9LIST STORI3S | NGHTMRE
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In the beauty industry, Bobbi Brown reigns as a woman that took her passion as a makeup artist to building a celebrity brand of cosmetics that would eventually be acquired by Estée Lauder. At the time, her appearances on TV shows illustrating her work as well as being a fixture in the backstages of NYFW paved the way for Celebrity Makeup Artists and other talents in the beauty industry. We took a moment with Bobbi to talk about her career, the moves she made in the industry and how she continues to be a trailblazer.
ATHLEISURE MAG: What was the moment when you realized that you wanted to work in the beauty industry?
BOBBI BROWN: I had just left my second college, and was feeling very confused because I didn’t really like school and I wasn’t happy where I had been. I was speaking with my mother and she said to me, “If it was your birthday and you could do anything in the world, what would you do?” and I told her “I’d go to Marshall Field’s and I’d play with makeup.” So my mom said to me “Then go to school to be a makeup artist.” I found Emerson College and they allowed me to create my own major, which was theatrical makeup, and I fell in love.
AM: You started as a makeup artist, what projects did you work on during that time prior to creating Bobbi Brown Cosmetics?
BB: After graduating college, I moved to NYC and went through the yellow pages calling every photographer, makeup artist, and hair stylist I could find, offering my assistance for free. I would travel wherever I was needed offering my services and learning as much as I could. Some of my favorite projects that I did during that time were my first Vogue cover shoot with Naomi Campbell (it was Naomi’s first Vogue cover as well,) working with designers like Michael Kors, Ralph Lauren, and Tommy Hilfiger, and doing makeup for Mick Jagger and The Rolling Stones.
AM: What inspired you to create Bobbi Brown Cosmetics?
BB: After being on all of these sets, I found I could not do the makeup that was in style correctly. I didn’t want to cover and hide women’s features and there was no skin tone correct makeup available at the time. I would mix together what colors I could to try to create a formula that accentuated rather than disguised how the women looked. It was at that time that I met a chemist in an elevator and was telling her what I wanted to do, and she said, “I’ll make the colors for you.” That relationship started the creation of my original 10 lipstick shades.
AM: You were known for a natural aesthetic with an array of amazing pink shades of lipsticks, why was that look important to you and the brand?
BB: They weren’t pink shades as much as they were pink, brown, orange, red – those colors that naturally exist within a woman’s lip. All of them natural looking because I believe that makeup should make a woman look and feel her best. That was my intention when I created Bobbi Brown Cosmetics and still is today.
AM: How did you incorporate being a Beauty Expert on the Today Show as another portion of your brand as a MUA and a founder of a cosmetic line?
BB: At a public appearance I was at, I took a question from a woman in the audience. She later told me that she was the grandmother of Jeff Zucker, the Executive Producer of The Today Show at the time. It had been my dream to be on The Today Show, and when she introduced me to Jeff, he and I created monthly segments that allowed me to teach women the correct products to use and the right way to apply them, allowing each woman to essentially become her own makeup artist. It was an amazing time in my life and I truly believe it catapulted the business of the brand to where it is now.
AM: Estée Lauder acquired Bobbi Brown Cosmetics and you stayed on with the brand, what was the transition like for you and as many of our readers own their own brands, can you share the process you went through in terms of coming to the decision that this was right for your brand and yourself?
BB: In 1995, I met with Leonard Lauder and he quickly became one of the greatest mentors in my life. He promised me that the integrity of the brand and its purpose would never be lost with me at the helm. I remained in complete creative control, while being lucky enough to benefit from the resources that the Estée Lauder companies provided. I stayed on as Chief Creative Officer until 2016, where I made the tough decision to leave the company to start another.
AM: Being a multifaceted person, we have enjoyed seeing you wear a number of hats such as being the Editor in Chief of Yahoo Beauty from 2014-2016, how have you been able to maintain your hat in various spaces while continuing to expand your platform in the beauty industry?
BB: I have an insatiable curiosity and love to learn and discover new things. Ultimately, I am a creative at heart and love to develop content across a multitude of platforms in order to share what I know. I make it a priority to hire really great people who can help me translate my vision across these platforms to the best of my ability.
