and make sure that he is fed.” He was an intern so he wasn’t getting paid, but he was like, “do we need to pay him?” He wanted to find out all of this information. René’s wife was pregnant at the time and he thought that he was having a son and he was like, “if my son told me that he wanted to work in the kitchen, I would tell him no.” That’s because it is very abusive and we have to shift the culture and we need to be able to create a system where people want to come to work and that they feel appreciated and cared about. I was like, what is he talking about? That is not how kitchens run. Don't you just get yelled at and told that you ain’t shit?

AM: Yeah and you go into the corner and do a cry where no one can see you so you can get back in the game.

CHEF FA: Right? You go to the side, handle it and go right back out!

AM: Right? That’s how it was for me in fashion and that was just how it went!

CHEF FA: Yeah and I thought that it would be like that forever! But that was the first time that I had ever heard anybody talking about changing and shifting the industry! I thought, ok I guess that it could be different. So that sparked the biggest thing in me where it made me say that I run my kitchen with joy. I lead it with joy. I think that that is why we have such a high retention rate here. People want to stay working here.

AM: We have been here for a few hours and I haven’t seen anyone slacking, slinking off or even watching us do a photoshoot and having me interview you. Everyone is just focused!

CHEF FA: Yeah they have a very heavy prep list. They are super focused! They are totally fine! I am really proud of what I have built. It all stems from my Noma days. Build a workplace that people actually want to come to and I learned that from René and have integrity! Always do the right thing!

AM: You leave Noma and prior to Hav & Mar, what are some of the restaurants that you were working at between these 2 periods?

CHEF FA: Right after Noma, I went back to LA because that’s where my family lives and while I was there, I got a call from a Chef here in NYC and he was an Executive Chef at a restaurant called Caviar Russe which is a Michelin-starred restaurant and he called me and he was like, “hey, I need a prep cook." I was like, “damn, starting from the bottom. I just came from Noma!” But it made sense because there is such a huge gap in my resume because I went from culinary school to the best restaurant in the world and while I was at Noma – you know, that’s the third thing that I learned.

I learned that you determine your own growth in terms of how quickly you grow. Because I went as an intern and interns don’t really get to work the line especially prep, but I was out of the prep kitchen after a month and they put me on the line.

I remember that there was a huge symposium that they do called the MAD Symposium (Editor’s Note: René created the MAD Symposium which is considered the G20 of Food Industry Change) where they bring some of the best culinary minds and René would be on huge pins and needles and he was very anxious to make sure that service went well. Obviously, they had all the interns in the prep kitchen and he came upstairs and he said, “what are you doing here?” I was like, “Chef, this is where I was put.” And he told me that I was going to be working on the line. He put me on the line for one of the most important services that he was about to do. So I said, “got it Chef.” I just put my head down and I did the work.

AM: Inside, you must have been like, argh!

CHEF FA: Oh yeah! I mean, we’re extremely close, but he could be very intimidating. So, we always knew when he was in town because when he is in the kitchen, all you would hear (Chef Fariyal pulls her keys out of her pocket and puts her finger through the keyring and flips the keys over and over through the loop) is those keys and you would say, “Chef’s here.”

So he put me on a station with a Sous Chef from Finland and he was this massive guy! He said, ok you're going to work this station with him. The Sous Chef was like, “don’t say nothing. All you have to do is shuck these 200 year old clams and that’s it!” I mean, dude, they were the size of my palm. I’m like wow 200 year old clams, but I was like, “yes Chef.” He let me know that no matter how intense it got, all he needed me to do was to stay calm and just shuck these clams. So I said, “yes Chef.” 5mins into service, René comes around the corner and starts screaming at the Sous Chef and asking him why his station was dirty. It was not even dirty. “Why is your station dirty? You know what, stop, everyone come here. Look at how nasty his station is.” He kicks the Sous Chef out of the kitchen and now I am in the station by myself.

AM: Oh no!

CHEF FA: I said, “the Sous Chef told me to shut up and just keep shucking so I’m just going to shut up and keep shucking my clams!” So I learned to stay cool and to stay calm. So nothing gets me out of my zone.

AM: Nope!

CHEF FA: So that is my 3rd thing. You determine your growth because I was the only intern working the line on a shift that René kicked my Sous Chef off his station that I worked at and then it became mine. That was all because I put my head down and I put in the work.

AM: We also know that you accepted that job at Caviar Russe.

CHEF FA: Yes so Caviar Russe was the first job after Noma. They called me and I said sure, prep cook is kind of crazy, but sure. So I came and I moved to NY for that. Fine dining is my love and it’s what I love to do. But 6 months of doing that, making minimum wage and you’re in NYC – I was barely surviving – barely. I was like I don’t know how much longer I can sustain this. When I was in school, we always used to have job fairs and there would be this restaurant group, Hillstone.

AM: Oh yeah!

CHEF FA: They would always be in the school and try to recruit kids from the CIA. They have a few restaurants in NYC.

AM: Yeah, they had the spot at 53rd & Lex as I used to eat there quite a bit in my early days of living in NYC. That was my place at that time.

CHEF FA: I was never interested in working at a place like Hillstone. I was like, I’m a fine dining girl from CIA – what are you talking about? I’m not trying to make burger and fries! But then I was like, ok, fine dining is not cutting it. I’m literally a starving artist right now and I’m hungry and can’t even feed myself. I got recruited to Hillstone and I said, let me see what this is about. I went and I remember when I did my stage, I was like hold on, they may not be making the type of food that I am interested in, but the restaurant is run like a fine dining restaurant. So I thought hold on, maybe I can do this. They pay you a 6 figure salary right off the bat and I thought, I can do this and not be broke!

I was like, this is compromising the type of food that I love making, but it is done to the same standards. Also, the paycheck is cute and I did the switch from fine dining to Hillstone. I did that for about 5 years.

AM: That’s a long time.

CHEF FA: 5 years, 9 different restaurants, I moved 9 times to different cities, and I became the opener. That’s how I got my experience in opening restaurants. Anytime you are asked to open a restaurant as a Chef, that is a huge compliment because you’re laying the foundation.

AM: Yeah the standard.

CHEF FA: They’re saying that they want you to instill and to inject your work ethic and the trajectory of the restaurant is all based on -

AM: Your brand standard!

CHEF FA: Yeah so I opened 9 restaurants in 9 different cities with Hillstone.When I was with them, they had 53 restaurants in a number of major cities. It was a $650 million dollar restaurant. It was 1 owner, he did not go public.

AM: Oh wow!

CHEF FA: Huge!

AM: That’s a flex!

CHEF FA: That’s a flex! That is where I learned my leadership. That is 100% where I learned my leadership style. A lot of Chefs say that it is one of the best run restaurant groups in America. Hands down, easily.

So Caviar Russe to Hillstone and then I was like, I’m tired. By that time, I had been in the industry 8 years and there was never any Black women and even with Hillstone, I grew really quickly so after 9 months they gave me my own kitchen which was also very much so on the fast track. People had issues being led by a woman of color and they would make it very clear.

AM: Oh yeah.

CHEF FA: Like they would actually verbally say I’m not doing that. Why? Because you’re a woman and you’re Black. I would say, “cool, do you take a paycheck from a woman because guess who is writing your paychecks?” So if you’re cool with that, you’re going to do this task. But that was very exhausting. It felt like I was in a state of isolation. Because I was far away from my family, cities and states that I didn’t have friends or family in them. So I was very much so alone and then you go into work and they make it a point to feel even more alone. Even though I was Head Chef, you didn't really have much of a say. It wasn’t my food. I didn’t get to hire the people that I wanted. So I wasn’t making any of the changes that I wanted to make. I was tired and it was 2020 and I felt that I was done with the industry. I moved back to Ethiopia. I was like, “I’m done, this is wack and I’m not into it.”

Then I get a call from Marcus Samuelsson. “I was like, what the heck is happening right now?” He’s like, “Chef, it’s taken me quite awhile to track you down.” I was like, “what – what do you mean?“ I was so confused. He tells me about this restaurant. He told me that he was opening a restaurant in Chelsea and he wanted it to be run by me. I wanted to know more. He said that he wanted to build a sustainable menu and that he wanted it to be led by a woman of color as he felt that he had not put any spotlight on women of color.

So I was in Ethiopia for 6 months. I didn’t know what I was going to do. I was chilling. I still had my home and my brother still lives there – I was cool. There was no rush. So Marcus called and he said sustainable menu which really mattered to me a lot and having it led by women of color. I was like, “hold on, so I can make whatever food I want and I can hire whoever I want?” He was like, it’s you. It’s your restaurant. You can do what you want! So I was like, alright cool, I have to come back. Also, it didn’t feel like I was done with the industry.

AM: Right, you just needed the right fit.

CHEF FA: So this was my second chance at the industry. Then within a year and a half, we have had a stellar NY Times review, I’ve gotten my James Beard Nomination, all of this stuff and it’s like – wait, what?

AM: That’s so insane! You must have gotten off of the call and just been like – he’s been looking for me? I’m going to be working with this man?

CHEF FA: How? I mean – what? You’re looking for me? That don’t make no sense!

It was and it is and he is letting me do my thing. I’m really glad that I came back.

AM: It’s such a great story. I have had the pleasure of interviewing him before and I have also done a fun culinary video with him and seeing him at culinary events and competitions. Love his personality and his focus as well as everything about him is really amazing.

What does it mean to you for him to place you in this position and to have this massive responsibility as well as being able to chart your own path?

CHEF FA: It’s 2 things. There is that whole show that comes along with it. It’s a very public and media facing restaurant. I wouldn’t have known that I could be a voice for women of color in the culinary industry if he didn’t trust me with this you know? There is only 6% of women of color that are Executive Chefs which no wonder that we feel so lonely. I do know some women of color that are Executive Chefs, but they say that they don’t have to talk about it all the time. They feel that the more that you focus on race and all of that stuff, you’re taking away from your craft. But I’m like, people are making it a point to focus on it anyway.

AM: Exactly!

CHEF FA: Right, so why don’t you talk your shit?

AM: It’s intertwined!

CHEF FA: It is!

AM: You can’t do one without the other.

CHEF FA: People don’t want to separate it so I will talk about it. People immediately are only focused on the food. I am going to talk about it and he gave me the voice which I think really helps. Because now, so many women of color reach out to me and say, “Chef this is so inspiring. I almost gave up on the industry.”

But the other thing is that Marcus is the first and the only person to ever tell me this. When we first started opening the restaurant he could tell because I had never really worked for a restaurant where I was in charge that was this front facing. He started talking about that we would get reviewed in the first couple of months and I was like woah, “I have never had to deal with this.” I wasn’t sure if I could do it and he was the first person to ever tell me, “Chef, you’re here because you deserve to be. You know that right?” I’ll never forget those words. I’m like, “no actually. No one has ever said that to me. Not a single person has told me that you’re here because you deserve to be.” He told me that I worry about that way too much and that he brought me here because I made great food and I tell a great story. So he told me that, ”whoever walks through that door, if they don’t see you, that’s not your problem. You’re here because you deserve to be.” And that kind of felt like the shackles that I had the first 8 years of my career –“

AM: Broke.

CHEF FA: Yeah, it unlocked it. I was like, cool. I don’t have to prove myself to anyone. I’m here because I deserve to be. You know, you don’t see white men prove why they are there.

AM: No you don’t.

CHEF FA: Right, everyone just knows that that is what it is. They make the food, people see that is the chef and there isn’t anything else that has to be said or debated. So he gave that to me. He gave me the belief and the understanding that I am here because I deserve to be. He gave me that voice so it’s been very impactful. It’s the first time and I always tell my siblings that their job is important because they are literally saving lives. My job is not important and that is what I have been saying for the last 8 years, but now like I have been doing this for 12 years and it’s the first time that I have felt that what I do is important. I’m changing an entire industry in terms of how you can run a restaurant and also many people see that you need to bring more women of color into your restaurant.