AM: We loved when you partnered with Safilo to release a line of eyewear, what initiated this venture and do you foresee doing something like this again?
BB: I am a glasses person. I wear prescription glasses and sunglasses on a daily basis. I find that eyewear is an extension of makeup to a degree, in that the style and color you choose says a lot about yourself and what look you are trying to convey. It was a natural fit for me. I’d love to explore doing this again in the future.
AM: You have written 9 books on makeup and beauty, what was it like writing your first book and what is the process like in general from concept to release?
BB: My first book was very cathartic for me. It was taking all of the knowledge that I had learned and perfected over the years, and articulating that as best I could for everyone to read. Even though I have written 9 books, I still don’t know how to type. My process varies but consists of lots of handwritten notes in the back of cars, and swatches of color done on paper. I work very closely with my writers and my publisher from start to finish. I have been very fortunate to work with the best of the best in that regard.
AM: Will there be another book that we can expect to see from you?
BB: Never say never. I don’t know if it will be a traditional book or one that has a digital component to it. We’ll see what’s in store.
AM: We’re fans of JustBobbi.com as well as EVOLUTION_18 as we love your approach to beauty from the inside out. Why did you launch the site as well as the beauty brand and what can we expect to see from them as we continue throughout the remainder of the year?
BB: My lifelong philosophy has always been that beauty, and confidence, starts with what you put inside your body. The launch of my lifestyle inspired wellness line, EVOLUTION_18, is a natural extension of beauty from inside out. After spending 25+ years talking to women about their health and wellness challenges, I became a certified health coach and learned what it is women need to know in order to look and feel our best. EVOLUTION_18 is a collection of highly effective simple formulas that target a wide range of beauty concerns. They are made with clean, high quality ingredients that give you everything you need for a beauty boost from within. Justbobbi.com is a modern lifestyle platform for all things wellness, beauty, and everything in between. It’s a platform that aims to educate and inspire how you live your life through never-ending exploration and storytelling.
AM: With so many successes in the beauty world, you launched another amazing venture in a new vertical – hospitality. Tell us about The George and why did you want to do this?
BB: The day I left Bobbi Brown Cosmetics, my husband called me and asked if I wanted to be a part of a new project – The George Hotel. It is a historic property that he completely restored into a 32-room boutique hotel. I became the Creative Director of the hotel, and it was my mission to create a design-minded boutique hotel in the heart of Montclair where we live, that offered guests a unique and one of a kind experience.
AM: In addition to Athleisure Mag, we have a podcast network – Athleisure Studio which has 4 shows and we know that you have a podcast show, Long Story Short with Bobbi Brown – what can we expect on this show and who have been 3 of your favorite guests on this show?
BB: Long Story Short allows me to talk to some of the most accomplished people in the world who are true masters of their craft. The podcast offers a glimpse into their journeys, discussing both their highs and lows in order to get the essential takeaways of a life well lived. Everyone has a story and I love finding out what that story is. Three of my favorites are Mickey Drexler, my mentor, Elvis Duran, one of my best friends, and Jen Atkin.
AM: What philanthropic efforts are you involved in that you would like for us to know about?
BB: I am on the board of Reaching Out Montclair, in my hometown, which provides essential needs for underserved children and their families in our community.
AM: What are 3 beauty musts that you think that we should have with us when we travel?
BB: First, a good moisturizer – preferably one that contains an SPF. Protecting your skin from the sun is of the utmost importance. And when you’re traveling, especially on a plane, your skin can dry out easily, so make sure to keep skin moisturized in order to keep it looking hydrated and plump. Second, a probiotic beauty starts in your gut. Taking a probiotic daily will help with your digestion which in turn helps keep your microbiome balanced and your skin clear. Third, a cream blush – I like to travel with multipurpose products. A cream blush is perfect to give you a nice healthy glow and can be used on your lips as well.
AM: When it comes to your legacy, what do you want people to take away in terms of your impact on the beauty industry and just embracing life’s opportunities?
BB: Be a sponge, be kind, and work hard.
IG @JustBobbi
Read the August issue of Athleisure Mag and see Leaving Her Mark with Bobbi Brown in mag.
CHILLHOUSE launched in 2017 and was founded by Cyndi Ramirez-Fulton, an entrepreneur with a creative vision who has made a name for herself in the lifestyle, fashion and hospitality industries through her award-winning website Taste The Style, and a partner of The Garret in New York City. Along with her husband and co-founder, Cyndi sought out to change the relaxation landscape with her latest project, CHILLHOUSE.
Prior to starting her own businesses, Cyndi worked as the Brand Director of Third Wave Fashion, a fashion tech consultancy. CHILLHOUSE is a wellness brand as a destination for modern self-care that opened on Manhattan's Lower East Side. It debuted a first of its kind nail salon and massage boutique with a full service café and bar. As a downtown escape for city dwellers seeking a modern path to total relaxation with style, character and ease. It offers guests luxury beauty services at affordable prices in an aspirational setting that you can enjoy at your own will.
Guests can enjoy colorful lattes and baked goods while they're meeting with friends, working on projects or waiting to get a service done. Services cover a number of options for body, nails and face with various choices within each group.
In 2018, SHOP CHILL, an onine retail arm launched with offerings that included accessories and a curated selection of the best products on the market. These items are tested by Cyndi and the team so that they can stand by what they sell. Their membership program CLUB CHILL was created as a way for customers to experience and connect with CHILLHOUSE in a different way. Members receive discounts on services, access to special events and perks from brand partners. CHILLHOUSE has partnered with H&M, Nike, Club Monaco and more.
PHOTOS COURTESY | CHILLHOUSE
CHILLHOUSE
149 Essex St
NY, NY 10002
IG @chillhouse
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On today's episode of Bungalow SK, we're focused on women's health which includes talking about collagen and natural elements that boost our bodies. In the news, we have heard about the importance of it for our bodies and why it's a vital resource. I sit down with the Co-Founders of SkinTE to talk with Dr. Amy Bader, Elizabeth Zieg and Bassima Mroue abut how they came together to create this ingestible beauty lifestyle brand with investors that include Spanx founder Sara Blakely, the iconic Diane Von Furstenberg, Supermodel Karlie Kloss and Bare Minerals' founder Leslie Blodgett and Brian Lee (of LegalZoom.com, ShoeDazzle.com, Honest Co and Art of Sport) . We talk about how they solved a problem by incorporating grass fed collagen with tea and essential ingredients, the importance of a positive corporate culture that believes in proper work balance and where we can expect to see them next.
PHOTO COURTESY | Guilherme Petri
As women, we are pretty familiar with how to handle skincare 911’s, blunders with our hair, shaving mishaps, and how to correct makeup mistakes. When it comes to brows, this particular part of our face is a bit more mysterious. Many of us grew up simply waxing, tweezing or leaving them au naturel until brows became the hottest “accessory” on our face with a multitude of options of ways to groom and improve upon them. What happens when you face a brow emergency? There is no better expert to turn to for advice than Umbreen Sheikh, a licensed cosmetologist, and founder + CEO of Wink Brow Bar and Salon in New York City.
Problem: Overplucking your brows-
Almost every woman has gotten too close to that magnifying mirror and been overzealous with a tweezer. Umbreen says, “Don’t fear. You can fake it till you make it with subtle makeup tricks that will help to create the illusion of a fuller, thicker brow. This can be done with Wink’s own Brow Perfecting Quad.” https://winkbrowbar.com/collections/our-products/products/wink-brow-perfecting-quad Brush the two powders through, then brush through again to blend for a natural-looking finish. Finally, use a highlighter to camouflage any random hairs. Umbreen says that “Drawing a straight line under your brow will help minimize the appearance of strays. This will also lighten and brighten the entire eye area, drawing more attention to the eyes.”
Problem: Creating a too wide eyebrow gap
The obvious solution to this is to fill in the points closest to the bridge of the nose to lessen the gap. This can be done via microblading. Microblading is a semi-permanent tattoo technique used to create the illusion of fuller brows. With this method, Umbreen can create almost any look and shape. First, Wink technicians consult with clients about the best brow shape for their face and choose a color that matches the natural hair color and skin undertone. The brow area is then cleaned and numbed for the treatment. Instead of using a tattoo machine, a handheld tool manually draws hair strokes. This all can take up to 30 to 40 minutes. Results can last anywhere from one to three years, depending on your skin type (the ink fades faster on oily skin), products, and lifestyle. It’s also an ideal procedure for women who have lost brow volume due to age, menopause or chemotherapy.