AM: There are a lot of people out there in your space telling a story, but you need to also be out on platforms sharing how you’re rocking things too. To hear as you said that it’s less than 6%.

What can you tell us about this space, the ambiance, the design, and what can diners expect when they come here? I love how decadent it is when you look in. But there is a relaxing element to the space as well as whimsical with the Black mermaids which I love!

CHEF FA: Yeah! Well that’s all Derrick Adams! So when Marcus commissioned Derrick Adams to do the artwork here, he told him it was going to be a seafood restaurant and that it would be led by women of color. So immediately, Derrick Adams was like Black mermaids. He titled it, We Are From the Water Too.

AM: I love that!

CHEF FA: We Are From the Water Too! So Black mermaids. So Marcus always says, “when you lose the message of Hav, look at the mermaids.” Like, they will always bring you back to what our message is at Hav. Visually and aesthetically, the architects name is Zébulon Perron (Red Bull Music Academy, Broccolini Condo Store, Pancho) and he’s won awards for creating this space and he's actually amazing.

But I love how it looks simple, right? Which is why you can feel so relaxed and it doesn’t feel intimidating where you feel that you have to be buttoned up. But then you get into the details and it’s like woah, hold on!

AM: It’s very Matrix-y in some ways with the way that the fixtures are floating. There are sections and yet everything is still together. It’s mind trippy! A little bit like Salvador Dalí (Editor’s Note: A Spanish surrealist artist renowned for his technical skill, precise draftsmanship, and his striking images. Major themes in his work included dreams, stretching and mixing realities, as well as the subconscious.)

There’s just a warmth.

CHEF FA: And you know, he wanted it to be an open kitchen obviously. So I always stand in the pass (Editor’s Note: This is where plates go for a final garnish or inspection before they’re sent to the dining room. It’s also where components of a dish that are prepped at different stations meet to be plated together,) so I am the first person that people see. If we’re going to have a restaurant led by a woman of color, we’re not going to hide her. We’re going to make sure that people know that she is at the helm of it all. So I take my position right there and we have guests that walk up. Sometimes people are like, “can we meet the Chef?”

AM: It’s like, hello!

CHEF FA: Haha yes, hello! Were you expecting someone or something different?

AM: Sometimes they are!

CHEF FA: Well most of the time they are!

We get so many people that come up! Little girls and they’re like, “I want to be a chef!” This space! When I first walked in, there was nothing! It was rubble – a pile of rubble! I was like, “I don’t know what y’all see!” They did it just like that – 2 months!

AM: Really?

CHEF FA: Yeah!

AM: Wow!

CHEF FA: I love it here. I spend 80 hours in this building so -

AM: You know it very well!

CHEF FA: It’s not a bad place to spend 80 hours.

AM: What is the meaning behind the name?

CHEF FA: So Marcus is both Ethiopian Swedish. Hav is Swedish for ocean and Mar is the Ethiopian word for honey. So we are from the Sweet Waters which is how he describes it. But, it’s to pay homage to both his Swedish and Ethiopian roots.

AM: So what would you say the cuisine is and what are the ingredients and the flavors that are indicative of it?

CHEF FA: So when we were first talking about how we could make a sustainable menu, we kept coming back to seafood. Initially, he wanted to do a vegan restaurant.

AM: Part of me thought that this would have been a vegan restaurant.

CHEF FA: Right because when you talk about sustainability, that tends to be the best route to go. But then we were like, gosh, it’s really hard to tell our story through just plants. So we landed at seafood. I like to describe it as seafood. When we first opened it was, seafood told through the lens of the African Diaspora because it was very heavily influenced by African ingredients. I’m Ethiopian born and raised so a lot of Ethiopian influence, but I did a lot of West African ingredients too. Then we evolved because I have a Sous Chef from the Philippines and a Sous Chef from Puerto Rico.

PF: Oooo

AM: Yeah, both of us just said ooo at the same time!

CHEF FA: Yeah as the Executive Chef, the menu is mine. One day, I was feeling under the weather and my Filipino Sous Chef made me a traditional Filipino soup called Sinigang. I was in the pass and she saw me struggling as I was saying fire for the dishes. She said, “Chef, I made this for you.” I was like what is this and why is this not on our menu? She explained that it was from the Philippines and that they have a traditional soup made with fish. I was like, “you know we have a seafood restaurant?" Then I was like, hold on, I think that we should start bringing in their voices to the menu too. I don’t have to gatekeep this.

So then we started incorporating their dishes and then I think that that’s when Pete Wells (Editor’s Note: Pete Wells was the restaurant critic at The New York Times from 2011 – August 2024) came in to do the review and I was like, oh my God, we don’t really have an identity besides the fact that we are a seafood restaurant. He was like, “Chef Fariyal uses her global influence –.“ I was like, that’s who we are - we are a seafood restaurant. Some people will come in and say this is not African and I’m like we’re a seafood restaurant with a global influence. That’s it and now it has all of their global identities.

We have Puerto Rican flavors, we have Middle Eastern flavors, Filipino flavors – we have everything!

AM: That’s amazing.

CHEF FA: But the vessel is seafood. The seafood tells our story in terms of sustainability. It’s what keeps me up at night.

So when I was designing the menu and we were creating these dishes, we need to use as much of the ingredient as possible. I want very little waste. So the thing about restaurants is that we are one of the highest contributors of the Climate Crisis because we produce so much food waste and that ends up in landfills and I’m like how can we avoid all the waste that we produce here ending up in landfills? So it’s about using as much of the ingredient as possible.

So we are getting really creative so I have something called Ash Oil. So I was like, can we do anything with all of these scraps with the skins of scallions, onion skins, scallion tops that we throw away, garlic, and all of that stuff. Things that you would throw away and I thought that there has to be flavor in here! So we just put it in the Hearth oven which goes up to 800° and it gives it a nice char and then I blended it into a salt and then I mix that with oil so it has this super...

AM: Smoky

CHEF FA: Yes smoky flavor! So I was like, hold on this is edible and it gives this whole other dimension to dishes. So I was like, alright cool lets get really creative like that. Let’s use parts of ingredients that normally get thrown away. So that was Step 1.

Step 2 was how do I make sure that – obviously you can’t use 100% of everything.

AM: Right.

CHEF FA: How do I make sure that this doesn’t end up in landfills? So I did some research and found 2 different organizations one is called Afterlife. They come and pick up our compost every day. They grow mushrooms with our compost.

AM: Oh wow!

CHEF FA: I built a dish around these mushrooms so it’s like a full 360 moment. But then, the most important thing is that after they are done growing these mushrooms they take the substrate which is the compost and they turn it into soil and they create something called Biochar. So Biochar is soil, but it has the ability to sink carbon for a 1,000 years.

AM: Wow so they are a Circular Farm.

CHEF FA: Right, so I was like hold on, this is really fly! So all of our compost goes to them. I work with them a lot and they are doing a lot of really amazing things.

AM: And they are based here in the city?

CHEF FA: Yeah! They do all of that and they make Biochar by using our compost and then they donate the Biochar to farmers and it helps them increase their yield. So farmers are getting better yield while making sure that we’re not increasing the output of Carbon Dioxide to the air. They also donate it to parks and it goes to Governors Island. So they do all of these wonderful things with our compost.

AM: Wow!

CHEF FA: And then the second company, they’re called Billion Oyster Project.

AM: That’s the host of the dinner we’re going to on Thursday at Governors Island (Editor’s Note: You can read the story about this dinner from Outstanding in the Field in this issue).

CHEF FA: No way!

AM: Yeah Le Jardinier is the culinary portion and we’re very excited.

CHEF FA: Ok, that makes sense!

They are my second partner. So what they do is they collect oysters from restaurants and they are basically reconstituting the oyster population in the Hudson and all of the rivers here. What that does is it gives us a good filtration system. So they take our oysters because I’m like, let’s not get lazy with it. Technically, you could throw everything into a compost, but I’m like are there things that we can separate within the compost that makes better use? So since we have been open, Billion Oyster Project has been in the loop.

That is the most important thing to me. We can get all of the best accolades in the world. But the thing is, If you are contributing to a worse planet, what are you really doing?

AM: We have to do something and to keep researching for new innovations.

CHEF FA: Exactly!

AM: Wow!

CHEF FA: I like talking about it because for example, Afterlife they have 20 restaurants that they have partnered with in NYC. Do you know how many restaurants there are in NYC? That’s wild that there are only 20 restaurants that participate!

I eventually want to end up in policy. I do work with Save the Children. I do a lot of advocacy work and I eventually want to end up there. But for now, if you can implement the stuff while you’re on the ground, that’s a great place to start.

AM: I can see you doing Food Advocacy work as Tom Colicchio and Todd English, both of them are doing what they can and making their voices heard.

CHEF FA: It’s important! Listen, I am a mushroom fiend! They are very tasty.

AM: In looking at the menu, the flow of it is really great! What are 3 dishes from your Raw & Cured that you would suggest for those coming in?

CHEF FA: Raw & Cured, so I am a little biased with my Tuna Tartare.

AM: I love a Tuna Tartare moment.

CHEF FA: It’s so good! Tuna Tartare is a must. Hamachi has been there since we have opened. It’s a ceviche that I use called the Black Ceviche which is non-traditional and I use the Ashe Oil in there. It’s very acidic, but that Ash Oil gives it that other dimension of what I was talking about when I was saying smoky. That’s not very traditional for a ceviche. I can never get rid of that. It will be on the menu forever. There are just some things – I mean we are a seasonal menu, but there are just some things that’s just like, there will be an uproar if we take that off the menu.

AM: People will be like, wait, is it even a restaurant if I can’t get this here? Forks raised in the air – where is it?

CHEF FA: For real – picketing! The Hamachi Ceviche and there is a dish called the Swediopian. So it is something that we have had since the beginning. Swediopian is our play on words where it’s Swedish and Ethiopian. So way before this restaurant opened, Marcus and I did an event for Pepsi and it was around the Super Bowl and he wanted a dish that represented both his Ethiopian and Swedish roots and he said to play around with the cured salmon. So I cured it using Swedish techniques, but then I used berbere which is an Ethiopian spice so it’s a twice cured salmon.

AM: Oh wow so it’s punchy.

CHEF FA: Yeah very actually. You guys need to come in and eat. Seriously.

AM: Oh we will, we want to be able to try that.

CHEF FA: So those three from the Raw & Cured are great!

AM: What are 3 Small Plates that you suggest that we should enjoy?

CHEF FA: Small Plates, we do a beautiful Scallop here.

AM: I love a Scallop.

CHEF FA: Yes, we have our Fall Menu coming in 3 weeks and so the format will change again.

Yes and the Salad is a big hit too! We always bring that in every Summer. I have this formula that I use. For this particular Salad I do a purée and it’s about what ingredient is at its best during the season? So for the Summer Salad, I do a corn purée then Heirloom tomatoes because you know and then I do a compressed watermelon.

AM: Wow!

CHEF FA: What could be more Summer than that? So I always say get the Summer Salad and the Scallops – those are my 2 favorites.

AM: What is Happy Hour like here?

CHEF FA: Happy Hour is from 5-7pm. We have a separate menu that we do and our General Manager Tia, a woman of color whose Jamaican, she’s a Somm and she does the Beverage Program here.

AM: Wow!

CHEF FA: So she wears many hats! So she makes awesome cocktails. We work in tandem and she takes ingredients from the kitchen that we are processed and done with and instead of throwing it away and making waste, she makes cocktails with it.

AM: Oh that’s smart and the sustainability continues.

So that means some of your cocktails are even a bit savory as well?

CHEF FA: Yup the Hav & Martini – so I make pickled red onions that I use as a garnish and I put beets in it to make that beautiful pink color. So when we're done pickling it, we used to toss out the juice. But she uses it in her Hav & Martini.

AM: I like that!

CHEF FA: Yeah it’s this beautiful pink hued beverage. She has this really beautiful way of explaining it because I don’t drink alcohol and I’m Muslim and I have never been in that world.

The way that she explains it she’s like this cocktail uses onions and this is why. I’m like, girl I don’t know, but it sounds good!

AM: It’s smart because there are a lot of studios in this area -

CHEF FA: Art studios.

AM: So you’re open for dinner every night. Do you ever foresee a lunch service? What was the decision behind this?

CHEF FA: So one thing that I love patting myself on the back for is because when you start getting to this whole thing – James Beard, Michelin, and all of that stuff – people equate how difficult it is to get into a restaurant with how successful that restaurant is. I always tell people – it’s not a competition, but when you look at and line up all of the restaurants, I have 140 seats. We are open 7 days a week and a lot of these restaurants are not open 7 days a week. They’re not and in this post COVID climate, it’s very challenging to have enough staff to be open and operating 7 days a week and that’s a really huge deal.

AM: Yup!

CHEF FA: And most of the restaurants, I mean this is a very big operation in terms of seats.

AM: When I walked in, I thought, they’re not playing.

CHEF FA: Yeah so 140 seats, 7 days a week. I’m like, you guys don’t understand – like when you guys are like who is the best chef? Look at the operation also, you know what I mean? I could run a 12 seat restaurant that’s open 4 days a week. I could run that very easily. So it already is doing the most because we are open 7 days a week in this restaurant. But Marcus does have pipe dreams of being open for lunch and I’m like, “Chef, where are these people? Where is the staff that I’m supposed to find?” I would say that that is the biggest challenge of being open for more service – it’s just not the same. The pool of people to hire is not the same at all.

AM: So speaking to that, what is an average day like?

CHEF FA: So the operating hours is that we are open from 5-10pm.

So there are 2 shifts. The AM team gets here at 8am. They are here from 8-4pm. They prep the food that all the guests are going to eat. So our rule is, “today’s food, for today’s guests.” So everything is made fresh inhouse every day. There is no rolling over. I have a Sous Chef, I have a Pastry Chef, 2 Prep Cooks, and a Dishwasher.

AM: Wow.

CHEF FA: So that’s who’s here from 8 – 4pm.

Then at 3pm, my line team gets here. So they are the ones that cook the food. So there is an hour overlap between the 2 of them. But they will be here from 3 – 11pm. So there is the prep team and the service team.

AM: Oh wow.

CHEF FA: I have to kind of be here for both.

So I get here between 12-2 and then I stay here until the last table leaves.

AM: So on your admin day, is that when you are touching base with the group?

CHEF FA: So with the group, we have weekly meetings every Wed. So we have our meetings with our Director of Operations. The only reason why she is here today is because our General Manager is in Chicago. But we have a meeting with her, our CEO, and our CFO every Wed. about our P&L. So I have to know every single penny that comes into this building and every single penny that leaves this building. So I always give them a presentation every single Wed. This is where we’re at, this is the goal, this is what my food cost is, this is what my labor cost is, and this is our bottom line. It’s every Wed. and I have to be prepared to talk about our numbers in and out.

But when I say admin stuff, it’s like every Mon. we do payroll. Bit every day, I process invoices. So there is always something. Or there is scheduling I do that every week.

AM: You are a woman of many hats.

CHEF FA: It never ends.

AM: So obviously we were talking about the Met Gala earlier during your shoot. You looked phenomenal on the red carpet. What did it mean to you to be part of that event in addition to obviously doing the menu itself? Just being in that apex of fashion.

CHEF FA: So in the moment, I obviously didn’t grasp how big it was!

Somehow in the end it looks like I’m a fashion forward person ...

That was important for me 1 – it was kind of my debut. We had done so many shoots with Vogue and a lot of stuff and it was like, Chef Fariyal, Chef Fariyal. I was always cooking behind the scenes and now it was like, people know me as a chef now. It was cool and that’s what kind of catapulted the whole TV and media. Because that is when I got a call from the President of Food Network. They were like, hold on, who are you and why are you not on TV? I was like what do you mean because I’m a Chef? What do you mean TV? But that is what catapulted it all. It was that Met Gala, that red carpet.

AM: You were on a lot of the main pages of a number of international editions of Vogue as well as the one here. It was like Lady Gaga what? I remember thinking wow and she’s a Chef on that red carpet – wow. It’s like that’s huge because I thought that she would be in the kitchen.

CHEF FA: I thought that I was going to cook, but no!

AM: What does it mean to your brand because you are doing Chopped as a judge or you’re on Alex vs. America as a judge, or you’re on your Roku show, Celebrity Family Food Battle, and you have done different kinds of things. What does that mean to you when you look at that particular component. Because it feels like being a Chef now – although you don’t have to do this – it has become elevated where you have to have these other touch points that includes TV.

CHEF FA: So it kind of goes hand-in-hand. One of the reasons that the restaurant has been successful is that obviously we’re blessed to have Marcus and his brand behind it and now it’s 50/50. Just as many people walk into the building to meet me as they do asking for Marcus and it’s because I do so many things and when they introduce me on TV they say, that is the Executive Chef from Hav & Mar. So it really helps and my brand is very closely tied to Hav & Mar. So we keep those butts in these seats.

AM: You’re rocking those 7 nights!

CHEF FA: Yeah!

AM: And being a finalist for James Beard. What does that mean to you?

CHEF FA: Oh my gosh, that was never – to me, it was one of those things like James Beard wasn’t even a North Star for me. It wasn’t something that I thought would ever be in my world or something that I could even attain. Then when I moved to Hav & Mar and we opened this restaurant, Marcus asked me what some of my goals were.

I was like, James Beard and he said, “oh, ok.” I was like, “what you mean?”

AM: And he was like what part did you not get? The O or the K?

CHEF FA: I want to be nominated for a James Beard. The other thing was Food & Wine Best Chef. I wanted to be in that category too. And he made me write a list and he said that these were all things that we could work towards. I didn’t think that it would come so fast within my first year of opening the restaurant.

So when I got my nomination for James Beard, I was on set at Chopped and the list came out. It was like right between takes and my phone because I always have it under my leg, it was going off. I was like is the restaurant on fire? What is going on? So I kind of snuck a look and I was like what? James Beard – whatever. And then in between, I read the first text and it was like, congratulations you are a nominated and I was like, what are they talking about? So I was with my co-judges and I was like, Tiffany, I just got nominated for a James Beard and everyone was like what that’s so cool! Then it was like, “and action!”

So literally this is happening in between takes and obviously everyone on set knew how big of a deal this was and what made it really special was that at some point, somebody went out and got flowers and a card. They made the entire team come out on set – every single person that works on Chopped came to give me flowers.

They announced it and said Chef Fariyal is a James Beard nominated Chef! It was very emotional.

AM: That is very cool!

CHEF FA: It was really emotional and how cool is that moment? I’m on the set of Chopped, we’re their celebrating a James Beard nomination and then of course, everyone was like wow just to be nominated is really important and a lot of people don’t even make it to the finals. The people were making sure that I didn’t get my hopes up. But sure enough, I made that shortlist too! It was like what? This is insane. So now, we’re really pulling up. We’re pulling up to the James Beard Awards – this is amazing. I thought that up until that moment that it was just the nomination that mattered to me.

But then, I am in the first category. I sat down, there was a quick presentation. First award of the night is the Emerging Chef Category. I had this super powerful and emotional speech written. I had envisioned it, I was going to go up there and Marcus had given me a pep talk and said that not that many people get it on their first nomination. So if they don't say your name, just try to find it within you to not be disappointed. Because the fact that you made it this far is insane.

AM: Yeah, it’s huge!

CHEF FA: Right so it’s my first nomination. I just remember that they didn’t say my name. I was like woah, I want that. But I didn’t know that I wanted to win. I thought – I mean my goal that I had written down was – I wanted to be nominated. But when they didn’t say my name, it was a 2 second thing where I said, I do want to win. Next year. Then afterwards, the President of James Beard came up to me and everyone was coming up to me and everyone was shocked. They thought that I really had this one. But they told me, you know you’re going to be here many, many, many more times.

AM: Exactly! And the dress you wore was amazing!

CHEF FA: That was like full on from my tribe! Because I did a little bit of it for Met Gala with the headband. But then I wore the full attire this time. That was part of the speech too! I was like gosh, I have to wear it every year now?

AM: Well, you set a little precedent for yourself.

CHEF FA: I did! But that was really important you know because I -

AM: Well representation!

CHEF FA: That’s the thing! I represent 4 voices in America – I’m Black, I’m a woman, I’m Muslim, and I’m an immigrant. 4 of the most underrepresented voices and I think about that every day. I just can’t carry myself like that – this stuff matters, you know what I mean? People are paying attention to me and I have to be very careful about how I speak, what I say, and it’s not all fun and games.

The reason why I was disappointed that I didn’t get it is because we talk about so much about how this is – I always talk about how we need to give women of color more opportunities in the kitchen. So when I got the nomination, it wasn’t just me, I was making a case and a point for why more people of color should be nominated in these things. Then when I didn’t win I was like, gosh, did I let everybody down? I don't know.

AM: No, not at all.

CHEF FA: I got us in the room.

AM: You got in the room and like you said, you will have many more opportunities.

Do you envision having your own cookbook? I know that you had a recipe that was included in a cookbook.

CHEF FA: They are on my case every day!

AM: Haha I can imagine.

CHEF FA: It’s definitely in the pipeline. It’s just a matter of me finding the time.

AM: Last year, we had the pleasure of covering the Food Network Wine Food Festival and this year, you are going to be participating. How excited are you to be part of it, is this your first time?

CHEF FA: This is my first time!

Well I’m doing -

AM: I know that you have a sit down dinner that you’re doing right?

CHEF FA: It’s a Hav & Mar X The Musket Room Brunch with the chefs from The Musket Room. So that’s Mary Attea and Camari Mick. How much more aligned can we get? Like Camari is also killing it in the game! So we got on the phone and we came up with the menu in like 3 seconds and we knew that this was going to be so fun. But I think that that will be so powerful. That should be fun so I’m excited.

I’m also doing the Blue Moon Burger Bash: Champions vs. Challengers presented by Pat LaFrieda and hosted by Rachael Ray.

That is going to be fun, a little burger competition.

AM: We loved the spread of coverage and the fact that you could to eat a number of amazing dishes, connect with people we have covered as well as to hang out with the food community, it’s a good time.

I love that we’re living in a time right now where people are understanding more and want to get a better awareness of the restaurant industry. That’s whether you’re watching Chopped, Top Chef, or The Bear.

CHEF FA: Oh yeah.

AM: I love The Bear!

On your IG, you’ve been talking about the industry, explaining terms, and giving people an inside scoop. Why do you also enjoy sharing this aspect so that people are able to know more about you, but also the industry?

CHEF FA: It was kind of a natural progression from people developing an interest from watching these programs. There are all these Food Network shows, but it’s not an insight into how restaurants are. I think it was The Bear that started this whole thing. People would start using kitchen terms and be like, “how does the pass work?” and I was like what? How did you know about the pass? Where did you -

AM: Carmy said it!

CHEF FA: Exactly, Carmy said it. Oh my gosh! But I am glad that if they’re going to take any information from a show, it’s The Bear because it’s 1000% accurate. Now obviously, there are some Hollywood liberties that they take so that it makes it more dramatic or whatever. But it is a very accurate representation of how restaurants are. So, it came from people being so interested and asking questions. Then on my end too, it’s like it was such a huge shift when the industry was shut down during the pandemic and then opening back up. I was like, people are going to be nice. Right? Because we’re all struggling collectively as humanity.