Problem: Unruly Brows-
Bold, feathery brows are in, but messy is an adjective you never want to be associated with your arches. “If your brow hairs are “wonky,” you need a game plan for controlling them,” says Umbreen. If your arches do need a trim, Umbreen suggests brushing your brows up towards the top of your ear with a spooly brush and cutting only the tips off the long hairs pointing the scissors down, (not parallel to the brow). "This gives trimmed brows a natural look, because none of the hairs are exactly the same length," As a finishing touch, mist a spoolie with hairspray and brush it through brows—directing the hairs up for a lifted look.
Problem: Matching your brow color to your hair exactly
In the case of the hair on your head and your eyebrows, you “don’t want to match the curtains to the carpet,” says Umbreen. Very often, a hair colorist will suggest that you tint your brows much lighter if you are going blonder. Umbreen disagrees with this. “Darker brows will act as a frame for the face and enhance your eye color. Generally, it will give you the appearance of a lot more brow.” If you have gone too light or too dark, “eyebrow tinting is the process of applying semi-permanent dye to enhance, shape, and define your brows. This can be done at salons such as Wink. “It gives the appearance of thicker, more youthful-looking brows,” says Umbreen. An average session takes only about 15 minutes and the color should last anywhere from 3-6 weeks. It’s instant gratification as your new eyebrow color will be immediately apparent.
Mistake: Plucking brows too short
Eyebrows that are too short can make your eyes and nose look too big. If you have plucked them or waxed them so that you look like you have half an eyebrow, of course, you can spend the time to pencil them in every day but that if time-consuming and takes skill to make both brows symmetrical. Or… you could get eyebrow extensions. Similar to eyelash extensions, eyebrow extensions are done with tiny fibers of mink or synthetic hairs. The brow extension fibers are then attached to either bare skin or to existing hairs, giving them a fuller, stronger look. The service is from 25 mins to 90 mins depending on thickness or amount of work required.
The Problem- You’re so squeamish for waxing or you bruise easily
You would be hard-pressed to find a woman who enjoys the tear of a strip of wax against her eyelid to remove tiny eyebrow hairs, but yet we put up with it in the name of beauty. For anyone who has ever deviated from their regular waxer on a vacation or business trip, you have most likely ended up being cut or bruised by overly aggressive waxing. There is a great alternative for everyone called organic threading. As Umbreen explains, “With its origins in Asia centuries ago, eyebrow threading is a simple process that is often considered to be one of the most painless (and least invasive) options for shaping brows. The threading process is simple and typically involves a single piece of cotton thread, After wiping the eyebrow area clean with alcohol, the thread is "twisted and pulled along areas of unwanted hair acting like a mini-lasso, lifting the hair directly from the root without the use of any chemicals or unnecessary tugging on delicate skin. As opposed to waxing, tweezing, or lasers, threading is considered one of the safest and most precise methods of hair removal, especially in the delicate areas surrounding the eye. "Threading allows our specialists to have greater control over which hairs are removed.” The technique is also "100 percent natural," which means there are no artificial waxes, chemicals, or invasive techniques used during the procedure.
The Problem- You've made your brows too big and bold.
Don’t assume you have to wash it all off. Instead, take a cotton swab dipped in makeup remover and carefully trace your brow’s natural outline. Remember, brow product should be applied within the brow’s hairline, not beyond it. Cotton swabs will remove any unwanted shading that has ventured too far outside the lines.
Trying at home to make both eyebrows symmetrical
This is one of the most common mishaps that Umbreen hears from clients who tried to ‘go it alone at home.’ Umbreen offers, “When you obsess over making your eyebrows look exactly the same, you can wind up over-plucking them. Too-thin brows are much worse than ones that are just a tad different. Your eyebrows are supposed to be sisters, not twins.