No, we would get people that were so mean to our servers and just being super mean, just like – beyond. So I thought, well maybe if you give people insight into how tough that it actually is to get the food to your table, you’d be more grateful for this experience.

AM: Tell me about Take Care of Home, why you created it, and what does it do?

CHEF FA: So it’s a non-profit that I started with my friends from Ethiopia. Education has always been at the forefront of my philanthropy work because my mom was set in an arranged marriage when she was 16. So she had to drop out of school in the 8th grade and she was married and started having kids at 16 and her only regret in life was that she didn’t finish school. She stressed that with us. She put all 6 of us thorough private school. It was really important to her. So it became important to me. In Ethiopia, there is a huge gap where in the capitol city, there are a number of schools. But in rural parts of the country, there aren’t actually that many schools because the government only has the funds to subsidize teacher’s salaries, but there are no physical structures because no one has the money to build these infrastructures. So on paper, the schools exist, but no one is going. You’re learning under a shed and under crazy circumstances.

So we were like if this is what is going on and all they need is funding to build the schools, why don’t we do that? So we created Take Care of Home just by the first year was just asking our friends. We were like, we could build a school with $20,000 US or $60,000 US depending on the size of the school. The first year we raised money just by asking our friends. Then it becamea formal thing. We became a non-profit, and we spent an entire year raising money and we just built our 9th school.

AM: Wow!

CHEF FA: We’ve been open for 7 years. We have also expanded our initiatives as well. The first school that we completed, we always go back and visit. We noticed that it was mostly boys that were attending school, but not girls. So when we started digging into that, we learned that in that part of the country, girls don’t really get to go to school because they have house things that they have to do. Especially, when it comes to getting water. None of these homes have direct access to water so the girls have to go to the river and it’s not always close or nearby. So they can’t go to school. So I said, what if we fix that problem?

So we started a second initiative where we build water pipelines to the homes. We started doing that and that freed the girls to start going to school. So we are learning as we go. We’re adding more initiatives in addition to building schools.

AM: 9 is huge!

CHEF FA: 9 schools and I’m very proud of it!

AM: Are there any upcoming projects that we should know about that are on your radar that you are comfortable in sharing with us?

CHEF FA: Not really – obviously you know that there are always talks like TV shows.

AM: How do you take time for yourself when you’re not doing all of the things at the restaurant or are on set for TV? How do you reset especially with the amount of hours you have for work?

CHEF FA: So my reset is if I do take 2 days off like a human being, and I am doing this next week, after I get off of work here, I go straight to the airport, hop on a redeye, to go be with my family for 36 hours and then come right back. So I usually catch the red eye coming back and I come here straight to work. I’m usually suitcase out and suitcase in. So my family is my reset.

AM: What do you want your legacy to be?

CHEF FA: See that’s an Oprah style question?

AM: Yes, she was my very first interview when I was 12.

CHEF FA: No way. But it makes sense. I’m not surprised!

Ok, what I want my legacy to be is the Chef that changed the culture.

AM: Yeah!

CHEF FA: Anybody could make good food honestly. I could give anybody the recipe and they could carry it out. But to make people feel seen and that they deserve to be here the same way that Marcus made me feel that I deserved to be here regardless of your race, gender, ethnicity, sexual orientation – none of that stuff matters when you’re making food. None of that stuff matters at all! But we have not created that yet and I think that that is what I have done with these guys. But I want it to go beyond these 4 walls. This should be how restaurants are run.

AM: 100%

CHEF FA: I’ve had these conversations with Chefs and they’re like, nope – it would never work. Like, if you want to make this kind of food, this is how you have to run the kitchens. Ok, but then why am I able to make it work here? It’s happening here now.

IG @cheffariyalabdul

@havandmar

INTEGRITY, EXCELLENCE, SUSTAINABILITY COVER EDITORIAL | TEAM CREDITS

PHOTOGRAPHER Paul Farkas | FASHION STYLIST Kimmie Smith | MUA Dru Coppin/Felicia Graham Beauty Team | HAIR STYLIST Lea DeLoy |

IG @pvfarkas

@shes.kimmie

@drewbydru

@feliciagrahambeautyteam

@hairbyleadeloy

INTEGRITY, EXCELLENCE, SUSTAINABILITY COVER EDITORIAL | CREDITS

NIGHT OUT LOOK FRONT COVER + PG 16, 34 - 43, + 62 | NORMA KAMALI Super OS BF NK Shirt/Body/True Navy + Shirred Mini Skirt/True Navy | LAGOS Long Superfine Diamond Drop Earrings | MIGNON FAGET Banana Leaf Cuff | GOLD STORIES Rani Cuff Ring with Sapphire + Rani Cuff Ring |

WFH LOOK BACK COVER + PG 18, 21 | SCOTCH & SODA Printed Maxi Cotton Voile Dress | PONO BY JOAN GOODMAN Evelyn Necklace Starlight | LAGOS Blue Ceramic Stainless Smart Caviar Watch, 18K Gold and Blue Ceramic Hoop Earrings, Small Ceramic Dynamic Stacking Ring, Ceramic Beaded Bracelet 9mm + Caviar Skull Bracelet 9mm |

OUT & ABOUT LOOK I PG 22, 25 | TOMMY HILFIGER The Letterman Cardigan | AIR AND ANCHOR Stainless Steel One of A Kind Kinda Necklace Neutral /14K Gold + Center of the Universe Necklace Set | GOLD STORIES Rani Cuff with Sapphire + Intertwined Bangle | PARKER THATCH Cross Your Heart Sling - Leather Butterscotch + Adjustable Crossbody Strap - Modernist |

OUT + ABOUT LOOK II PG 26, 29 | SCOTCH AND SODA Short Trucker Jacket in Multi Color Stripe + Relaxed Fit Cotton Linen Chino Joggers | LNA CLOTHING Essential Cotton Kaden V Neck | AIR AND ANCHOR Stainless Steel One of A Kind Kinda Necklace Neutral /14K Gold + Center of the Universe Necklace Set | GOLD STORIES Rani Cuff with Sapphire + Intertwined Bangle | CONVERSE Chuck 70 Canvas |

FITNESS LOOK PG 30 - 32 | NORMA KAMALI Hologram Foil Mini MotoJacket + Hologram Foil Cropped Leggings | MACHINES FOR FREEDOM Foundations Bra | HAMMITT Tony SML | GOOGLE Pixel Watch 3 45mm | PONO BY JOAN GOODMAN Colette Luce Bracelet | CARRERA Super Champion Italian Style Pilot Sunglasses | LAGOS Delicate 18K Gold Beaded Bracelet 3mm, 18K Gold Superfine Caviar Link Necklace + 18K Gold Karat Pendant | ATHLETIC PROPULSION LABS TechLoom Bliss |

Read the AUG ISSUE #104 of Athleisure Mag and see INTEGRITY EXCELLENCE SUSTAINABILITY | Chef Fariyal Abdullahi in mag.

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In AM, Aug 2024, Food, TV Show Tags Executive Chef, Chef, Food, Chef Fariyal Abdullahi, Hav & Mar, Starrett-Lehigh Building, Marcus Samuelsson, Red Rooster, Streetbird, MARCUS ADDIS, Marcus Samuelsson Group, Chopped, Alex vs. America, James Beard Award 2024 Finalist, Ethiopia, Garde Manger, Culinary Institute of America, Nappa, UCLA, Tabasco, Beyoncé, Malcom Gladwell, The New Yorker, Revisionist History, Pushkin Industries, Outliers, Noma, Rene Redzepi, MICHELIN, LA, Caviar Russe, MAD Symposium, Hillstone, NY Times, Pete Wells, Derrick Adams, Black Mermaids, Zebulon Perron, Red Bull Music Academy, Broccolini Condo Store, Pancho, Salvador Dali, Afterlife, Governors Island, Billion Oyster Project, Le Jardinier, Outstanding in the Field, Save the Children, Food Advocacy, Tom Colicchio, Todd English, James Beard, Met Gala, Lady Gaga, Roku, Celebrity Family Food Battle, Food & Wine Best Chef, Food Network Wine Food Festival, Hav & Mar X The Musket Room Brunch, The Musket Room, Mary Attea, Camari Mick, Ble Moon Burger Bash: Champions vs Challengers, Pat LaFrieda, Rachael Ray, Top Chef, The Bear, Food Network, Take Care of Home, Oprah, Norma Kamali, Lagos, Gold Stories, Mignon Faget, Scotch & Soda, Pono By Joan Goodman, Air and Anchor, Parker Thatch, LNA Clothing, Converse, Tommy Hilfiger, Machines for Freedom, Google, Pixel Watch, Hammitt, Carerra, Athletic Propulsion Labs
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PHOTO CREDIT | Pixabay/RafinDeveloper

THE ART OF THE SNACK | JÔNT + ÔMO BY JÔNT

September 29, 2024

This month, The Art of the Snack takes us to 2 MICHELIN-starred Jônt (DC) and Ômo by Jônt (Winter Park, FL) for decadent meals that we can't wait to enjoy when visiting either of these cities. We sat down with Chef Ryan Ratino who is the founder of Hive Hospitality and is the recipient of Michelin Guide's 2023 Young Chef Award.

We wanted to know more about his culinary background, the thought behind both of these restaurants, and what we can expect when we come in to enjoy these luxury dining experiences!

ATHLEISURE MAG: What was the first dish that made you realize you love food?

CHEF RYAN RATINO: I think as a kid eating pierogies or stuffed cabbage is one of my favorite memories and led me to my passion for eating and food!

AM: When did you realize that you wanted to be a chef?

CHEF RR: I actually never thought that you could be a chef growing up where I did. My mother was the one to push me as a teenager when she noticed my passion for cooking.

AM: Can you tell us about where you trained and kitchens that you trained in?

CHEF RR: I’ve worked in various kitchens including places like Caviar Russe, WD 50, Todd English's Bluezoo, Ripple (DC) - and I staged in my younger years during my career at places like minibar, Dovetail and various other MICHELIN-starred restaurants that are recognized nationally.

AM: When did you realize that you wanted to open your own restaurants?

CHEF RR: When the last place I worked at as the Executive Chef decided to close, I realized that I had the chance to do something on my own and create a place (or places) that are a culmination of the restaurant experiences that I have had the opportunity to partake in.

AM: Tell me about Hive Hospitality.

CHEF RR: Hive Hospitality is a brand that focuses on service at its finest level; creating memorable dining through generosity. Our team personalizes each diner's experience - we want to be a leader in contemporary experiential hospitality that promotes fun and resonance - without losing refinement.

AM: Starting with Jônt, tell me about the ambiance of this restaurant and why you wanted to open this in DC?

CHEF RR: DC is my home base; and where we were able to plant our roots. It was natural with the support that Bresca had received to want to build Jônt in the same city.

Jônt is a multi-room dining experience where we focus on Japanese seafood with techniques founded in the french kitchen and open fire cooking. The room is relaxed and plays vibrant music while guests are about twelve feet from the pass, where dishes are plated, at all times.

The opportunity offers each guest a front seat to watch our team prepare a meal for 2 hours, before moving into the pastry parlor and parting in a similar but even more relaxed environment.

AM: We love a tasting menu. Why did you decide that Jônt would have a tasting menu and how many courses does it include?

CHEF RR: With Bresca being down stairs and a la carte we wanted to create a restaurant that gave us the opportunity to really "geek out "on food and create a long menu of creative bites. The current offering is about 27 preparations from the kitchen this includes snacks, all the way to mignardises!

AM: What is the cuisine that is available at Jônt?

CHEF RR: Jônt offers a cuisine inspired by the seafood of japan and our foundational techniques of french cooking & wood fire. We offer a lot of seafood and 1-2 meat courses depending on the menu.

AM: Can you tell us about what kinds of things that are part of the tasting menu during the Summer?

CHEF RR: Stuffed Quail with Apricot and Rice, Crudo of Onagadai with fermented rice and cucumber, Ebodai and caviar tart, Tomato with shiro dashi and yuba, Japanese Matsutake in venison brodo (this just started, Beltfish in a whey emulsion with koji onions and caviar, White Peach with Wakamomo and Thai basil).

AM: Can you also pair alcohol with your meal that correlates to the dishes that are being served?

CHEF RR: Jont offers 3 beverage pairings. 2 of which are wine and one is non-alcoholic.

AM: What can guests look forward to in terms of the fall?

CHEF RR: As the fall starts to come into season we will continue on the path of Matsutake mushrooms, chestnuts, and some game meats will join the menu as well as fattier ocean creatures like Buri, Tuna, Shellfish.

AM: Jônt has 2 MICHELIN-stars - what does that mean to you?

CHEF RR: To me, it means we still have a ways to go in order to stand next to the best at the 3 star level. I cherish the 2 stars, but am motivated by them as well in order to make sure we know we can keep improving daily, as we still have not achieved the pinnacle of fine dining.

AM: What led you to want to open Ômo by Jônt and to have it in Winter Park in Orlando?

This concept is also a tasting menu but seems to have an interesting flow, and seems to have an interesting flow, and allows guests to move through 3 unique dining experiences - the Living Room, the Savory Counter, and Pastry Parlor - can you tell me more about these experiences and the kinds of dishes that are associated with it?

CHEF RR: Ômo has a similar ethos to Jônt. The space is created to take you through an experience where you start with snacks and champagne in the living room, move onto savory plated courses in the main counter, then finish with desserts in the pastry parlor - while listening to great music and engaging with the team throughout!

Dishes on the current menu…..

• Soba and roasted tomato with prawn

• Sweet corn chawanmushi with Hokkaido sea urchin

• Hokkaido Scallop with Artichoke Dashi & Tempura squash blossom stuffed with scallop mousse

• Dungeness Crab Rice cooked En Donabe

• Yellow Peach and Almond Tart with Peach “bomb” & Cookie

• Hazelnut and Kinako Kakigori

AM: You also received the Michelin Guide's 2024 Young Chef Award, what did that mean to you?

Are there any upcoming events that either Jônt or Ômo by Jônt will be involved in that we should keep an eye out for?

CHEF RR: There are so many events- and we are excited to work with some of our exclusive partners! Ômo By Jônt will host several dinners- one with IWA Sake on September 15th with Richard Geoffroy (formerly of Dom Perignon), and an October 10th event with the prestigious Hundred Acre Wine Vineyard.

At Jônt, since we are a Krug Ambassade - we are hosting The Maison on November 11th, which is an annual celebration; as well as a couple of chef collaboration events (check out our website and Instagram to see more)

The Young Chef award, for me, was a testament to each team - and the professional people that we have surrounded ourselves with - both teams at Ômo by Jônt and Jônt are world class, and deserve all the recognition that can be shined on them. Dedication and hard work is something in today's world that can be continued to thrive off of.

IG @r_ratino

@jont_dc

@omobyjont

PHOTOGRAPHY CREDIT | Jônt and Ômo by Jônt

Read the AUG ISSUE #104 of Athleisure Mag and see THE ART OF THE SNACK | Jônt and Ômo by Jônt.

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In AM, Aug 2024, Food, The Art of the Snack, Editor Picks Tags Jônt, Ômo by Jônt, Chef Ryan Ratino, MICHELIN, Hive Hospitality, MICHELIN Guide, 2023 Young Chef Award, Caviar Russe, Todd English, Bluezoo, Ripple, minibar, Dovetail, Executive Chef, Bresca, Japanese, IWA Sake, Richard Geoffroy, Dom Perignon, Hundred Acre Wine Vineyard, Krug Ambassade, The Maison
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IN THE KNOW | MICHELIN GUIDE

May 25, 2024

When we're thinking of where to eat and to stay, we're always looking for superb recommendations! The MICHELIN Guide is one of the most revered resources when it comes to finding a number of restaurants and hotels that you can enjoy in your desired city whether you're a local or traveling! We were honored to chat with them to know more about how this Guide from 1900 began in France; evolved; the criteria for restaurants and hotels that are included; who their Inspectors are; and the difference between being recognized versus receiving Stars and Keys!

We're so pleased that we got to find out this and more from the incredible team at MICHELIN who values the importance of focusing on your customer and seamlessly sends their teams in to evaluate the hard work that is done by restaurants and hotels that could be given honors.

ATHLEISURE MAG: The MICHELIN Guide was created in the 1900's. What is the correlation between MICHELIN Tires and the creation/purpose of this Guide?

MICHELIN: The story of the MICHELIN Guide began in 1900. At that time, before it became the international benchmark for restaurant and hotel guides, it was a 400-page guidebook containing practical information for travelers. It was given to motorists free of charge; its aim being to facilitate their travels and develop mobility. It started in Clermont-Ferrand in central France in 1889, when brothers Andre and Edourard Michelin founded their eponymous tire company, fuelled by a grand vision for the French automobile industry at a time when there were fewer than 3,000 cars in the country.

In order to help motorists develop their trips – thereby boosting car sales and in turn, tire sales – the Michelin brothers produced a small guide filled with information for travelers such as maps, information on how to change a tire, where to fill up on petrol, and for those looking for a respite from the adventures of the day, a listing of places to eat and to stay for the night!

For 2 decades, this information was available at no cost! That was until Andre Michelin arrived at a tire shop to see his beloved guides being used to prop up a workbench. Based on the principle that “man only truly respects what he pays for,” a brand new MICHELIN Guide was launched in 1920 and sold for 7 francs.

For the first time, it included a list of hotels in Paris, lists of restaurants according to specific categories, as well as the abandonment of paid-for advertisements in the guide. The brothers also recruited a team of mystery diners, now called restaurant inspectors as we know them today, to visit and review restaurants anonymously.

In 1926, the guide awarded stars for fine dining establishments and they were initially marked with a single star. In 1931, the hierarchy of zero, one, two, and three stars were introduced and in 1936, the criteria for the starred rankings were published.

The MICHELIN Guides now rate over 30,000 establishments in over 30 territories across three continents and more than 30 million MICHELIN Guides have been sold worldwide since. Due to the foresight of the founding Michelin brothers, the company maintains its mission and relevancy that it has had since 1900 to make driving, tourism, and the search for unforgettable experiences available to all.

AM: Can you tell us about the MICHELIN Guide Inspectors and what are the qualities or background that you look for in terms of finding those individuals who contribute to the Guide?

M: These former hospitality professionals all have at least 10 years of experience, which ensures that they have a precise and technical knowledge of the field. They also receive two years of training in the MICHELIN Guide’s methodology, which is based on objective and universally deployable criteria.

The team, which includes local and international inspectors, are fully capable of evolving in international gastronomic scenes and finding the best talents. MICHELIN Guide Inspectors enjoy complete independence in choosing the restaurants they visit. Only their knowledge of the local gastronomic scene – through research, monitoring and documentation – enable them to find their way around.

No one can tell the difference between a regular customer and a Guide Inspector. Their identity, when they are visiting, and where they are all kept secret. They pay their own bills, just as any other restaurant-goer.

Consistency is very important when awarding MICHELIN Stars, so we need to be sure that the customers will receive the same high standard of cooking whenever they visit. Various Inspectors will visit throughout the seasons: for lunch as well as for dinner, both at the weekend and during the week. We try to eat as many dishes as possible over the course of the year, as we do need to try as much of the chef’s food as we can. We have to be sure that all the dishes that come out of the kitchen are of a consistently high standard. Sometimes we eat alone, sometimes in pairs, and occasionally even as a group. Once several inspectors have eaten at a restaurant, they can discuss their experiences as a team in order to make a final decision.

AM: Do the Inspectors work throughout the year to visit restaurants and hotels around the world?

M: Yes, the MICHELIN Guide selection is provided annually, based on the anonymous and independent dining & travel experiences of the inspection team, and they are re-evaluated each year.

AM: In looking at the US, The MICHELIN North American Guide first launched in 2005 starting with New York, Chicago debuted in 2011, Washington DC followed in 2017, California started with San Francisco in 2008 and it was statewide in 2019, in 2022 Miami/Orlando/Tampa, FL launched, Toronto joined in 2022 along with Vancouver, and both Colorado and Atlanta launched last year! How do cities in the US that have yet to be included go about getting MICHELIN's attention for their restaurants and hotels to be considered for inclusion?

M: The MICHELIN Guide inspection team is always evaluating new destinations for the Guide, around the world. MICHELIN decides whether to have its anonymous inspectors conduct a destination assessment. Once all the conditions are present to highlight the quality of the culinary scene in a given city, region or country, the MICHELIN Guide begins its process. Only the inspectors, based on their expert research, choose destinations.

AM: We have had the pleasure of interviewing a number of chefs that have received MICHELIN stars. Can you tell us about what each star means and what the criteria is?

M: A MICHELIN Star is awarded to restaurants offering outstanding cooking.Any restaurant of any style and cuisine type can qualify for a Star. We take into account 5 universal criteria: the quality of ingredients, the harmony of flavors, the mastery of techniques, the personality of the chef as expressed through the cuisine and, just as importantly, consistency both across the entire menu and over time.

One MICHELIN Star is awarded to restaurants using top quality ingredients, where dishes with distinct flavors are prepared to a consistently high standard.

Two MICHELIN Stars are awarded when the personality and talent of the chef are evident in their expertly crafted dishes; their food is refined and inspired.

Three MICHELIN Stars is our highest award, given for the superlative cooking of chefs at the peak of their profession; their cooking is elevated to an art form and some of their dishes are destined to become classics.

If the restaurant is currently in the MICHELIN Guide then they don’t need to apply for a Star, as all restaurants in the guide are re-assessed regularly. If we feel that the cooking at a restaurant is no longer at the same level that it was, then we would not re-award the Star the following year. Any restaurant can ask us to consider them for inclusion in the MICHELIN Guide and we love receiving recommendations from our readers too.

AM: We know that the first star came in 1926 and between 1931 and 1933 there is the 3-star system. Do you think that there will be a point where an additional star may be added to the system?

M: At this time, we don’t have news to share about the star system being extended.

AM: We talked about the MICHELIN Star. What is the difference between a Green Star and a Bib Gourmands?

M: The Green Star is our newest award. It was introduced to the MICHELIN Guide France in 2020 and is now featured in every country covered by the MICHELIN Guide. It is awarded to restaurants that are role models when it comes to sustainable gastronomy.

The Bib Gourmand is our award for great value, and highlights simple yet skillful cooking at an affordable price. (But we should also say that we are looking for a high standard of cooking just for a restaurant to be recommended in the MICHELIN Guide).

AM: Why do MICHELIN Guides have different times that they are awarded in terms of destination?

M: The MICHELIN Guide distinctions are awarded annually for each destination. The selections are revealed at different times throughout the year based on event planning, which is done in partnership with MICHELIN and the destination marketing organization.

AM: What advice would you give to a young chef?

M: There are three things:

• Great cooking starts with great ingredients, so use the best produce you can find – whether that’s a tomato or a chicken.

• Take pleasure in cooking for your customers, rather than cooking to try and win awards.

• Eat out as much as you can, but also eat your own dishes – sometimes it’s not until you’re halfway through a dish that you realize it’s not quite right.

AM: The MICHELIN Key is a new distinction that is available to hotels! Can you tell us more about this and on Apr 8th the first Keys were announced for hotels in Paris, when will they be announced for other guides like those in the US?