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There are 47 million Instagram hashtags for #DIY. It’s a hot topic for everything from home décor to crafting, and of course beauty. DIY skincare is hyped as a safe and affordable alternative to store-bought products. Just because it can grow in your backyard or exists in your medicine cabinet, doesn't mean it's good for your skin. Looking into cleaner cosmetics isn't a bad idea, but some natural ingredients YouTube and Instagram sensations swear by can cause adverse side effects. Dr. Gretchen Frieling, a board-certified Boston Area Dermatopathologist, warns us about the most touted DIY skincare ingredients and why you should never put them on your face.
Take these products off of your skincare DIY List
Toothpaste for acne spots
Treating pimples with toothpaste is backed by many who have extolled its drying properties. While it can dry the pimple out, Dr. Frieling explains, "it can also cause irritation, redness, and even peeling." The trend most likely started because toothpaste contains ingredients such as baking soda or hydrogen peroxide, which are drying. "This is no better than any over-the-counter products," she adds "and may make the problem worse." The chemical and ingredients in toothpaste that fight bacteria are made for your teeth, not your skin!
Citric acid (lemons and limes) as toners
You may have seen DIY exfoliators or toners featuring lemon juice as an ingredient -- but you should really avoid putting this on your face. Dr. Frieling shares, "Because of its high acidity, lemon juice can disrupt the natural pH levels of your skin leading to irritation and hyperpigmentation." While this reaction is not the same for everyone else, it's best to stay away from lemon juice, as you the acidity varies for every lemon.
"A small splash of lemon juice on an acne scar or blemish is said to reduce hyperpigmentation and lighten the skin. But, you may leave your skin with a bigger problem if you go in the sun." Dr. Frieling explains that citric acid in its natural form contains a phototoxic compound called psoralens, which can cause a severe chemical burn when exposed to UV rays. Thankfully, this compound can be extracted from lemon juice through processing, so just because a product contains citric acid doesn't mean you should always avoid it.
Rubbing alcohol to dry acne
At the crux of germ-fighting products, rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol cleans wounds, disinfects, and sanitizes the skin. You think it would be great for your face too, right? Think again! "Repeated exposure to isopropyl alcohol on the face strips the skin of its natural protective barrier, oils, and irritates the skin." shares Dr. Frieling. While rubbing alcohol works great to remove bacteria, it's not always what is causing acne breakouts. "Good acne products treat all aspects of the problem," she adds, not just the surface of the skin. "They should target the inner layers of the skin and protecting it's natural pH levels in ways rubbing alcohol can't," says Dr. Frieling.
Baking soda as an exfoliator
Baking soda is an alkaline, meaning it attempts to neutralize acidity. When it comes to healthy skin, Dr. Frieling says it should have a pH level of around 5.5. "Baking soda (a pH of 9) can alter the outer layer of skin and actually cause it to break down," she adds, "leaving the skin vulnerable to bacteria and worsening the condition." Baking soda, much like salt or sugar, is also used as a physical exfoliator. Although it can be useful in removing dead skin cells, Dr. Frieling does not recommend using baking soda on the face as over-exfoliation causes irritation.
Raw eggs in your face mask
Anyone tell you not to eat raw eggs? Claims of salmonella and stomach issues would persuade you against it, but what about your face? While egg whites are definitely the cheaper alternative to most serums, Dr. Frieling says it should not go anywhere near your face. "If you have a scratch or unhealed blemish on your face, putting raw egg whites on your face can cause infection, not to mention possible allergic reactions," she explains. "Egg white masks are said to tighten pores and brighten the skin, but any pore-tightening properties just get wiped away when washed off."
Coconut oil as a moisturizer or cleanser
It's excellent for food, hair, and even the legs, but coconut oil needs to stay far away from your face. Some claim it does wonders for their skin, making it brighter and smoother, others not so much. "Coconut oil is extremely comedogenic," says Dr. Frieling "it can't be absorbed into the skin, clogging your pores, and causing more breakouts." But what about as a cleanser? "Even after washing off, coconut oil leaves a thin layer of film left behind which can suffocate your pores." adds Dr. Frieling. As an alternative, other plant-based oils like Argan oil are anti-comedogenic are great for removing makeup.
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