M: The latest addition to the MICHELIN Guide accolades is the MICHELIN Keys which highlights establishments in the Guide’s hotel selection offering the most exceptional stays. The first selection of MICHELIN Keys were awarded in France with a selection team that is based on anonymous stays or visits, independent of existing labels, tourism stars, and pre-established quotas. The MICHELIN Keys are becoming a new international benchmark for travelers helping them to find accommodations that stand out for their unique hospitality concept, distinctive character, warm welcome and very high level of service. These hotels can be booked on its digital platforms.

In this very first list, 189 hotels and ac commodations, among some 600 establishments already recommended by the MICHELIN Guide France, are honored with 24 Three MICHELIN Keys, 38 Two MICHELIN Keys and 127 One MICHELIN Keys.

Just like the famous Stars, that, in the MICHELIN Guide restaurant selection, indicate establishments offering the best culinary experiences, the Keys reveal accommodations in the Guide’s hotel selection that offer the most outstanding stays. They are a new benchmark for travelers, qualifying the experiences in broad terms, rather than focusing solely on amenities.

One MICHELIN Key: A Very Special Stay – This is a true gem with its own character and personality. It may break the mold, offer something different or simply be one of the best of its type. Service always goes the extra mile and it provides so much more than similarly priced establishments.

Two MICHELIN Keys: An Excellent Stay – Somewhere truly unique and exceptional in every way, where a memorable experience is always guaranteed. A hotel of character, personality and charm that’s run with obvious pride and considerable care. Eye-catching design or architecture, and a real sense of the locale make this an exceptional place to stay.

Three MICHELIN Keys: An Extraordinary Stay – It’s all about astonishment and indulgence here – this is the ultimate in comfort and service, style and elegance. It is one of the world’s most remarkable and extraordinary hotels and a destination in itself for that trip of a lifetime. All the elements of truly great hospitality are here to ensure any stay will stay long in the memory and hearts.

France is the first country to unveil its honorees of 189 establishments. After France, the MICHELIN Keys were announced on Apr 24th for the United States (Atlanta, California, Chicago, Colorado, Florida, New York, and Washington DC.) Spain followed on Apr 29th, following with Italy on May 7th, and Japan on Jul 4th.

AM: You can also book hotels through the MICHELIN Guide, why should we do this here when we are organizing our next trip?

M: All of the MICHELIN Guide hotel recommendations can be found free of charge on the MICHELIN Guide website and app. On these digital platforms, all of the recommended hotels can be booked at the best available rate. To assist travelers throughout their stay, the MICHELIN Guide also provides a concierge service offered by a team of travel experts, employed by the MICHELIN Guide.

AM: Last fall, there was a MICHELIN Guide Ceremony that took place in Tribeca for New York, Chicago, and Washington DC to celebrate restaurants and professionals on one night! Chefs were invited to see if they received a Star. Will there be a ceremony this year that is like this?

M: The MICHELIN Guide selections are awarded annually for each destination. We don’t have news to share on the the format of the ceremonies for New York, DC or Chicago at this time for 2024.

AM: The MICHELIN Guide App is really informative in terms of seeing those restaurants that have varying distinctions or simply being recognized/listed, having access to articles, being able to book hotels/connect to restaurants etc. As we continue to navigate 2024, will there be additional offerings on the app for users to be able to enjoy or utilize?

M: You can stay tuned to our website guide.michelin.com for information about any new features regarding the apps. Updates will also periodically be available via the app store as they are released.

IG @michelinguide

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY | PG 114 One White Street/Gary He | PG 116 MICHELIN

Read the APR ISUE #100 of Athleisure Mag and see IN THE KNOW | MICHELIN GUIDE in mag.

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In AM, Apr 2024, Food, Travel Tags In the Know, MICHELIN, MICHELIN Guide, MICHELIN Brothers, France, Tires, Travel, MICHELIN Guide Inspectors, Food, MICHELIN Keys, New York, Chicago, Paris, Washington DC, California, San Francisco, Toronto, Miami, Orlando, Tampa, Colorado, Atlante, FL, One MICHELIN Star, Two MICHELIN Stars, Three MICHELIN Stars, Spain
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SPRING STAYCATION | NOMO SOHO + CHOLA

April 9, 2024

We've navigated the fall and winter and depending where you're located, you're experiencing varying degrees of Spring! We love that during this time of year, you just want to do more things outside for longer periods! We also love that you feel the need to get a change of pace and sometimes it's not about traveling to a far off locale, but to experience your city and its neighborhoods in a different way!

For this month's location, we decided that a staycation in SoHo was the perfect way to enjoy of of our favorite neighborhoods. The ability to have an array of shopping destinations, restaurants, galleries, and more in the area is a great way to have a bit of a reset whether you do it solo, with friends, family, or your significant other!

To kick off our staycation, we stayed at the NoMo SoHo located on 9 Crosby St. We love that this area is Instagram ready, makes you feel like you're in the midst of fashionable brands from Maison Margiela, Alexis Bittar, R13 Denim, and Flying Solo to name a few, and has epic views with their floor to cieling windows where we could take in Hudson Yards and World Trade Center.

We have had the pleasure of attending a number of editor events, grabbing a bite at NoMo Kitchen, and more. We sat down and talked with NoMo SoHo's General Manager, Jeff Harvey, to find out about this hotel, amenities that it offers, the guest experience!

ATHLEISURE MAG: We've had the pleasure of attending events at this property from a number of years when it was the Mondrian and when it became the NoMo SoHo. Before we delve into the hotel, what can you tell us about what draws people to SoHo?

JEFF HARVEY: SoHo is an iconic Manhattan neighborhood - it’s infused with creativity, evocative expression, and artistic dedication - and we are lucky to call it home. Guests who stay at NoMo SoHo are truly in the epicenter of fashion, art, culture and nightlife, experiencing the best of the city.

AM: When did NoMo SoHo open?

JH: The hotel rebranded as NoMo SoHo in 2015.

AM: One of our favorite things about the hotel is the entrance. It's fun to see the graffiti, the arced trees and the lights. What is the overall aesthetic of this hotel that you want guests to feel when they enter?

JH: We’re very focused on art, and are proud to showcase both local artists and world-renowned talent. The archway at the entrance called the Tunnel of Love, along with the surrounding pieces, prepare guests for what they’ll see once inside: a graffiti-style heart mural in NoMo Kitchen from J. Goldcrown and rotating exhibitions throughout the hotel. Most recently, we showed art from local artist Robert Malmberg’s collection “The Sum of our Parts,” and we have exciting art and cultural activations planned for the remainder of the year.

AM: We love that this hotel has a number spaces that are IG worthy, including NoMo Kitchen. Can you tell us about the ambiance and when it is open?

JH: NoMo Kitchen is situated on the ground floor in a bright, vibrant greenhouse setting, offering a true SoHo dining experience. The restaurant is open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and serves brunch Friday through Sunday. The restaurant extends onto the patio with the Rose Garden, an outdoor dining option open any time the weather permits. This floral oasis in the middle of the city is a picture-perfect spot to enjoy a meal with friends.

AM: In terms of the perfect Spring cocktail, what are 3 that you suggest for lunch?

JH: We suggest the “Spring Fizz,” made with a gin base, bergamot liqueur, raspberry notes, lemon & a splash of grapefruit. This cocktail is refreshing and light, making it perfect for sipping on a warm spring day. We also recommend the “Rose Spritz,” made with sparkling rose and St. Germain, perfect for outdoor gatherings and pairs wonderfully with springtime fare. For guests looking to enjoy a cocktail sans-alcohol, we recommend the “Immuniti” mocktail with hibiscus, fresh thyme and lime.

AM: When we're popping by for lunch, what are 3 appetizers that we can share?

JH: When enjoying lunch at NoMo Kitchen, we’d recommend sharing the roasted tomato burrata, the crab coquettes, and endive bites. These simple but classic options are the perfect tasty portions to start a lunch rendezvous.

AM: What are 3 dishes that you suggest for lunch that should be on our radar?

JH: For lunch, our flatbreads are always a hit. The heirloom tomato and garlic or the vodka sauce and burrata are not to be missed.

AM: As we move into dinner, what are 3 appetizers that you suggest that are on this portion of the menu?

JH: For dinner, we recommend the beef tartare, garlic shrimp, and the king oyster mushrooms to start.

AM: What are 3 entrees that we should consider for dinner when sharing with friends and family?

JH: When sharing at dinner, we recommend sharing the seafood paella or the whole baked rainbow trout. Both entrees have generous portions and are ideal when sharing.

AM: What are 3 cocktails that we should have for dinner?

JH: For dinner, we recommend guests order a classic martini, a timeless cocktail that's simple yet sophisticated, making it an excellent choice to accompany dinner. From our menu of signature cocktails at NoMo, “The Fix” is made with bourbon, campari, white peach & chipotle, perfect for sipping on its own or pairing with a variety of dishes. For guests looking for a lighter drink, we recommend the “Sun Kissed” featuring citrus and ginger flavors. These dinner cocktails offer a range of flavors and styles to complement various meals and occasions, from light and refreshing to bold and aromatic.

AM: What are 3 entrees that we can have for brunch when sharing with friends and family?

JH: Some of our most popular brunch offerings include the NoMo lemon ricotta pancakes, the avocado toast, and the NoMo burger. These options provide the perfect variety of savory and sweet to satisfy any craving.

AM: What are 3 brunch approved cocktails that we should enjoy?

JH: NoMo Kitchen recently launched its spring menu, featuring a great variety of seasonal, internationally-inspired dishes. It includes some year-round favorites, like our lemon ricotta pancakes and NoMo burger, alongside new items like a baked whole rainbow trout, ricotta flatbread with sundried tomatoes and artichokes, and a strawberry rhubarb tart. Combined with our mixologists’ expertly crafted cocktails, the new menus ensure guests can find the perfect option for their ideal meal in SoHo.

AM: We love a good Happy Hour - what do you offer during this time of day?

JH: Our happy hour is from 4-5pm every weeknight, and we offer discounted drinks and bites for those looking for an afternoon snack or a quick stop after work. During happy hour, beers start at $8, wines and spirits start at $10, and select appetizers such as grilled fish tacos, sriracha honey chicken wings and angus beef sliders start at $10.

AM: We love Taco Tuesday and in the month of March, you have some amazing themes. What are some themes that you have for this for the rest of the Spring and as we head into the Summer?

JH: Our chefs have been flexing their creativity with our Taco Tuesday menus. Past dishes have included octopus tacos with purple potatoes for National Octopus Day and Kahlua-marinated carnitas for National Kahlua Day. Upcoming menus will celebrate National peanut butter & jelly day with a first-time dessert taco and National German beer day for example where the taco protein will be battered. Taco Tuesday at NoMo Kitchen is served as a combo paired with a Margarita that follows the theme.

AM: We really enjoyed seeing the views from our room as those floor to ceiling windows were great! For guests who are staying at NoMo SoHo, tell us about the rooms as well as suites that you offer and what are the amenities that you have available?

JH: We’re proud to be in the tallest building in SoHo, and our floor-to-ceiling windows show off the incredible views that come with that distinction. Depending on which way the room is facing, travelers can get truly panoramic views of the beautiful city skyline, seeing the bridges into Brooklyn and overlooking the Empire State Building. The hotel’s spacious rooms feature full-size work desks, C.O. Bigelow bath amenities, luxurious bathrooms and more.

AM: You offer a #YourPlace package that allows people to use a room during the day. This is such a great concept - can you tell us about what day guests can enjoy when purchasing this package and if there are discounts for those who want to book a series of days?

JH: YourPlace allows guests to rent rooms for four or eight hours, providing premium day-use rooms that are popular with remote workers looking for a quiet, distraction-free place to boost productivity. These rooms come with complimentary snacks, access to our fitness center, and contactless room service.

AM: Tell us about your fitness center and what you offer here.

JH: Our 24-hour fitness center is equipped with cardio machines, free weights and weight machines. NoMo SoHo also frequently hosts public workout classes in our Penthouse or outdoor terrace (seasonally), open to guests looking to break a sweat and take in some of the best views of the city.

AM: There are many reasons why people are at your hotel and there is something about being in historic SoHo! For those that live in the neighborhood and are not staying at the hotel, but swing by NoMo SoHo for a Taco Tuesday, what are 2 additional things that you suggest that they should do in the neighborhood?

JH: SoHo has incredible shopping and a wide variety of art galleries. We always recommend that guests take in all of the art they can find nearby, and frequently see guests toting shopping bags into the hotel.

AM: For those that are enjoying a vacation or staycation, what are 3 things that you suggest that they should do in SoHo or in a nearby neighborhood?

JH: In addition to art and fashion, New York City is filled with opportunities to see live performances. Whether it’s a comedy show or a concert, it’s highly recommended.

AM: For our business traveler, who has the pleasure of staying at the hotel. What are meeting options you have for their gathering needs on property and what are 3 things that you suggest that they can enjoy in terms of bonding with their fellow colleagues that are off property and are in SoHo?

JH: Our event venues offer incredible variety. For a traditional meeting, groups can book our ground floor gallery or terrace, or groups can opt to book the Penthouse & terrace for a meeting with a view. The Penthouse has 360-degree views of the city, ample outdoor space, and can be configured to fit groups large and small. Business dinners in NoMo Kitchen are always a hit, and there’s no shortage of entertainment just outside of our doors for business travelers looking to take in more of the city.

AM: With the Spring and the Summer around the corner, are there events coming up that NoMo SoHo will be part of that you would like for us to know about?

JH: We just launched a series of wellness classes with Sound of Om, a local partner leading yoga, sound baths, meditation and more in our Penthouse. It’s a great way for guests and locals to relax atop the city. The Rose Garden is also open this spring and summer for diners looking to take in the weather during the warmer months.

AM: Are there any packages that you would like to highlight that we should keep on our radar?

JH: Our Pride offer will be available for stays throughout the month of June and will give guests a Pride welcome amenity, credit to dine at NoMo Kitchen, and two complimentary Pride cocktails at the restaurant’s bar.

IG @thenomosoho

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY | NoMo SoHo

We love that a staycation allows you to really enjoy a neighborhood at a granular level whether it's trying a new coffee spot, walking into a lounge for a few drinks, or taking in the architecture in the area! But when you're in a city like NYC, you are only an Uber or subway ride away from changing up the vibe!

We decided to revisit Chola, which we have previously featured in The Art of the Snack for our NOV ISSUE #49 in 2019. They have been making incredible Indian cuisine for 26 years and we wanted to try new dishes on the menu as well as take in the vibe and heartwarming way that they create each dish that leaves their kitchen. After an epic meal on the UES, we wanted to go deeper into their history, find out about the founder Shiva Natarajan as well as its owner Min Bhujel, and what guests can expect from this restaurant which is enjoyed by so many including Martha Stewart who has dishes named for her!

ATHLEISURE MAG: We had the pleasure of dining at Chola a few years ago and enjoyed the dishes that we had. Can you tell us a bit about the history of Chola as we know it opened in 1998!

CHOLA: Chola first opened its doors in February 1998, initially offering a menu centered around North Indian cuisine; however, it wasn't until founder Shiva Natarajan introduced South Indian dishes to the menu that the restaurant truly garnered attention. This pivotal move earned them a notable two-star review from The New York Times, propelling Chola to its current status as an acclaimed dining destination.

AM: Shiva Natarajan founded the restaurant and is known as a pioneer in Indian Cuisine here in NY. Can you tell us about his background and what led him to creating Chola?

C: Shiva, the founder of Chola, initially embarked on a career in finance as a young professional. However, after a few years in the financial sector, Shiva realized that his true calling lay in the culinary world. Growing up, he spent considerable time in the kitchen, learning invaluable techniques and recipes from his grandmother. This early exposure ignited his curiosity and passion for food and cooking, ultimately prompting him to transition away from finance. Inspired by his love for Indian cuisine, Shiva ventured into the restaurant industry, launching establishments like Sahib and Malai Marke. Through these ventures, he played a pivotal role in pioneering the Indian dining scene in New York City.

AM: We enjoyed meeting Min Bhujel as we dined at Chola this month and he is now its owner. Can you tell us about his journey in the culinary industry, working alongside Shiva, what it means to run the restaurant, and what the goals are for the upcoming years?

C: Min Bhujel embarked on his culinary journey in his native India, accumulating 16 years of experience in the hospitality sector. Upon moving to the U.S., he had the privilege of being mentored by Shiva, eventually becoming his protégé and right-hand man for over a decade. During this time, Min played integral roles in the operation and management of several of Shiva’s acclaimed restaurants.

Now, as the owner of Chola, Min's journey has come full circle. Running the restaurant holds profound significance for him, symbolizing the culmination of years of hard work and dedication in the culinary industry.

Looking ahead, Min, alongside Shiva, aims to uphold Chola's recognition in the Michelin Guide. Their ultimate aspiration is to earn a coveted MICHELIN star for the restaurant, reflecting their unwavering commitment to culinary excellence and innovation.

AM: What is Shiva's involvement in Chola at this point?

C: Shiva remains heavily involved in Chola's operations, particularly in menu and recipe development. He maintains a consistent on-site presence, diligently overseeing the quality and consistency of their menu items and service. Acting as a guiding force, Shiva continues to play a pivotal role in ensuring the restaurant's ongoing success.

AM: Shiva was on Martha Stewart's, Martha Cooks on Roku and is currently writing a cookbook. Can you tell us about this recent appearance as well as his cookbook?

C: During his recent appearance on Martha Cooks, Shiva teamed up with his friend and longtime patron, Martha Stewart, to showcase the preparation of some beloved traditional Indian dishes. Sharing his expertise, he provided valuable insights on spice selection and demonstrated the art of cooking Martha's favorite Indian dishes, including Butter Chicken, Okra, Lemon Rice, and Raita Yogurt.

Additionally, Shiva is currently channeling his extensive knowledge and experience of Indian cuisine into writing a cookbook. This endeavor aims to consolidate his culinary wisdom and travels across India, where he has picked up countless regional recipes to be shared with the world.

AM: When we're talking about Indian food, what are the ingredients and spices that are indicative of this cuisine?

C: When discussing Indian cuisine, several key ingredients and spices come to mind that are indicative of its rich, vibrant flavors. Some of these include curry leaves, coriander, cumin, saffron, cloves, chili, fenugreek, tamarind, and ginger.

AM: From a culinary standpoint, what regions do the dishes offered come from?

C: The dishes offered at Chola originate from diverse regions across India. These include Northern Indian regions like Kashmir and Punjab, as well as Kolkata in the northeast, and southern regions along the coast such as Bangalore and Karnataka. Shiva's extensive travels throughout India have enabled him to bring back traditional and original recipes from these regions, enriching Chola's menu for his customers to enjoy.

AM: You make your Ghee fresh at Chola - why is this such an important ingredient?

C: Freshly made Ghee holds significant importance at Chola due to its profound impact on the flavor of the cuisine. Crafted daily through the tempering technique, it enhances the taste and aroma of the dishes. One of Chola's best-kept secrets lies in the special blend of herbs used to temper the Ghee, further enriching its flavor and aroma.

AM: Before we delve into the menu, can you tell us about what guests can expect to see when they come into the restaurant. And can you tell us about the iconic vintage clock?

C: With a passion for antiquing, Shiva procured a broken antique clock from a train station three years ago. After careful restoration and customization, this clock now proudly adorns Chola's entrance, symbolizing its enduring presence in the Upper East Side neighborhood for the past 26 years.

Stepping inside, guests are greeted in the front room that features a spacious bar embellished with golden hanging pendants, exuding a warm and inviting glow. In the dining room, marbled walls complement gray banquettes lining the perimeter, while black and white photographs showcase coastal scenes from Southern India, offering a glimpse into the cuisine's origins. Throughout the restaurant, a blend of modern and traditional accents pays homage to the vibrant tapestry of Indian culture.

AM: In our recent visit, we were reminded of why we love this restaurant as you can feel the love and mindfulness in the dishes. It's also amazing to watch the faces of others that are there as you can see that they are being transported as well. Can you talk about some of the traditional culinary practices that are upheld at Chola?

C: At the heart of Chola's cuisine lies a deep-rooted passion and reverence for traditional cooking methods. Drawing inspiration from familial traditions, the kitchen meticulously upholds these practices to preserve the authenticity of each dish.

For Shiva, maintaining these culinary traditions is akin to staging a Broadway performance each night. The kitchen is expected to operate at peak performance, ensuring the consistency and excellence in every dish. This dedication guarantees that each visit to Chola promises the same high-quality experience for their patrons.

AM: You have new items on the menu which I know we had the pleasure of having. For an appetizer, what are 3 dishes that you suggest that we should share with friends and family?

C: For appetizers, here are three dishes Shiva highly recommends sharing with friends and family:

• Baghari Jhinga, creamy mustard shrimp from Kashmir

• Phuckawala Alu Dum, spiced tamarind potatoes, fresh coriander, and ginger

• Lasoni Gobi, tangy cauliflower, ginger, and garlic

AM: For the entree, what are 3 dishes that you suggest that we should enjoy?

C: For Entrees, Shiva suggests the following:

• Lata Shetty’s Lobster Ghee Roast, a family recipe from Shiva’s mother-in-law with tamarind, coconut, and onions

• Meen Polichattu, pan seared fish in a banana leaf

• Tanjavur Avial, a coconut-vegetable dish from Kerala

AM: We are huge fans of Saag Paneer and we did enjoy that when we visited, but we also had a new favorite, Gosht Saag! The lamb was lovely and that balanced with the spinach was truly a great experience! Can guests who enjoy a specific meat like goat have it paired with a curry or sauce that would make it a unique dish that may not be officially on the menu?

C: While we strive to accommodate our guests' preferences, our preparation method involves marinating and grilling meats specific to the masala or curry they will accompany. This meticulous process ensures optimal flavor but limits the flexibility to interchange meats with our sauce variety. Therefore, we cannot always accommodate the interchanging of meats and sauces, but we are confident there is something for everyone on our expansive menu.

AM: What are 3 meat based dishes that we should think about having for our next meal?

C: For Meat dishes, Shiva suggests:

• Melagu Kozhi Chettinad, a spicy pepper chicken curry dish from the house of Chettiyars

• Golbari Kosha Mangsho, a slow cooked bone-in goat curry from Kolkata

• Saag Gosht, spiced lamb, pureed spinach, ginger

AM: We love the rice and naan dishes that are offered - what are 3 that we should order for the table?

C: Must try rice and Naan items are:

• Misti Rice, a delicacy from Kolkata that features sweet rice, cashews, raisins, and ghee

• Mughlai Goat Biryani, a highly aromatic specialty with Basmati rice, whole spices, yogurt, and herbs served in a clay pot

• For Naan, the Chili Onion Naan is recommended for spice lovers

AM: To complete our meal, what are 3 desserts that we should think about having to share?

CC: To round off your meal perfectly, patrons should try the following desserts:

• Kulfi, a condensed milk and saffron ice cream

• Misti Dohi, a fermented sweetened yogurt from Kolkata

• Coconut Barfi, coconut squares with cardamom

AM: The cocktails have been curated by Allen Katz, Owner of the New York Distilling Company. Can you talk about his background and what his vision was for your beverage program?

C: The cocktails at Chola have been crafted by Allen Katz, Owner of the New York Distilling Company. With a background as one of the nation’s foremost authorities on distilled spirits and cocktails, Allen serves as the Director of Spirits Education & Mixology for Southern Wine & Spirits of New York. Renowned for his expertise, he conducts public and professional seminars on topics such as America’s food and cocktail heritage and even hosted The Cocktail Hour for Martha Stewart on SiriusXM.

For Chola's beverage program, Allen created cocktails that harmonize perfectly with the cuisine. He aimed to provide refreshing options that complement the bold flavors of our spicier dishes, ensuring a well-rounded dining experience for Chola’s guests.

AM: What are 3 cocktails that you suggest that we should order when enjoying our meal?

C: From Allen’s list, must try cocktails include:

• Himalayan Sunset, Spring 44 vodka, King’s Ginger liqueur, mango puree and fresh lime juice

• East of Manhattan, Ragtime rye, La Copa sweet vermouth and saffron syrup

• Ginger Lime Fizz, vodka, orange liqueur, ginger, fresh lime and cranberry juice

AM: In terms of beer and wine, what are 3 you suggest?

C: When it comes to beer and wine selections, Shiva recommends the following:

• Indian beers like Taj Mahal and Kingfisher offer a refreshing complement to the cuisine

• Rose from Driopi, Greece pairs nicely with a variety of dishes

• And don't miss out on Chola’s house-made Lassis, available in Mango, Sweet, and Salt variations, which are great non-alcoholic beverage options

IG @cholanyc

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY | Chola

Read the MAR ISSUE #99 of Athleisure Mag and see SPRING STAYCATION | NoMo SoHo + Chola in mag.

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In AM, Food, Mar 2024, Travel Tags NoMo SoHo, SoHo, Chola, Food, Travel, NoMo Kitchen, Jeff Harvey, General Manager, New York City, Staycation, Travekm, The Art of the Snack, Shiva Natarajan, Min Bhujel, Martha Stewart, Roku, The New York Times, Sahib, Malai Marke, MICHELIN, Martha Cooks, Indian Cuisine, Cuisine, Indian
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THE ART OF THE SNACK | MISHIK

April 7, 2024

In month's The Art of the Snack we make our way to Hudson Square in Lower Manhattan where the West Village, SoHo, and Tribeca surround it! We find out more about Mishik's Modern Japanese and Edomae-style sushi omakase, their dishes, and what one can expect when enterting this culinary destination! We sat down with David Kim, Owner of Mishik as well as their Executive Chef/Partner Markee Manaloto to find out more.

ATHLEISURE MAG: What is the meaning behind the name, Mishik?

DAVID KIM: Mishik can encompass various meanings in Korean depending on context, but it generally translates as “beautiful food” or “delicacies.” While fine dining may be associated with formality and high cost, it doesn’t have to be. My aim is to provide guests with the opportunity to savor high-quality cuisine at an accessible price point, within a setting that strikes a balance between informal and formal. What we want to provide for our guests is exquisite food prepared with highest quality ingredients and classic techniques that date back to the Edo period in Japan such as aging of fish combined with our omakase counter experience that doesn't involve complete silence or an overly stuffy environment.

AM: Located in Hudson Square, when did this restaurant launch and why did you want to be in this neighborhood?

DK: Our grand opening was in January 2024. Hudson Square, sitting between the busy Soho and Tribeca neighborhoods, is an up-and-coming area with lots of new developments. I want Mishik to be one of Hudson Square’s top go-to restaurants.

AM: Tell us about Studio Rolling as we love how they create interiors for restaurants as we enjoyed their work in Hortus NYC during Food Network's NYC Food Wine Festival. What was the design approach to Mishik and can you walk us through what guests can expect in terms of its ambiance or where they can sit either at the sushi counter, the dining room, or at the 13-seat bar?

DK: The space was a bit tricky to work with as it was a former burger joint, so we started redesigning from the ground up. I wanted to offer our guests a unique sushi counter experience for omakase as well as an exceptional bar featuring great cocktails and unique wines and sakes. The final design that Youngmi from Studio Rolling and I came up with struck a balance between relaxed and trendy, intimate and aesthetically pleasing. We aim to be a great addition to this beautiful neighborhood.

AM: Our readers have heard us share a number of restaurants that utilize omakase, but what is Edomae-style sushi omakase?

EXECUTIVE CHEF MARKEE MANALOTO: Edo was the old name for Tokyo during a time of great change in Japan from the 17th to 19th centuries. Edomae-style sushi was born during this time, and the techniques have been passed down through the generations. It involves butchering fish humanely, the ikejime way, scaling it precisely with a knife to not damage the meat, the sukibiki way, aging or curing the fish and then serving it over rice seasoned with vinegar.

AM: As Executive Chef/Partner Markee Manaloto, can you tell us about where you trained and kitchens you worked in prior to being involved at Mishik as we know that you were an Omakase Chef at both Michelin - starred Sushi Yasuda and Kissaki.

EXECUTIVE CHEF MM: Prior to Mishik I was the chef partner at Gugu Room, a Japanese-Filipino izakaya restaurant in New York City. Before that I was an omakase chef at Michelin-starred Sushi Yasuda and Kissaki Omakase. I started my career in Michigan, working under chefs who defined the traditional sushi scene in the Midwest. My last mentor there before moving to New York was Chef Lloyd Roberts, who went on to open Nobu 57 and was one of Nobu Matsuhisa’s first executives to travel the world.

AM: Why did you want to be involved in Mishik?

EXECUTIVE CHEF MM: David and I both wanted to shakeup the omakase game in New York City by adding a more robust tasting menu and a la carte options. It feels like there are hundreds of omakase bars in the city that just do counter service, but having a kitchen to also produce plated dishes, flavorful sauces and detailed garnishes is where we really get to showcase our creativity. Joining Mishik has also allowed me to introduce dry-aged fish to customers, an under-used technique that really brings out the flavor and texture of fish. Being able to offer the purist form of sushi alongside progressive dishes and techniques is like having the best of both worlds.

AM: Guests who come to Mishik have the option for Edomae-style sushi omakase, chef's tasting, and a la carte options. Why was this approach that you wanted to make available in terms of the menu?

EXECUTIVE CHEF MM: We visualized Mishik as modern, all-around Japanese dining experience, which includes an omakase counter but also features a dining room with a la carte and tasting menu options. This gives me an opportunity to rotate the menu with new dishes and highlight seasonal ingredients. Plus, blending traditional Japanese ingredients with modern techniques is really exciting and offers something new to customers.

AM: Tell us about your 2 omakase options and walk us through this particular portion of the menu.

EXECUTIVE CHEF MM: We have two omakase options, 12 or 16 pieces of nigiri with a traditional handroll, soup and dessert to finish. These two options are only available at the omakase counter. It gives me an opportunity to explain to guests how we dry-age all the fish in-house to enhance the texture and flavor of each bite. This process of meticulously cleaning and then hang-drying the fish in-house really makes a difference in the final product.

AM: Tell us about the Chef's Tasting Menu which is a 7-course meal.

EXECUTIVE CHEF MM: The seven-course tasting menu highlights the best of Japanese cuisine and goes beyond sushi. It starts with Scallop Sashimi with Asian pear, crispy shitake mushrooms and truffle ponzu, followed by a Donburi rice bowl with tuna tartar and jidori egg yolk, then Yakizakana fish of the day with broccolini, yuzu hollandaise and shishito kosho (we use dry-aged fish in this dish as well); six pieces of Nigiri Sushi highlighting seasonal fish and seafood from Japan such as goldeneye snapper (kinmedai), black throat sea perch (nodoguro), rockfish (kinki), tuna, and uni. Then Yakiniku 6-hour koji-marinated steak with black truffle emulsion and choux farci; Dashi white miso and fish-bone based broth, and dessert that includes the prized Japanese crown melon. The tasting menu is the best way to experience Mishik. The fish changes based on season and what’s fresh from the market, which is another reason why I recommend the tasting menu, since it means guests get to try something different every time.

AM: For the a la carte menu, what are 3 dishes that you suggest that we should have our eye on when we come in to dine?

EXECUTIVE CHEF MM: The a la carte menu offers modern Japanese dining experience: dry-aged fish like Nodoguro (black throat sea perch) with tomato dashi cream and braised king trumpet mushrooms; King Crab Legs with ginger aioli; A5 Wagyu beef; and a stunning Kegani Donabe for Two, an elegant rice pot with Hokkaido hairy crab, uni, ikura, scallops, lotus root, maitake mushrooms, and edamame that can be shared by the table.

AM: For those who are interested in a salad or a rice bowl, what are 3 that we should have our eye on for our next visit?

EXECUTIVE CHEF MM: The rice bowls really allow us to explore different techniques and culinary influences. The Uni Bibimbap with nori puree and the A5 Wagyu Kimchi Fried Rice are exciting marriage of Japanese and Korean cuisine. If you want to go all out with a rice bowl, then try the Kegani Donabe for Two, a showstopping rice pot loaded with seafood, mushrooms and more delicious flavors that makes for a great date night dinner.

AM: What are 3 pieces of sushi that you suggest?

EXECUTIVE CHEF MM: Our nigiri sushi changes seasonally but if you see goldeneye snapper (kinmedai), black throat sea perch (nodoguro) or rockfish (kinki) on the menu, they are fantastic and not as common as tuna or uni (though they are delicious too). We also offer a selection of temaki (hand rolls) and makimono (sushi rolls).

AM: For sides, what are 3 that would be great to enjoy with our meal?

EXECUTIVE CHEF MM: Ankimo (monkfish liver) is considered a delicacy — it’s like the foie gras of the sea. We serve it fried in tempura batter, and it makes an excellent accompaniment to anyone’s meal. If guests are looking for something lighter, then I’d suggest the refreshing hiyashi wakame seaweed salad. A la carte sushi and sashimi options also make for great sides if guests just want an extra bite or two at the end of their meal.

AM: We love a great beverage program, we'd love to know what are 3 signature cocktails that we should have in mind when dining with friends and family?

DK: I feel like the cocktail scene has dramatically changed in the past few years, where in the past drinks were usually simple with just three elements: your spirit, a balancing agent, and a modifier. Nowadays, there is so much more technique and creation involved. The classics will always remain, but we have a great cocktail program that we created with some very talented people. I would personally recommend the Genmai Espresso Martini, Bergamot Tea, Kuri Tai, and the Shiso. I know you said three, but we have so many good cocktails!

AM: What are 3 sake's that we should consider?

DK: This is a tricky question. Everyone's palate is different, and just like someone might prefer a pinot noir over a cabernet, sake is the same. My personal favorites at the moment are Dewazakura Yukimanman, which is a sake that has been aged for five years; Hakkaisan Yukimuro Snow, aged three years; and I usually don't gear towards fruit flavored sake but we have a beautiful Yuzu Sake by Masumi. 

AM: We love a great beverage program and we know that you consulted with sommelier Doreen Winkler, what are 3 wines that would be great to pair with our meal?

DK: Doreen has been really great for us. She is well versed in different wines, especially skin contact wines.  We offer a variety of wines but right now my personal favorites would be the Grape Republic "Anfora," a fantastic red wine from Yamagata in Japan, as well as Karine Lauverjat Pouilly Fume and Patrick Piuze "Terroir" Chablis.

AM: For those who enjoy a great beer, what are 3 that you suggest?

DK: Orion pairs really well with any Japanese cuisine.  We also have a Kyoto Matcha IPA, and for the ale lovers I'd recommend Lucky Cat White Ale. Both are from Kizakura Brewery.

AM: Are there any upcoming events that we should know about that Mishik will be involved in?

DK: We will be participating in the upcoming Joy of Sake event in NYC on Aprill 11!

IG @mishiknyc

PHOTO CREDIT | Michael Tulipan

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